mon-goose to MON-STER

Architectonic said:
Hey, that frame design looks interesting, I'll be very impressed when you end up making it.

I have thought about designing my own frame, but there are a lot of technical stuff I don't really understand, especially the suspension. I'm guessing you are going to use a swingarm design similar to an existing downhill bike with a single pivot design and place the pivot in the same effective location on the frame.

All of the articles on mountain bike suspension talk all about the technical details between the different manufacturer designs, but have very little information on actual suspension design, frame geometry and things like pivot location (whether single pivot/virtual pivot (four bar) or otherwise). :(
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I've read a bit about suspension on here, Wikipedia and bike websites like felt, kona,Scott. And wat h a few videos. Also looking at pink bike homemade thread. http://m.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=39840&pagenum=668

I let my mate Trav ride the monster in the hills near his house and he finished up with cells saging into beep zone and thermostat cut in. So then I was going to do a beer run about 30mins later and still wouldnt go. I think the motor got too hot and burnt the halls. Might replace them after breaky if Jaycar has the right component. Probly need some epoxy to I guess. I should have hooked up that NTC thermistor dam it. I'll check that to. I hope this doesn't turn into a mysterious unfixable problem.
 
Here he is... loving it 8)
[youtube]KMR094Itk-o[/youtube]
I checked with multimeter, 1 hall has a funny resistance compared to the other 2 so I'll see if its a loose wire or replace with a hall from Jaycar following the guide in ebikes.ca

Testing
http://www.ebikes.ca/troubleshooting/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf
Replacing
http://www.ebikes.ca/troubleshooting/HubMotorHallSensorReplacement.pdf

Hall from Jaycar
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZD1902
Has same pin layout and voltage / temperature rating so should be ok
 
I just pluged in my thermistor wire that was sitting there ready to go and it worked! WHYYYY?!?! i thought it didnt work. :roll:

oh well thats one less thing to worry about, now i gota pell apart the HT3525 and replace the halls, i got JB weld so i know it can handle the heat.
 
new halls.JPG
so, got ther halls in...
didnt take ages, but was about 1 hr to open the hub and suss all the wires: +,-,signal 1/2/3
and another hr to remove and replace with epoxy. heat shrink douple check wireing etc.

ill put the hub back together and try it tonight :) also try the thermistor with ca v3(like i should have in the begining!)
 
As far as the stator touching, sometimes removing and rotating will cure this, even though I don't know why. Same issue with my 5403 when I split the hub. Upon reassembly, there was drag. Pulled the stator out again rotated, reinstalled, no drag. JUST PITA. From that point on, I knew why every video I have seen showing stator removal the person marked the side covers with the hub shell.

Rick
 
Rix said:
As far as the stator touching, sometimes removing and rotating will cure this, even though I don't know why. Same issue with my 5403 when I split the hub. Upon reassembly, there was drag. Pulled the stator out again rotated, reinstalled, no drag. JUST PITA. From that point on, I knew why every video I have seen showing stator removal the person marked the side covers with the hub shell.

Rick
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thanks, yeah I did mark the side plates position. ill sort it out. the main issue is the signal wires having 5v, gota test all 3, just tested the yellow and had to cook the BBQ. its possible that i over heated the halls when soldering wires on but unlikely. maby the controller is stuffed. blown fets, who knows...
 
OK so I think I had the same issue as cowardlyduck in the stealth thread. Over heated halls when soldered wires on and killed them to :(
Try again soon.
Now I'll have thermistor embeded in the windings I'll be safe :)
Lucky its raining for a few days so I don't fell yo bad.
Btw my windings are a little toasted. :/ I would like to get a few years from this little motor. Its the slowest crystalyte motor I know of and gives a great PPO at low RPM, for the tech geeks.
 
Can I at least suggest you get an ebike tester? When I burnt my first motor the tester came in really handy and for 20 bucks it's worth it. No other easy way to test windings- this makes it so easy with LEDs that flash for each hall and winding.

When I burnt my first motor, it killed the halls, melted the wires inside the hub and axle, toasted the windings to the point that the varnish melted off the wire, demagnetized the magnets and also destroyed the controller. That was after about 15 minutes of riding !

So good luck, but really an ebike tester will show you very quickly what has gone wrong in your hub and/or controller. Good luck!
 
