Look over my build before I purchase everything?

[sl33py]

camyboy - max has you mostly squared away.

Looks like there's a little remedial Parallel vs Series to review. No biggie. Parallel is where both the positive and negative wires split to two batteries. So two 3s 5000mAh batteries would then be 3s 10000mAh. Those same batteries in series (positive to negative in the middle) would double the voltage but keep the same mAh. So 6s 5000mAh.

In pictures:

This is again where being able to swap connectors to one standard will help. Seriously, i would recommend you get a decent iron and swap them so everything matches up. You can purchase adapters on ebay and amazon in a pinch if you are absolutely against soldering. You can also get some nice parallel and series connectors depending what you are trying to do. dual 3s in series for 6s would be my guess. Here's a quick search for 4mm HXT series cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Heavy...-Lipo-Connector-with-10awg-Wire-/231394867697

there are some better ones, and definitely some cheaper ones, but hopefully now you know what you are looking for!

Torque - love that you don't push your products and i know you'll back up your gear like always. I'd pay the extra $ to get it from you vs ebay. my .02.

You'll sort it out - GL!

 

[camyboy]

camyboy - max has you mostly squared away.

Looks like there's a little remedial Parallel vs Series to review. No biggie. Parallel is where both the positive and negative wires split to two batteries. So two 3s 5000mAh batteries would then be 3s 10000mAh. Those same batteries in series (positive to negative in the middle) would double the voltage but keep the same mAh. So 6s 5000mAh.

In pictures:

This is again where being able to swap connectors to one standard will help. Seriously, i would recommend you get a decent iron and swap them so everything matches up. You can purchase adapters on ebay and amazon in a pinch if you are absolutely against soldering. You can also get some nice parallel and series connectors depending what you are trying to do. dual 3s in series for 6s would be my guess. Here's a quick search for 4mm HXT series cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Heavy...-Lipo-Connector-with-10awg-Wire-/231394867697

there are some better ones, and definitely some cheaper ones, but hopefully now you know what you are looking for!

Torque - love that you don't push your products and i know you'll back up your gear like always. I'd pay the extra $ to get it from you vs ebay. my .02.

You'll sort it out - GL!

sounds good, I cant find the IMAX B6AC V2 charger that ships to canada for a decent price

I own this charger http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN4077 if it would work but doubt it

 

[camyboy]

So the way it works so it's much easier for you.

You choose a battery pack which has 4mm HXT series connector on it. This connector is nothing more then an electrical connector that pairs with another of the same time just the opposite female/male.

So you need a series connector like the previous one I showed you. The easiest way is to make your own with 10awg wire with the connectors above and/or buy the pre-made series connector and fixing the end of the series connector for 5.5mm bullet connectors which match the on/off switch or the loop key.

So you understand what series and parallel is.. Here are a few photos.

Series - Adds the voltage together. Also shown as P. Ex. 6S2P
Parallel - Adds the capacity together. Also shown as P. Ex. 6S2P
This means 6 battery cells in series and 2 in parallel.

The only difference with the above 2 images is the fact that they are using Deans connectors and not 4mm HXT.

This photo below is the series connector I use which uses the same connectors above and 10awg wire.

The ends, the black on the left and the red on the right are 5.5mm bullet connectors which fit into the next cable.

So... In your case, if you go with a loop key

Make sure the black wire from the 4mm HXT Series connector to the ESC match up. If the ESC is 5.5mm female.. then the 4mm HXT series connector black wire should be 5.5mm male and/or vice versa.

How to setup a loop key.

The loop key simply breaks the connection. You can use the XT90 Anti Spark wires on HobbyKing which make it easier since it eats the spark.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61690__XT90_S_Anti_Spark_Connector_2pairs_bag_.html

The loop portion will fit in between the red wire coming out of the 4mm HXT series connector and the 5.5mm red wire from the ESC.

These two will connect and end up on one of the 4mm HXT connectors.

The loop key when removed will break the connection.
When the loop key is plugged in current can flow and the system is on.

