'lightest.bike' 1.7kg 1000w mid drive
- Thread starter Grantmac
- Start date
rivers
1 W
I had the same problem; a lot of chainring wobble, as much as 3mm of lateral runout. The problem is there because of manufacturing errors in the right crank assembly. The assembly has two features: a square taper hole and a 35mm threaded boss that screws into the one-way bearing. The two features must be coaxial, i.e. share a common axis. If there is angular misalignment you will get wobble.
Bikee has a bandaid fix to override the problem. They have a video showing the fix. Sorry, I no longer have that video but ask them to send it. It involves the use of the 13 spacers.
Be aware that the fix brings some new problems that I can share with you later.
Bikee has a bandaid fix to override the problem. They have a video showing the fix. Sorry, I no longer have that video but ask them to send it. It involves the use of the 13 spacers.
Be aware that the fix brings some new problems that I can share with you later.
Interesting reply: You went for the friction issue, while I had rather weight and overall number of components in mind. My point is: if you already have the component, you might use it for gearing as well. Keeping system complexity as low as possible seems always a smart move. BTW $30 is also the price for a robust shimano derailleur here, and the rohloff tenisoner - rohloff beeing one of the few IGHs allowing for a wider gear range then a 7-8speed cassette - will cost you a lot more than that...
Wow Rivers, thanks for the extra information. And it certainly explains why my triple had no wobble. I’ve been so frustrated …and after waiting 3 1/2 years… Bikee has really been avoiding my questions. I can’t imagine where I would find room to put on 13 spacers. In the picture, it looks like they’re all put on the outside, which as I said earlier, precludes being able to put on the crank arm. I’d also be interested to know what other problems happen down the line. I’ve been debating whether or not to just live with it. Unfortunately, I’m using the short mount, so the wobble is awfully close to the torque sensor. I may play around and go to a 6th or 7th spacer on the outside, and see if that reduces the wobble. It sounds like you’ve found the sweet spot Nervagon. Thanks for the feedback!
rivers
1 W
Yes, I used 10 spacers not 13.
rivers
1 W
You have to decide if you can live with the wobble because that's the easiest path forward. I could not live with it. My chain was riding up on top a drive pinion's gear tooth about every four crank revs and then slamming back in place.
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Qwerkus, i'm a big fan of mechanical simplicity so i tend to be a DD fan. This is my second venture into mid drive territory. I'm learning a lot!
I also don't like the weight or cost.. the loss of top speed and battery power is bad enough!
Geez, so this is a multi-person experience eh... i'd personally be OK with eliminating the freewheel and just using a normal crank with throttle only. or swapping to some other unit.
Luckily a freewheeling crankset can be found designed both for regular bikes and ebikes.
Hope they fix it... at least the kit uses standard bike parts.
I also don't like the weight or cost.. the loss of top speed and battery power is bad enough!
Geez, so this is a multi-person experience eh... i'd personally be OK with eliminating the freewheel and just using a normal crank with throttle only. or swapping to some other unit.
Luckily a freewheeling crankset can be found designed both for regular bikes and ebikes.
Hope they fix it... at least the kit uses standard bike parts.
I am thinking of going with the freewheel from a Rocky mountain powerplay if the bikee turns out to not work well for me.
www.pro-mstore.com
It is for the RaceFace Cinch crank system.
This parts is available for purchase.
Here is a video of one changing a crankset like this on a Rocky mountain bike. He has a pressfit bottom bracket, but you get threaded bottom brackts for this system as well.
On my bike i have a 30mm axle already so i can use the bottom bracket i have, but i will need a race face axle, cranks and this rocky mountain spider.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN SPIDER CLUTCH RACE FACE FOR POWERPLAY - Pro-M Store
ROCKY MOUNTAIN SPIDER CLUTCH RACE FACE FOR POWERPLAY. Large assortment of Rocky Mountain accessories and spare parts at Pro-M Store. Shipping in 48/72 hours.
www.pro-mstore.com
This parts is available for purchase.
On my bike i have a 30mm axle already so i can use the bottom bracket i have, but i will need a race face axle, cranks and this rocky mountain spider.
Hm, in my case, i'm designing it so that the motor can't outpace my pedals; bikee says my pedaling cadence should be 80rpm.
The pinion does move in reverse, just with the resistance of 2 gears and a motor.
True
The pinion does move in reverse, just with the resistance of 2 gears and a motor.
True
Some addendum..
- I ordered a kit with the offroad option and there is supposed to be no speed limiter in this case.
