slaphappygamer
Regular
I have an old EVG 24v ebike that was given to me by my friend "Carlos". Carlos go the bike from his neighbor. The bike has spent about 20 years in the rafters of their garage. He collected the bike and was going to take it to the dump. He called me to ask if I wanted a new project. I happily took on the case, how could I say "no"?
This was the bike...
I acquired some 12v 12ah SLA's and wired them in series to test the bike. It turned on, but no motor joy. I found one of the brake sensors was VERY dirty and gummed up. This sensor was stuck and always active. The bike was in need of a clean any way so after cleaning and adjusting the misaligned brake sensor magnets, the bike operated just fine. I rode it to work a few days later. Carlos lives near me so we traded bikes part way back to town. He liked the bike and was stoked I was able to get it working again. He also liked it was throttle only and was easy to pedal. It's geared real low and is hard to contribute over 10 MPH.
I wanted to clear out some crap in my garage so I tried to sell this bike. No one wanted it. I tried to give it away. No one wanted it.
Grin almost took it, for a bike show, but didn't respond after I told them I didn't have the battery. Maybe it was too expensive to transport?
Anyhow, fast forward to current times and Carlos is giving away his old ebike stash. Of course he asked me if I could "do anything with this stuff?". YES! Again, I freed him of his burden. The box included some KT controllers, displays, sensors, and wiring. As well as 2 1000w direct drive motors in 26" wheels.
My ebike (PEV) stash has grown through out the last few years. A few years ago, I bought a dual motor controller kit for a scooter that I ended up scrapping months later. The controller kit included BrainPower controllers and an S866 display. Here is a wiring diagram that the kit came with.
I found out that this controller set doesn't handle current properly. I have both motors set to 12A. Together that's 24A max. Today, I lost power going up hill. No, it wasn't due to voltage sag since after resting the bike ZERO volts were being displayed on my voltage readout at the key ignition. Got the bike home and confirmed no voltage at the discharge port. I measured resistance and there wasn't any. Ohm meter said "O.L". I know I'm looking for an open. I checked another thread where a user opened a similar (Rhino IR-21700) case to mine (Rhino IR-5). I was able to find a fuse under the top housing near the charge port. There was a 30A fuse. I'm surprised that this fuse blew with total Amp Limit at 24. These controllers must be pulling more than the set max amp limit. I've replaced the fuse with another 30A fuse and will keep this on my normal ebike.
The first point to address was the fork. This fork has steel inners and aluminum lowers. I fitted a V6 Grin torque arm with the C washer. I did have to file a bit of the dropouts to have the axle seat well enough to secure.
I tried to fit the V6 torque arm in the rear , but the stays are not round and there is no secure way to install this style of torque arm. There are, however, eyelets near the dropouts. So, I used V5 torque arm and it installed just fine. I did want V7 torque arms, but those are very expensive and after reading the install notes for V5 and V6 torque arms, I feel confident that these are good options. Especially on the rear axle. I still have work to do to true the wheel and the bearings in the cassette are loud. As well as re-aligning the V brakes. I feel I can address these issues soon when I learn how to fix them. I just had to be sure I wanted to continue the efforts with the rest of the build.
I scratched the fork quite a bit. Kind of fits the bike though.
Note the flat chain and seat stays.
The controllers fit just fine where the old controller was. I did have to stack them and tuck all the wiring back.
For the battery, well, I'm using my ebike battery. Controllers are set for 10A max for each motor. I removed the battery "dock" from my bike and was also able to fit the battery inside the frame. I was even able to fully close the plastic frame shell. I used some packaging material, as well as, some rubber mat that I cut to various sizes. The battery fits great and does not rattle around. I orientated the battery upside down because I didn't want constant pressure on the "dock" as it would rest against a metal bracket that resides there. I was also able to close the cute little door.
I wired the key switch on the Purple and Red of the main controller. Yellow went to Purple and Blue connects to Red.
The red on/off switch (White and Brown wires) is wired to the "dual drive selection" input. When "I", both motors are engaged. When "O", only the rear motor is enabled.
The controller kit does not have PAS input. So motor power is throttle only. The throttle is wired as (Throttle to Controller) Red to Red, Black to Black, and Green to White.
I have 3 speed selections. 1 is about 12mph, 2 is about 20mph, and 3 is 28mph. The display defaults to 1. I tested this on my driveway. It's pretty short, but very steep. 12% grade, I believe. With a 12mph speed limit, the bike pulls steadily up the hill with no issues. I can't sit in the saddle yet (recent surgery), but I rode standing over the left pedal.
Due to the way the brake cable interfaces with the adjustment screw. I could not, for the life of me, get the brake cable out of the adjustment screw and that screw is much larger than the new brake levers I have, so I had to reuse the original levers. I'll have to come up with better brake input. As I squeeze the lever, the motor stops. This is fine, but when I reach full lever depression, the sensor releases. So I have to be careful to NOT squeeze the lever all the way down. Tricky and I don't like it. This will be fixed.
So here is the bike now.
A couple of notes, The rear cassette is the same as the old one, so shifting is great! I used the same tubes and tires from the original wheels.
