what are you running for battery coolant and how big of a pump? also you have inspired me to buy better grippier tires on my buggy as now im afraid cheap tires will kill me after watching you scoot through that track. what gauge wires are you using? i bought 2/0 gauge for my batteries to controller they are rated at 350 amps which i should never really exceed with a motor as small as mine, im hoping they are large enough to not fry. do you cool your motor with liquid?
large road legal electric go kart build. need help!
- Thread starter falshami
- Start date
Wow, you should change your user name to "Twenty questions" 
I see you spotted my older videos (galderdi). They were before I created the "Full Charge Motorsport" brand. And they were mostly with my old lead acid batteries.
Torque, well that is a difficult one. I have had a look at some of those BLDC motors and they seem to sit somewhere between 20 and 40 NM = 14.75 - 30 Ft Lbs but they don't say at what current. Torque is almost directly proportional to current (in the same motor). But I don't think it is correct to compare one motor to another, particularly diferent technologies.
Having said all that we can certainly consider some figures to understand some ballparks. DC motors a notorious for good torque figures. For my motor I have a graph that shows 10Ft/Lbs at 100amps and 150Ft/Lbs at 600amps.
As a side note, I am glad you prompted me with this question because by rechecking the graph from the manufacturer I note they have the maximum current at 800amps. So I think I will be hessitant to exceed that limit, although I suspect they are being conservative to rotect their product.
Back on subject, the peak power of my motor is 90Hp. If we assume it was a fair comparison and the performance is linear. My motor is roughly 4.5 times the capacity of yours. If I divide 150 Ft/Lbs by 4.5 I get 33 Ft/Lbs (only 3 above what I noted earlier). But I not 100% certain what that means for the current required to generate that torque. You are at 48V while I am at 144v nominal. Power is an easy calc but torque is more difficult. I suspect it is more about the current than the volts, so I suspect you will need about 130 amps to generate that 33 Ft/Lbs. Hopefully someone will chime in if I got this wrong because this is full of assumptions and guess work.
I think your gearbox will be fine. You don't have massive power or massive weight. What could possibly go wrong What kills clutches and gears is suddenly dropping the clutch with an engine that is being reved. With electric cars that scenario doesn't make sense. We start with the motor at 0 revs and generally with the drive train engaged. So we don't get the sudden surges of power. To some degree this compensates for the high torque.
I don't have motor cooling. I only do 60 seconds of hard work (not even that hard for my motor), then it sits unused for 5-15 minutes. The motor temp is fine up to around 120-150 C. The heat does build through the day because each run adds heat faster than it can dissipate. But the hottest I have seen it is only about 50-60 C at the end of a hard day. I am going to add a small fan next weekend, but this is more about getting the hot air away from the controller than the motor.
The battery coolant is just plain Glycol coolant. Not sure if that is what I should use, but I haven't noticed any problems.
I can't remember the capacity of the coolant pump. But I really don't think it's important. It only needs to be strong enough to get the coolant moving, even if it is only slow. So long as the coolant moves the heat from the batteries to the radiator it's all good. looking on Ebay just now I think it was like 80-100PSI they seem to sell for around $30.
Hmmm they don't seem to use the same standard for cable here. Ours are quotes in square mm. However if current ratings are anything to go by they sound about the same (mine are rated to 350amp too). My cables are 50 square mm. The 350amp rating is pesimistic / nominal rating. In other words you can push 350amps through them continuously for prolonged periods. But you can push way more than that through them for short periods. Its all about heat. More current plus more time = more heat and eventually melting conductor. But a quick spike of current won't have time to build enough heat to cause a problem. I have run single 350amp cables from the battery to the controller then I have doubled the conductors from the controller to the motor (because higher current is possible there).
The tyres you refered to on Youtube are "R spec" street legal track tyres. Mine are specifically 205/50/15s. R spec tyres are around 30-100% more expensive than sporty tyres for the road but they litterally give 25% better grip (I can take the same corner in the same car 25% faster). For next weekend I have brand new slicks 250 wide with no tread. These should be awesome!!! Combined with ramping up my power should make my day really exciting.
I see you spotted my older videos (galderdi). They were before I created the "Full Charge Motorsport" brand. And they were mostly with my old lead acid batteries.
Torque, well that is a difficult one. I have had a look at some of those BLDC motors and they seem to sit somewhere between 20 and 40 NM = 14.75 - 30 Ft Lbs but they don't say at what current. Torque is almost directly proportional to current (in the same motor). But I don't think it is correct to compare one motor to another, particularly diferent technologies.
