Monster 219 0r #35 0 Runout Freewheel Sprocket Hub

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Ebikeor

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0 back lash freewheel approach. When you use a freehub driver such as a Sram Dual Drive or a single speed freehub driver, the larger the hub sprocket you use the more backlash of the the paws from the freehub will be effecting the amount of backlash and sprocket run out. The bicycle type of freewheels added to the freehub driver have more backlash than the freehub drivers plus a lot more run out that is multiplied by the OD of the large sprockets. The engagement from just the paws in the freehub can cause damage to them when speed shifting under loads from high torque motors above 2000 watts of power. The extra larger bang from a bicycle freewheel will usually take out the freewheel before the freehub paws but both can be damaged when over looking the clunk effects.
In going to a higher quality and and stronger parts than bicycle parts have to offer there is a cost effective way to mitigate the problems you will incur at some point.
It's not if but when! With a large chain sprocket the hub run out or a sprocket that does NOT wobble at all is very important to get the best efficiency of your drive train and have it last many years with minimal maintenance.
What may be helpful are parts to achieve this at a cost effective price. Depending if some parts can be modified or completely made to order from existing suppliers of these parts would need to be researched for cost.
The base parts would be a industrial 35mm CSK freewheel and shim to be press fit onto a freehub driver. The cost would be $25. for the freewheel plus the cost for a custom shim to be made and pressing it together. The next most important part is a $40. 50mm ID gokart type sprocket hub that can be bored to 70mm to fit the OD of the CSK freewheel/bearing OD for a clamp on fit. Research will need to be done to determine if the sprocket hub clamping bolts will be missed when boring from 50mm to the 70mm ID size required of the sprocket hub. The next thing to take into consideration is if you can take the hub width down to at least .75" by a mill or a lathe. Once a prototype is made a gokart sprocket hub manufacture would give a excellent price for making them in lots of 100 or so. About $40. each or less!
With a standard 6 hole gokart sprocket bolt pattern there many gokart sprocket companies that will make you any type of sprockets with many sprocket blanks to choose from. There is already a great slection of many #35 and #219 sprockets that work well for Ebikes. Rocket Sprockets could even make some large dia skip tooth 219 or #35 sprockets for your needs.
freewheel.jpg

50mmto70mmboresprocketh.jpg

skiptooth219.jpg

extronprosprocket.jpg
 
I like the idea, but if the pic of the aluminum hub adapter is the 50mm bore, then opening it up to 70mm (20mm is 40% increase of 50mm) it would definitely cut into where the clamping bolts pass through.

I had a roller-locked ratchet wrench once, smooth operation, no slop, and I abused it to a suprising degree without it ever breaking. CSK bearings are readily available so a large-diameter #219 sprocket adapter that uses a common CSK bearing would be interesting.
 
Freeehub bodies are thin-walled and designed for being stressed axially (by tightening the lockring) and not circumferentially. The installation preload necessary to keep a large CSK bearing/clutch from slipping may not even be possible to apply to a normal freehub body without breaking it.

If you have done such a conversion and it has proven to be reliable in use, please post pictures here.

Chalo
 
Chalo said:
Freeehub bodies are thin-walled and designed for being stressed axially (by tightening the lockring) and not circumferentially. The installation preload necessary to keep a large CSK bearing/clutch from slipping may not even be possible to apply to a normal freehub body without breaking it.
You can use Sprag clutches without any pre-load, you just need to de-rate accordingly.....

Please don't encourage Randy to post any more pics, Chalo!!! :)
 
Miles said:
Chalo said:
Freeehub bodies are thin-walled and designed for being stressed axially (by tightening the lockring) and not circumferentially. The installation preload necessary to keep a large CSK bearing/clutch from slipping may not even be possible to apply to a normal freehub body without breaking it.
You can use Sprag clutches without any pre-load, you just need to de-rate accordingly....

I'm not even talking about the sprags slipping in the clutch-- I'm talking about spinning the whole CSK unit around on the freehub body. That will happen unless there is quite a lot of press fit interference-- but use enough interference and it'll probably bust the freehub body.

We know that Randy affixed a freewheel to a Sachs 3x7 hub by skinning the threads out of the freewheel, notching the ID of the freewheel and the OD of the freehub body, and keying them together with 1/16" round pins. I can only imagine that the foreseeable breakage of the freehub spline shell (by splitting along the notches) happened a long time ago, unless the gearbox gave out first. Otherwise Randy would still be promoting that approach to the problem.

The distinctive thing about Randy's technical pipe dreams is they are long on half-baked sounding ideas but oddly devoid of working examples. Even if his writing style weren't so idiosyncratic, I might be able to identify his ever-shifting aliases by that characteristic alone.

Chalo
 
Chalo said:
I'm not even talking about the sprags slipping in the clutch-- I'm talking about spinning the whole CSK unit around on the freehub body. That will happen unless there is quite a lot of press fit interference-- but use enough interference and it'll probably bust the freehub body.
Sorry Chalo, I mistook what you were referring to. I don't think using a press fit is a practical method, either.....

Anyway, Randy/Ebikor can no longer respond to this thread, so I think we should end this here.
 
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