Lebowski's motor controller IC, schematic & setup, new v2.A1

[zombiess]

Are the control loop parameters setting PID loops or are they different? If so can the 3rd term be set to 0?

Any chance of getting a block diagram?

 

[izeman]

maybe someone can help. i got the controller from animalector today. he already tested it and hardware works. my motor is a mac 10t geared hub.
so i connected the battery and recalibrated current sensors and motor inductance, as well as throttle.
i prepared everything for hall calibration as described in the manual. reconnected the battery and drive_0 led lights up shortely. then drive_1 and then drive_2 and it tries to run the motor (little whining noise from the motor). if i give a little throttle the whining buzz gets a higher tone, then drive_3 blinks and goes back to drive_2. that's it. the motor is not turning at all.
any idea what i did wrong? any info you need to analyse?
to be honest i only understood about 20% in the manual. too many tech speach there. i hope i get this all sorted out.
sorry if the questions sound dumb, but i'm really lost

 

[Lebowski]

The MAC is a motor with a clutch right, so it only spins one way ? From your description I have the feeling the (internals) of the MAC are spinning,
but in the reverse direction. This means the clutch is not engaged and the outer shell where the spokes attach stays at standstill.

Yep, it should go from drive_0 (looking to see motor is standing still and no throttle) to drive_1 (recovery, where it will get in sync with
a spinning or standing still motor) to drive_2 (which is the very low rpm drive mode, typically here it starts the motor when in sensorless
-- ps yes during hall calibration its in sensorless). When you give some throttle, the whining buzz gets higher meaning the internals of the
motor accelerate. When the speed gets high enough (this is a setting somewhere) it will go to drive_3... and back to drive_2 again if
the motor speed drops again.

So, based on your short description it all sounds good, just swap out 2 of the 3 motor wires to change the default direction...

 

[izeman]

The MAC is a motor with a clutch right, so it only spins one way ? From your description I have the feeling the (internals) of the MAC are spinning,
but in the reverse direction. This means the clutch is not engaged and the outer shell where the spokes attach stays at standstill.

Yep, it should go from drive_0 (looking to see motor is standing still and no throttle) to drive_1 (recovery, where it will get in sync with
a spinning or standing still motor) to drive_2 (which is the very low rpm drive mode, typically here it starts the motor when in sensorless
-- ps yes during hall calibration its in sensorless). When you give some throttle, the whining buzz gets higher meaning the internals of the
motor accelerate. When the speed gets high enough (this is a setting somewhere) it will go to drive_3... and back to drive_2 again if
the motor speed drops again.

So, based on your short description it all sounds good, just swap out 2 of the 3 motor wires to change the default direction...

thanks for your help. even though i'm afraid the motor is not running. but i will test with the bare motor (no clutch, no gears, no case) to see what's going on.
one thing that puzzles me is, that the motor wants to start turning as soon as i apply power. isn't it supposed to stay in drive_0 and only after applying throttle go to drive_[123]? the throttle was calibrated slightly opened (1.2v) vs completely closed (0.8v).

 

[Lebowski]

Typically drive_0 is only activated once when you power on the controller, and drive_1 only occurs after an error event. But normally it should hop immediately after power on to drive_2 and then,
dependent on motor erpm, only be in either drive_2 or drive_3... So, after power on it hops to drive_2 with the motor staying still. then when you apply throttle it will spin the motor, and go to drive_3.

To see the response to the throttle you can go into the setup menu and in the throttle menu perform a throttle test (where it scrolls the lines and has a moving '1', '2' and 'X').

What you can also do is post the HEX dump of the settings (eeprom menu, option b) so I can have a look.

 

[izeman]

ok. so behaviour is ok. good to know. 0 flashes, 1 flashes, and then drive_2 stays lit. i turn the throttle, whining sound becomes higher and drive_3 lits shortly. then i goes back to 2. but i'm a bit afraid to give more throttle. doing so with the cheap infineon controllers (and wrong phase/hall combination) leads to immediate FET destruction. and i don't want to risk that. there are sooo many parameters that i don't understand and that could/may be wrong that i want to better be safe than sorry.
i will post the hex file when back home. thanks for the offer to check it!
edit: btw: the throttle response is as expected. it is off and goes to full throttle signal when applied. maybe the buzzing sound is because of the hall calibration started and it's not really trying to turn the motor? i will try with throttle disconnected to be sure.