Having said all that we can certainly consider some figures to understand some ballparks. DC motors a notorious for good torque figures. For my motor I have a graph that shows 10Ft/Lbs at 100amps and 150Ft/Lbs at 600amps.
As a side note, I am glad you prompted me with this question because by rechecking the graph from the manufacturer I note they have the maximum current at 800amps. So I think I will be hessitant to exceed that limit, although I suspect they are being conservative to rotect their product.
Back on subject, the peak power of my motor is 90Hp. If we assume it was a fair comparison and the performance is linear. My motor is roughly 4.5 times the capacity of yours. If I divide 150 Ft/Lbs by 4.5 I get 33 Ft/Lbs (only 3 above what I noted earlier). But I not 100% certain what that means for the current required to generate that torque. You are at 48V while I am at 144v nominal. Power is an easy calc but torque is more difficult. I suspect it is more about the current than the volts, so I suspect you will need about 130 amps to generate that 33 Ft/Lbs. Hopefully someone will chime in if I got this wrong because this is full of assumptions and guess work.
I think your gearbox will be fine. You don't have massive power or massive weight. What could possibly go wrong
What kills clutches and gears is suddenly dropping the clutch with an engine that is being reved. With electric cars that scenario doesn't make sense. We start with the motor at 0 revs and generally with the drive train engaged. So we don't get the sudden surges of power. To some degree this compensates for the high torque. I don't have motor cooling. I only do 60 seconds of hard work (not even that hard for my motor), then it sits unused for 5-15 minutes. The motor temp is fine up to around 120-150 C. The heat does build through the day because each run adds heat faster than it can dissipate. But the hottest I have seen it is only about 50-60 C at the end of a hard day. I am going to add a small fan next weekend, but this is more about getting the hot air away from the controller than the motor.
The battery coolant is just plain Glycol coolant. Not sure if that is what I should use, but I haven't noticed any problems.
I can't remember the capacity of the coolant pump. But I really don't think it's important. It only needs to be strong enough to get the coolant moving, even if it is only slow. So long as the coolant moves the heat from the batteries to the radiator it's all good. looking on Ebay just now I think it was like 80-100PSI they seem to sell for around $30.
Hmmm they don't seem to use the same standard for cable here. Ours are quotes in square mm. However if current ratings are anything to go by they sound about the same (mine are rated to 350amp too). My cables are 50 square mm. The 350amp rating is pesimistic / nominal rating. In other words you can push 350amps through them continuously for prolonged periods. But you can push way more than that through them for short periods. Its all about heat. More current plus more time = more heat and eventually melting conductor. But a quick spike of current won't have time to build enough heat to cause a problem. I have run single 350amp cables from the battery to the controller then I have doubled the conductors from the controller to the motor (because higher current is possible there).
The tyres you refered to on Youtube are "R spec" street legal track tyres. Mine are specifically 205/50/15s. R spec tyres are around 30-100% more expensive than sporty tyres for the road but they litterally give 25% better grip (I can take the same corner in the same car 25% faster). For next weekend I have brand new slicks 250 wide with no tread. These should be awesome!!! Combined with ramping up my power should make my day really exciting.
yes sir , call me young and inquisitive! all your answers are stellar, if i get 30 ft pounds of torque at 130 amps i believe id be pretty happy since the stock engine it came with output a whopping 12.6 pounds at 5500 rpm and 16.8hp at 7500rpm which i dont think i was every able to rev the engine up that high even at WOT . so this is exciting news to say the least, i also have my controller set at 315 amps maximum output... sooo roughly 20 hp at 15kw im going to go find me some good coolant to run in my batteries and make sure everything stays nice and tidy, as well as water cooling my motor, i want to make sure that thing stays very nice and cool, im considering building an automatic heating cooling system for the batteries using a thermostat depending on how the batteries fair with just cooling and a radiator.
im planning on using my buggy as a daily driver so im looking for some decent street tires, im wondering if i should go a bit smaller side wall to help with torque and quicker take offs. so im at that dillema as well. while i dont think ill be beating and chevy caprices (or in your case Holden Monaro's) off the line i do hope im keeping up with traffic and maybe even the prius!