I have a few things to sort before I can fully ride the bike. Heal (I'm 85%), true rear wheel, adjust both V brakes, lights, and maybe new innertubes. After that, I'll add thread locker to the axle nuts.
This was the bike...
I acquired some 12v 12ah SLA's and wired them in series to test the bike. It turned on, but no motor joy. I found one of the brake sensors was VERY dirty and gummed up. This sensor was stuck and always active. The bike was in need of a clean any way so after cleaning and adjusting the misaligned brake sensor magnets, the bike operated just fine. I rode it to work a few days later. Carlos lives near me so we traded bikes part way back to town. He liked the bike and was stoked I was able to get it working again. He also liked it was throttle only and was easy to pedal. It's geared real low and is hard to contribute over 10 MPH.
I wanted to clear out some crap in my garage so I tried to sell this bike. No one wanted it. I tried to give it away. No one wanted it.
Grin almost took it, for a bike show, but didn't respond after I told them I didn't have the battery. Maybe it was too expensive to transport?Anyhow, fast forward to current times and Carlos is giving away his old ebike stash. Of course he asked me if I could "do anything with this stuff?". YES! Again, I freed him of his burden. The box included some KT controllers, displays, sensors, and wiring. As well as 2 1000w direct drive motors in 26" wheels.
My ebike (PEV) stash has grown through out the last few years. A few years ago, I bought a dual motor controller kit for a scooter that I ended up scrapping months later. The controller kit included BrainPower controllers and an S866 display. Here is a wiring diagram that the kit came with.
I found out that this controller set doesn't handle current properly. I have both motors set to 12A. Together that's 24A max. Today, I lost power going up hill. No, it wasn't due to voltage sag since after resting the bike ZERO volts were being displayed on my voltage readout at the key ignition. Got the bike home and confirmed no voltage at the discharge port. I measured resistance and there wasn't any. Ohm meter said "O.L". I know I'm looking for an open. I checked another thread where a user opened a similar (Rhino IR-21700) case to mine (Rhino IR-5). I was able to find a fuse under the top housing near the charge port. There was a 30A fuse. I'm surprised that this fuse blew with total Amp Limit at 24. These controllers must be pulling more than the set max amp limit. I've replaced the fuse with another 30A fuse and will keep this on my normal ebike.
The first point to address was the fork. This fork has steel inners and aluminum lowers. I fitted a V6 Grin torque arm with the C washer. I did have to file a bit of the dropouts to have the axle seat well enough to secure.
I tried to fit the V6 torque arm in the rear , but the stays are not round and there is no secure way to install this style of torque arm. There are, however, eyelets near the dropouts. So, I used V5 torque arm and it installed just fine. I did want V7 torque arms, but those are very expensive and after reading the install notes for V5 and V6 torque arms, I feel confident that these are good options. Especially on the rear axle. I still have work to do to true the wheel and the bearings in the cassette are loud. As well as re-aligning the V brakes. I feel I can address these issues soon when I learn how to fix them. I just had to be sure I wanted to continue the efforts with the rest of the build.
I scratched the fork quite a bit. Kind of fits the bike though.
Note the flat chain and seat stays.
The controllers fit just fine where the old controller was. I did have to stack them and tuck all the wiring back.
For the battery, well, I'm using my ebike battery. Controllers are set for 10A max for each motor. I removed the battery "dock" from my bike and was also able to fit the battery inside the frame. I was even able to fully close the plastic frame shell. I used some packaging material, as well as, some rubber mat that I cut to various sizes. The battery fits great and does not rattle around. I orientated the battery upside down because I didn't want constant pressure on the "dock" as it would rest against a metal bracket that resides there. I was also able to close the cute little door.
I wired the key switch on the Purple and Red of the main controller. Yellow went to Purple and Blue connects to Red.
The red on/off switch (White and Brown wires) is wired to the "dual drive selection" input. When "I", both motors are engaged. When "O", only the rear motor is enabled.
The controller kit does not have PAS input. So motor power is throttle only. The throttle is wired as (Throttle to Controller) Red to Red, Black to Black, and Green to White.
I have 3 speed selections. 1 is about 12mph, 2 is about 20mph, and 3 is 28mph. The display defaults to 1. I tested this on my driveway. It's pretty short, but very steep. 12% grade, I believe. With a 12mph speed limit, the bike pulls steadily up the hill with no issues. I can't sit in the saddle yet (recent surgery), but I rode standing over the left pedal.
Due to the way the brake cable interfaces with the adjustment screw. I could not, for the life of me, get the brake cable out of the adjustment screw and that screw is much larger than the new brake levers I have, so I had to reuse the original levers. I'll have to come up with better brake input. As I squeeze the lever, the motor stops. This is fine, but when I reach full lever depression, the sensor releases. So I have to be careful to NOT squeeze the lever all the way down. Tricky and I don't like it. This will be fixed.
So here is the bike now.
A couple of notes, The rear cassette is the same as the old one, so shifting is great! I used the same tubes and tires from the original wheels.
I have a few things to sort before I can fully ride the bike. Heal (I'm 85%), true rear wheel, adjust both V brakes, lights, and maybe new innertubes. After that, I'll add thread locker to the axle nuts.
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