- I didn't need a bearing press to get the bearing on the BB, just pressure from tightening the BB was enough.
- Torque sensing is tuneable, not sure if this requires the superhero pack or not to tune - nobody has tried.
- I don't see/feel any slop in the assembly, but i have not ran the motor. I would prefer a top mount just to be sure.
- The bottom bracket problem is very real. Watch the chain in this video the company published:
- I ordered a kit with the offroad option and there is supposed to be no speed limiter in this case.
- I didn't need a bearing press to get the bearing on the BB, just pressure from tightening the BB was enough.
- Torque sensing is tuneable, not sure if this requires the superhero pack or not to tune - nobody has tried.
- I don't see/feel any slop in the assembly, but i have not ran the motor. I would prefer a top mount just to be sure.
- The bottom bracket problem is very real. Watch the chain in this video the company published:
raylo32
100 kW
LOL... getting a Lightest Bike mid drive is the e-bike equivalent of wearing a hair shirt and self flagellating. But I do enjoy reading most of this anyway.
rhauff
100 mW
Thanks for breakng the ice that seems to have formed... @neptronix looking forward to you getting the battery and other parts to see how it goes for you. Any learning you do (as well as @nervagon and others) will help mine go better when it show up!
Thanks for the encouragement!
I heard back from em3ev just today, saying it will be 2 more weeks - it's gone out the factory and is in their multi stage shipping process.
I'm exhausted w/this thread until then and talking about so many theoretical things, but not with the idea of finding a way to make this drive work. More from me later.
I heard back from em3ev just today, saying it will be 2 more weeks - it's gone out the factory and is in their multi stage shipping process.
I'm exhausted w/this thread until then and talking about so many theoretical things, but not with the idea of finding a way to make this drive work. More from me later.
raylo32
100 kW
This is the most interesting part of all this, to me. I use EM3EV batteries and would love to see where they are taking them. I hope the UL ratings don't drive prices up too much.
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Update on my end. I finally have the em3ev battery.
Still awaiting the dual chainring parts. I'm removing the bikee motor and running the grin all axle motor in a 24" instead because i am not missing another biking season to this motor, it's been too long.
I will be putting the lightest mid drive on the recumbent. The dual chainring system allows me to orient it in any goofy way i'd like, and i could gear it to go up to 35mph and get away with it thanks to the great aerodynamics of the bike.
Sorry, i won't be testing it in stock form!
Still awaiting the dual chainring parts. I'm removing the bikee motor and running the grin all axle motor in a 24" instead because i am not missing another biking season to this motor, it's been too long.
I will be putting the lightest mid drive on the recumbent. The dual chainring system allows me to orient it in any goofy way i'd like, and i could gear it to go up to 35mph and get away with it thanks to the great aerodynamics of the bike.
Sorry, i won't be testing it in stock form!
I have everything i need from the bikee boys at this stage.
Currently focusing on getting the bike with the all axle hub up and running. Two wires to solder and one frame bag to modify and we should be up and running on that bike and on to the next.
I've got all the issues with the recumbent the lightest will go on sorted out finally.
I'm going from a 8-speed entry level sram drivetrain to a 10 speed Shimano linkglide so that it can handle a maxed out lightest mid drive. Supposedly this linkglide system is 3x stronger and designed specifically for ebikes. Because i have a reduction in the middle of the bike, the rear chain should be moving at a fast speed with less torque.
As you can see, there's no good options for mounting a battery here. Upside down is not a good orientation. Some fabrication will be required. But that's the last problem to solve on this bike i think.
According to my calculations, due to the aerodynamic advantage, the lightest should have a top speed around 36-39mph as long as the controller doesn't intervene and cut my speed.
Currently focusing on getting the bike with the all axle hub up and running. Two wires to solder and one frame bag to modify and we should be up and running on that bike and on to the next.
I've got all the issues with the recumbent the lightest will go on sorted out finally.
I'm going from a 8-speed entry level sram drivetrain to a 10 speed Shimano linkglide so that it can handle a maxed out lightest mid drive. Supposedly this linkglide system is 3x stronger and designed specifically for ebikes. Because i have a reduction in the middle of the bike, the rear chain should be moving at a fast speed with less torque.
As you can see, there's no good options for mounting a battery here. Upside down is not a good orientation. Some fabrication will be required. But that's the last problem to solve on this bike i think.
According to my calculations, due to the aerodynamic advantage, the lightest should have a top speed around 36-39mph as long as the controller doesn't intervene and cut my speed.
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