 

[Lebowski]

ok. so behaviour is ok. good to know. 0 flashes, 1 flashes, and then drive_2 stays lit. i turn the throttle, whining sound becomes higher and drive_3 lits shortly. then i goes back to 2. but i'm a bit afraid to give more throttle. doing so with the cheap infineon controllers (and wrong phase/hall combination) leads to immediate FET destruction. and i don't want to risk that. there are sooo many parameters that i don't understand and that could/may be wrong that i want to better be safe than sorry.
i will post the hex file when back home. thanks for the offer to check it!
edit: btw: the throttle response is as expected. it is off and goes to full throttle signal when applied. maybe the buzzing sound is because of the hall calibration started and it's not really trying to turn the motor? i will try with throttle disconnected to be sure.

It makes a very faint buzzing noise independent of whether the motor turns or not, this is due to the noise shapers and
control loops (It doesn't use bog-standard control loops but higher order noise shapers and things like that...)
The amount of buzzing can be reduced by changing control loop parameters, but it is so faint...

When you keep the rpm up it should stay in drive_3, does it do that ? Or do you just shortly blip the throttle, so does
the motor only have a short duration erpm increase ?

 

[izeman]

When you keep the rpm up it should stay in drive_3, does it do that ? Or do you just shortly blip the throttle, so does
the motor only have a short duration erpm increase ?

i can't see any rpm (yet). i only hear the buzzing (faint) noise that gets louder and higher pitched as i turn the throttle. i just don't have the balls to go WOT as i fear to destroy something. so i can't guarantee for 100%, but i think that i just release the throttle as soon as drive_3 (w/o any noticeable motor turn) led lits.
i guess it will be more productive to do some more bench testing. all i do now is rough guessing and stealing your time. i'll test in some hours.

 

[izeman]

i tested now two things: motor only on the bench (like a direct drive). once with hall sensors, and once without.
setting of "hf tone" made the motor turn SOMETIMES a bit. best i could achieve was ONE HALF TURN (180°). and speed was super slow. the next time i hit the throttle it didn't move at all, then it move some degrees in the other direction.
with sensors calibration mode it didn't move at all. only tone got higher pitch.

this is the hex file:

0x03C9	0x0048	0x0618	0x000C	0x0004	0x0002	0x7FBC	0x0126
0x0000	0x004A	0x8000	0x0170	0x00B8	0x02BB	0x03F8	0x03F2
0x03F3	0xB37B	0xAAAE	0xA1DD	0x0258	0x0214	0x002D	0x029A
0x000C	0xFFEC	0x0309	0x0199	0x0614	0x0851	0xFFFF	0xFFFF
0xFFFF	0x0100	0x0269	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0x05C2	0x0024	0x03D6
0x007A	0x08CC	0x0258	0x0064	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0xFFFF
0x0000	0x4CCD	0x000C	0x0000	0x00F0	0xFFFF	0xB333	0xFFF4
0x0000	0xFF10	0x0000	0x07AE	0x0018	0x0000	0x01E0	0xFFFF
0xF852	0xFFE8	0x0000	0xFE20	0x0003	0x0000	0x0078	0x0000
0x0000	0xFFFD	0x0000	0xFF88	0x0000	0x0000	0x003C	0x0003
0x0000	0x0000	0x0000	0xFFC4	0xFFFD	0x0000	0x0000	0x0000
0x00F0	0x000C	0x0000	0x0000	0x0000	0xFF10	0xFFF4	0x0000
0x0000	0x0000	0x2262	0x1400	0x09D5	0x05DC	0x02E1	0x0030
0x00D0	0x0287	0x0122	0x0007	0x00D8	0x0042	0x0010	0x0E10
0x0000	0x03E8	0x00C8	0x57FA	0x03B6	0x6000	0x0093	0x0123
0xFF01	0xAC3F	0x013F	0xD63F	0x563D	0x813F	0x2A3F	0xFF00
0xFFFF	0xC519	0x764B	0x5482	0x41B3	0x35C3	0x2D7A	0x276B
0x22C9	0x1F1E	0x1C28	0x19B5	0x17A6	0x15E6	0x1463	0x1312
0x11EB	0x10E4	0x0FFB	0x0F28	0x0E6B	0x0DC0	0x0D23	0x0C94
0x0C10	0x0B97	0x0B27	0x0ABF	0x0A5F	0x0A05	0x09B1	0x0962
*

lebowski: maybe you could have a look at it. that would be very much appreciated. thanks!

