Mechanics in Seattle/Dropout Filing

[MadRhino]

I agree that hollow axles are a weak point that should be avoided in the design of hub motors.

Or use a large-diameter thickwalled "pipe" axle, whcih could then carry the wires thru it with plenty of room to spare and still be strong...it wouldn't use axle flats to transmit torque. But it also wouldn't fit in bicycle dropouts.

Hollow axles could be made strong yet small, only not in China. So they would cost more to produce than the whole motor.

 

[zippybike]

That is very strong, stronger that I usually make but, you know you need to make both sides, right?

That's the plan, the hard part is the geometry is asymmetrical. I plan on leaving both sides a little narrow, so I can bolt them in location without the axle and use a long straight file to grind to final width. Clamping type also gives me a little wiggle room.

Or use a large-diameter thickwalled "pipe" axle, whcih could then carry the wires thru it with plenty of room to spare and still be strong...it wouldn't use axle flats to transmit torque. But it also wouldn't fit in bicycle dropouts.

Hopefully someday we get better high torque hub/dropout standards across brands

I'm doing a bunch of research on taps. What is a good screw size for my clamp?

 

[MadRhino]

I'm doing a bunch of research on taps. What is a good screw size for my clamp?

I have the habit of building bikes using standard M5 screws wherever possible. The tap is 5.0 X 0.8

Or, you could use the same as the brake caliper mount, which is M6.

 

[zippybike]

I have the habit of building bikes using standard M5 screws wherever possible. The tap is 5.0 X 0.8

Thanks for the tip, just went and got the proper gear. First hole ever tapped! Now on to the other plate. I appreciate everyone's help!

 

[zippybike]

Got them finished and tightened up, I think it's good to go. I know I'm not the best welder, but I think it's solid.






Only problem is that my wheel is biased to one side (always has been). Is this something that can be fixed with spoke tension?

 

[MadRhino]

Yep. You need to dish the wheel. Unscrew the nipples on the side that it is too close, then screw them the same number of turns on the other side. If the wheel is true right now, do it little at a time. A few turns are making a visible difference.

 

[zippybike]

Thanks a bunch, I'll do that. One full turn good to start with?

 

[MadRhino]

I would start with 3 if the rim drilling is offset. From the pic it does seem to need about 3/8’’

 

[E-HP]

Thanks a bunch, I'll do that. One full turn good to start with?

I have a similar thing going on. Annoyance since it makes my bike lean a little while riding. I have an extra washer on the disc side for clearance, and I'm using a C washer on the other side to clear the freewheel, that I put there "temporarily" a year ago, while waiting for the right washer/spacer (significantly thicker) to arrive. The combo makes the wheel sit closer to the chain side of the bike. I need to switch out the C washer first so I know how much I need to re-dish. Been living with it for a year, just due to laziness/avoiding the hassle of taking off the wheel.

 

[zippybike]

I would start with 3 if the rim drilling is offset. From the pic it does seem to need about 3/8’’

Thanks for the advice, it's perfect now

I have a similar thing going on. Annoyance since it makes my bike lean a little while riding.

Mine was tracking fine, but was making a zip zip zip sound where the rubber was barely hitting the frame. Cards in the spokes sounds much better though.

 

[E-HP]

That turned out great. Maybe I should do that to avoid replacing the washer for a while longer :lol:

 

[MadRhino]

Once you dished a wheel, you can true one as well. Trueing a wheel, is just partial dishing after all.

Keep your wheels true and tight. Not only they will ride better, but they will last longer, and survive harder hits as well.

 

[zippybike]

That turned out great. Maybe I should do that to avoid replacing the washer for a while longer :lol:

Do it! Turns out I only needed 1 turn to each to get it over that much. I'm going to take it in for a re tensioning after about 50 miles or so, so I was comfortable trying it myself.

Once you dished a wheel, you can true one as well. Trueing a wheel, is just partial dishing after all.

Keep your wheels true and tight. Not only they will ride better, but they will last longer, and survive harder hits as well.

Sound advice, I'm a little scared to mess around too much with trueing, but I'm sure I'll dive in at some point. I appreciate all the info!

 

[zippybike]

Just finished my first worry-free ride, seems like everything is tight and secure. I gotta do some work on the brakes and rear derailleur but I think the hardest task is finished! Time to start on the 12v systems and the homemade servo shifter.