Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

[spinningmagnets]

Several posters have stated a temp sensor is free by request. Even if you change the temp sensor, its nice to have the wires already th r ought the axle from the factory...

For offroad, I almost always recommend some type of mid drive, but even that is subject to the specifics of your type of rides

 

[gobi]

Several posters have stated a temp sensor is free by request.

For offroad, I almost always recommend some type of mid drive, but even that is subject to the specifics of your type of rides

Nice, free temp sensor,

What I meant was mostly slow pavement, most of the places I would ride to will have 20 stop signs or crossing where I will have to stop. Off road will be rare.

 

[E-HP]

Several posters have stated a temp sensor is free by request.

For offroad, I almost always recommend some type of mid drive, but even that is subject to the specifics of your type of rides

Nice, free temp sensor,

What I meant was mostly slow pavement, most of the places I would ride to will have 20 stop signs or crossing where I will have to stop. Off road will be rare.

Mine came wired for a temp sensor, but the sensor wasn't compatible with anything, so I replaced it with a standard 10k ohm sensor. At least I didn't have to run a wire.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&start=2250#p1693980

I didn't specify anything, just showed up that way. My motor seems to align pretty closely to the 5T motor modeled in the Grin simulator. At the time they had a few listing for the 1500W motor with different speeds, and picked one of them (like ZeroEM mentioned). Doesn't seem like 4T though.

 

[spinningmagnets]

"At least I didn't have to run a wire"

That is definitely worth it. I can pop a hubmotor open and back together in less than an hour. I hate running wires through an axle.

I can epoxy and solder a temp sensor easily, too

 

[E-HP]

"At least I didn't have to run a wire"

That is definitely worth it. I can pop a hubmotor open and back together in less than an hour. I hate running wires through an axle.

I can epoxy and solder a temp sensor easily, too

That's for sure. I'm going to need to deal with that when I add the second sensor I bought to my old hub motor. I know it's against code to pull/add a new wire to an existing conduit run, for good reason, but I have an idea on fishing one through, so I'll take my chances.

 

[gobi]

The 4T is what I recommend, even if you travel at speeds that are "half throttle". It took years for me to get it, but...more copper cross section in windings will run cooler because of less resistance.

You make the same heat to get the same torque, independent of winding. And of course you'll need more phase amps from the controller to get the same torque from a fast wind. That's why I recommend using the slowest wind that gets you the top speed you'll actually use. That means maximum torque with minimum controller and battery requirements.

Chalo,
Makes sense, I am just happy to a bike that "moves" lol, my need for speed days are long gone, now I drive a 8k truck in the slow lane.

Leaf has a snow bike kit and I see they mention the max speed and let you pick the max speed aka slow/fast wind motor.

For fat/snow bike their default is 44mph, at 50% at makes it 22 mph, perfect for me.

https://www.leafbike.com/products/beach-snow-fat-bike-kit/26-inch-48v-52v-1500w-rear-hub-motor-beach-snow-fat-tire-bike-conversion-kit-1081.html

E-HP,
Did you measure the resistance of the factory thermistor?

 

[Bullfrog]

I suppose different riders have different user-profiles. I only use high amps for a short acceleration phase, and then I cruise at a lower speed than my max possible.

While I'm cruising along, I use fairly low amps.

My problem is my right wrist MUST turn the throttle as far as possible as often as possible...so I limit my stupidity by choosing a slower motor :lol: .

 

[spinningmagnets]

do as you wish, but...there are 3-speed throttle switches. They are simply resistors of different values to alter the 5V throttle signal to the controller.

 

[Bullfrog]

do as you wish, but...there are 3-speed throttle switches. They are simply resistors of different values to alter the 5V throttle signal to the controller.

Thanks spinningmagnets...that is a good tip for anyone :thumb: .

I have one on my bike with a 10T MAC and I really do use it and it is usually in the #2 position just so my 12 FET controller doesn't get abused as much. I have the #2 position set to ~40A and #3 set to ~58A. I set it up that way because my battery circuit breaker flips at 60A and I never wanted it to flip when I was in the middle of an intersection, plus I don't get a lot more torque at 60A than I do at 40A..."Magnetic Saturation" starts to come into play.

 

[silentbike]

Got my wheel finished

 

[neptronix]

 

[Chalo]

Got my wheel finished

That's a top shelf rim, appropriate gauge spokes, good choice of hub motor... all the right ingredients, I think. As long as it's good and tight, it should give you reliable service. Well done.

How much power do you intend to stuff into it? And how did you put in the Statorade?

 

[calab]

Halo Rim, but what model?
Panaracer Tire?