 

[Lebowski]

Some things I noticed... first off do not use the HF mode, try sensorless first. when calibrating halls it will start in sensorless, so first try to get that working on its own.

a) PWM frequency: 25kHz
b) deadtime: 1499ns
c) dutycycle testsignal: 5461%
d) toggle high side polarity, now active HIGH
e) toggle low side polarity, now active HIGH
f) test PWM signals

g) autocomplete

h) loop sample frequency: 45.04 kHz

z) return to main menu

------>

Here: the pwm frequency is pretty high, I would reduce to 20 kHz. Also I would change deadtime down to about 600 nsec, but check with Animalector that the gate drive can handle this.
Run the autocomplete, this will change the loop sample frequency.

a) current sensor transimpedance: 20.00 mV/A
b) maximum motor phase current: 14.9 A
c) maximum battery current, motor use: 9.9 A
d) maximum battery current, regen: 1.2 A

e) autocomplete

f) HF current, base level (HF only): 0.7 A
g) HF current, proportional factor (HF only): 1.0000
h) maximum phase current in drive 2 (HF only): 7.0 A
i) phase current for forcing motor position: 2.9 A
j) maximum shutdown error current, fixed: 3.7 A
k) maximum shutdown error current, proportional: 1.8 A
l) applied braking current (phase) on direction change: 0.0 A
m) offset filtering (phase) current limit: 0.0 A

z) return to main menu

------>

It looks like you have 100A current sensors. When you increase the motor current to a higher level don;t forget to autocomplete as this will change j and k, the error current levels. For 100A sensors the error current levels are very low, some noise on the sensor outputs may trip the error current detection. Independent of the max phase current, set j and k each to about at least 10A.

a) calibrate throttle 1
b) calibrate throttle 2
c) polynomial coefficients throttle 1 (x, x^2, x^3): 0.0998, 0.3798, 0.5197
d) polynomial coefficients throttle 2 (x, x^2, x^3): -0.0002, -0.0002, -0.0002
e) use analog throttle 1: YES
f) use analog throttle 2: NO
   receive throttle over CAN: NO
g) TX throttle over CAN: YES
h) test throttle

z) return to main menu

------>

Only thing here, I would switch off option g as I think you;re not using a second slave controller.

a) erpm limit, forward: 39.95 k-erpm
b) erpm limit, reverse: 2.96 k-erpm
c) accept direction change below: 82 erpm
d) transition erpm drive 2 -> 3: 494 erpm
e) transition erpm drive 3 -> 2: 164 erpm

z) return to main menu

------>

this one looks good. But, if you change the sampling frequency in the PWM menu, these numbers will change automatically so you may need to set them to the correct values again.

a) restore calibration, autocomplete
b) perform offset measurement
   sensor a: -20.0 mV
   sensor b: -35.0 mV
   sensor c: -32.5 mV
c) perform gain measurement
   channel a: 95.08 %
   channel b: 99.98 %
   channel c: 105.43 %
d) online gain calibration update rate: 0.302 %

z) return to main menu

------>

I would reset, and only do an offset measurement. The gain measurement I would not do when not using HF (which you better not use) . I myself also never do the offset calibration...

a) autocomplete

b) throttle current filter -3dB freq: 100 Hz
c) error current 50% step response time: 5.016 msec
d) induction position filter 45 degree delay speed: 2.00 k-erpm
e) drive 2 speed filter 50% step response time: 208.1 msec

z) return to main menu

------>

this one looks good. just remember, when the loop frequency is changed in the PWM menu these numbers will change. So best is to autocomplete again.

