KT-LCD3 settings question

[linberl]

I'm a senior and ride a recumbent trike (HPV). I have a rear hub motor and 36v battery. I want to set it up so that at assist level 1 it gives the barest minimum of
assist. I have a 52t chainring because anything smaller leads to ghostpedaling. I've found 2 settings that helped reduce the immediate boost (P3 and C14). Are there other settings I should change? The way it is now I never go past level 2 and mostly always ride in level 1 assist. I just can't spin faster than 70rpm consistently. Would it help to "trick" the system by setting the tire size from 20" to something else? I would like a more graduated assist in the beginining, but I can't use a torque system, because I have Myasthenia Gravis, and at some point in my ride my muscles will bork and pushing will become nearly impossible.

 

[AGS]

Here is one thing you can try. Set C14 to 1 and see if that helps. But it will give you weak assist at all pas levels.

 

[slaphappygamer]

You can also change your C5 setting. Try 00, 01, or 02. I believe these are the “intensity” of initial take off. Or you can further limit current across all PAS levels with settings 03-10.



You can play with these settings along with the settings mentioned above, to find your specific sweet spot.

 

[linberl]

You can also change your C5 setting. Try 00, 01, or 02. I believe these are the “intensity” of initial take off. Or you can further limit current across all PAS levels with settings 03-10.

View attachment 354521

You can play with these settings along with the settings mentioned above, to find your specific sweet spot.

Ah I was not aware of this one, sounds promising. I am more interested in range over power so this may also help with that. I'll try it. Thanks!

 

[linberl]

Here is one thing you can try. Set C14 to 1 and see if that helps. But it will give you weak assist at all pas levels.


View attachment 354518

Yes, I mentioned I knew about this setting but thanks for confirming.

 

[linberl]

It's still giving me more power than I want in level 1. I have C5 at "00". Should it be at something else? What about setting the 20" wheels to a different size in the software - would that lower the power? The conundrum is I can get exercise pedaling with it off but the added motor/battery weight is a drag literally, but I need the motor there at some distance into my ride as my MG illness depletes my muscles.

 

[docw009]

Depending on the age of your LCD3, I think the first 3 C5 settings 00-03 may be undefined. On my bikes C5 = 03 was the lowest. How many amps is your controller? What are you seeing for watts on the KT display?

Wheel size on;y affects the displayed speed calculation,

I'll go fool around with my 20" folders and see if I can get the watts under 100W at startoff.

 

[linberl]

I had my system installed so only know a little about it. 36v 15ah battery. This is the kit (48 volt electric bike conversion kit system). On an HPV gecko fx20. I'll change it to 03 from 00 and see. Willing to try any settings, thanks.

 

[E-HP]

I had my system installed so only know a little about it. 36v 15ah battery. This is the kit (48 volt electric bike conversion kit system). On an HPV gecko fx20. I'll change it to 03 from 00 and see. Willing to try any settings, thanks.

What if you had the level of assist you need by pressing a button? On my earlier version of my bike, I added a momentary button switch that I could hit with my thumb. It used a trim pot as a voltage divider and output 0-5V, depending on how the pot was adjusted. I had it set to provide a throttle signal that would provide 50W from the controller. I used the button for "coasting" for long distances when I felt like taking a break. I used one of these, since for my application I just did a set and forget, but a pot with a knob could also be used. 1V-4V is the valid range for a throttle, so doesn't work near the two ends of the adjustment range.

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To use it with the KT PAS, I'd set PAS level to 0, and use the button instead of PAS. You can still pedal, but only get the assist from the button. When you need more, you can just click the PAS level up to 1, 2, 3 or whatever.

 

[linberl]

What if you had the level of assist you need by pressing a button? On my earlier version of my bike, I added a momentary button switch that I could hit with my thumb. It used a trim pot as a voltage divider and output 0-5V, depending on how the pot was adjusted. I had it set to provide a throttle signal that would provide 50W from the controller. I used the button for "coasting" for long distances when I felt like taking a break. I used one of these, since for my application I just did a set and forget, but a pot with a knob could also be used. 1V-4V is the valid range for a throttle, so doesn't work near the two ends of the adjustment range.

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To use it with the KT PAS, I'd set PAS level to 0, and use the button instead of PAS. You can still pedal, but only get the assist from the button. When you need more, you can just click the PAS level up to 1, 2, 3 or whatever.

Lol, that's above my knowledge level. If I cannot find an answer by adjusting the display settings I can send your answer to my install guy to see if he understands it. Thanks though...you're talking to novice with electric stuff.

 

[E-HP]

Lol, that's above my knowledge level. If I cannot find an answer by adjusting the display settings I can send your answer to my install guy to see if he understands it. Thanks though...you're talking to novice with electric stuff.

There may be a software solution, if you're more computer oriented. Not sure what model your controller is.

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[d8veh]

I'm a senior and ride a recumbent trike (HPV). I have a rear hub motor and 36v battery. I want to set it up so that at assist level 1 it gives the barest minimum of
assist. I have a 52t chainring because anything smaller leads to ghostpedaling. I've found 2 settings that helped reduce the immediate boost (P3 and C14). Are there other settings I should change? The way it is now I never go past level 2 and mostly always ride in level 1 assist. I just can't spin faster than 70rpm consistently. Would it help to "trick" the system by setting the tire size from 20" to something else? I would like a more graduated assist in the beginining, but I can't use a torque system, because I have Myasthenia Gravis, and at some point in my ride my muscles will bork and pushing will become nearly impossible.

If you're getting too much power on the different LCD levels, it's because you have the controller set to speed control instead of current control. P3=1 is the correct setting for current control that gives a different power for each level. P3=0 gives the max power in each level, each with a different maximum speed, which is terrible..

 

[linberl]

This^^. I discovered it by accident just trying things, but this solved the problem. Thanks!

 

[E-HP]

If you're getting too much power on the different LCD levels, it's because you have the controller set to speed control instead of current control. P3=1 is the correct setting for current control that gives a different power for each level. P3=0 gives the max power in each level, each with a different maximum speed, which is terrible..

I was looking for that setting in the 4 or 5 KT manuals I have, because I recall one of them described P3=1 as imitation torque control (effectively power vs speed control), but couldn't find it.
Thought I might have imagined it, but it's described in this one: https://boxbike.dk/img/cms/KT-LCD3 (Advanced).pdf

 

[linberl]

I was looking for that setting in the 4 or 5 KT manuals I have, because I recall one of them described P3=1 as imitation torque control (effectively power vs speed control), but couldn't find it.
Thought I might have imagined it, but it's described in this one: https://boxbike.dk/img/cms/KT-LCD3 (Advanced).pdf

This definitely made a difference in my situation. Zero ghost pedaling. Everyone here rocks, so grateful for the help!