 

[silentbike]

Got my wheel finished

That's a top shelf rim, appropriate gauge spokes, good choice of hub motor... all the right ingredients, I think. As long as it's good and tight, it should give you reliable service. Well done.

How much power do you intend to stuff into it? And how did you put in the Statorade?

Thanks yes.. spokes are tight, I used 10ml statorade. I took the hub apart, no drilling.
Power is limited by what motor is capable of. I had vesc 100/250 shipped yesterday
I'm guessing 70-120A/200-300pA@ 72v, have to monitor temps and see what is reasonable
Might have to upgrade phase wires.

Halo Rim, but what model?
Panaracer Tire?

Halo SAS 36H, 26", Sapim 13-14G spokes, Polyax nipples and conical washers.
Tire Vee Speedster 26 x 2.8, Michelin 21" moto tubes

 

[silentbike]

I think I'm sold on upgrading OEM phase wires, no reason to keep them.
Scrolled this thread. I see examples of using fatter cables outside axle. Like 8 Awg outside axle?

I'm sure it helps but prefer starting from copper fill. Fattest that will work?

Edit: cowardlyduck seems to have used 10AWG wire, silicone replaced with heatshrink, interesting. Thinner hall wires are also good workaround

 

[Chalo]

I think I'm sold on upgrading OEM phase wires, no reason to keep them.
Scrolled this thread. I see examples of using fatter cables outside axle. Like 8 Awg outside axle?

I'm sure it helps but prefer starting from copper fill. Fattest that will work? Would 10 gauge silicone wires fit through axle?

Thanks

I doubt silicone jacketed wire will fit through the axle if it's bigger than the stock gauge. Plus, silicone insulation is easily damaged. You're better off looking at Teflon/PTFE jacketed wire for that job.

 

[silentbike]

I think I'm sold on upgrading OEM phase wires, no reason to keep them.
Scrolled this thread. I see examples of using fatter cables outside axle. Like 8 Awg outside axle?

I'm sure it helps but prefer starting from copper fill. Fattest that will work? Would 10 gauge silicone wires fit through axle?

Thanks

I doubt that silicone jacketed wire will fit through the axle if it's bigger than the stock gauge. Plus, silicone insulation is easily damaged. You're better off looking at Teflon/PTFE jacketed wire for that job.

Yeah, true, silicone is also too thick. Thanks for suggestion :thumb:

 

[Bullfrog]

Got my wheel finished

That's a top shelf rim, appropriate gauge spokes, good choice of hub motor... all the right ingredients, I think. As long as it's good and tight, it should give you reliable service. Well done.

How much power do you intend to stuff into it? And how did you put in the Statorade?

Thanks yes.. spokes are tight, I used 10ml statorade. I took the hub apart, no drilling.
Power is limited by what motor is capable of. I had vesc 100/250 shipped yesterday
I'm guessing 70-120A/200-300pA@ 72v, have to monitor temps and see what is reasonable
Might have to upgrade phase wires.

Halo Rim, but what model?
Panaracer Tire?

Halo SAS 36H, 26", Sapim 13-14G spokes, Polyax nipples and conical washers.
Tire Vee Speedster 26 x 2.8, Michelin 21" moto tubes

What are you using for a battery?

Most Li Ion batteries that have a BMS are limited to 60A...or less and will be the limit of the system. Just for anyone not familiar, the "system" includes the Battery, the Controller, and the Motor...any one of the three can be the limit as far as amperage/torque and voltage/speed.

 

[E-HP]

Yeah, true, silicone is also too thick. Thanks for suggestion :thumb:

Take plenty of pics when you do the upgrade. I'm running in the lower end of the ranges you mentioned, but haven't had any issues with the phase wires, so less motivated to upgrade. But, seeing some pics of a relatively easy installation could be just the motivator. :thumb:

 

[silentbike]

Got my wheel finished

That's a top shelf rim, appropriate gauge spokes, good choice of hub motor... all the right ingredients, I think. As long as it's good and tight, it should give you reliable service. Well done.

How much power do you intend to stuff into it? And how did you put in the Statorade?

Thanks yes.. spokes are tight, I used 10ml statorade. I took the hub apart, no drilling.
Power is limited by what motor is capable of. I had vesc 100/250 shipped yesterday
I'm guessing 70-120A/200-300pA@ 72v, have to monitor temps and see what is reasonable
Might have to upgrade phase wires.

Halo Rim, but what model?
Panaracer Tire?

Halo SAS 36H, 26", Sapim 13-14G spokes, Polyax nipples and conical washers.
Tire Vee Speedster 26 x 2.8, Michelin 21" moto tubes

What are you using for a battery?

