The Toecutter
100 kW
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,313
Does this same 235mm spoke length apply to the 1000W Leafbike motor?
The Toecutter said:Does this same 235mm spoke length apply to the 1000W Leafbike motor?
ZeroEm said:Remember all spokes on the outside for width.
Yes, that's a problem, thought about taking a drill bit and put a little angle in hole to help but would need spokes in the right hole.by Balmorhea » Oct 18 2019 11:20pm
For full-sized wheels, yes. When in the past I have laced a large diameter hub to a 20" rim, I find that I have to lace all the spokes inside the flange (and radially) to moderate the bracing angle and keep the spokes from being kinked at the rim. That's when the spokes are only 60-something mm long.ZeroEm wrote: ↑
Oct 18 2019 12:41pm
Remember all spokes on the outside for width.
Balmorhea said:I assume the 3 pin JST plug with red/green/black wires is the throttle, because none of the other plugs seem right for the job. With the controller powered up, I'm getting 4.5V red-to-black, 5.0V green-to-black, and 0.5V green-to-red.
by The Toecutter » Jan 17 2020 10:23pm
Just to be clear, the 1000W version can reliably handle a 21s pack of Li Ion, correct? The salesperson at Leafbike recommended the 1500W version of this motor if I want to run it at more than 48V. I'm planning to get a 5T wind of the 1000W motor with cassette compatibility and a 10K NTC thermistor for the Cycle Analyst v3 and run it at 77.7V nominal using a Phaserunner set to 50A battery and 96A phase current, the entire system set up as a PAS using torque sensing.
This setup is about as close to ideal for a KMX as I can get for using on a regular basis, as it would still give me a theoretical top speed of 60 mph, which I don't imagine I'd be using often. 0-30 mph acceleration would be under 4 seconds. I'll have a 34-11T 7sp cassette in the rear with a 24/39/53T front chainring set with 152mm crankarms, so I'll have a nice usable speed range whether the motor is on or off. Cruising speeds of up to 45 mph at 120 cadence will be possible, with brief sprints to 60 mph possible with the motor on.
I'm going to need some torque arms for this... Probably will have to make them.
it would still give me a theoretical top speed of 60 mph
ZeroEm said:If you are getting the motor from leafbike, get ready to change the thermistor to a 10K.
I like your setup, currently my front chainrings 30/39/50 but is to low for what I want at my cadence.
Did you buy your ring set or build it?
spinningmagnets said:Above 40-MPH, the aerodynamics will be a key issue. I would also recommend moped rims and tires at any speed over 40-MPH
They always put the 100k in but at least the wire is run thru, Leafbike did not even add one to the front motor.by The Toecutter » Jan 18 2020 2:21pm
I mention this because I'd like to avoid having to take the motor apart at all for the near term future, at least until it is time to install some ferrofluid. I plan to run my 1000W version of the motor at 3.5-4 kW peak starting out, and will increase that later on with modification(and a more powerful FOC controller than a PhaseRunner when finances permit).
Have been searching for a set that would come close to what I want but no luck, Guess I will do what you did.The 24/39/53T crankset was built out of a Suntour XCT Jr. with 152mm crankarms. It originally had a 22/32/44T cogset. I'm using a road bike derailleur slightly passed the very outer limits of its spec(26T capacity is its rating) and had to install a bolt-on front derailleur post extension. I'm hoping I will be able to make it work with a 115mm bottom bracket because the Sempu torque sensing bottom brackets don't come in the 117mm width that works with my current crankset and front derailleur.
It's been turned into a velomobile. I built a shell for it and have a more efficient one almost finished. Smooth as silk at 50+ mph downhill, and I don't even have a motor in it yet. Currently using Velocity USA double-walled 20" BMX rims up front with Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard 1.5" tires and a double-walled heavy duty Weinmann 26" rim in the rear with Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour 26"x1.5" tire in the rear. I wouldn't count on this setup being safe cruising at 40+ mph, but it still feels very stable at over 50 mph.