a) autocomplete

b) FOC measurement current: 7.4 A
c) FOC measurement erpm: 61.85 k-erpm
d) perform impedance measurement

 measured inductance: 157.3 uH

z) return to main menu

------>

looks good, but must be re-done when changing the loop frequency in the PWM menu.

a) autocomplete

  phase control loop, recovery
b) 1st order: 0
c) 2nd order: 120.0000
d) 3rd order: 3.0000
  amplitude control loop, recovery
e) 1st order: 240
f) 2nd order: 12.0000
g) 3rd order: 0.0000
h) pulse when current drops below: 0.3 A
i) pulse width: 17 usec
j) pulse % for exit: 95
k) pulse % filter 50% step response time: 30.3 msec
l) speed filter 50% step response time: 7.0 msec
m) try restart for: 499 msec
n) check for spinning motor, drive_0: enabled
o) check for throttle closed, drive_0: enabled
  exit from startup to recovery at current
p) current to check: total current
q) fixed part: 1.4 A
r) proportional to throttle current, factor: 150 %
s) current filter 50% step response time: 5.0 msec

z) return to main menu

------>

looks kinda OK, looks like it was autocompleted and not changed. Note that some values depend on the PWM frequency, some on the loop frequency and some on the max phase current. So, re-autocomplete when you change any of those values. One thing here: option q is too low especially for 100 A sensors. If you would have had like 80A phase current or so option q would have been a much higher (realistic) value.
Similarly option h seems a tad low, 3A would be better (but only if the error currents j and k from the current menu are also set higher)...

The rest of the menus look OK. Both hall calibration and online parameter save are enabled, so it is set up ready for hall calibration... But first switch it to sensorless mode and get the motor spinning.

 

[izeman]

Some things I noticed... first off do not use the HF mode, try sensorless first.

you mean: start in

0) mode: Toneless, with recovery

just to be sure. i will start testing again. thanks!

 

[izeman]

success. it works in sensorless mode. so there must be something wrong with the hall sensors (setup).

this is the working (sensorless) config right now:

0x03C9	0x0048	0x0618	0x000C	0x0004	0x0002	0x7FBC	0x0126
0x0000	0x004A	0x8000	0x03D6	0x03D6	0x02BB	0x03F5	0x03EF
0x03F0	0xAAAA	0xAAAA	0xAAAA	0x02EE	0x0267	0x001E	0x0301
0x000A	0xF7CE	0x0309	0x0199	0x0614	0x0851	0xFFFF	0xFFFF
0xFFFF	0x0100	0x0269	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0x05C2	0x03D6	0x03D6
0x007A	0x08CC	0x0258	0x0064	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0xFFFF
0x0000	0x4CCD	0x000C	0x0000	0x00F0	0xFFFF	0xB333	0xFFF4
0x0000	0xFF10	0x0000	0x07AE	0x0018	0x0000	0x01E0	0xFFFF
0xF852	0xFFE8	0x0000	0xFE20	0x0003	0x0000	0x0078	0x0000
0x0000	0xFFFD	0x0000	0xFF88	0x0000	0x0000	0x003C	0x0003
0x0000	0x0000	0x0000	0xFFC4	0xFFFD	0x0000	0x0000	0x0000
0x00F0	0x000C	0x0000	0x0000	0x0000	0xFF10	0xFFF4	0x0000
0x0000	0x0000	0x2262	0x1400	0x09D5	0x05DC	0x02E1	0x0038
0x00F0	0x02EB	0x014F	0x0008	0x00D8	0x0042	0x0010	0x0E10
0x0000	0x03E8	0x00C8	0x4C31	0x03B6	0x6000	0x0126	0x0150
0xFF01	0xAC3F	0x013F	0xD63F	0x563D	0x813F	0x2A3F	0xFF00
0xFFFF	0xC519	0x764B	0x5482	0x41B3	0x35C3	0x2D7A	0x276B
0x22C9	0x1F1E	0x1C28	0x19B5	0x17A6	0x15E6	0x1463	0x1312
0x11EB	0x10E4	0x0FFB	0x0F28	0x0E6B	0x0DC0	0x0D23	0x0C94
0x0C10	0x0B97	0x0B27	0x0ABF	0x0A5F	0x0A05	0x09B1	0x0962
*

 

[Lebowski]

As sensorrless works, to calibrate halls:

-put it in hall mode
-turn on the hall calibration in the hall sensor menu
-online parameter save must be turned on in the eeprom menu.