So just made a payment heres the parts list
1x #9114000006/45311 HobbyKing® ™HK-GT2B 3CH 2.4GHz Transmitter and Receiver w/Rechargable Li-i (US Warehouse) = $26.07
1x Hobbyking Parallel charging Board for 6 packs 2~6S (HXT4mm) (USA warehouse) = $9.75
1x Turnigy High Quality 10AWG Silicone Wire 1m (Black) (US Warehouse) = $3.36
1x HXT 4mm Gold Connector w/Pre-installed Bullets (10pcs/set) (US Warehouse) = $7.83
1x HXT 4mm Gold Connector w/ Protector (10pcs/set) (US Warehouse) = $4.80
2x Turnigy 5000mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (US Warehouse) = $46.92
1x Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-260kv Brushless Outrunner Motor (US Warehouse) = $60.94
1x Turnigy High Quality 10AWG Silicone Wire 1m (Red) (US Warehouse) = $3.36
I forgot the loop key XT90's tho. I dont wanna pay another 36 shipping for one part ;/ EDIT: just purchased it was like 14$ CAD with shippin

 

[camyboy]

camyboy - max has you mostly squared away.

Looks like there's a little remedial Parallel vs Series to review. No biggie. Parallel is where both the positive and negative wires split to two batteries. So two 3s 5000mAh batteries would then be 3s 10000mAh. Those same batteries in series (positive to negative in the middle) would double the voltage but keep the same mAh. So 6s 5000mAh.

In pictures:

This is again where being able to swap connectors to one standard will help. Seriously, i would recommend you get a decent iron and swap them so everything matches up. You can purchase adapters on ebay and amazon in a pinch if you are absolutely against soldering. You can also get some nice parallel and series connectors depending what you are trying to do. dual 3s in series for 6s would be my guess. Here's a quick search for 4mm HXT series cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Heavy...-Lipo-Connector-with-10awg-Wire-/231394867697

there are some better ones, and definitely some cheaper ones, but hopefully now you know what you are looking for!

Torque - love that you don't push your products and i know you'll back up your gear like always. I'd pay the extra $ to get it from you vs ebay. my .02.

You'll sort it out - GL!

So I received all my parts. I'm just a little confused on some things. For the 4mm HXT connectors (preinstalled) which hole do I connect the red and which hole do I connect the black. Secondly, do the batteries come fully charged when u get them? I'm scared to charge it and potentially over charge it

 

[torqueboards]

4mm HXT if you connect in series.. the end points which plug into an on/off switch or your esc should be the black and red.

Batteries stored state for lipos is around 3.7-3.8 which means they'll be in between that range.

 

[camyboy]

4mm HXT if you connect in series.. the end points which plug into an on/off switch or your esc should be the black and red.

Batteries stored state for lipos is around 3.7-3.8 which means they'll be in between that range.

Yes I get how to connect them. Just in my case I need to swap the esc connnector(the one to batteries) to 4mm just I'm not sure which hole to soder the black and red too. I've seen pictures showing black wire connectors to fater/wider connector and the skinny connector is red

 

[jakeyb2525]

20T//44T will work. It's a 1:2.2 ratio. If you like and want the smaller 36T option. I can send it out to you once I receive my new batch. Just let me know

16T/36T is a 1:2.25 ratio.

The major difference is the 20T/44T will have more teeth in mesh which is a good thing but 44T is a bigger diameter pulley which means there's less room and it will weigh a bit more. However, with a 90mm wheel it's not much noticeable.

Has he got the 9mm wide 20t or the 15mm wide motor pulley?

If it's the 15mm it won't run....the belt rubs on the wheel

 

[camyboy]

20T//44T will work. It's a 1:2.2 ratio. If you like and want the smaller 36T option. I can send it out to you once I receive my new batch. Just let me know

16T/36T is a 1:2.25 ratio.

The major difference is the 20T/44T will have more teeth in mesh which is a good thing but 44T is a bigger diameter pulley which means there's less room and it will weigh a bit more. However, with a 90mm wheel it's not much noticeable.

Has he got the 9mm wide 20t or the 15mm wide motor pulley?

If it's the 15mm it won't run....the belt rubs on the wheel

http://imgur.com/0q8PS2a

 

[jakeyb2525]

20T//44T will work. It's a 1:2.2 ratio. If you like and want the smaller 36T option. I can send it out to you once I receive my new batch. Just let me know

16T/36T is a 1:2.25 ratio.

