Motor identification

[daxwert]

Hi,
I got following motor that I'm considering using for an electric moto conversion,

My problem is that I don't know what kind of controller would run this motor and control the speed. Its from a nissan E-4WD System out of a Nissan March I think.

I did get the motor running on direct connection to a battery. It seems to have tons of torque even compared to a goldcart motor.

Connection as in last image:
A - Neg to Battery,
B - Pos to Battery,
C - Pos to Aux(low volt) Battery,
D - Neg to Aux(low volt) Battery,
E & F - joined together (No Idea on function)

When connecting only A and B i blow a 100am fuse( on first try it welded my cables) so i need to connect C and D first.
When A B C & D are connected it spins drawing about 18amps (38 amps peak) at 48v. when i then remove C or D while running, it starts spinning much faster. (unfortunately no RPM meter to check the difference) but no blowing of fuse.

Does someone have an idea what kind of DC motor this is? Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[fictivedesigns]

This is a separately excited DC motor- your rotor connections are A/B and your field connections are C/D. There are controllers out there that can take advantage of SepEx motors, or you could just connect C/D to a battery and use A/B like a traditional brushed DC motor.

E/F could be a bunch of things- temperature sensor, tachometer, position sensor, electromagnetic clutch... seems like whatever it is, it doesn't care about polarity since the two wires going off into the motor are the same color.

Some basic principles here- A/B is what makes your motor spin. C/D changes motor behavior.
More voltage (and thus more current) through coil C/D means the motor will spin slower with more torque.
Less voltage (and thus less current) through coil C/D means the motor will spin faster with less torque.

If you're familiar with brushless motors, more current through coil C/D means KV decreases and KT increases. Less current through C/D means the opposite.

 

[daxwert]

Thank You. :thumb: That was my suspicion. I read up on it and now i understand the principle. Shame that sepex controllers seam to be dying out. Cant find anything above 48v.

Follow up Question:

I do have another question to a different motor.
I have this high power gen/alternator out of the Nissan e-4wd system. I have played around with it and converted it to run as a 3phase motor and i got it running with a small ebike controller(KT48ZWSRLT-LCD). Its a permanent magnet type. It spins but
unfortunately i dont seem to be getting any torque out of it. when running loaded it just blibs and at times changes direction.
Any ideas?

 

[fictivedesigns]

Are you referencing this paper? http://www.hitachi.com/rev/pdf/2004/r2004_04_102_3.pdf

The alternator here is pretty much standard, maybe with a small amount of permanent magnet assist. There is a rotor field winding powered by slip rings. You need to power this and it works pretty much the same way as coils C/D in your other motor. This time, coils A/B are three-phase instead of DC.

Polarity matters here, for best results I believe you need to connect the rotor winding so that it assists the magnets. If you connected it the wrong way you would waste some coil power fighting the magnets.

The rotor field winding in an alternator is used to adjust the back-emf voltage generated by the 3-phase stator winding. The regulator unit inside the alternator uses the rotor winding to tweak the KV so you get constant generated voltage over the engine's RPM range.

People have guides on how to use alternators as motors, eg: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKqy3rRWJQE&feature=emb_title

 

[daxwert]

Thank you for the reply.
I have converted a bunch few alternators and ran them on the controller.
The curious thing about this one was that I could run it without the field windings being powered. I had soldered wires to it thinking it would be the same as the the regular alternators. I guess the PM are what enables it to run without C/D connected but at a lower output.
I will try to connect different voltages on it now. maybe i will get the torque that way.

Thanks again. Will try this before going BLDC.