Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor
- Thread starter neptronix
- Start date
Chalo
100 TW
AdR said:
For the motor that's already on your bike? Show us the plug that connects it to the controller.
electric_nz
1 kW
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2019
- Messages
- 308
Just received a new 1500W model set up for 25mph top speed (don’t need to go much faster on the cycle lanes near me). It’s nicely laced into a wide Mavic rim and appears to be very straight and true to my eye. The controller is a new model 18 FET with HY3208 FETs and caps rated to 80V.
Is there any way to tell externally how many turns it has?
Is there any way to tell externally how many turns it has?
ZeroEm
1 MW
Could be marked somewhere like the inside of the motor. They did not mark mine. You could test the unloaded rpm. If you want a guess then it's a 6T. They default to 48V but time are changing. A leaf motor running on 48V and only does 25mph is around a 6T. I ordered mine for 20mph and it's a 7T but run it on 72V so top end is 33 mph.
Just a guess, I would like a 6T added to my stable.
Chalo
100 TW
Leaf Bike support told me this a short few years ago:
Respectively, that's 8T, 7T, and 6T, notwithstanding the weird nomenclature.
Respectively, that's 8T, 7T, and 6T, notwithstanding the weird nomenclature.
ZeroEm
1 MW
Looking at the controller in the PIC, Leaf Bike is supporting 45a now, last year they started supporting 52V. Don't think the motor has changed after the Phase Wire up grade years ago. It's a shame motors are not advancing faster and this is still one of the best in it's range. I would like little longer axel to try to run a 8-9 speed in a little wider fork.
markz
100 TW
Figured I'd post kind of a build/repair log here for the internal Leaf 1500W pictures, if anyones interested in the pictures and not a story or both, something for everyone 
---------------------------------------------
Overview of this post
- Trying to figuring out the Turn Count and Strand Count of the hand written markings. Links to that info.
- Lots and lots of internal pictures of the Leaf 1500, stator, laminations, wire axle exit, magnets and drive side cover plate, hub markings. Yes its a rear hub on the front of a fat bike.
- Take note: After about 1.5-2yrs of lots of use (Riding everyday) not a power house at 36V 35A controller using 36V unknown A and Ah, and yes I am using a 52V 40A Grintech with BMS so yes a LVC. But its hauling 375lbs of my body weight, now its 315lbs for 6-8 month diet.
- Actual Repair of phase wires I will post tomorrow in its own post. Not using sensor wires for sensorless controller, Greentime if you must know, as above 36V 35A, e-abs.
- Helpful advice for noobs on how to take stator out of magnet ring, not needing a 3 prong puller.
- What wire gauge the phase wires are.
---------------------------------------------
Just took the stator out.
I have to deal with the frayed phase wires as the electrical tape just isnt enough anymore.
Dealt with a flat, brand new hardly used Kenda thorn proof with the rim hole slicing a hole in the stem. Took a Mastercraft rotary with a disk to slide over hole on both walls of the hole as the disk was much larger then rim hole, to get any shards protruding, then a stone bit that fit good in the hole.
Figured I'd install 3 broken spokes which you can see nice shiny new washers in the pic.
I've been riding with 3 broken spokes for months now, its a front hub so no issues other then wobbly.
If it was on the rear it wouldnt last a week with my heavy weight.
Put hub back on the fork, buttoned up the non disk side and went to disk side, was inspecting disk bolt to wire clearence and spun the hub and sparks. No good.
Took forever to unwind the stupid protective spring. Sliced back the protective covering by using one of the unused sensor wires. Snipped off my 5.5mm Hobbyking bullets on the phase wires. Took off disk. Undid cover plate, left other side on. Hit hub axle to the concrete floor, held rim down with a knee on the rim/tire at 6oclock and hand at 12, stator angled a bit and got slightly jammed so had to redo it, actually had to hit the stator axle on the other side to jam it back in place as normal, then redo the other side hitting axle to get stator out, be careful, magnets are powerful. Stator laminations should be complete out of magnet ring, with knee at 6, one hand at 12, take other hand and lift the stator up and out, no need for a 3-prong puller
Not sure what the markings mean.
