I have a HPV Gekko recumbent trike and had Gocarlite install a rear hub motor with Kt Lcd3 display around 3-4 years ago. It randomly turned off the display (so no power) and pushing the middle button turned it right back on. this would happen while cruising flats not under stress. Eventually we decided to replace the controller. It was still happening but less often. Yesterday, it shut off but the middle button did NOT bring it back on. I rode home manually and unlocked the battery and turned it on and then off - that worked and brought the display back to life. The system was at 37v which is not close to out of juice so that was not the issue. The other thing i have noticed is that when I first turn it on for the day or when I restore it to life with the middle button push, the display shows 21.7mph until I pedal. I've never ever gone more than 17 mph so it's not remembering anything. The trike is my car, my sole transportation, so it needs to be reliable as I am disabled and can't walk very far. Any thoughts on why it went dead and needed a battery reset? If it matters the throttle is newish as the old one crapped out because it got wet. What can i do to make sure it won't die on me again? I'm mechanically inclined but not electrical so may have to hire someone so need to know what to tell them......
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Kt Lcd3 rear hub motor shuts down
- Thread starter linberl
- Start date
Apartunis
Regular
In your situation, I would first scrutinize all the plugs and lengths of wires between the battery, controller, and display. If everything checks out and shows no corrosion, dirt, or physical damage, suspicion falls on the display. You can make a jumper plug that connects the red and blue wires from the controller plug for the display, and that should turn the controller on and allow running the bike without a display. If you don't get any symptoms riding that way, it further implicates the display.
When I get a KT display that seems to be acting up after checking for external faults, I swap it out. So far that has always worked to correct the problem. I use enough KT LCD4 displays that I usually have an extra around.
Yes it fully charges. I checked the wiring and stuff today and I did notice the magnet on the spokes was all cruddy and not aligned perfectly (loosened up). Could that have done it? I just cleaned it and realigned it and tightened it but haven't gone riding yet. The display turned on fine this morning, although it still has the 21mph showing.
docw009
Minor legend
The LCD3 speed comes from a data packet from the controller. If it powers up with a speed showing on the display, I think that means a display problem. Should be part of the power up process to initialize all the data registers in the display.
Anyway, If it were my bike and my shop, I'd put on a spare LCD3 to see if the problem went away. If not, then I replace the controller.
I own three bikes with KT LCD3 controllers, which is why I keep a spare display/controller around. The problem I have seen is when one of the data lines has a bad connection. Then I don;t see any speed info coming from the controller. The LCD3 seems pretty reliable too. Never seen one break except when the bike fell on it, or I put weight on the screen when changing a flat tire.
If the bike cuts out and restarts, that could be a bad display connection. If your conversion kit used the older style flat plus, they have jumper plugs that allow you to run the bike w/o a display. It allows throttle and a single PAS level. This can be done with the better units that have round waterproof Julet connectors. You stick a wire in between two pin sockets. This would be done for diagnostics. If bike still cuts out, you know it's in the controller.
Anyway, If it were my bike and my shop, I'd put on a spare LCD3 to see if the problem went away. If not, then I replace the controller.
I own three bikes with KT LCD3 controllers, which is why I keep a spare display/controller around. The problem I have seen is when one of the data lines has a bad connection. Then I don;t see any speed info coming from the controller. The LCD3 seems pretty reliable too. Never seen one break except when the bike fell on it, or I put weight on the screen when changing a flat tire.
If the bike cuts out and restarts, that could be a bad display connection. If your conversion kit used the older style flat plus, they have jumper plugs that allow you to run the bike w/o a display. It allows throttle and a single PAS level. This can be done with the better units that have round waterproof Julet connectors. You stick a wire in between two pin sockets. This would be done for diagnostics. If bike still cuts out, you know it's in the controller.
I looked over all the wires and they seem okay. but one wire did seem kinda crimped in the controller bag so I pulled everything out, made a nice easy loop and replaced it all. No issues today, display on. Will see if it happens again. Fingers crossed.
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