to add to this my final build will include about 300w of incredibly light weight solar panels that will be able to trickle charge my batteries while parked and be able to run all my accessories such as stereo and home built mini conditioner assuming that little unit works out for me, as well as the radiators and coolers for the electronics.
i do sort of wish i had gone with a bigger motor like the 10 kw golden makes or even the 20kw but i suppose i can always upgrade later.
yes i did find your videos and honestly they are lovely i got my mother to watch a few with me and she was very impressed. i cant wait to get all my parts in so i can continue my build already! snail mail is killing me
im going to go find me some good coolant to run in my batteries and make sure everything stays nice and tidy, as well as water cooling my motor, i want to make sure that thing stays very nice and cool, im considering building an automatic heating cooling system for the batteries using a thermostat depending on how the batteries fair with just cooling and a radiator. im planning on using my buggy as a daily driver so im looking for some decent street tires, im wondering if i should go a bit smaller side wall to help with torque and quicker take offs. so im at that dillema as well. while i dont think ill be beating and chevy caprices (or in your case Holden Monaro's) off the line i do hope im keeping up with traffic and maybe even the prius!
to add to this my final build will include about 300w of incredibly light weight solar panels that will be able to trickle charge my batteries while parked and be able to run all my accessories such as stereo and home built mini conditioner assuming that little unit works out for me, as well as the radiators and coolers for the electronics.
i do sort of wish i had gone with a bigger motor like the 10 kw golden makes or even the 20kw but i suppose i can always upgrade later.
yes i did find your videos and honestly they are lovely i got my mother to watch a few with me and she was very impressed. i cant wait to get all my parts in so i can continue my build already! snail mail is killing me
You've already got wheels and tyres. Stick with them until your first test drive. Then you will know whether you need smaller wheels/tyres to gain torque and acceleration or taller wheels/tyres to gain top end speed. Otherwise you might end up investing twice.
well i do but they are offroad only tires so i cant really use them , but you may be right. i should maybe a wait a tad on those, but i can also always adjust the gear ratio to match them which would be easier. the tires arent a good idea to save on this vehicle haha
That depends what you mean.
If you mean having the lower batter take the weight of the top battery, don't do it! There is a risk of the plastic cover breaking and the cell terminals could bend over and short.
But if you mean have a frame that supports the top battery above the lower battery with a small gap between, I don't see a problem with that. Although you would want to make sure your BMS connections are operating properly before you finalise the installation. Otherwise it will be a pain everytime you need to make a change.
Either way you need a good solid base for the battery to sit on. Don't hang them with the long bolts. The long bolts are only good as an anchor point.
If you mean having the lower batter take the weight of the top battery, don't do it! There is a risk of the plastic cover breaking and the cell terminals could bend over and short.
But if you mean have a frame that supports the top battery above the lower battery with a small gap between, I don't see a problem with that. Although you would want to make sure your BMS connections are operating properly before you finalise the installation. Otherwise it will be a pain everytime you need to make a change.
Either way you need a good solid base for the battery to sit on. Don't hang them with the long bolts. The long bolts are only good as an anchor point.
yeah after alot of fiddiling, we have worked out that the drive train will have to be sat up high and use a chain to the final gear box forming sort of an L shape to make space for the batteries, we will build a floor and sub frame to fit 4 batteries, 2 sets in parallel with cooling. I do have a question you may have an answer too. so those EV chargers we see in car parks or garages with the gun shaped handle... how do those work, do they simply output mains voltage and the car controller deals with it? if thats the case could i just adapt my own charger with that plug and plug them in? im going to post some photos in a moment of the build currently!
its quite an interesting build. im still up in the air about the torque converters necessity in it , but i do believe it will help, oddly enough the converters max input rpm is like 3300 RPM, so we reduced it on the input and then are gearing it up on the outside, but it should give us more torque and lower amps being drawn from the get go hopefully saving the motor and batteries some heat and life, as well giving us a higher top end! that's the theory anyways.... BMS ordered, rims and tires on the way now all i need is a charger and im set!
lol my biggest genuine concern in the fact that its 900lbs im really concerned that 15kws worth of power just wont do it... am i off base here? the stock engine was claiming 17 hp andf 13 ft. lbs of torque, but it seemed so underpowered that it NEVER got up to top speed of 35mph, is that what i can expect here as well? i mean i know my hp should be around 20 to 22 hp but.... i dont know im consdiering maybe picking up a 10kw motor and running at full 20kw. ive also got the cooling systems almost ready to be mounted. yes im working as quickly as i can ! any time im not at school, running my business or doing homework, im on this buggy, i also have some help from a friend!