I thought I bought a 5T winding but if I bought a 6T winding then thats what I would have preferred. For me with whatever turn count I have, 36V is good speed wise and 52V is to fast.
?????? ---> Copper fill strands 545 or 54.5 or 46 and Turn Count t6, or turn count 5 copper fill strands 45 ??????????
"545
t6"
or
"545
46"
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1596150&hilit=turn+count+fill#p1596150
- Enough room for 66 strands
- So 3T, 6T, and 11T have full copper fill
- 5T and 13T have 65 strands, and 4T and 8T have 64 strands. 7T and 9T have 63 strands. I don't think any of these are bad enough to avoid using the right RPM/volt for your application. I would avoid 10T with only 60 strands.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1188156&hilit=strand#p1188156
- And yes, the 5T (13*5 / 65 strands) has one more strand than the 4T (16*4 / 64 strands).
Not sure how long I've had this Leaf 1500W for, lived its life with a 36V setup until a year ago when I bought a 52V 40A 15Ah Grintech battery, the 36V is of unknown amp discharge rate and much much less its original Ah/Wh judging by distance ridden before lvc. 36V 35A controller, motors gotten plenty hot (by touching cover) on short hills.
Cooked the mxus 3kw back in Feb 2020 and talked about already having the Leaf 1500W then, in a post.
FYI - I just wiped the inner with water.
I have some - Sprayon EL601 RED INSULATING VARNISH - 15 oz AEROSOL - I may use.
I am lucky I didnt pop a fet in the controller.
Yeah I knew about the wire was frayed.
I just wrapped electrical tape around each phase wire. :lol:
I don't know what I am going to do with the phase wires. My first instinct was to grab some regular heat shrink that I have plenty of in different sizes but its thin wall cheap stuff.
I will buy some thicker double wall 3:1 heat shrink to shove down in there, I dont have much slack to pull the phase wires out like I did in the mxus 3kw.
By the looks of it not much slack at all, as seen in the picture below.
I may have to rewire it. Will find a post on the wire gauge.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1554565&hilit=wire+gauge#p1554565
I will buy some short roll 12g and 14g. No ebiking tomorrow to the store for supplies, I will have to repair it right. :thumb:
14/2 marine - https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/marine142.htm
Pico marine 12g - https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/9012-0-44.htm
Dual wall 3:1 dunbar - https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/3625ws3-fslash-16.htm
So I either
A) use what I have right now, thin wall 2:1 and shove it down as far as it will go and double/triple layer it. Do the repair, put it all back together and I can ride my ebike to the store to buy what I need in B for later on in time, and order C.
B) or with no ebike or regular bicycle will have to get a ride to the train and a small walk to buy some double wall 3:1 and wire for the phases. Take train back, get a ride or take the bus.
C) order some ptfe teflon wire from my source in Cali and wait. Which is out of the question.
I know Home Depot/Lowes has a spring I can slip on the new wire for added protection.
3/8 and I see a 1/4 and 1/2
https://www.lowes.ca/product/gate-hardware/hillman-8-38-in-utility-extension-spring-246638
https://www.grainger.ca/en/category/Extension%20Springs/Springs/c/16633?type=cp&q=Utility+Extension+Spring&searchBar=true&nls=NLSAA_8-1&code=%3E=70%
https://greggdistributors.ca/search?q=Extension%20Spring&resp_group=Default,Variations,ItemProperties
Interesting, I did not notice the silicone and heat shrink at the wire entrance on axle.
Also the sensor wires are cut and in the axle. Never used them anyways.
Snapped some more pictures
This picture is insteresting. When I pulled the stator out of the magnet ring, 3 pieces of thin card cardboard fell out. I think it must be protection on the hall sensor pcb board. If I remember I will snap some pics of that, its out in the garage. Actually looking closer with a magnify glass those thin cardboard pieces are most likely slotting material that fell out. Without the magnify glass I couldnt see much, bad eyesight, but magnifine glass reveals there is paper/insulation U shape material wrapping around the windings and a card board piece on top for each slot.
Color of winding looks good and healthy. :thumb:
No distinct smell from a foot away, very slight odor up close.
----------------------------------------
Edit
Ok so I just snipped the wire off as far into the axle as I could and they slipped out nice.
