Mobility scooter

02jze

1 kW
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
348
Location
Brisbane, Australia
I have a scooter lined up and i want to make it a monster.
My question is what motor to use. I was crazy wheelspin and wheelstands
Im thinking 100ish volts but what motor ?
Is there any off the shelf motors that can handle those kinda volts ?
What amps would i need and controller to suit ?
They sell controllers off the shelf to suit ?
Just throwing it out there seeking some advice before i go ahead and pick it up.
 
What kind of scooter? Full size like a motorscooter? Or one of those kick scooter things?

Oh snap you mean one of those old lady scooters?
 
Mobility scooter..

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Hrms, with the stock battery setup? Low volts, and its heavy. IIRC I seen a video with an etek but that thing was crazy fast.. sounds like thats what you want though. Maybe a perm or agni. None of those options are cheap, but tons of power there.
 
One simple mod, cut away the back fenders and put on larger wheels... if those are 12" wheels now, going to 14" will increase top speed by near 17%... this assumes you have no significant hills to deal with. Ya can also probably over-volt the existing motor but this may mean adding a blower for cooling.
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02jze said:
i want to do skids. Smoke those rear tyres.
Oh. OK then. Replace those back wheels with small ones... Going from eg 12" to 4" will triple your torque. Add a switch to bypass the controller to give the motor full pack voltage at start (the controller probably has a "soft start" feature built in.) Then you will be able to "lay rubber" anytime. Of course, you will also be being passed by little old ladies all the time too. Maybe add some "flame" decals so it *looks* fast... Wear a motorcycle helmet. Leathers would be wise.
 
FWIW, the motors in some of those things can kick ass, depending on how they are made; I have just one 4-pole brushed motor with gearbox from one side of one of the powerchairs meant for 400+ pounds of person on it, that's on my CrazyBike2, and running that 24V motor at 36V has destroyed things on the bike when stuff goes wrong, including pulling the rear axle out of the dropouts. :shock:

Since that thing will have two motors on it, it will have twice the power. You can put larger wheels on it, if there is clearance, but that will reduce the torque.

Changing out it's controller for one (or two, one for each motor) that can handle higher voltage (same current limit to protect the motors as best you can) will give you more power at the motor, if you then also increase the battery voltage.

Change out the SLA it uses for Lithium packs of one type or another will greatly reduce it's weight. Most of that weight is right in the middle on that one, intended to make it more stable. If you want wheelies, you need to remove as much of that weight as you can, so the lead needs to go. ;)

Keep in mind the original motors are probably on right-angle gearboxes that have output shafts that *are* the wheel axles, if they are like my CrazyBike2's motor. There are also versions that use transaxles, with a single more powerful motor in the center of it, transverse-mounted, with the gearbox and differential inside the transaxle, again with output shafts that are the wheel axles.

Just keep in mind that after you mod the thing it's probably not legal to use anywhere but on your own property. ;)
 
heh this is what I plan to do when I get old and crumbly or end up disabled when I get knocked off my bike... :?
Firstly I'd look at your current drive train and see how it works. They dont look like hubmotors so I assume they're a motorised transaxle. If the motor looks gutsy you would run more juice to it or possibly upgrade it. I'd have a seperate 'burn out switch' to the throttle / controller than basically dumps the full power of the battery straight to the motor (assuming its brushed DC)

Alternatively you could fit 2 10-12" hub motors on the back though and it'd have bulk torque. If you want to do wheelies move the SLAs and/or other battery pack to a low little rack off the back - something off the back of that shopping bag thing or the black 'bumper bar' sorta thing. Shifting the weight there will make the front wheels pop up under hard accelerating. I'd probably put a skateboard wheel or similar under the battery box though to stop you flipping it right up and dragging he battery box - a wheelie bar of sorts.
 
that orion scooter there is probably a lot like the first one pictured, and most likely has solid tires, too. i have a few of those tires around here, collected with the motors and stuff, maybe going to go on the front of my fourwheel trailer.

good news is it's an invacare scooter, probably, so it likely has tough motors in it if they are not worn out already. most of these are setup to run 24v using 2 bit u1-size sla agm or gel batteries, around 6 or 8mph, for like 20 miles or more. also they're usually meant to carry at least 400 pounds of person and cargo on them, in additon to the scooter's own weight.

so again if you replace the sla with lithium at a higher voltage, maybe 48v, and a cotnroller to match, it'd probably do pretty well, assuming it's a 4pole motor which it almost certainly is since they hve lots more torque than the usual 2pole wheelchari motors.

keep in mind the motor will get hotter at the higher voltage if you draw the same current thru it, so if you go lots faster on it than it originally did then the motors will probably need active cooling fans of some type.

most of the these motors are environment-sealed, so cooling the insides where it's important is going to need a filter on the air coming in or it'll get dirt and dust in there you don't want especially with brushed motors.

on crazybike2 the motor hangs down at the bottom of the frame so that air passing under and around the bike frame cools it off, but that air is right off the road surface so in summer it gets kinda hot. ;) i wanted to eventually do some active cooling of it but have yet to get that far.
 
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