I think we already mentioned the basic rule of thumb is you only need 1/3 - 1/2 the power of an ICE motor to get the same performance. So conservatively you should expect twice the performance of that original motor. However I Think that rule of thumb is more about acceleration than speed. EVs are great at acceleration but not quite so good at speed (generally). This can be overcome but not without significant funds and effort. For basic builds like ours we must be content with the awesome acceleration. Anyway, if it doesn't work quite right, just upgrade. Now you know what you are doing it will be so much easier.
thats where i am sitting now, if it accelerates very quickly but no top end , then we will change sprockets, although i did some gear ratio math, as long as the electric motor puts out that torque it should have no issue running this buggy at a darn good speed. i played with the CVT i installed today and man is it cool as well as exciting, it really does a nice job. today we went ahead and finished stripping the buggy , removed any more unnecessary tabs, welded on a mount for my high beams (they are required) removed all the old nasty logos and sanded her down, removed any rust, and primered her in a few places, shes ready for paint now! monday she gets her drive train welded down and put into place. then we can start spraying her down with some paint and then start running electrical. i am not looking forward to doing all the BMS wiring. thats 14 tabs per battery x3 batteries. its going to be exhausting... also figuring out the orientation of each battery so that i dont cross wires and short anything out! since you are using VOLT batteries , are the 2kwh modules 44.4v nominal or 48v nominal? also when it comes to voltage , so we call them after their nominal voltage or peak voltage? ive been told these are 12s batteries but would love a confirmation
12s3p meaning 12 cells in sets of three to provide high amperage outputs? mind showing me your bms wiring? also how do you charge your packs? i am getting a 120/240v charger, but want to figure out how i can set it up to charge on level 2 chargers that we find in our parking garages, do you have any idea how to get these to work? so far i understand two of the terminals out of the 4 are AC 120 lines, the third is a neutral ground. the fourth is a low voltage pilot wire or signal wire. my only confusion is where do we get a signal from? the BMS? a relay?
More progress made this weekend. I ordered a few switches to allow my shifter knob to illuminate the corresponding gear on my dash board! im hoping it works. I ordered some polystyrene sheets to start building my dashboard and switch panels. light weight and clean looking! i ordered the third battery for a pack that should take me a good 60 miles give or take. ordered a basket for the back with a dump door so its more like a truck bed. now im ordering my charger and pretty much all major things should be ready and in stock or on its way for completion of this project!! some odds and ends will still be bought along the way. this project has also saved a life already! i found a dog on the side of the road on the ay home from my project site and took him home, i named him Estefan, hes a great dog and i will be seeking a place to home him!
More progress made this weekend. I ordered a few switches to allow my shifter knob to illuminate the corresponding gear on my dash board! im hoping it works. I ordered some polystyrene sheets to start building my dashboard and switch panels. light weight and clean looking! i ordered the third battery for a pack that should take me a good 60 miles give or take. ordered a basket for the back with a dump door so its more like a truck bed. now im ordering my charger and pretty much all major things should be ready and in stock or on its way for completion of this project!! some odds and ends will still be bought along the way. this project has also saved a life already! i found a dog on the side of the road on the ay home from my project site and took him home, i named him Estefan, hes a great dog and i will be seeking a place to home him!
The 3p part means 3 cells connected in parrallel into a pack. Then the 12S means 12 of those packs connected in series. So each of your 44.4V modules actually contains 36 cells.
Here is a pic of my BMS boards and wiring. It is a bit of a mess in this pic as they were only partially installed. Once they are fully installed I can't get a good photo because my seat is in the way.
I really don't know much about the chargers. Until now I have been using a hobby charger to charge 6s3p at a time. I just clip alligator clips on to the terminals (metalic tabs) of the relevant cells. It literally takes me 3 weeks to charge it.
I have purchased a Thunderstruck charger. I just need to spend the time to wire it all up. I have been focused on my event for this weekend but after that the charger will be highest priority.
Here is a pic of my BMS boards and wiring. It is a bit of a mess in this pic as they were only partially installed. Once they are fully installed I can't get a good photo because my seat is in the way.
I really don't know much about the chargers. Until now I have been using a hobby charger to charge 6s3p at a time. I just clip alligator clips on to the terminals (metalic tabs) of the relevant cells. It literally takes me 3 weeks to charge it.
