Left side crank freewheel jackshaft

veloman

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I currently have all the parts to do this. I simply threaded one of those $7.50 freewheels onto a SBP crank arm, in the opposite direction. My motor will be mounted just above the BB, driving the left side crank freewheel. From there, I will run a 24 tooth sprocket on the freewheel, to anything between a 39 and 56 tooth sprocket on the rear wheel, using Recumpence's disc brake adapter. This design leaves the entire bike drivetrain as-is, and completely separates the two. (I am using a roller bearing one-way clutch for my motor sprocket. (Scooter parts)).

This seems to be the easiest and most problem free way to reduce the motor rpms. The only thing I want to improve on is getting a higher quality freewheel which won't make so much noise at 600rpms. I'm about to order one of those ACS left side freewheels, hoping they are a bit higher quality???

Is there any way to take a normal White Industries freewheel and screw it on backwards? This is where the cheap freewheel works great - it's symmetrical with nothing but threads, so it can thread on either side.

I was even thinking of putting 2 bike chain sprockets on the freewheel if possible, and using a front derailer to make it a 2 speed, with a chain tensioner dealing with the chain. That would be nearly the holy grail.... Completely independent 2 speed reduction drive, requiring no fancy machining, and keeping the weight centered, low, and the motor easily protected (possibly covered for stealthness). The thing is I need a super quiet freewheel (or, even better, just a simple bearing to hold my sprockets on the crank). Pedaling the cranks would never put torque through the left side due to the extremely lower gear compared to the bike gears.

What ya think? :D

Wait! What if I just remove the paws from the WI freewheel????? Then it can spin freely in either direction, acting as a simple bearing. YES! This would work, right?
 
veloman said:
Wait! What if I just remove the paws from the WI freewheel????? Then it can spin freely in either direction, acting as a simple bearing. YES! This would work, right?
Sans pawls.... Yes.

See:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=273704#p273704
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=275004#p275004
 
So...did this work? Can you let me know as I'm trying an astro 3220 system and the drivetrain is not straightforward:)
 
I really like the idea of also being able to use a 22/44 chainring as a potential gear shifting device. Do you think this will work, Miles? (with necessary chain retention & idling)

What I can't get my head around is how the freewheel mounts onto the RHS trials crank (ok, that works), but then the chainring somehow mounts to the freewheel body? Or have I got it wrong somewhere?

Essentially I just need to run it from the 9KW drive, via the 22T cog, which is linked to the 44T cog, to the back wheel. The gearing is intentional

Also - do you think the interconnecting bolts between the 22/44t ring will be strong enough to take all the shearing force?

thanks

Tom
 
I would set it up as a single speed first... :)

You need to make an adaptor to bolt between the teeth of whatever freewheel you're using and the chainring mounting holes.

ACS Crossfire would be a good freewheel to use.

What BCD is the chainring mount?

I doubt if the chainring bolts will be the weakest link.....

You could use a 22t freewheel as the drive to the second stage and make an adaptor to mount a 44t chainring to its outer casing.....
 
Miles said:
I would set it up as a single speed first... :)

You need to make an adaptor to bolt between the teeth of whatever freewheel you're using and the chainring mounting holes.

ACS Crossfire would be a good freewheel to use.

What BCD is the chainring mount?

I doubt if the chainring bolts will be the weakest link.....

You could use a 22t freewheel as the drive to the second stage and make an adaptor to mount a 44t chainring to its outer casing.....

Ahhh, level of excitement *slightly* down after "you will need to make"...
There's no straightforward solution I guess. Maybe it's worth staying with the direct drive - via - pulleys - and - long - chain idea. Just have to find a pulley/idler that can handle the drive load
 
Wow its been a while since I posted this, lots has happened since. I gave up this design and stuck with my Currie mounted as a crank drive last year. I've since gone to hub motors, but still have interest in non hub drives.
 
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