I then took out the silicone and heat shrink at the axle wire entrance as the wire was binding on it trying to slide it through.
I have a bunch of spare wires, 10awg silicone is to big for 3 wires. 12awg in silicone and regular is to big. I have 14/2 (in the yellow cable insulation, 2 wires are red and black) as seen in the pics to compare stock phase wires to the 14/2 wires) that looks the same as the Leaf 1500W phase wires.
Yellow Leaf phase wire is the top one, in the pic.
I decided to reuse the stock wires. Perhaps not the best practice, as moisture crawls up into the wire as shown in Justins old video of water ingress. So will have to ponder that one.
To late now, need to solder the phase wires tomorrow.
Might try to find some 13g wire if it exists, order it for next time the hub is opened up.
13g does exist in magnet wire.
Extra pics will be all attached for now, until edit tomorrow.
:wink:
First pic of frayed ends cut by axle and disk bolts.
Which reminds me I have to take a rotary tool with stone grinder to the axle entrance and exit.
Undo the sense wrap job and just zip tie so sense dont get damaged insulation.
Its a wire to wire solder job on the phases, lots and lots of heat shrink and proper wire management.
edit - So I will keep all my ramblings in this post for the Leaf 35H "1500W"
I've added more pics, made pic comments to all the pictures.
I have a digital caliper, typical caliper mine is Mastercraft from Canadian Tire.
Sense wire is 0.95mm O.D. with insulation, wire is 0.62mm. Probably squished the wire in a bit.
Phase wire is 2.89mm O.D. with insulation, wire is 2.24mm.
Bearing # @ 12 o'clock W 8 Z @ 6 o'clock 6204-RZ with an 01 @ 3 o'clock.
Measures 19.70mm ID caliper depth gauge is close enough 47.64 OD (brown ring) angling caliper was a bit off so yeah 47mm
W8Z 6204-RZ 01 - https://www.fagbearing.cc/SKF-bearings/6204_RZ_SKF_55004.html
For all you Amazon gamers out there - https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-6204RZ-Roller-Skating-Bearing-47x20x14mm/dp/B00N3Y0VWC
8 cover plate bolts
Total length 14.91
12.7mm is thread length measured without washer
Lamination width is 34.91mm which is a 35H. Not bothering to count the # of laminations.
More random measurements for future reference.
Total width of laminations plus both sides with winding wire is 47.49mm
axle flat to end of axle on hall sensor pcb side is 33.15mm
wire exit side is 30.36mm
Problem using old wire is the flux core solder doesnt spread and shine when you try to join wire together because of the moisture wicking up the conductor when it was in use and fouling the conductor surface so solder doesnt bond good enough for my liking. Its got to be a solid connection and I tried twice and its a no go. I used the side of the 18" wire furthest away from the damaged axle exit. So yes, the stock wire has a more solid insulator so I dont know if I want to go ahead with my 14/2 because it measures 2.15-2.20mm vs stock phase wires @ 2.24mm with stiffer strands.
I will be hooking up brand new wire straight to the windings.
![20210915_185419[1].jpg](https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/data/attachments/170/170460-1dff1d165c3792a555ffd09bfbadf8cd.jpg "20210915_185419[1].jpg")
edit
ok I said frock it and went with some 14/2 wire, just cant solder the old wire due to moisture wicking. Theres probably a 0.15mm difference in conductor diameter, now smaller. I need to find whatever high heat winding wrap Leaf used or find high heat shrink wrap. There's gotta be something out there.
![20210915_221353[1].jpg](https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/data/attachments/170/170469-0bb05f6cdc0b5381f54a5df57b1d62c4.jpg "20210915_221353[1].jpg")
---------------------------------------------
Overview of this post
- Trying to figuring out the Turn Count and Strand Count of the hand written markings. Links to that info.
- Lots and lots of internal pictures of the Leaf 1500, stator, laminations, wire axle exit, magnets and drive side cover plate, hub markings. Yes its a rear hub on the front of a fat bike.
- Take note: After about 1.5-2yrs of lots of use (Riding everyday) not a power house at 36V 35A controller using 36V unknown A and Ah, and yes I am using a 52V 40A Grintech with BMS so yes a LVC. But its hauling 375lbs of my body weight, now its 315lbs for 6-8 month diet.
