Looking For More Torque

astilwell611

100 W
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
100
Hello,

I have been lurking around the forum for a while now but this is my first real post. My current setup is 42" ebay board, 83mm flywheel clones, caliber trucks with onloops single mount kit, 150A HK esc running 6s, 14/32 gearing, and 280kv sk3 63mm motor. I ride a lot of hills here on the UNCC campus and I can really hear the motor struggling at times. I don't think gearing will change a whole lot and top speed is pretty limited as it is. I was looking at the 190kv sk3 or the tapcon 245kv. Dont really want to swap esc's and batts just yet. Mostly looking at gearing and lower kv motors. I just wanted to know your opinions.

Thanks,
Austin
 
Hey mate, if you have my kit you probably have 14 to 36

if you don't want to change the battery & ESC the other things you can do is:
1. reduce the motor pulley teeth to 13 (or 12 but i think its too small, not enough teeth in mesh - i don't recommend)
2. get a smaller wheel diameter
3. Lower KV motor

all these things above reduce top speed & increase torque

The only way to increase torque without reducing top speed is:
1. Get another motor
2. Increase voltage.
 
The way I see it, you have 4 options, ranging in price/effectiveness:

Get a second esc and motor running in diagonal. Reasonably expensive, reliable.

Bump up the voltage with more batteries and a new esc, and adjust the gearing to suit the new voltage/speed you want. Reasonably expensive, reliable.

If you don't already have a 6374 motor (so one of the smaller 6354 or 6364) then get the 6374 at an appropriate kv, and adjust the gearing to what speed you want, given the new kv speed. Reasonably cheap, reliable.

This one is less effective by far, but much cheaper... change the gearing/wheel size to give you a slower speed and more torque. Keep in mind this won't give you any more power, just run slower and steeper. You can get this done for $20 and about 10 mins. If you know what you want in a pulley and in the US, they can be had cheaply online at sterling instruments/sdp-si or similar. Alternatively hit up onloop or torqueboards, and whoever else does electric skate parts.


If you are running a 6354 motor get a 74, the 54 are weak. I blew one up burning across an oval in my scooter (at about 15mph/25kph) before building my board. Scooter only had an hour or two total running time.
 
bandaro said:
If you are running a 6354 motor get a 74, the 54 are weak.

is not entirely true that all 54mm length motors are weak, some motors in general are just crap.

What motor did you have that died?..... i feel like guessing... but i wont.
 
I assume, you have a 6354 260KV motor. SK3 doesn't have any 63mm at 280KV unless your referring to the 50mm SK3.

Your quickest way to climb steeper hills are to run a second motor.

I was able to climb 20-30% hills on a dual diagonal 6S with Dual 50mm 280kv SK3.

My rider weight is about 190/200lbs.

If that's too much. Changing the gearing would do it but adding a second motor is better.
 
they don't make 63mm sk3 motor with 280kv. Are you sure you have a 63mm motor?
 
Hey guys thanks for all of your reply's. Just to be clear my motor hasn't died yet. I can also climb pretty well all the hills on campus I can just hear it bog down bad on some of the bigger ones. I'm pretty sure my motor isn't a 50mm as there is defiantly not enough room to mount two motor on the rear. The numbers on the motor are 5065/280. I thought this morning that it would probably be easier to swap esc's and batteries. I'm just not real sure on which way to go on esc's. I love vedders setup but I don't understand the whole programming it via linux. Also I would like to stay single motor since I have to carry my board through the buildings on campus and such lighter weight is better for me.

Here is a pic of the motor.


Here is a pic to show that I can't run two on the rear.
 
5065 meaning 50mm diameter motor and 65mm length.

The reason why it doesn't fit dual rear is because it's 65mm length. Dual rear motors need to be 55mm in length.

Add a second motor would be the best idea.

You can gear it higher for more torque but with 280KV you'll need a pretty big reduction.
 
I haven't seen anyone do it but could run a second motor in the rear with motor behind the truck.
 
