...let me try! [low-cost street bike] -- last steps...

ok, I just finished to wind the motor up, it's now DLRK delta connected,9 turns per teeth of 2 parallel 16 AWG wire. i hope to get about 120kV now.

dlrk-winding-diasmal.jpg


12%2520-%25201.jpg


12%2520-%25202.jpg
 
Nice silvocross!!! :shock:

I like your wind job! I did a similar wind recently with a D4023-850 kv. 13T 2x24awg Zig-Zag DLRK:
5ectj7.jpg


What this variation does is it makes the ends of the wires come out of the stator together in pairs!! Pretty cool huh?

I got +85% efficiency at 14.4v 20amps with a GWS 10x6x3 blade prop @ WOT, >1500g of thrust from a 107g motor..! :twisted:

I think I really like doing winds with 2 wires instead of 1 BIG one. Usually cleaner and easier.

Good job!

Jay
 
I highly recommend adding input capacitors. They are cheap, and many people here have fried their controller without them. many ways to do that, here is a pic of what Castle recommends (the caps are $2 each if you buy direct from an electronics supplier)
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc-cap-pack.html
cccappack227_06.jpg


Heres Lukes thread on capacitor choices, they arrived in the mail in an envelope a few days after ordering:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=22194&hilit=nichicon&start=45#p382837
 
Thanks guys for your advices, I really need your inputs.

about the caps, I added six of these:

Code:
Panasonic EEUFC1J471
Life Time @ Temperature:5000 hours @ 105°C
Height:20mm
Outside Diameter:16mm
Capacitor Case Style:Radial Leaded  .Lead Spacing:7.5mm
Operating Temperature Range:-55°C to +105°C
AC Ripple Current:1765mA
Application:Low ESR  
Impedance:0.059ohm
Impedance Frequency:100kHz
Impedance Temperature:20°C
Max Operating Temperature:105°C
Ripple Current Frequency:100kHz

I think they're good, but obviously I get an huge spark when connecting the cables. I'm not sure if it's ok for the relay, maybe I've to install a second wire with a series resistor so i can charge the capacitors slowly before definitely connecting them.


a little update about the frame, now:

12%2520-%25201.jpg
 
Hi Silvio

Glad to hear that everything works.... now I wanna also see it!!!!!!!!

Good work with the motor windings....have you replaced also the bearings? damn, I've not your skills with wires and electronics, but if I was not so busy I would try to rewind my 80-100 too :)

I will look for Reports on how the controller works in your setup.
Also I'm curious about direct gears.....I'm not sure if they are good without lubrication with your setup's power, but, hey, here on ES It's really easy to be surprised by the real world member's applications...

Hope to see Pics - Video soon 8) .......

I really like your style and determination.

Jules
 
panurge said:
Good work with the motor windings....have you replaced also the bearings? damn, I've not your skills with wires and electronics, but if I was not so busy I would try to rewind my 80-100 too :)

I will look for Reports on how the controller works in your setup.

Hi Jules, It's not so difficult to rewind the 80-100 but it took me about 4 hours (it was a long night... :mrgreen: ) 'cause it was my first attempt in rewinding.
Don't worry, you can do it! :wink:

I haven't found reasons to change the bearings, they're working good at the moment

with 9 turns instead of the original 8, the motor runs a little slower as I expected, it should be better for the transmission.

I'll upload pics of the bike when the wiring is complete, i don't wanna show messy wires all around :D

today I modified the turnigy wattmeter so I can place the display in a useful place without lengthening the 50V wires:

12%2520-%25201.jpg


I'm gonna design the esc controller pcb, so this'll be a long night too...

Question: why are you not using a servo tester to control the esc?
Answer: Seems that one of the mayor causes of RC esc failure is the wide open throttle when the motor is running at low rpms. I wanna try to avoid it mixing the throttle position throttle gradient and bike speed [I hope I explained myself properly :oops: ]

OFF TOPIC:
I see you're from Berlin, what about to study engineering in Germany? Do you know if I can found courses in english?
thanks
 
You are doing a great project, i like it very much so far. I hope we can see it finished pretty soon.;)
 
nice looking rewind! I will definitely be emulating your wind next go around. I did a 12turn single 14 gauge in delta for 88kv. I like the two 16guge wires in parallel though and I think 120kv could work out nicely eventually.
 
Hi Silvio

I'm Italian, but my wife is from Berlin And I stay there for long periods during the year:) can say nothing right now about english courses in Germany but could ask of course...

