Mac stator replacement

[matthewalexhart]

Hi Folks

Im replacing the stator on a Mac motor. It came with the copper coil wires unterminated into Phases, just 6 bare copper wires.

I have used the old stator as a reference for the termination, alas when powered up , just a 1/10 of a turn when a hit the throttle.

How do a properly test to make sure ive got the right connections?

I can use a volt meter, barely!

Thank you

 

[amberwolf]

Im replacing the stator on a Mac motor. It came with the copper coil wires unterminated into Phases, just 6 bare copper wires.

I'm unsure exactly what you have / see, as both of the pictures you've included (original and replacement) show motors with stubs of phase wires hanging off the winding connections (the one with the axle also has what appear to be new but damaged phase wires). (I attached the two pictures to my post in case they disappear from yours for any reason, for reference.)

If the phase wires shown are what is being used, and there is any other insulation damage beyond what can be seen in the picture, that allows the conductors to touch either between phases or from them to the hall signal or power wires, etc, it could damage the controller such that it wouldn't be able to correctly drive any motor anymore.

I have used the old stator as a reference for the termination, alas when powered up , just a 1/10 of a turn when a hit the throttle.

Did the old motor work correctly on the same controller? If not, what were the exact specific problems it had that led to it's replacement?

Are boht the phase and hall connections identical not in color, but in connection pattern, to the original setup? If only color was matched, but connection order is different, it's not the same pattern to the controller and it can't drive the motor correctly.

How do a properly test to make sure ive got the right connections?

I can use a volt meter, barely!

If the ones you've connected come from the exact same teeth / etc as the old one has connected, they're probably correct. It's unlikley they'd terminate them in different spots for the same stator type and winding variation (assuming it's the same speed version of the motor, etc).

If you disconnect the terminations, so you have just the separate windings, you can verify with a multimeter set to 200ohms or continuity or diode test ->| - to match ends of winding sets. Assuming a non-shorted stator/winding set, you'll only get a reading between ends of the same winding, so one isolated end will only read across to the other end of the same winding, and not to any of the other four possible ends. It still doesn't tell you which ends to tie together, but it ensures you are connecting them in the necessary pairings to get current flow between them.

 

[matthewalexhart]

Thank you for your reply.

The stator Im replacing has 16000 plus km on it. All the wiring and magnets have degenerated with mild overheating over time.
I have melted the hall signal wires off the small board mounted on the coil, after resolding the motor had a "hunting" sensation at high load.
Recently the motor completely failed.

I tested everything ( controller switches etc) all the way to the motor by pluging in another exact same motor and it all worked properly.

I was sent a spare coil from Em3ev , hence my decision to replace it.

I have tested the coils and now have three pairs , Thanks, but as you said , how to check order?

One form of logic would say , if travelling in a clockwise direction Yellow ,Green , Blue, as this is the way the old stator is connected.

If I simply try it , am i in danger of frying anything?

Thanks again

 

[amberwolf]

As long as you have the coil pairs isolated, and connected up, nothing should be damaged by gently trying it with no load. (wouldn't do full throttle, or under load, until you have it verified, though).

The key will be to have the Wye connection (where all three phase windings connect) be the correct end of each phase winding. If that's the same as your existing stator(s) then it's probably correct.

If the wiring is wrong, it either won't spin, or will spin at greatly increased current.

If you have a sensorless controller you can see if the phase wiring to windings is correct, without worrying whether the hall sensors work or are wired correctly relative to the phase wires.