- Actual Repair of phase wires I will post tomorrow in its own post. Not using sensor wires for sensorless controller, Greentime if you must know, as above 36V 35A, e-abs.
- Helpful advice for noobs on how to take stator out of magnet ring, not needing a 3 prong puller.
- What wire gauge the phase wires are.
---------------------------------------------
Just took the stator out.
I have to deal with the frayed phase wires as the electrical tape just isnt enough anymore.
Dealt with a flat, brand new hardly used Kenda thorn proof with the rim hole slicing a hole in the stem. Took a Mastercraft rotary with a disk to slide over hole on both walls of the hole as the disk was much larger then rim hole, to get any shards protruding, then a stone bit that fit good in the hole.
Figured I'd install 3 broken spokes which you can see nice shiny new washers in the pic.
I've been riding with 3 broken spokes for months now, its a front hub so no issues other then wobbly.
If it was on the rear it wouldnt last a week with my heavy weight.
Put hub back on the fork, buttoned up the non disk side and went to disk side, was inspecting disk bolt to wire clearence and spun the hub and sparks. No good.
Took forever to unwind the stupid protective spring. Sliced back the protective covering by using one of the unused sensor wires. Snipped off my 5.5mm Hobbyking bullets on the phase wires. Took off disk. Undid cover plate, left other side on. Hit hub axle to the concrete floor, held rim down with a knee on the rim/tire at 6oclock and hand at 12, stator angled a bit and got slightly jammed so had to redo it, actually had to hit the stator axle on the other side to jam it back in place as normal, then redo the other side hitting axle to get stator out, be careful, magnets are powerful. Stator laminations should be complete out of magnet ring, with knee at 6, one hand at 12, take other hand and lift the stator up and out, no need for a 3-prong puller
Not sure what the markings mean.
I thought I bought a 5T winding but if I bought a 6T winding then thats what I would have preferred. For me with whatever turn count I have, 36V is good speed wise and 52V is to fast.
?????? ---> Copper fill strands 545 or 54.5 or 46 and Turn Count t6, or turn count 5 copper fill strands 45 ??????????
"545
t6"
or
"545
46"
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1596150&hilit=turn+count+fill#p1596150
- Enough room for 66 strands
- So 3T, 6T, and 11T have full copper fill
- 5T and 13T have 65 strands, and 4T and 8T have 64 strands. 7T and 9T have 63 strands. I don't think any of these are bad enough to avoid using the right RPM/volt for your application. I would avoid 10T with only 60 strands.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1188156&hilit=strand#p1188156
- And yes, the 5T (13*5 / 65 strands) has one more strand than the 4T (16*4 / 64 strands).
Not sure how long I've had this Leaf 1500W for, lived its life with a 36V setup until a year ago when I bought a 52V 40A 15Ah Grintech battery, the 36V is of unknown amp discharge rate and much much less its original Ah/Wh judging by distance ridden before lvc. 36V 35A controller, motors gotten plenty hot (by touching cover) on short hills.
Cooked the mxus 3kw back in Feb 2020 and talked about already having the Leaf 1500W then, in a post.
FYI - I just wiped the inner with water.
I have some - Sprayon EL601 RED INSULATING VARNISH - 15 oz AEROSOL - I may use.
I am lucky I didnt pop a fet in the controller.
Yeah I knew about the wire was frayed.
I just wrapped electrical tape around each phase wire. :lol:
I don't know what I am going to do with the phase wires. My first instinct was to grab some regular heat shrink that I have plenty of in different sizes but its thin wall cheap stuff.
I will buy some thicker double wall 3:1 heat shrink to shove down in there, I dont have much slack to pull the phase wires out like I did in the mxus 3kw.
By the looks of it not much slack at all, as seen in the picture below.
I may have to rewire it. Will find a post on the wire gauge.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1554565&hilit=wire+gauge#p1554565
I will buy some short roll 12g and 14g. No ebiking tomorrow to the store for supplies, I will have to repair it right. :thumb:
14/2 marine - https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/marine142.htm
Pico marine 12g - https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/9012-0-44.htm
Dual wall 3:1 dunbar - https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/3625ws3-fslash-16.htm
So I either
A) use what I have right now, thin wall 2:1 and shove it down as far as it will go and double/triple layer it. Do the repair, put it all back together and I can ride my ebike to the store to buy what I need in B for later on in time, and order C.