The major difference is the 20T/44T will have more teeth in mesh which is a good thing but 44T is a bigger diameter pulley which means there's less room and it will weigh a bit more. However, with a 90mm wheel it's not much noticeable.

Has he got the 9mm wide 20t or the 15mm wide motor pulley?

If it's the 15mm it won't run....the belt rubs on the wheel

http://imgur.com/0q8PS2a

Looks like a 15mm belt..?


what motor pulley have you got..?

Pretty sure you can't use a 15mm wide setup with an sk3 motor shaft....someone correct me if i'm wrong?

I Received the same drive gear...i was expecting the 16T/36T in Aluminum... but ended up with a 9mm belt, 15m wide motor pulley and the black gear

Torque has said he will send me the right 16T/36T drive when he gets it back in stock

until then i have had to buy a couple of 9mm pulleys to see if i can get in running....ive bought a 15T and a 16T the 20T is way too sluggish for me and wouldn't fit mys sk3 motor shaft properly ...

If you have a 15mm belt and a 15mm pulley.. it might work for you....unfortunately the setup i received i couldn't use

Torque seems like a decent guy... im sure he will sort it out for you if you have any problems

some pics on my build thread

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=73181

 

[torqueboards]

Yeah sorry guys... I've made note and will contact you guys once I get new stock.

 

[camyboy]

Yeah sorry guys... I've made note and will contact you guys once I get new stock.

so I cant use it? Well how long am I going to wait? Its going to start snowing in like a week or two..

 

[camyboy]

I dont even know if i was sent 15mm belt and a 15mm pulley. I know nothing in dimensions ;(

 

[torqueboards]

Hi Camy,

I pm'ed you. That way we don't clog up the threads.

 

[emotiva]

I dont even know if i was sent 15mm belt and a 15mm pulley. I know nothing in dimensions ;(

You should be able to measure that quite easily.

 

[sl33py]

Good NEWS! BOARD RUNS! Measuring up dimensions tmmr and going to look at ways for enclosures
Whats a good ESC config? Im not sure what to put
Edit: ESC is stuck at ESC Model V1.00_121012 screen, presssed buttons but no luck of a change

Congrats!

I think your issue is just how to use the LCD programming card right? It's spinning and working otherwise?

IIRC (i had a little while to figure it out for my XERUN which is similar) when you power the LCD programmer you need power to your ESC as well. When the Model v1.xx info shows up hit the far left button (item/return maybe?) and see if it connects and gets you into the programming mode to adjust settings.

I would recommend you use the soft start feature until you are comfortable w/ the board's acceleration. I'd see what Torque recommends for starting point settings, but i know the most critical item is likely brakes. I'd start at 60% and increase until it stops you smoothly. Go slow and be careful until you have it figured out. Too much brakes = road rash, so i'd wear some extra gear until you are certain you've got the feel for it. Knee/elbows are good - helmet at the least!

HTH - GL!

 

[camyboy]

Good NEWS! BOARD RUNS! Measuring up dimensions tmmr and going to look at ways for enclosures
Whats a good ESC config? Im not sure what to put
Edit: ESC is stuck at ESC Model V1.00_121012 screen, presssed buttons but no luck of a change

Congrats!

I think your issue is just how to use the LCD programming card right? It's spinning and working otherwise?

IIRC (i had a little while to figure it out for my XERUN which is similar) when you power the LCD programmer you need power to your ESC as well. When the Model v1.xx info shows up hit the far left button (item/return maybe?) and see if it connects and gets you into the programming mode to adjust settings.

I would recommend you use the soft start feature until you are comfortable w/ the board's acceleration. I'd see what Torque recommends for starting point settings, but i know the most critical item is likely brakes. I'd start at 60% and increase until it stops you smoothly. Go slow and be careful until you have it figured out. Too much brakes = road rash, so i'd wear some extra gear until you are certain you've got the feel for it. Knee/elbows are good - helmet at the least!

HTH - GL!

Yes ESC is running and motor is spinning but once card is connected it just stays on that 1 screen