I have purchased a Thunderstruck charger. I just need to spend the time to wire it all up. I have been focused on my event for this weekend but after that the charger will be highest priority.
ok so im not insane to think that sometimes it can be inconvenient to charge these things. im waiting on odds and ends to get the charging system set up now, i got my BMS today and its beautiful, nice big screen, it will monitor temperature as well as voltages etc. i am very happy about that. the biggest pain in my rear will be making all the wires and criomping to set up the BMS on ALL of my packs , i am not looking forward to it, fortunately once i do that i should be pretty much gravy and on my way to getting this project in the bag! i ordered the charger today and it is capable of level 1 and level 2 charging which excites me, however i dont know how many amps it can take in at a time without causing harm. im also looking into picking up some components to be able to plug it in to the public chargers. i learned alot about it today and almost have it figured out!
Unless you have purchased a top of the line charger for a squillian dollars it is extremely unlikely to put out enough current to damage your cells.
It is inconvienient when corners are cut. But you are going down the right path. It should be fairly straight forward, plug it in and wait. The BMS will do all the work for you.
But you are also right in that the installation is inconvienient. I only had a few inches of slack in my BMS wires. Connecting it all up was very awkward. The box is only about 2 feet from the ground and obscured by my roll cage and seat. I had to bend over for prolonged period with my arms and head interwoven into the car. Plus my eyes struggle to focus close up so I invested in some magnifying glasses so I could see what I was doing. Its not something I wish to do again any time soon.
The only thing you will need to manage is when it is charged and when it is not to be charged. Keep in mind these batteries are much happier if they are stored at something like 60% SOC. So in otherwords don't fully charge it until just before you think you'll be using it. I know you plan to use this daily so most of the time this idea won't apply. But if you go on holidays or something leave it at 60% until you return.
It is inconvienient when corners are cut. But you are going down the right path. It should be fairly straight forward, plug it in and wait. The BMS will do all the work for you.
But you are also right in that the installation is inconvienient. I only had a few inches of slack in my BMS wires. Connecting it all up was very awkward. The box is only about 2 feet from the ground and obscured by my roll cage and seat. I had to bend over for prolonged period with my arms and head interwoven into the car. Plus my eyes struggle to focus close up so I invested in some magnifying glasses so I could see what I was doing. Its not something I wish to do again any time soon.
The only thing you will need to manage is when it is charged and when it is not to be charged. Keep in mind these batteries are much happier if they are stored at something like 60% SOC. So in otherwords don't fully charge it until just before you think you'll be using it. I know you plan to use this daily so most of the time this idea won't apply. But if you go on holidays or something leave it at 60% until you return.
that is a genius recommendation! i will be doing that, i love my new BMS system so far, it looks quite handsome. so im excited to use it. I have made sure that the batteries and BMS system are fairly easy to access via removing the seats or going through the side so i should have plenty of space to work on them if i ever need too, or enough space to add a 4th battery if i ever decide to. it makes me sad that this platform cant fit more than 4 , it would be awesome to fit an entire volt battery pack and get a 200 mile range! maybe even make it a longer trip cruiser. im nutty like that i suppose. i do have it planned that eventually i will replace these batteries with lower profile batteries and maybe double the range. but for now a town cruiser is perfect. and oddly enough... in its current form i may be able to add a forbidden range extender via a portable tiny generator! so thats kind of funny and interesting.
But wait there's more. With every EV project you get a set of steak knives.......If you want range use a little trailer (I'm not sure what you call them over there). Just a small tray on two wheels with a short tow bar to attach it to a hitch on the back of your EV. Put a whole EV battery pack in there with fairly heavy duty cable connecting it in parrallel to your main pack. You can use the large Anderson Plugs to connect and disconnect (like I do in my EV). You will need to make sure the total voltage of the extra pack is equal to the voltage of your main pack. You would need to connect many of the modules in parrallel to achieve that. Plus when you are planning to connect it in you would need to make sure both packs are at the same State of Charge. Plus you would need to have some sort of bungy or spring to suspend the portion of the cable above the hitch. This would make sure it always stays clear of the hitch. If you did go down this path I would also suggest building the extender pack out of multiple modules that match you main module. This way lets say you end up with 4 x what you have now. You can use the same charger to charge all 4 packs (one at a time). But the BMS is another story, I am not quite sure of the best path there as it depends how your BMS works. You might get away with adding extra BMS modules and changing the configuration when you add or delete the extender. Or you might need another BMS specifically for the extender. But I think the more likey scenario would be a seperate BMS for each of 4 packs otherwise how will the BMS know what pack the charger is dealing with.