B) or with no ebike or regular bicycle will have to get a ride to the train and a small walk to buy some double wall 3:1 and wire for the phases. Take train back, get a ride or take the bus.
C) order some ptfe teflon wire from my source in Cali and wait. Which is out of the question.
I know Home Depot/Lowes has a spring I can slip on the new wire for added protection.
3/8 and I see a 1/4 and 1/2
https://www.lowes.ca/product/gate-hardware/hillman-8-38-in-utility-extension-spring-246638
https://www.grainger.ca/en/category/Extension%20Springs/Springs/c/16633?type=cp&q=Utility+Extension+Spring&searchBar=true&nls=NLSAA_8-1&code=%3E=70%
https://greggdistributors.ca/search?q=Extension%20Spring&resp_group=Default,Variations,ItemProperties
Interesting, I did not notice the silicone and heat shrink at the wire entrance on axle.
Also the sensor wires are cut and in the axle. Never used them anyways.
Snapped some more pictures
This picture is insteresting. When I pulled the stator out of the magnet ring, 3 pieces of thin card cardboard fell out. I think it must be protection on the hall sensor pcb board. If I remember I will snap some pics of that, its out in the garage. Actually looking closer with a magnify glass those thin cardboard pieces are most likely slotting material that fell out. Without the magnify glass I couldnt see much, bad eyesight, but magnifine glass reveals there is paper/insulation U shape material wrapping around the windings and a card board piece on top for each slot.
Color of winding looks good and healthy. :thumb:
No distinct smell from a foot away, very slight odor up close.
----------------------------------------
Edit
Ok so I just snipped the wire off as far into the axle as I could and they slipped out nice.
I then took out the silicone and heat shrink at the axle wire entrance as the wire was binding on it trying to slide it through.
I have a bunch of spare wires, 10awg silicone is to big for 3 wires. 12awg in silicone and regular is to big. I have 14/2 (in the yellow cable insulation, 2 wires are red and black) as seen in the pics to compare stock phase wires to the 14/2 wires) that looks the same as the Leaf 1500W phase wires.
Yellow Leaf phase wire is the top one, in the pic.
I decided to reuse the stock wires. Perhaps not the best practice, as moisture crawls up into the wire as shown in Justins old video of water ingress. So will have to ponder that one.
To late now, need to solder the phase wires tomorrow.
Might try to find some 13g wire if it exists, order it for next time the hub is opened up.
13g does exist in magnet wire.
Extra pics will be all attached for now, until edit tomorrow.
:wink:
First pic of frayed ends cut by axle and disk bolts.
Which reminds me I have to take a rotary tool with stone grinder to the axle entrance and exit.
Undo the sense wrap job and just zip tie so sense dont get damaged insulation.
Its a wire to wire solder job on the phases, lots and lots of heat shrink and proper wire management.
edit - So I will keep all my ramblings in this post for the Leaf 35H "1500W"
I've added more pics, made pic comments to all the pictures.
I have a digital caliper, typical caliper mine is Mastercraft from Canadian Tire.
Sense wire is 0.95mm O.D. with insulation, wire is 0.62mm. Probably squished the wire in a bit.
Phase wire is 2.89mm O.D. with insulation, wire is 2.24mm.
Bearing # @ 12 o'clock W 8 Z @ 6 o'clock 6204-RZ with an 01 @ 3 o'clock.
Measures 19.70mm ID caliper depth gauge is close enough 47.64 OD (brown ring) angling caliper was a bit off so yeah 47mm
W8Z 6204-RZ 01 - https://www.fagbearing.cc/SKF-bearings/6204_RZ_SKF_55004.html
For all you Amazon gamers out there - https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-6204RZ-Roller-Skating-Bearing-47x20x14mm/dp/B00N3Y0VWC
8 cover plate bolts
Total length 14.91
12.7mm is thread length measured without washer
Lamination width is 34.91mm which is a 35H. Not bothering to count the # of laminations.
More random measurements for future reference.
