mon-goose to MON-STER

Rix said:
Pendragon, if welding up side down isn't a factor, try 5/32 or 3/16 inch 7024 electrodes for your welder. This rod can be used vertical and horizontal, oscillating or not, just not overhead and is the easiest rod I have ever used on an arc welder. You will be amazed how pretty the welds come out. BTW, thanks for the info on the thermasistor, appreciate that.

Rick
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Just note there is a difference between thermistor (variable resistor based on temperature) and thermostat (switch based on temperature) sort about my mumbling in the video may have been confusing the two.
Edit
Thanks for the welding advice. Was just a quick tea break post :D
 
I ended up getting Clarkes skeletal 160mm rear.
47542.jpg

I was going to get a handle bar bag as well to hold 12s lipo to take the voltage up to 150v HOC.
And thanks to Kepler for letting me know it will hold 12s 10ah. But I don't like the look of it and don't mind wearing a backpack so I'll set up a booster pack for my bag so we can see what its like to run a ht3525 at
145volt 80amp that should pull full amps up to 60kph with a peak power OUTPUT of 7kw
 
Whoa dude, you can't run 4 off the one power supply. I'm surprised it didn't shut down your PSU.
These need to be run off their own isolated source. Unless they've somehow changed the earthing or something in the new models because previously running 2 units off the one supply caused it to take one of them out.
Double check the voltages you're seeing on the chargers with a known good pack - they should all read the same but what usually happens when you blow these up with a common power supply is it messes with the voltage reading so one or more of the cells will be well out of whack. It still looks OK at a glance but will badly overcharge your packs.

Eg the charger reads a cell at say 2.6v when really it's at 3.6v, so when it charges to what it thinks is 4.2v it's actually 5.2v and obviously that = baaaaadness.
 
really? it seems totally fine. i limited the amps to 2.5 so they are pulling a total of 300watts or so. the voltage input is 11.7V on all 4 of them. ill check the cells with the beepers now and edit this post to confirm ok..
edit
yep all perfectly balanced (+/- 0.05V)

anyway earth is ground through all the power suplies so all the negatives are connected together. on this psu it has 4 seperate 12v lines for a PC I guess they are isolated. or it doesnt matter if the power input of the bc168's can be hooked up off 1 12v line. i suspect they are isolated.
thanks for keeping an eye on me Jay.
PS
obviously i dont have the series plug connected when charging like this.
 
:cry:
Smoke came out if a charger when I turned the power up to 4amps to catch up the unbalanced cells. Only 2 or 3 cells of 6 on each charger were still charging.
I tested the voltage reading of the charger against the reading from a cell monitor beeper and it is still accurate.
It triped the overload on the psu. Smoke was about a few seconds worth of a cigarette.
I'll keep an eye on them now. I Should have taken Hyenas advice more seriously.
 
I went to Craig burn farm bike tracks today with my mate Scope. Had a great ride, no battery issues nothing broke. Hit some jumps and multiple both wheel sliding moments. Got a close view of a family of kangeroos.

Unfortunately today I tried a few of my bc168's 1 at a time a found 1 new one behaves properly. My old one backs off amps a bit early on the positive most cell to 5 amps. 1 new one backs off the amps to less than 1 amp very early. And the 3rd new one:
went pop photos to follow.
So I'll keep the old one and the new good one in commission and get 2 new ones when I get payed so it doesn't hurt so much.
I take responsibility for it but its pretty shit design that it doesn't actually cut off the power when the voltage goes too low and allows itself to self destruct :evil:;
I did some searches but didn't find any cases of this. I have heard of this from Hyena and Architectonic I think.
 
pendragon8000 said:
:cry:
Smoke came out if a charger when I turned the power up to 4amps
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Bummer! I thought it was too good to be true that you could run 4 chargers from an unisolated power source like that and seemed it contrary to everything I'd found myself. If it's any consolation the fact that they didnt pop straight away at low current is an interesting data point. I always use 35-50 amp power supplies so they can draw bulk amps off the bat if they want to.