Most Li Ion batteries that have a BMS are limited to 60A...or less and will be the limit of the system. Just for anyone not familiar, the "system" includes the Battery, the Controller, and the Motor...any one of the three can be the limit as far as amperage/torque and voltage/speed.

I build new battery with kWeld, copper sandwich method
For cells I use the new Samsung INR21700-40T (40T3), shipped yesterday
Very much equivelant to popular Molicel P42A in just about everything. Good cycle life, Ah, and discharge.
Bms ANT 200A,currently using it for another bike that is mid drive @55A. Great smart bms, not too big, can be easily adjusted to any cutoff you want, dozens of settings for everything. great balancing power, 4 temp sensors, etc

Config 20s8p. 72v, 200A capable. I don't use all available power, high amps is byproduct of Amp hours I need.
80-100 battery amps is probably my goal, I can always increase or decrease power if I want. I like this motor, it's relatively lightweight, pedal-able. My second leaf hub, absolutely destroys Aliexpress 9C clones which heat up quickly. :thumb:
VESC might seem overkill but it really is not. Best suited to run at 1/2 or 2/3 the power so it stays cool.

Yeah, true, silicone is also too thick. Thanks for suggestion :thumb:

Take plenty of pics when you do the upgrade. I'm running in the lower end of the ranges you mentioned, but haven't had any issues with the phase wires, so less motivated to upgrade. But, seeing some pics of a relatively easy installation could be just the motivator. :thumb:

Sure, why not. I keep you posted

 

[Bullfrog]

That's a top shelf rim, appropriate gauge spokes, good choice of hub motor... all the right ingredients, I think. As long as it's good and tight, it should give you reliable service. Well done.

How much power do you intend to stuff into it? And how did you put in the Statorade?

Thanks yes.. spokes are tight, I used 10ml statorade. I took the hub apart, no drilling.
Power is limited by what motor is capable of. I had vesc 100/250 shipped yesterday
I'm guessing 70-120A/200-300pA@ 72v, have to monitor temps and see what is reasonable
Might have to upgrade phase wires.

Halo Rim, but what model?
Panaracer Tire?

Halo SAS 36H, 26", Sapim 13-14G spokes, Polyax nipples and conical washers.
Tire Vee Speedster 26 x 2.8, Michelin 21" moto tubes

What are you using for a battery?

Most Li Ion batteries that have a BMS are limited to 60A...or less and will be the limit of the system. Just for anyone not familiar, the "system" includes the Battery, the Controller, and the Motor...any one of the three can be the limit as far as amperage/torque and voltage/speed.

I build new battery with kWeld, copper sandwich method
For cells I use the new Samsung INR21700-40T (40T3), shipped yesterday
Very much equivelant to popular Molicel P42A in just about everything. Good cycle life, Ah, and discharge.
Bms ANT 200A,currently using it for another bike that is mid drive @55A. Great smart bms, not too big, can be easily adjusted to any cutoff you want, dozens of settings for everything. great balancing power, 4 temp sensors, etc

Config 20s8p. 72v, 200A capable. I don't use all available power, high amps is byproduct of Amp hours I need.
80-100 battery amps is probably my goal, I can always increase or decrease power if I want. I like this motor, it's relatively lightweight, pedal-able. My second leaf hub, absolutely destroys Aliexpress 9C clones which heat up quickly. :thumb:
VESC might seem overkill but it really is not. Best suited to run at 1/2 or 2/3 the power so it stays cool.

NICE...sounds like you understand and have it covered :thumb: .

 

[calab]

Silicone wire has a thicker insulation jacket and as its been said is easily damaged.
There is wire out there with thinner insulation jacket on it that still holds up to spec, check ebay maybe.

 

[silentbike]

Silicone wire has a thicker insulation jacket and as its been said is easily damaged.
There is wire out there with thinner insulation jacket on it that still holds up to spec, check ebay maybe.

ordered 11Awg PTFE teflon silver plated copper wire from Aliexpress, such are difficult to find. 3.5mm OD
not a massive upgrade but improvement still
30awg for halls and bunch of pvc sleeves, heat shrinks etc to wrap it together. either 10 or 8 gauge on the outside
I think this combo should work

 

[E-HP]

ordered 11Awg PTFE teflon silver plated copper wire from Aliexpress, such are difficult to find. 3.5mm OD

Link?

 

[silentbike]

ordered 11Awg PTFE teflon silver plated copper wire from Aliexpress, such are difficult to find. 3.5mm OD

Link?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...-1;2.79;-1;-1@salePrice;EUR;search-mainSearch