Total width of laminations plus both sides with winding wire is 47.49mm
axle flat to end of axle on hall sensor pcb side is 33.15mm
wire exit side is 30.36mm
Problem using old wire is the flux core solder doesnt spread and shine when you try to join wire together because of the moisture wicking up the conductor when it was in use and fouling the conductor surface so solder doesnt bond good enough for my liking. Its got to be a solid connection and I tried twice and its a no go. I used the side of the 18" wire furthest away from the damaged axle exit. So yes, the stock wire has a more solid insulator so I dont know if I want to go ahead with my 14/2 because it measures 2.15-2.20mm vs stock phase wires @ 2.24mm with stiffer strands.
I will be hooking up brand new wire straight to the windings.
edit
ok I said frock it and went with some 14/2 wire, just cant solder the old wire due to moisture wicking. Theres probably a 0.15mm difference in conductor diameter, now smaller. I need to find whatever high heat winding wrap Leaf used or find high heat shrink wrap. There's gotta be something out there.
Attachments
![20210915_190113[1].jpg](/sphere/data/attachments/170/170461-2695a5b396a45855cea5db1c06f9c93f.jpg)
ZeroEm
1 MW
Not even a temperature sensor?
electric_nz said:
Darn, for 25mph use, you should have bought the smaller motor. The 35mm wide leafs hit their peak efficiency at 30mph. A 28mm wide leaf would have been the best motor for you. A smaller motor will have it's efficiency peak at a lower mph.
electric_nz said:
Nope, but you can get yourself a $10 laser tachometer off ebay and run a no-load test and correlate it with your voltage. rpm / voltage while unloaded = the motor's kV. You can take this kV figure and correlate it to the known no-load voltage of the windings we've experimented.
Or you could open the motor case.
Chalo
100 TW
neptronix said:
I think that's overgeneralizing, both because Leaf offers different kV windings on request, and because load at speed varies wildly between different bikes and riders. Put a fat guy sitting straight up on one of those goofy small wheel fat tire folding bikes, and he might only get 20 mph from the amount of power that would propel a medium sized rider 30 mph on a drop bar bike or a 'bent.
Yeah and those factors will swing pretty much everything.
I'm talking about the most common use case.. 26 inch wheel, upright bike, average weight.
Look at the trend in most motor's dyno graphs.. peak efficiency happens between 60-80% of the rated continuous wattage.
I'm talking about the most common use case.. 26 inch wheel, upright bike, average weight.
Look at the trend in most motor's dyno graphs.. peak efficiency happens between 60-80% of the rated continuous wattage.
neptronix said:
I like playing with the Grin Tech Motor Simulator and changing things around like wheel diameter and the aerodynamic drag to see how it affects top speed. They have several options in the drop down menu to increase/decrease drag or you can insert your own if you have a reasonable idea what your actual drag coefficient is...which I don't :lol: . The "Fatbike, Upright" usually matches my real world data pretty good because I ride standing up 98% of the time so I have a fairly large frontal area :thumb: .
john61ct said:
That's a good question, this figure is at a 0% grade in normal conditions. Once you get into different kinds of loads, the peak efficiency point can swing wildly.
1000W pulling up a grade slowly versus 1000w traveling on ground are in two opposite places of the efficiency curve.
If your motor has gears in it, this is another variable that can swing the equation a lot.
At certain RPMs, the gear friction may become a lesser or greater portion of the load.
This is why the ebikes.ca motor simulator is so damn complex. It really wants to model everything so that you can get as close to a scientifically accurate answer as possible.
ZeroEm
1 MW
For my riding style's, a two speed would be good to keep the motor in it's best range. But don't like geared hubs, don't want a mid drive with a trans. Thought about a Voltage solution. low speed, Low Volts, high amps. Some how translon to higher volts and less amps.
Hmm interesting.ZeroEm said:
Easiest if it could be made to work just switching a half-split pack from parallel to serial to double the voltage (halve the Ah)
I've seen this on boats with (by default) 12V House banks,
but when the anchor windlass or propulsion motor requires 24V
Ann-Marie Foster of Yandina Ltd (inventor of the combiner/VSR/ACR switch) came up with her TrollBridge product http://www.yandina.com/troll2400info.htm
to do just that.