After you changed these settings, save and reboot in motor mode. Give it throttle till controller is in drive 3 with motor running at a few 1000 erpm. Let it run for a few sevonds, then while motor runs, press setup. This is it, halls should be calibrated. In setup you can now have a look at the hall calibration results. In the hall menu the calibration will automatically have been turned off.

 

[izeman]

i got it working now. great! is it correct that hall calibration needs several throttle activation until it finds a working combination? looks to me like that?!
i save the combination now. now i will start tuning, and maybe understand the other setup options.
i guess it runs quite slowly. but maybe i'm fooled.
and sometimes it just stops, goes to drive_0 or 1 and then 2 again. so it seems there is some error condition.
i will make final install (new wires and stuff) now that i know it's working at all, and then do continue with testing.
thanks lebowski for the excellent support!!! (and the great design as well of course!)

 

[izeman]

i guess those values are not suitable for a high rpm mac motor?

a) erpm limit, forward: 34.60 k-erpm
b) erpm limit, reverse: 2.57 k-erpm
c) accept direction change below: 71 erpm
d) transition erpm drive 2 -> 3: 428 erpm
e) transition erpm drive 3 -> 2: 142 erpm

let's say the motor is 5:1 500rpm and 16pole, so this is 2500 * 16 = 40k(e)rpm. correct?
are the transitions good values for a geared hub? shouldn't the be higher as well?

 

[Lebowski]

i got it working now. great! is it correct that hall calibration needs several throttle activation until it finds a working combination? looks to me like that?!
i save the combination now. now i will start tuning, and maybe understand the other setup options.
i guess it runs quite slowly. but maybe i'm fooled.
and sometimes it just stops, goes to drive_0 or 1 and then 2 again. so it seems there is some error condition.
i will make final install (new wires and stuff) now that i know it's working at all, and then do continue with testing.
thanks lebowski for the excellent support!!! (and the great design as well of course!)

For hall calibration you just give constant throttle to spin up the motor and keep it in drive_3. While in drive_3, after a few seconds press the setup button to store the results, that's it.

About running slowly, I saw your reverse speed is set much lower than the forward speed, so are you sure you are in forward ?

It should never just stop and go to drive_0 or drive_1. Are you sure the power doesn't get interrupted ? If an error condition occurs it will first go to drive_1 to try
to recover, if this fails after 0.5 seconds it will go to drive_0. If it goes directly from drive_2 or _3 to drive_0, this can only happen with a reset or a momentary power outage.

 

[Lebowski]

i guess those values are not suitable for a high rpm mac motor?

a) erpm limit, forward: 34.60 k-erpm
b) erpm limit, reverse: 2.57 k-erpm
c) accept direction change below: 71 erpm
d) transition erpm drive 2 -> 3: 428 erpm
e) transition erpm drive 3 -> 2: 142 erpm

let's say the motor is 5:1 500rpm and 16pole, so this is 2500 * 16 = 40k(e)rpm. correct?
are the transitions good values for a geared hub? shouldn't the be higher as well?

if you have 16 magnet poles then it is 2500*8 = 20 kerpm....

I typically have c at 150, d around 700 and e around 300 ... But if you notice it jumping around between drive 2 and 3 too much you can increase the numbers. They should be relatively low though.

 

[izeman]

i guess those values are not suitable for a high rpm mac motor?

a) erpm limit, forward: 34.60 k-erpm
b) erpm limit, reverse: 2.57 k-erpm
c) accept direction change below: 71 erpm
d) transition erpm drive 2 -> 3: 428 erpm
e) transition erpm drive 3 -> 2: 142 erpm

let's say the motor is 5:1 500rpm and 16pole, so this is 2500 * 16 = 40k(e)rpm. correct?
are the transitions good values for a geared hub? shouldn't the be higher as well?

if you have 16 magnet poles then it is 2500*8 = 20 kerpm....

I typically have c at 150, d around 700 and e around 300 ... But if you notice it jumping around between drive 2 and 3 too much you can increase the numbers. They should be relatively low though.

so it's pole pairs multiplied by rpm? ok. then 35k is more than enough. i will set the transition erpm as you proposed. "c" is not relevant in my case.