Interesting intent about the throttle interface, however, from my experience and from what I know from other members, problems are with any throttle gradient at very low RPM, and maybe WOT could be, from theory, the better option there :D , If the transmission will survive and you will be not ejected or backfliped :mrgreen: anyway your approach sounds really interesting.....

There's the beta CA-LRC option playing around these lines (works well, and better promises) to be used with both POT or hall Throttles as an Amp based or a speed based interface with RC ESCs, avoiding the use of a supplementary interface......and also if I understand that your build is low cost, and is a pleasure for you to play with electronics, let me say that The CA is a "must" for any EV rider-builder :wink: .

Looking forward to next steps!!!

Jules
 
panurge said:
There's the beta CA-LRC option playing around these lines (works well, and better promises) to be used with both POT or hall Throttles as an Amp based or a speed based interface with RC ESCs, avoiding the use of a supplementary interface......and also if I understand that your build is low cost, and is a pleasure for you to play with electronics, let me say that The CA is a "must" for any EV rider-builder :wink: .

I had a look at the cycle analyst, it's a great project and seems that here on ES it received the right attention, but I have other ideas in my head.

I don't like character LCD's (they're looking so obsolete) and I just wanna a single programmable bike computer.
At the moment I'll go with the turnigy wattmeter for the first runs, then I'm planning to use my own hardware:

IMG_0558.JPG


IMG_0560.JPG


I'm also studying and following the opensource brushless controller thread, so hopefully i can incorporate it as well.

But at the moment the priority is to have a working test bike, the cake always arrives at the end of the party.. :wink:
 
I am learning all about e-bikes but have been riding for a long time and my only comment is you seem to have a long stretch from seat to handlebars and this may cause sore wrists as there will be quite a bit of weight on them, unless you are "very tall"
Just a thought.
 
fattybarber said:
I am learning all about e-bikes but have been riding for a long time and my only comment is you seem to have a long stretch from seat to handlebars and this may cause sore wrists as there will be quite a bit of weight on them, unless you are "very tall"
Just a thought.

umm, the position is similar to a cafè racer, so obviously a little front-stretched. I'm a dirtbike rider so I think to have a trained wrists, anyway I could also modify the seat if necessary.

I finished the pcb design, so I hope to find out some copper in bedroom.... :D

Immagine.JPG
 
Very cool! :D

Jay
 
ok, I just printed the pcb board.

It isn't really so good, I made it too much quickly. anyway this is just the first prototype, and it should work.

12%2520-%25201.jpg


soldering time, now!
 
here we are!

the board has to be a little bit modified for a better accomodation of the components, like the 10uF capacitors.

Anyway, it works and this is a good start!

12%2520-%25201.jpg


I also made a first quick firmware, it now limits the throttle gradient avoiding too hard accelerations.
It may have a too high delay, I'll check when mounted.

here a really ugly video explaining how it works:

http://youtu.be/Sx4PSdreCNQ
 
Silvocross,

Great work. We need to work a deal. I supply you with some high power lithium batteries for your bike, and I get some of your hard work and knowledge.
 
John in CR said:
Silvocross,

Great work. We need to work a deal. I supply you with some high power lithium batteries for your bike, and I get some of your hard work and knowledge.

oh John,
for sure, here in this forum I've only to learn from all of you... :oops:
 
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

IT WORKS!!

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I'm sorry for the bad quality of the pics, the bike is still in testing configuration, so there's too much wires all around

But wow, It works!

12%2520-%25202.jpg


12%2520-%25201.jpg
 
silvocross said:
today I modified the turnigy wattmeter so I can place the display in a useful place without lengthening the 50V wires:

An alternative would be to leave the display where it was and just move the shunt. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21976&hilit=remote+watt+meter#p320027

The firmware for the watt meter has also been modified to act as a throttle interface, including controlled throttle ramp up, and power limitting.
Search umejopa's posts for details: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?author_id=16563&sr=posts

Oh and awesome work on the bike looks great.

- Adrian
 
adrian_sm said:
silvocross said:
today I modified the turnigy wattmeter so I can place the display in a useful place without lengthening the 50V wires:

An alternative would be to leave the display where it was and just move the shunt. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21976&hilit=remote+watt+meter#p320027

The firmware for the watt meter has also been modified to act as a throttle interface, including controlled throttle ramp up, and power limitting.
Search umejopa's posts for details: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?author_id=16563&sr=posts

Oh and awesome work on the bike looks great.

- Adrian

damn..... I re-invented the wheel! :(
 
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