I Should have taken Hyenas advice more seriously.
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35nksf.jpg


Sorry, couldn't help it. I know blowing up stuff sucks. Atleast I didn't say "told ya so" :p

pendragon8000 said:
kit... yeah if only you could get a 6kw kit
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Check my thread for updates in a few weeks :wink:

John Bozi said:
I thought you guys didn't have as many problems with your kits...
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No problem with the kit, he was trying to run multiple chargers from the one power supply, which unfortunately they're not designed to do.
 
Thanks Jay,
Yeah the fact it worked on 2.5amps / channel led me to a false sense of security I guess.
Well its not like my bike or house burnt down so I should wipe my tears and have a nice warm glass of shut the hell up and order more chargers once I test them on the new psu's and I know if the sus one is dead or not.

6KW ... kit, you say?
 
Well shit the bed Pendragon. At least you got some homemade brew to drown your sorrows in. This is one of those times I learned a lesson from someone else mis fortune. 1 power supply per charger/balancer, adding this to the list I am compiling for Lipos.

Rick
 
Ha Rick, "shit the bed" indeed! I was laughing at that for ages.
Anyway I'm gunna drill my hub this weekend I think
any suggestions?
I don't want gaping holes so I'm thinking 10 or 12mm holes maby 5 every screw (9) =45 holes spaced around perimiter. And then a heap of holes around the centre of the side with thin vent holes probly 12mm or more say 12 holes..
I gotta get the CA heat sensor working to. I think my Ntc thermistor isnt right the ohms seem incorrect value.
 
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MP3080
looking at using one of these as a bulk charger. obvously i would need a bridge rectifyer, aka a ac-dc converter.
would be good for using on different voltage battery packs.
im not sure if the lipo would cane the charger too hard , probly would, might need a 2 stage deal with a resistor like a 240v fillament light globe or something.
500watt bulk charger with multi voltage, you know... not bad. :|
 
pendragon8000 said:
I don't want gaping holes so I'm thinking 10 or 12mm holes maby 5 every screw (9) =45 holes spaced around perimiter.
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I wouldnt put too many. It's up to you but I'm normally a bit conservative and would only put 1-2 holes every screw hole and then evenly spaced where allowable around the centre. On the crystalytes I go inbetween the gaps for the raised disc mount. Different people have different ideas about what works but this is how I've always done it and I think Justins air cooling tests recently showed this to be effective.

Drifts look cool, nice work.
Oh and I'd give that power supply a miss, there's better and cheaper ways to bulk charge. You'd land a commercial 900w charger for less than that and it'll be plug and play
 
Hyena said:
pendragon8000 said:
I don't want gaping holes so I'm thinking 10 or 12mm holes maby 5 every screw (9) =45 holes spaced around perimiter.
Click to expand...
I wouldnt put too many. It's up to you but I'm normally a bit conservative and would only put 1-2 holes every screw hole and then evenly spaced where allowable around the centre. On the crystalytes I go inbetween the gaps for the raised disc mount. Different people have different ideas about what works but this is how I've always done it and I think Justins air cooling tests recently showed this to be effective.

Drifts look cool, nice work.
Oh and I'd give that power supply a miss, there's better and cheaper ways to bulk charge. You'd land a commercial 900w charger for less than that and it'll be plug and play
Click to expand...
thanks
re the charger yeah true its just i wana play with different voltages. and the kit you sold me wel the lipo is saging like a grannys vagaga!! ok well its not that bad, but its definately worth LOOKING INTO. ugh :( .. whatever.. im probly going 20s nano on that one and turn the shock around to fit it in..
anyway..
thanks for the input on the cooling holes.
Justins test definately didnt test the structural integrity so yeah, the one where there are only about 15% of the side plate left going to the magnet ring is a bit of a worry, more so for hard tails but still not heaps of maetal for a dualy , but the proven cooling effect is tempting right? im more woried about little rocks n sh!t getting in my hub to be honnest.
 
