edlog20
100 µW
This build was very easy.
Bbs02/hd 73mm slots in without any need for spacers or bushes in the bottom bracket.
40 tooth Gustave chainring
20ah 48v battery.
Goes good down hills!
Mondraker Summum
- Thread starter edlog20
- Start date
This build was very easy.
Bbs02/hd 73mm slots in without any need for spacers or bushes in the bottom bracket.
40 tooth Gustave chainring
20ah 48v battery.
Goes good down hills!
scianiac
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
- Messages
- 621
Nice build, I love to see more real mountain bikes converted to serious ebikes and intended for actual trail riding. I bet you could save some weight easy by replacing the ratchet straps with something lighter. Most of my batteries are strapped on like that with various means, my favorite is a couple of bands of 300-500lb dyneema fishing line, basically weightless, plenty strong, easy to get real tight. Still trying some options for ways batteries I want to remove from the bike, possibly those giant velcro straps or something.
edlog20
100 µW
The ratchets are good for that so you can swap out the battery for longer rides. The battery plate is held on by a couple tiny self tapping screws it does hold itself up meaning you can loosen off the ratchet, swap out battery then retighten quite easily without undoing the ratchet strap from the frame.
This thing does weigh a alot (~25kg) so I might keep an eye out for smaller ratchets or something.
Any other weight saving ideas?
This only second bike I've built. First was giant trance but the motor position was way too low. This frame is much better.
This thing does weigh a alot (~25kg) so I might keep an eye out for smaller ratchets or something.
Any other weight saving ideas?
This only second bike I've built. First was giant trance but the motor position was way too low. This frame is much better.
scianiac
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
- Messages
- 621
Ah yeah an easily removable, light and strong strap is still something I've been considering. I wish somebody made like a super light ratchet strap type thing. Like velcro clinch straps would probably work and you can only get them tightish. It's the mechanical advantage that is the trick. Honestly I could do it pretty quick with a larger diameter rope, paracord although it's kinda stretchy and the appropriate knot arrangement. I use para cord in such an arrangement on one bike, it would be pretty quick an easy to loosen them enough to get the battery out depending on how fancy I made the backup knot. You may want to just play around with it. Also I use this to hold various other parts on the bike and together, just weightless mounting of things.
The basic idea is you are making a loop with a versatackle with 3 strands in the tackle system (not including the one you're pulling on). I generally use directional figure 8s for the loops. You kind have to plan out the knot positions but once you do it a few times it's easy. Now you just tighten it up and it will auto lock (because the end you are pulling on gets sucked under the other one in the loop), you can get it extremely tight depeding how slippery things are. Very quick to release and re-tighten as long as you don't undo the whole thing. But you do need to put a half hitch or two to lock off the end, that's the trick how to get a slick way of undoing those. And keeping the loose end tidy.
Honeslty though while I do lots of crazy things to shave tiny bits of weight off my bike because it's fun I actually think it doesn't matter that much depending how you are riding. I think all that weight, centered and down low improves handling in some areas. For one the ratio of sprung to unsprung mass I swear makes the bike ride nicer in the rough stuff.
The real way to save a ton of weight is with a smaller battery or one with the highest density cells you can get away with. Someday I'll get around to that.
Depending if you are pedaling at all and your height I also like shorter cranks, kinda feels easier to move around on the bike.
The basic idea is you are making a loop with a versatackle with 3 strands in the tackle system (not including the one you're pulling on). I generally use directional figure 8s for the loops. You kind have to plan out the knot positions but once you do it a few times it's easy. Now you just tighten it up and it will auto lock (because the end you are pulling on gets sucked under the other one in the loop), you can get it extremely tight depeding how slippery things are. Very quick to release and re-tighten as long as you don't undo the whole thing. But you do need to put a half hitch or two to lock off the end, that's the trick how to get a slick way of undoing those. And keeping the loose end tidy.
Honeslty though while I do lots of crazy things to shave tiny bits of weight off my bike because it's fun I actually think it doesn't matter that much depending how you are riding. I think all that weight, centered and down low improves handling in some areas. For one the ratio of sprung to unsprung mass I swear makes the bike ride nicer in the rough stuff.
The real way to save a ton of weight is with a smaller battery or one with the highest density cells you can get away with. Someday I'll get around to that.
Depending if you are pedaling at all and your height I also like shorter cranks, kinda feels easier to move around on the bike.
edlog20
100 µW
Weight was the reason I went for the bbs02 rather than the HD. It's been 2 years and I'm still not sure if I made the right decision there haha.
If my current battery was to crap out I would consider replacing with 2 smaller ones that fit on the same slide rail.
I'm basically pedaling all the time (going up) unless I need a nudge going round a berm. What cranks/size do you recommend? I've only used a the stock ones as the ones off the doner bikes aren't compatible. Some smaller ones (150ish) would reduce pedal strike.
If my current battery was to crap out I would consider replacing with 2 smaller ones that fit on the same slide rail.
I'm basically pedaling all the time (going up) unless I need a nudge going round a berm. What cranks/size do you recommend? I've only used a the stock ones as the ones off the doner bikes aren't compatible. Some smaller ones (150ish) would reduce pedal strike.