Also apparently racing trucks? http://www.gonefcon.com/trucktcom/parallel_sw.htm
markz
100 TW
Looks like there is non, I counted only pwr, gnd, 3 sensor wires.
Its the least of my worries for now, be nice to have a temp sensor epoxied in with the wire routed out the axle.
I got some lame 14/2 probably Home Depot hook-up wire I used for the phase wires in order to get me around, can't stand not having me ebike ready to ride anywhere I'd like to go.
Haven't sourced any decent wire for the phases. I lost my California guy website link who sold me the 10g or 12g Teflon PTFE for my MXUS 3kw, his site is musician stuff, so pots, ptfe, switches.
Still haven't decoded the markings yet.
Figuring its worker inmate # 545 and t6.
Its the least of my worries for now, be nice to have a temp sensor epoxied in with the wire routed out the axle.
I got some lame 14/2 probably Home Depot hook-up wire I used for the phase wires in order to get me around, can't stand not having me ebike ready to ride anywhere I'd like to go.
Haven't sourced any decent wire for the phases. I lost my California guy website link who sold me the 10g or 12g Teflon PTFE for my MXUS 3kw, his site is musician stuff, so pots, ptfe, switches.
Still haven't decoded the markings yet.
Figuring its worker inmate # 545 and t6.
ZeroEm said:
Just use some standard fine stranded silicone wire, remove the silicone, replace with heat-shrink and bobs your uncle.
For extra space, drill out the hole a bit, and use thinner hall sensor wires. I did this to cram in 10awg and extra power wires to run fans in mine.
Cheers
For extra space, drill out the hole a bit, and use thinner hall sensor wires. I did this to cram in 10awg and extra power wires to run fans in mine.
Cheers
The Toecutter
100 kW
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
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On the subject of a 3T wind 1500W Leafbike motor. It was mentioned on this forum that Leafbike does not make the 1500W in a 3T wind. I ordered a 1000W 3T wind and later was told by Leafbike that they were unable to fit the thicker 3mm phase wires through the axle of the 1000W version, so they're building me a 1500W with a 3T wind instead with the thicker phase wires.
That should be good for 71 mph @ 72V with the equivalent of a 20" bicycle wheel(a 16" moto wheel). A bit slower kV than the 1000W version, in exchange for more torque and more continuous and peak power. I'm going to run an ASI BAC4000 to it with a 20S pack. Maybe a 20S5P pack of Panasonic 21700s running it at about 4 kW peak to start, perhaps up to 10 kW peak when I'm confident I've gotten everything engineered to the point that I'm not going to destroy shit. Should be interesting.
Given my work schedule, and the fact that I can't take my vehicle apart and rebuild everything to accommodate all this performance because I use it as it is on an almost daily basis(it's my "car"), the parts are liable to sit for a long time. But once I get everything installed, this is going to be one bad mutha'.
That should be good for 71 mph @ 72V with the equivalent of a 20" bicycle wheel(a 16" moto wheel). A bit slower kV than the 1000W version, in exchange for more torque and more continuous and peak power. I'm going to run an ASI BAC4000 to it with a 20S pack. Maybe a 20S5P pack of Panasonic 21700s running it at about 4 kW peak to start, perhaps up to 10 kW peak when I'm confident I've gotten everything engineered to the point that I'm not going to destroy shit. Should be interesting.
Given my work schedule, and the fact that I can't take my vehicle apart and rebuild everything to accommodate all this performance because I use it as it is on an almost daily basis(it's my "car"), the parts are liable to sit for a long time. But once I get everything installed, this is going to be one bad mutha'.
markz
100 TW
It sucks not having an ebike you ride at a moments notice when you dont have a vehicle.
ZeroEm
1 MW
That's why i'm working on the second. Ride one, work on the other.
The Toecutter said:
Toecutter...why/how did you decide to go with a Leaf motor? Without knowing the background on your decision, I'd probably choose a motor with a 45-50mm wide stator and probably a 205mm diameter...something like the QS205 or something similar if I was going to run the power levels you mentioned. Going with the smaller diameter wheel/tire should help you with acceleration and over heating.
Just asking so I can learn...I plan to build a bike with a Direct Drive Hub motor at some point.
Thanks