pendragon8000 said:
the lipo is saging like a grannys vagaga!!
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Mine is too, on both the bikes I regularly ride. Have you noticed it particuarly in the last month or two ? I think the cold weather has alot to do with it. This is well documented obviously but I always thought it needed to be closer to zero. My commuter which has maybe 100 cycles on the 18S 10ah battery is sagging hard from the get go and hits LVC with a 2C load after only 5ah which is pretty lousy. If I take it easy I've had it up to 7-8ah but then it's pretty much done. I know Rix commented he got really poor range from his bomber in winter when the temps were really low. Something like only ~30% capacity from memory.

20S nano will go hard!

And yeah I dont like to drill too much because of the structural integrity. I've always had good results with those size and number of holes. But it doesnt hurt to fit a thermostat just incase.
I'll send you a 120oC one if you like. I wouldn't worry about rocks etc, I've never had an issue with motors I've opened up a year later. Riding through mud would be my only concern.
 
mud hmm yeah.. i guess that a fair call.
the thermostat yes ill pm you regarding that, i have100ºc atm (btw get º symbol by typing 167 on num pad and holding alt im a nerd at heart)
anyway the weather.. well the monster has prety fresh lipo and doesnt just shit on the scott spark but actually makes it seem like its older techn ology or something.. in the same weather conditions. maby more cycled lipo sags worse in cold weather. well just saying that is something you would expect to hear but when it happens after 9 months it's a bit sucky. anyway yeah bring on the nanotech's carbon nano tubes of glory :)
 
Mine is too, on both the bikes I regularly ride. Have you noticed it particuarly in the last month or two ? I think the cold weather has alot to do with it. This is well documented obviously but I always thought it needed to be closer to zero. My commuter which has maybe 100 cycles on the 18S 10ah battery is sagging hard from the get go and hits LVC with a 2C load after only 5ah which is pretty lousy. If I take it easy I've had it up to 7-8ah but then it's pretty much done. I know Rix commented he got really poor range from his bomber in winter when the temps were really low. Something like only ~30% capacity from memory.
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Yes Jay your memory serves you very well. At -24C I didn't get hardly any mileage, about 30% of what I normally get. Cant remember the exact miles I posted it on the Stealth thread, but if I recall, I think it was around 7 miles before bouncing off the LVC and then going completely dead.

Rick
 
I'll have to get mum to knit me a lipo warmer for mass hey.

So my options are basically
A:
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B:
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I guess after thinking about how I ride basically I smash the wheel around so I need strength . And I guess debris getting in isn't really that much of a worry. I choose not to ride on sand or through water.
 
Rix said:
Yes Jay your memory serves you very well. At -24C I didn't get hardly any mileage
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Ack, mem memory only serves me half well, I didnt remember it as THAT cold. Brrrrr

Ken, I'd go option B, but only every second hole, or option A with slots 2/3rds that size at most
 
For those who wish to use thin slots instead of larger holes (to keep gravel out of the motor), I recommend avoiding sharp and square corners on the cuts. Rounded corners are best to reduce stress-crack propagation. I'd recommend drilling round holes at each end of the proposed slot location in the beginning, and then cutting the slot up to the round hole.
 
spinningmagnets said:
For those who wish to use thin slots instead od larger holes (to keep gravel out of the motor), I recommend avoiding sharp and square corners on the cuts. Rounded corners are best to reduce stress-crack propagation. I'd recommend drilling round holes at each end of the proposed slot location in the beginning, and then cutting the slot up to the round hole.
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Thanks. That's a good idea. That's pretty much what I did on the radial little slots on the disk side cover. But I made the outer ends flat to help let debris and water out. I think I'll probly do lots of large holes because of the stupid amount of effort it took to make the slots before. On the other hand doing 9 big slots wouldn't be too hard.
 
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