Metallover's RC Build

[Metallover]

I am pretty happy with my hub bike, but I figure I'll risk losing it to build another bike! I'll re-use most of the electric parts from my old bike, but replace the motor.

With my new build I need a decent 26" dual suspension mountain bike. I'll run a drive through the cranks, like Timma2500 and Burtie have done. I will use a banebots 16:1 gearbox. I may harden or even add bearings to the internal gears if I feel the need.

After looking at how the banebots gearbox has done with Tim's build, I figured I would mess with a slipper clutch to try to protect my drivetrain from the torque. Here is a design I drew up with my plans.

Feel free to marvel at my awesome Kolourpaint skills.

The whole left side is expanded in the picture. The two red parts will be affixed to the shaft and pressure will be applied with the two green nuts. I'll need some "slipper material" to place between the sprocket and the slipper pads. The dark grey rectangles are bearing blocks. I will put the freewheel at the output of the gearbox on either side of the black line, I don't know which side yet. I'll figure it out when I get the bike and see where I need it.

RE-USE
12fet Controller, Six 5000mah 20c Turnigy Packs, Throttle, Watt Meter, Tires, GPS,

GET
Motor, Bike, Metal, Cranks, Freewheels, Wire, Sprockets, Belt, Chain, Freewheel Adapter, Hall Sensors, 2x VT Monitors, Sprockets, Bearings............

I am planning on running 12s 15ah pack. I hope to get 4-5kw peaks at 100a. I'll have temperature alarms on the motor and in the controller, and I can add cooling to the controller if needed.

Please shoot me some suggestions and comments. I need to know a nice bike to get. I don't want to spend more than $200. That is my biggest fear right now.

 

[recumpence]

On my recumbent slipper clutch, I used hard leather for the friction material. It is hard like wood, it is very long wearing, and very consistant in amount of friction.

I would recommend beleville washers as springs. They are cup (or cone) shaped washers designed to be used as very low profile springs. You can stack multiple springs in either top to bottom orientation or top to top, then bottom to bottom orientation to either increase or decrease the spring rate to fine tune the setup.

I got mine from Mcmaster-Carr.

Matt

 

[Metallover]

Awesome! I'm glad I'm not the first one to do a slipper! I found pictures and info on your slipper - they will help out immensely.

Thanks for the info!

 

[recumpence]

Also, for $60 you can buy a slipper from McMaster-Carr.

Matt

 

[Metallover]

Ahh, I checked McMaster earlier, and just checked again but I couldn't find it. Maybe you can direct me to it?

 

[AussieJester]

"Twisted by the darkside young Metallover has become, the boy on a frock gone he is "

Wanting to see more on this slipper clutch setup too! Good luck mate

KiM

 

[Metallover]

LOL Thanks for the motivation KiM! I'll be leaving for a week goin to Kansas so no progress then but hopefully some more parts will be ordered soon!

I have been looking for new bikes for the past month or so and I haven't found anything close to what I want in the area so I think I'll upgrade/replace the brakes, chain, and maybe the rear shock and re-use my blackcomb.

It's a pretty long distance for the chain to go, I'll probably need to add a tensioner in there. If there are any problems foreseen let me know.

And here are a couple updated pictures of the drive. Please take note of the "spring" washer in the second picture that I left out earlier. :wink:

EDIT - I worked out the drive and rpms. I want to use two 48t chainrings in the front and a 16t ENO. I will have two equally sized sprockets for the belt. If I figure 6000rpm for the motor, 6000/16=375*(16/48)=125*(48/11)=545rpm in top gear which is 45mph. At 44.4v nominal I'll get about 5772rpm figuring 130kv so top speed will probably be closer to 41mph with 26.5" tires... With a load top speed will hopefully be upper 30's.?.?

Conversely in the lowest gear top speed will be a measly 15mph. Think how steep of a hill I could climb with that gearing!

 

[Metallover]

I am ordering parts form sickbikeparts. I have a FW adapter, FW removal tool, FW Crank arms, ENO front freewheel, two 48t sprockets with a chain guard, and some hardware. Total was $165 after shipping.

I'll have to place an order with mcmaster for bearings, metal, pulleys, belt etc. I'll also have to get a 16t ENO and order my hobbycity stuff including the motor once the damn thing is in stock.

Where is the best place to get the halls? Which halls do I need?

 

[Metallover]

I got my sickbikeparts order today.

I want to drill out my sprockets to lighten them up a little, tell me what you think

And should I run 66.6v or 44.4v? The motor is spec'd to 48v, but if I limit the amps I should have a cooler more efficient system on 66v? Gearing shouldn't be a problem I have room for it.

 

[Metallover]

Last night I ordered a bunch of parts from hobbycity, including my motor. I used EMS express shipping, which was $20 more. :| The whole thing cost me $217.

Turnigy 80-100-B 130Kv Brushless Outrunner
2x Hobby King Voltage & Temperature Monitor 2-6 (one for motor and one for controller)
4 meters of 10ga wire
30 pairs of 4mm bullet connectors
4 meters of servo wire
40 pairs of servo connectors
5 female 6s balance plugs
10 alligator clips
Medium strength thread locker
200 small washers
10 snap-point knives
Lots of heat shrink and wire mesh

Now I need a 16t ENO, hall sensors, and my McMaster order. I'll try to get 'em ordered soon!

Is it OK to run chain directly from the motor to the clutch? Can it handle the RPMs? #35 chain would be easy.

 

[Rassy]

You're using some of the same parts I used on my trike's mid-drive, including the freewheel crank arms and ENO front freewheel from Sick. I ordered my 16t ENO freewheel from Bikeman for $69.95 plus $10.55 shipping. I have purchased several things from Bikeman this year and they have been real good to work with.

I started with a Shimano 16t freewheel on the motor and it only lasted 30 miles. The ENO is going strong after several hundred miles, but it is the noisiest thing on the bike, even noisier than the motor. Sometimes when pedaling only at slow speed I use the motor just to get the freewheel to stop clicking.

Edit: I didn't have quite enough clearance for the front freewheel, and ground off the "removal" flanges to fit it in. The best solution is to use a bottom bracket with a longer axle, but I live way out in the sticks and just wanted to get it done. It's working okay, but I'll never be able to remove the freewheel from the crankarm.