Spicerack said:
Can I at least suggest you get an ebike tester? When I burnt my first motor the tester came in really handy and for 20 bucks it's worth it. No other easy way to test windings- this makes it so easy with LEDs that flash for each hall and winding.

When I burnt my first motor, it killed the halls, melted the wires inside the hub and axle, toasted the windings to the point that the varnish melted off the wire, demagnetized the magnets and also destroyed the controller. That was after about 15 minutes of riding !

So good luck, but really an ebike tester will show you very quickly what has gone wrong in your hub and/or controller. Good luck!
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Thanks . I thought about it but I'll probably have it sorted b4 one could be posted. If I can't work it out I guess I'll get one.
Cheers
 
pendragon8000 said:
OK so I think I had the same issue as cowardlyduck in the stealth thread. Over heated halls when soldered wires on and killed them to :(
Try again soon.
Now I'll have thermistor embeded in the windings I'll be safe :)
Lucky its raining for a few days so I don't fell yo bad.
Btw my windings are a little toasted. :/ I would like to get a few years from this little motor. Its the slowest crystalyte motor I know of and gives a great PPO at low RPM, for the tech geeks.
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I know you are partial to the 3525 there but the 4065 is actually a 4032.5 based on the 36volt standard Clyte rated the 3525 at. With the 6 plus KW you are running, the 4065 would be a better option.

Rick
 
Rix said:
pendragon8000 said:
OK so I think I had the same issue as cowardlyduck in the stealth thread. Over heated halls when soldered wires on and killed them to :(
Try again soon.
Now I'll have thermistor embeded in the windings I'll be safe :)
Lucky its raining for a few days so I don't fell yo bad.
Btw my windings are a little toasted. :/ I would like to get a few years from this little motor. Its the slowest crystalyte motor I know of and gives a great PPO at low RPM, for the tech geeks.
Click to expand...

I know you are partial to the 3525 there but the 4065 is actually a 4032.5 based on the 36volt standard Clyte rated the 3525 at. With the 6 plus KW you are running, the 4065 would be a better option.

Rick
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Thanks for the comparison, I was wondering how they compare.
I really like the high turn wounding of the 3525. I think its 8 and 3540 is 7??
The peak power out put being at lower rpm is pretty cool IMO, just need higher volts to get decent speed. Also higher volts means more power :)
 
The naming convention is annoying, when I was getting them it was either H4080 or H4060 (based on 72v) Then they revised the H4060 naming to 65 but I'm fairly sure it was the same motor and just a naming / more true speed indication as a 5km/hr difference is a bit minimal to be a whole different wind.
And now stealth are calling them based on 48v I believe, so the H4065 is probably actually the same as the 72v H4080 and quite similar to the HS3540.

Anyway Rix speaks the truth. If your HT35 has eaten shit then definately go with the 72v rated H4060/65 - or the H4032.5 on 36v as Rix said :lol:
As for performance the 72v H4065 is very close if not the same in terms of Kv to the HT3525. So that'd be a nice upgrade that will give you the same sort of speeds but a bit more torque and better efficiency / heat tolerance. On 18S lipo it tops out just over 50 (in 24" rims on my fighter) as is quite efficient, not wanting to draw much current for more than a quick spike off the line. On 24S it's much more lively and I dig the extra top end but the efficiency goes out the window with it drawing in excess of 5kw while accelerating where on 18S it'd barely spike 3kw. And for offroading where you're tooling around on technical trails or otherwise on and off the power at low-mid speeds you'll notice a definate increase in its thirst for electrons, and heat.
 
Hyena said:
As for performance the 72v H4065 is very close if not the same in terms of Kv to the HT3525. So that'd be a nice upgrade that will give you the same sort of speeds but a bit more torque and better efficiency / heat tolerance. On 18S lipo it tops out just over 50 (in 24" rims on my fighter) as is quite efficient, not wanting to draw much current for more than a quick spike off the line. On 24S it's much more lively and I dig the extra top end but the efficiency goes out the window with it drawing in excess of 5kw while accelerating where on 18S it'd barely spike 3kw. And for offroading where you're tooling around on technical trails or otherwise on and off the power at low-mid speeds you'll notice a definate increase in its thirst for electrons, and heat.
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Thanks Jay,
So its pretty much the same but more stator, copper and magnet.?

