Mach1 scooter motor capable of more than 1600w?

[minde28383]

Good day,
Last year I bought 1600W scooter (model is named - Mach1 1600w 48V, lead battery) from Germany. All these scooters look alike, just re-branded... due fact that lead battery is heavy I'm about to replace it with LiPo 16Amps/hours.

It performs nice but i would like to add little bit acceleration. Speed is 43km/h which is enough for this little machine, but it would be nice to reach that 43km/h just little bit quicker. What stock Mach1 motor is capable? Can I run little bit more amps through it? for example to modify stock controller by putting little bit more solder or even replace stock controller to quality 40amps or 50amps controller?
I'm consulting you guys as I don't want to smoke motor.
By the way I got spare stock controller therefore it would be easiest to modify it but again, will motor handle more amps?

To be frank I got no idea about motor specifics in this scooter. I just know that is is quite light motor of about 3.6kg if I remember it correctly. I took photo of motor if it's any help:

 

[Ianhill]

Hello to you.
The lipo will be a good upgrade over the ageing lead acids 12s I suppose you will be using ?
Soldering up the shunt and traces will give you the accel/amps u want but the low quality FETs may burn a decent controller would be more reliable as all the parts are design for higher currents, the scooter is a good base though.

 

[minde28383]

Hey,
I thought about 13s (48V LiPo) or maybe even upgrade/new controller and make it 16s (72V LiPo) but I'm afraid about the stock motor. I didn't find anybody to run this motor with more than stock V and amps. Therefore I hesitate, leave amperage and V as it is or go up.

 

[Ianhill]

Electricgod has a good thread called My kick scooter project.
He is running at 72v or 80v I believe on a 60v 2000w version of the same motor and its in the process of being rewound due to having technical difficulty's with an insulation fault and melted down, so I think 72v on the standard 48v 1600w motor is out of the question as he did mention the windings as standard are poor quality and construction, but it may take 60v 2000w/33.33a just a small overvolt and the current kept to the same.
Problem is the stator is stationary with very little airflow as standard so it gathers heat quite fast on high load because there's nothing to carry it away other than the motors metal can disapating heat to air and small trickle of air pulled across the windings taking a small amount of heat away.
Yes 13s lipo 54.6v off charger is equvelent rest voltage to 4 sealed lead acid that should be around 54.4v depending on type, but under load 12s lipo is more comparable and 12s is still faster but 13s is much faster. I use 12s as its easier to charge 3 4s packs or 2 6s and it is within the standard controllers LV/HV cutoffs and with like for like capacity 12s will out perform the lead block in duration by far and speed just a bit.
If u want a good speed boost try get a 60v2000w controller and use 16s lipo fit a watthour gauge so u have an idea of discharge levels hold on as for a cheap thrill just add the 13 s lipo and it will be faster for sure .

 

[SlowCo]

Is your motor the newer brushless or older brushed (only 2 wires into the motor) type DC motor?

I have the older brushed version and it's stock with the heavy SLA batteries but with shorter "hill climb" gearing. So I have better acceleration but a max speed of about 34 km/h. I think that your current SLA batteries, like mine, sag (drop in voltage) a lot when accelerating especially if you have the taller gearing. LiPo will be an upgrade in that respect. Keep us updated on your progress. Good luck, I'll be watching to learn more.

 

[minde28383]

Hi, mine got 48v (4 SLA batteries 12Ah). It is also set for "hill climb" gearing. Max speed is 43km/h, otherwise I had option for quicker sprocket but less hill climb but it didn't sound good for me therefore I went for slower.

I'm starting to have thoughts about motor upgrade to BHT 1000W. Some folks run it for much than 1000 Watts. This motor is cheaper than Turnigy 151cc/100cc

 

[Ianhill]

Remember watts is nothing more than volts × amps your brushless motor is 1600watt at 48v so 35amp max on the controller but 35amp at 60v would be 2000w and a speed close to 40mph with good gearing
Turnigy 100cc would be a lot more powerfully wound than this motor so there's no comparison.
I run a brushed unite 36v 1kw at 12s lipo 50.4v 60a so 3kw but a lot of this power is waste heat with the brushed motor and at 70% effeicent and chain and friction losses I get no more than 2kw at the wheel as torque. Because the armature carrys the windings and the whole assembly spins it self cools better than the brushless motor but more spinning mass means it has poor windage and a flywheel affect good for hill climbing but worse for high speed so the brushless motor above will have a higher rpm than brushed but the brushed will have a higher torque figure more turning force, I get 32mph downhill 28mph on the flat and average 20mph it climbs any hill fairly fast geared at 5-1 I do have a thread called razor e3000
Sorry if I confused things but my advice is go 13s and work from there that will be faster.

 

[richtolly]

You could move the rear shocks out half an inch and fit a thin Brushless fan to the end of the motor to suck the air through the motor. They do a 10mm or 15mm 12V fan. Weld a small collar on the end of both shock mountings on both sides so they are further away from the scooter chassis and a thin fan will fit in. You could even use a thermostat mounted on the motor to turn the fan on once a set temp is reached. That should keep the windings a bit cooler thus allowing it to pull more amps.

 

[minde28383]

... I do have a thread called razor e3000 ....

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