For hall calibration you just give constant throttle to spin up the motor and keep it in drive_3. While in drive_3, after a few seconds press the setup button to store the results, that's it.

sorry to repeat that again. what do i do if it does NOT turn? keep applying throttle and wait? and for how long? because this is what happens sometimes. nothing. it won't turn. and after trying some more times (releasing throttle, moving the stator a bit, applying throttle (some seconds), releasing,..) it starts turning. then i click SETUP and all leds flash and it's saved. when i reconnect the battery it starts turning immediately.

About running slowly, I saw your reverse speed is set much lower than the forward speed, so are you sure you are in forward ?

could very well be didn't think about that. i'll check!

It should never just stop and go to drive_0 or drive_1. Are you sure the power doesn't get interrupted ? If an error condition occurs it will first go to drive_1 to try
to recover, if this fails after 0.5 seconds it will go to drive_0. If it goes directly from drive_2 or _3 to drive_0, this can only happen with a reset or a momentary power outage.

it doesn't really STOP. it's more like a short hick-up. a short interruption. it isn't even long enough to stop the rotor. not nearly. those drive leds are very close together and light up only very shortly. so i will maybe take a video to better observe what happens.

 

[Lebowski]

Dependent on the settings it can happen that when you're in sensorless that the motor won't start, even when you apply more and more throttle. What's happening with sensorless at standstill is that the controller doesn't know at what phase the motor is. A very small movement will be enough to get it going, but sometimes (expecially with a motor that has heavy cogging) not even a small movement is there. To get around this the controller will try to 'wiggle' the motor, to loosen it up a bit. In the miscellaneous menu there are two settings, wiggle amplitude and wiggle rate. The amplitude stays how big the wiggle is, the wiggle rate how fast it wiggles. So, in your case it needs some experimenting with the numbers there. I would say for wiggle amplitude, between 15 and about 60 degrees is the reasonable range. Wiggle rate, try between 2 and 20 Hz.
These wiggle settings are purely for sensorless start, once you have the halls calibrated and running fine you don't need this anymore (wiggle settings are not used in hall mode).

The short hick-up, this sounds like it trips the error current and goes back to drive_1 for recovery. Recovery is very fast, so a hick-up is a good term for this.
If it hickups while in drive_2, change settings p, q, r, and s in the recovery menu. P and R are probably fine, so increase the current q (upto about 20% of the current sensor capability) or increase the filter time s .

If it happens in drive_3, in the current menu j and k can be increase upto about 15% of the current sensor capability. But if these are quite high already, the next thing would be to increase the error current filtering (option c in the filtering menu).

Error detection is based on the motor phase currents not being what the controller expects. The process is as follows: first the currents are measured and the error current is calculated. This is however a noisy signal with lots of spikes. So, to suppress the spikes the calculated error current is first filtered (with the filter settings mentioned above). After filtering the result is compared to the error current settings. When too high the controller realizes something is wrong and it goes to drive_1, recovery. In the typical case though nothing is really wrong, the noisy calculated signal is just too noisy. So you need to filter a bit stronger or set the limits a bit higher.
Its a balancing act though, if you filter too strong a proper error event will be filtered away. Same if the limits are set too high, then an error event will not be detected... So, the settings must be high enough such that the motor runs solid and without hickups under all conditions, but not too high not to detect a proper error event anymore...

 

[izeman]

makes sense, and i guess with your help i can get this running nicely.
one more question: from those xie change controllers there is this unwritten rule to set max phase current to 2.5-3x max battery current to make the motor run nicely. is this a rule for this kind of controllers only, or a general rule? or: does this rule of thumb apply to your controller type as well?
eg. i have 50v 45a battery limit set. and i would now set phase current to 100a. is this a good idea? or do i just have to play around with the current settings and test when overheating occurs?

 

[Lebowski]

makes sense, and i guess with your help i can get this running nicely.
one more question: from those xie change controllers there is this unwritten rule to set max phase current to 2.5-3x max battery current to make the motor run nicely. is this a rule for this kind of controllers only, or a general rule? or: does this rule of thumb apply to your controller type as well?
eg. i have 50v 45a battery limit set. and i would now set phase current to 100a. is this a good idea? or do i just have to play around with the current settings and test when overheating occurs?