In the long term, I'd like to go to 16" moped rims on all three wheels with Mitas MC2 low rolling resistance tires. That may be for the build after this one, as I have a custom frame with integrated roll cage drawn up in a notebook... and I'm probably going to want more than 60 mph with that... maybe even triple digits, which will require a different electric drive setup altogether than what I'm about to do to my KMX. A Leafbike with a 3T wind may fit the specs for that... or I may even try to make my own motor with greatly reduced weight and higher efficiency and have it run the front wheels(one in each), with the pedal drivetrain powering the rear... since no one sells the type of motor I really want(looking for in-wheel hub motor with 93-95%+ efficiency and under 7 lbs. I have an electrical engineering degree and a friend with a shop full of tools, so the possibility of making such is not out of the question).
spinningmagnets said:One of the nice things about brushless motors is that they are very tolerant of a wide range of voltages. As far as how many amps to use, it all depends on how often you'll be using high amps. I feel the ideal temp is around 140F, but it is widely regarded to keep the motor safe by not exceeding 93C / 200F.
Above that, several things might happen. The magnets can start to be de-magnetized. The lacquer insulation on the motor phase wires can degrade and a short can occur. A Hall sensor might fail (there are three of them), solder might melt.
If you rarely use high amps (on acceleration?) then you can run the amps a little higher. If you have a lot of hills, the motor will be frequently running warm, so you would need to run the amps a little lower. Get a temp sensor and put it on the stator-coils, start with average amps, and over the next few weeks, slowly raise the amps until the motor occasionally reaches the temps that you feel are the max safe temp.
neptronix said:If you order the default winding, the 4T..
For a 26" wheel, you will want a controller and battery capable of pushing 60 amps continuous during acceleration or hill climbing in order to hit the top speed of the motor and have decent torque.
60A x 48V = 2880W peak.
Your continuous wattage at 100% speed will be about 2000W, or approx. 41A continuous.
You'll want nothing smaller than a 12FET 4011, or preferably 3077 FET controller in order to do this. I run an 18FET 4011 controller myself with this winding, because i wanted large amounts of thermal overhead, as i run about 90-100 amps. Even the 12FET 3077 ( lowest resistance FET type is the 3077 ) would get hot on 80A.
For this winding, i would use either a RC Lipo type pack above 20AH or A123 pack around 20AH as well in order to deliver the needed current. 20C Lipo would work.
If you want something other than the two above chemistries, you're going to need 40-60AH worth most likely, if you're dealing with a 2C-5C chemistry. 1C is out of the question unless you can figure out how to jam 50-60AH into the triangle.
The 4T is an amp guzzler, not a volt guzzler..
by The Toecutter » Jan 22 2020 10:33am
My understanding from reading this thread is that out the box, the 1,500W version of the Leafbike motor is good for 4,000W peak for 20-30 seconds at a time, and at higher voltages(~72V), closer to 2,000W continuous, with zero modification. Would you agree with this assessment?spinningmagnets wrote: ↑Jan 22 2020 7:32am
One of the nice things about brushless motors is that they are very tolerant of a wide range of voltages. As far as how many amps to use, it all depends on how often you'll be using high amps. I feel the ideal temp is around 140F, but it is widely regarded to keep the motor safe by not exceeding 93C / 200F.
Above that, several things might happen. The magnets can start to be de-magnetized. The lacquer insulation on the motor phase wires can degrade and a short can occur. A Hall sensor might fail (there are three of them), solder might melt.
If you rarely use high amps (on acceleration?) then you can run the amps a little higher. If you have a lot of hills, the motor will be frequently running warm, so you would need to run the amps a little lower. Get a temp sensor and put it on the stator-coils, start with average amps, and over the next few weeks, slowly raise the amps until the motor occasionally reaches the temps that you feel are the max safe temp.