Lost my controller

Zoemonique

1 mW
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
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I have just bought an electric skateboard X SPORT , I bought it online second hand super cheap because it's missing the wireless controller .

Can anybody help me finding out how to find the right controller or how to determine at which frequency it runs on?

Thanks

Zoe
 
Just out of curiosity, do you know the battery voltage, motor type (brushed DC should have two wires coming out of it while brushless motors will have three; they operate on two very different principles and require different controllers), and the rpm/V constant of the motor on the board?
 
3 x 12v 9ah batteries .
2 wires coming out of battery
Motor has 2 wires coming out
I have photos but they're too big to load
 
OK; do you know whether the controller is designed to operate wirelessly (connection to a standard RC control trigger), or via a wired throttle? I ask because I don't know of anywhere that specifically sells RC skateboard controllers, but I know that you can probably rig something up. If you want a throttle that's physically connected to the controller, then you should be able to slap in something like this for $50 or so, then grab a three-wire potentiometer or Hall throttle and plug it into the controller for $10-15.

If you want radio control, then things might start getting more complex and expensive. Most of the standard RC ESCs (capable of taking direct RC throttle pulses) that I'm aware of are designed for three-phase brushless motors (which are very different from what you have and use very different controllers), and the only products that I'm aware of that will do that for a brushed DC motor are moderately specialized controllers intended for use in small robots; you can have a look at offerings in that domain over here, but they tend to run decidedly more expensive than the cheaper wired small-EV brushed controllers for the same power-handling capabilities.

Or you could just upgrade to brushless power and LiPo or LiFePO4 batteries :mrgreen: On a more serious note, though, if you want better range and battery durability for much less weight (and have the money to spend) I really would recommend upgrading your batteries from the stock SLAs to some form of lithium chemistry.
 
Thanks so much for all that information, I was following you for a while but it got all a bit technical in the end. Excuse my ignorance ... I have been told it is brushes because there are two cables from the motor?
I believe it is wireless as there is no place for anything to be plugged in other than where the charger is plugged .

The board cost me $50 . I'd be willing to fork out a couple hundred just to get the controller because I think it would be worth about $800 if I could get it going ... I thought it would be as easy as googling the brand ... Or finding someone with the same board ... It seems the board is no where ... Not being sold anymore ... Hobby shops are atumped and now I am here on this forum hoping for a little insight .
 
Zoemonique said:
Thanks so much for all that information, I was following you for a while but it got all a bit technical in the end. Excuse my ignorance ... I have been told it is brushes because there are two cables from the motor?
I believe it is wireless as there is no place for anything to be plugged in other than where the charger is plugged .

The board cost me $50 . I'd be willing to fork out a couple hundred just to get the controller because I think it would be worth about $800 if I could get it going ... I thought it would be as easy as googling the brand ... Or finding someone with the same board ... It seems the board is no where ... Not being sold anymore ... Hobby shops are atumped and now I am here on this forum hoping for a little insight .

No problem, but yes; if the motor has two cables coming from it it's brushed DC. Wireless is probably better for something the size of a skateboard with nothing to mount a throttle on, and you should have some connection from where the batteries would be that you can connect the controller to. If you want something that can be controlled via a standard RC car controller, then I'd recommend you pick up a RageBridge from Equals Zero Designs (full disclosure: the guy who runs that site is a friend of mine); that controller can do 30A continuously per channel (and has two channels), which gives you a current rating of 50-60A nigh unto forever(with bursts up to 150A or so) if you yoke both channels together. It can do regenerative braking and full four-quadrant motor operation (forward and accelerating, forward and braking, reverse and accelerating, reverse and braking) at up to those ratings, and (unlike a lot of brushed DC controllers intended for small robots) it will actually limit current to what it can handle, instead of turning off or blowing up if there are spikes. It's a bit pricey at $185, but the only controllers on Robot Marketplace capable of handling input voltages north of 40V (SLAs are usually around 14-14.5V hot off the charger, so a 36V SLA setup is actually floating somewhere around 42-43V maximum and will need recharging around 35-36V) at 40-50A input currents start at $225 and up.

If you're interested, I can link you to the posts on Charles Guan's blog where he documents the process of designing, building, and testing RageBridge prototypes so you can see for yourself if that's what you want.
 
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