Food for thought. Plus this can always be done as a side project with very little impact to your original EV.
Food for thought. Plus this can always be done as a side project with very little impact to your original EV.
where do i call in my steak knives? also i think that is really genius plus i could use it for storage as well for extra luggage if i needed to make a trip and funny enough i was going to add a tow hitch to my buggy. i think i could just keep the bms wired to all the cells in parallel to get it to do what i want it too. also throw a few solar panel bad boys up top to help keep a trickle coming in!im thinking you should hop on a plane and come work on this! you know it would be fun! haha this buggy is mean to be a flexible platform to make sure i can just about whatever i want to with it. i wish i could find 24 inch adjustable shocks for my rears this would make my life much better i think o cope woth the extra weight if anything. tomorrow ill be working on wiring up the batteries do you know the hex nut size on the terminals of these batteries?
more progress today, we managed to weld in aluminum shelf in the back to hold all the electronics, all mounts for radiators are welded on. mounts for roof panels and speakers have been welded on, we are finishing the new seat mounts, and waiting for the third battery to arrive, i checked the two i have with the bms i ordered each one is at 4 and 5 % capacity respectively, so charging is definitely needed at this point, charger is on its way as well, and we are finally making head way on getting a j1772 charging input with interface installed as well so all chargers will be at my disposal! ordered some LED RZR Headlights so now ill be running with some incredibly bright and efficient LED headlights instead of using mini light bars. also picked up an ATV cargo bed thats fairly light for the rear so it will be very functional and adding a small tow hitch tomorrow in case i want to make a small trailer for more batteries and solar panels! roof will have at least two 120w solar panels as they are an exact fit for my roof panels. bottom panels of corrugated plastic will be installed to make the under body nice and smooth, as well as bigger wheels that should be a bit lighter will be arriving, as much as i hate how much steel we have had to use , we have also removed a lot from the chassis. so overall weight gain shouldn't be too much last bit will be getting custom front and rear windshields made , those will have to come last since i have to take it to a plastic shop to get made up custom. once we finish welding and adding tabs we will be golden and ready to paint and attach stuff to it and most importantly start wiring. my biggest current concern is the idea of wiring the BMS system and running the batteries properly in parallel.. and wiring the BMS links to each battery in parallel... 48v isnt much but it can kill ya, or blow up so im hoping none of those things happen!
progress update. we now have a fully outfitted buggy and we ran our first test drive!
batteries were mounted, BMS system is wired and installed. charging system is installed, drive train all set, most of the accessory electrics are installed minus head lights and blinkers. but brake lights are all in , as well as horns, . windshield as well as stereo is in.control panel is in. voltage meter is mounted on dashboard. wire mnagement is under way. that is all the good
now for the bad. we used a CVT torque covnerter. which means that its a tad loud, maxes out pretty quick though there is alot of benefit to it, but the biggest issue is we have to spin the motor up to 1500 rpm or so before it engages. so that kind of sucks. im considering ditching the cvt. we stopped the current completely wrong gear ratio at about 25.... which is clearly bad, also the motor would sometimes cut out and we have no idea why , almsot as if it demanded too much power and didnt like that, which makes no sense since they is plenty of power.
so main issues, gear ratios too low
CVT TAKES TOO long to engage
way too loud.
motor cutting out, any suggestions?
batteries were mounted, BMS system is wired and installed. charging system is installed, drive train all set, most of the accessory electrics are installed minus head lights and blinkers. but brake lights are all in , as well as horns, . windshield as well as stereo is in.control panel is in. voltage meter is mounted on dashboard. wire mnagement is under way. that is all the good
now for the bad. we used a CVT torque covnerter. which means that its a tad loud, maxes out pretty quick though there is alot of benefit to it, but the biggest issue is we have to spin the motor up to 1500 rpm or so before it engages. so that kind of sucks. im considering ditching the cvt. we stopped the current completely wrong gear ratio at about 25.... which is clearly bad, also the motor would sometimes cut out and we have no idea why , almsot as if it demanded too much power and didnt like that, which makes no sense since they is plenty of power.
so main issues, gear ratios too low
CVT TAKES TOO long to engage
way too loud.
motor cutting out, any suggestions?
Similar threads