Probably worth noting that I am seriously considering switching to pneumatic wheels. Also keep in mind I'm not looking to go 30-40mph simply because I can't on campus, too much pedestrian traffic. I am perfectly okay with having a max speed of around 15mph. I was looking at both of these motors.

They also make this one in a 149kv motor???

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39150__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_190kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_US_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=turnigy%20aerodrive%20sk3%2063

Even though it's still a 50mm It seems to get a lot of good reviews here on the forum.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-bigfoot160-5335-245kv.html

So to sum up mostly looking to swap motors and to pneumatic wheels. Also would perfer to stay at 6s for now. I want something that will carry my 170lb self prob( 180 with backpack) up decent sized hills. I'm thinking the 63mm sk3 is my best option.
 
that's a 50mm motor. IMO, get a $85 6374 Sk3 (or a $55 tacon 6364) motor and be done with it. You will need a new 8mm pinion so might as well drop a tooth or two on the pinion side. You'll get much more torque, you can use the same batteries and esc, and it's quick, cheap and easy. my $0.02
 
astilwell611 said:
Even though it's still a 50mm It seems to get a lot of good reviews here on the forum.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-bigfoot160-5335-245kv.html


this motor is 63mm in diameter, 54mm in length.
 
maxchilton said:
astilwell611 said:
Even though it's still a 50mm It seems to get a lot of good reviews here on the forum.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-bigfoot160-5335-245kv.html


this motor is 63mm in diameter, 54mm in length.


From what I have read online from owners of the The Tacon it is a great motor! Especially at that price!

However The Tacon Big Foot 160 245kv motors are now out of stock.

Also I can confirm at this stage they won't be coming back. The reason for the price reduction is to clear out their old stock. If for some slight chance they do come back they won't be $55 as its under the cost price to manufacture the new improved premium version which is what I offer in the 6355 190kv R-SPEC Motors.

So how do I know all this?...well as has been suggested by some people already....I have finally been able to confirm that these Tacon Bigfoot motors are from the same Factory as the R-SPEC Eboard Motors.... originally they denied it but I kept pushing them for info, so they went back into the archive of sales. They found that the TACON motors were actually ordered from my factory over 2 years ago & this is the last of that order. They have not ordered anymore... probably because the price is much higher now.

The Tacon Motor has a great reputation but the interesting fact is that those Tacon Bigfoot motors are actually the "budget/entry level" version from this particular motor factory. That version is now discontinued.... as the factory only wants to produce premium motors now.

The main difference between TACON & ENERTION R-SPEC is the bearings & stators found in the TACON BIGFOOT are Chinese grade components. Also the R-SPEC Stator & windings are treated in a chemical bath to make them water resistant!

The Chinese grade silicone steels used in the stators of the TACON motors are a lower grade material with thicker laminations and therefore have much greater losses. Chinese bearings are also generally low grade and lack precision, the cheapest ones on the market are commonly made with recycled metal which is much softer.... basically they wear out quicker which results in friction losses! Bearings can be replaced though! Stators cannot easily be replaced.

The low grade silicone steel used in the stators is the main difference between Tacon & Enertion R-SPEC. With the lower grade steels & Standards used in Chinese Stator manufacturing you get greater Hysteresis & Eddy Current Losses. So you do end up with a cheaper motor but one which is less efficient & runs hotter.

The Bearings and Stator used in the Enertion R-SPEC are now sourced from a specialist Japanese stator supplier that uses specially developed "electrical steel" with high silicone content to minimize hysteresis..

My motors are not the cheapest ones available but they are the best I have been able to find... Also they are designed for electric skateboard as they have a machined shaft with a keyway that is compatible with the Pulley you have (assuming it has a key?), the motor wires are long, flexible & made using quality high stand count copper silicone insulted wire.. which is about $2 a meter... it all adds up.


Sorry to hijack your thread, but I only just got this info & thought I better clear up some things.
 
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