Well sounds good if it will fit a 7 speed 11-32t , maby with a washer or 2?
Also what would I do with my new spokes and rim? The spoke flange looks the same but wider so may just work?
 
pendragon8000 said:
So its pretty much the same but more stator, copper and magnet.?
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Correct. If you have a look back through my thread I'm sure I posted some comparison shots of the H35 and H40. Realistically as the name would suggest it's just an extra 5mm of width so it's just the extra copper, laminations and magnets that come with that.
They shouldn't really be that much more expensive to produce but I guess they're done in smaller quantity and crystalyte is marking them up just because :roll:

Well sounds good if it will fit a 7 speed 11-32t , maby with a washer or 2?
Also what would I do with my new spokes and rim? The spoke flange looks the same but wider so may just work?
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Yeah a 7 speed would be a squeeze but if you spread the frame a few mm with a spacer it'll fit.
And yes the spoke flange is the same but the distance between is wider as you say. It's actually symetrical though so if anything it's better for lacing as it requires no dishing. If your spokes are all the same length you'll be fine. If you ordered some shorter on one side than the other then some might be a tad long but again no biggy. If you've already laced and ridden on the wheel though I'd recommend getting new spokes anyway, reusing spokes is generally not a good idea.
 
Awesome, thanks Man.
I do recall seeing that mentioned in your 100+page thread, but yeah as you were replying here I was reading this post
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36606#p531159
I calculated the spoke length would need to be 1mm longer if the flanges were 50mm instead of 32mm(on the hs3540)
So shouldn't be an issue.
I'll definitely consider it as a replacement if I cant fix the motor.
I was going to do it last night but CFB to the max after work and go to Jaycar pay rent, car over heated too :roll:
I so sick of fixing shit.
Anyway its usually worth it.

Thanks Architectonic, I'll see how I go.

And the spokes are still virgin , I didn't get time to build the wheel yet.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Awesome, thanks Man.
I do recall seeing that mentioned in your 100+page thread, but yeah as you were replying here I was reading this post
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36606#p531159
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haha, one good thing about having a vague memory these days, I can read back through my own thread with interest at the things I wrote 2 years ago :lol:

If you're not in a rush and aren't too concerned with keeping 7 gears on the back I'm in the process of acquiring and testing some lower speed winding motors very similar to the batshit motor I have on my fighter now. They're a tad wider again that the H40 so should be awesome
 
Thanks. I'll think about it but I love pedaling at 55-60kph.
I found this:
H4040 "40kph @ 48v" http://e-mtb.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66&products_id=204&zenid=66ef5c9f5c42a14e8ea9488a84727fea
Is this new?I guess they would be very similar to ht3525.
 
That's heading very rapidly towards Cromotor pricewise.... just sayin..... :twisted:
 
Architectonic said:
Spicerack said:
That's heading very rapidly towards Cromotor pricewise.... just sayin..... :twisted:
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The Cromotor is also very heavy for an off road bike to be ridden on MTB trails...
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Yeah that's it. I like the 35xx series because its light(7KG) but strong and has enough power to launch off jumps.

Anyway, just replaced halls. Waiting for epoxy to dry.
I clamped the legs while soldering with clamping scissors.
productLarge_5956.jpg

Wish me luck :D
 
Ah man bummer about all your probs, just realised now why you were asking me about my 4065...

I had been searching for ages for a piece of paper for all the specs but my mrs just keeps cleaning everything I cant find jack. I even had the specs on a vid I cant locate sorry.

As for cro off road... I am not selling them but I have been off road a few times with newb and the stuff he does on his bike is more than I have seen most people do with a rear hub.

anyways. good luck.
 
pendragon8000 said:
just replaced halls. Waiting for epoxy to dry.
...
Wish me luck :D
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FROCK
I'm crying in my beer wondering why the halls are still not working. Tested fets : OK, tested phases: OK. Must be halls. I have to resurrect this bloody thing. I'm not sure if I got them too hot when shrinking the heat shrink. I had the halls in the stator and clamped the "scissors" on the legs when soldering to help reduce or eliminate heat damage when soldering.

Any advice any one? (Other than bin it... thank you)
I'm gunna have to get a test circuit on there or something.
Edit
Btw tested signal wires and all stay at 5v while turning wheel.
 
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