Nope, you can have any phase current you want (independent of battery current) as long as its within the limits of the
current sensors. I regularly run my test setup with 20A phase current and 2.5A battery current...

 

[Lebowski]

success. it works in sensorless mode. so there must be something wrong with the hall sensors (setup).

this is the working (sensorless) config right now:

0x03C9	0x0048	0x0618	0x000C	0x0004	0x0002	0x7FBC	0x0126
0x0000	0x004A	0x8000	0x03D6	0x03D6	0x02BB	0x03F5	0x03EF
0x03F0	0xAAAA	0xAAAA	0xAAAA	0x02EE	0x0267	0x001E	0x0301
0x000A	0xF7CE	0x0309	0x0199	0x0614	0x0851	0xFFFF	0xFFFF
0xFFFF	0x0100	0x0269	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0x05C2	0x03D6	0x03D6
0x007A	0x08CC	0x0258	0x0064	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0xFFFF	0xFFFF
0x0000	0x4CCD	0x000C	0x0000	0x00F0	0xFFFF	0xB333	0xFFF4
0x0000	0xFF10	0x0000	0x07AE	0x0018	0x0000	0x01E0	0xFFFF
0xF852	0xFFE8	0x0000	0xFE20	0x0003	0x0000	0x0078	0x0000
0x0000	0xFFFD	0x0000	0xFF88	0x0000	0x0000	0x003C	0x0003
0x0000	0x0000	0x0000	0xFFC4	0xFFFD	0x0000	0x0000	0x0000
0x00F0	0x000C	0x0000	0x0000	0x0000	0xFF10	0xFFF4	0x0000
0x0000	0x0000	0x2262	0x1400	0x09D5	0x05DC	0x02E1	0x0038
0x00F0	0x02EB	0x014F	0x0008	0x00D8	0x0042	0x0010	0x0E10
0x0000	0x03E8	0x00C8	0x4C31	0x03B6	0x6000	0x0126	0x0150
0xFF01	0xAC3F	0x013F	0xD63F	0x563D	0x813F	0x2A3F	0xFF00
0xFFFF	0xC519	0x764B	0x5482	0x41B3	0x35C3	0x2D7A	0x276B
0x22C9	0x1F1E	0x1C28	0x19B5	0x17A6	0x15E6	0x1463	0x1312
0x11EB	0x10E4	0x0FFB	0x0F28	0x0E6B	0x0DC0	0x0D23	0x0C94
0x0C10	0x0B97	0x0B27	0x0ABF	0x0A5F	0x0A05	0x09B1	0x0962
*

I had a look, all looks OK except I would reduce in the recovery menu

h) pulse when current drops below: 9.9 A

10A seems a bit high, does 3A also work ?

 

[izeman]

How do you test these hex values? Do you upload these to one of your test cpu boards and look at it with the terminal program? Or do you have some software emulation? I sometimes have and idea to tune a value or want to check it, but can't w/o connecting to the controller.
Is there another way to do it?

 

[Lebowski]

the hex dump contains all the settings and variables of the controller IC. Option B in the ROM menu gives you the hexdump, option C allows you to load a hex dump.

So, what I do is I save your hex to a file. Then in my development controller I select option C after which in my terminal program I select "send file over RS232" to send your hex file. After this all settings are the same as in your controller IC.

You can do this yourself. When you have a setup that runs good you can dump the hex with option B and save it in a file. After experimenting with settings you can always load your saved hex file that you know is good, back with option C.

I thinl Termite does not allow to send files over RS232, I think the name of the one that works is Realterm. It's the one with the yellow letter on the black background, as shown in Arlo1's and Animalectors videos.

Making changes to the settings can only be done with the chip in setup mode. I can imagine you could write a flashy GUI to do the setup, generate a hex which you then load in the controller IC, but for me this would be way to much work...

 

[izeman]

ok. so as expected it only works by writing to an actual controller. would be cool to have some kind of offline tool, but i guess once you have it running there is no need to play with it any more anyway.