MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

[Doctorbass]

Sprayon emal rust protection

I used this kind of protection on every of my hub motor and never experienced any problem with them.

I also replaced the 13 gauge ( that look like 14 gauge) by real phase wires 10 gauge direct from in and out of the axel! This shold be overkill for a 4T motor and itMS ... just ... perfect !

Tomorrow i will try adding find on the inside of the side cover and will paint in black with the Krylon Ultra flat black paint that is also good in the IR range for the emissivity.

I have baked the paint to 100 degree C for about 8 hours. This dractiscly change the hardness of it and it is more robust and will not easy scratch when magnets rotor will be reassembled together.

I also painted the rotor magnets as a well as the steel expose area. But i have baked it at 60 Celsius to avoid demagnetizing magnets.

I have added DP420 epoxy to the side of all magnets and also in the crack between eahc magnets si water can not infiltrate and magnets will NEVER unbound due to rust that could push on the bottom of the magnets and unbound them like it happened for few members here. The rim you see is the 19 inches x 1.6 sold by John Holmes that i will install a heavy 5 pounds Sinko 241 on it.

Doc



Doc

 

[John Bozi]

On ES FB a guy claims a broken axle on his mxus 3000w 4t.

Little info has been provided but it's causing a bit of a stir.

It's a big issue because I have personally experienced my clyte 4065 break recently and have followed this thread for a replacement motor.

I am guessing if you stick to the road and ride like a frocker all would be well either way.

I blame my terrain the most for braking and would punt on mxus to ride stuff a geared motor should.

Makes me wonder if I really need all that acceleration and weight.... oh the fun that's right.,,,,, duh.

Usually broken axel will most occur when there is more torque on one side of the axel... in fact when the torque arm or dropout take all torque while the other doesn't... or when people buy a set of Torque arm thinking they are good for two setup ( one t_A only per setup... lol) that's not enough!

using two T-A is multiplying by 4 the strenght of a single T-A can take.

Doc

Would you expect the side with the torque arm to break or the side without? In my case, the strongest torque arm (connected to disc brake mounts) was the side it broke on and the drive side (with grin universal style one) didn't..... In the pictures on facebook his drive side broke but not sure which side he had a torque arm.

Your paint job looks serious.... I prefer clear (I used elmotherm) so I can see the wiring colours.

 

[Doctorbass]

Usually broken axel will most occur when there is more torque on one side of the axel... in fact when the torque arm or dropout take all torque while the other doesn't... or when people buy a set of Torque arm thinking they are good for two setup ( one t_A only per setup... lol) that's not enough!

using two T-A is multiplying by 4 the strenght of a single T-A can take.

Doc

Would you expect the side with the torque arm to break or the side without? In my case, the strongest torque arm (connected to disc brake mounts) was the side it broke on and the drive side (with grin universal style one) didn't..... In the pictures on facebook his drive side broke but not sure which side he had a torque arm.

Your paint job looks serious.... I prefer clear (I used elmotherm) so I can see the wiring colours.[/quote]

As wel the side with the torqur arm will break is there is only one torque arm.. it'S pretty easy to understand.. the T-A dont make your axel to break.. it'S the overload of torque this side of the axel have that breake it. That's why i always sell torque arm in PAIR as i think it MUST be that way.

No need to see the wire colors inside the motor.. I preffer to connect the controller to the wires outside.. it's much easier! :lol:

anyway.. i never use colors except to see the positive and negative of the hall and temp sensor... That's teh paint most industrial motor repair shop use. They preffer it coloured because they know if it is coated uniform and dont lack of coat on some area!

Doc

 

[John Bozi]

yeah I was refering to hall sensor repairs....

cheers

 

[Rix]

Sprayon emal rust protection

I used this kind of protection on every of my hub motor and never experienced any problem with them.

I also replaced the 13 gauge ( that look like 14 gauge) by real phase wires 10 gauge direct from in and out of the axel! This shold be overkill for a 4T motor and itMS ... just ... perfect !

Tomorrow i will try adding find on the inside of the side cover and will paint in black with the Krylon Ultra flat black paint that is also good in the IR range for the emissivity.

I have baked the paint to 100 degree C for about 8 hours. This dractiscly change the hardness of it and it is more robust and will not easy scratch when magnets rotor will be reassembled together.

I also painted the rotor magnets as a well as the steel expose area. But i have baked it at 60 Celsius to avoid demagnetizing magnets.

I have added DP420 epoxy to the side of all magnets and also in the crack between eahc magnets si water can not infiltrate and magnets will NEVER unbound due to rust that could push on the bottom of the magnets and unbound them like it happened for few members here. The rim you see is the 19 inches x 1.6 sold by John Holmes that i will install a heavy 5 pounds Sinko 241 on it.

Doc



Doc

Nicely done Doc. You put a lot more effort into that than I did in mine, I only vented and sprayed everything with t9 Boeshield. I didn't thing about filling in the magnet gaps with expoxy, I did spray a heavy coat of T9 on the magnets as well thought.

 

[Allex]

Doc, very nice, I see a lot of man hours lost during that process!. Tell us how you fit 10AWG in there, I see you use Turnigy cables. One Q about the loose wires around the stator, if one of them sticking out it would technically mean that they would heat up faster because of lower heat dissipation- would this make it the weakest point on the windings?

 

[Doctorbass]

it would technically mean that they would heat up faster because of lower heat dissipation- would this make it the weakest point on the windings?

That s a good question and i am not sure these would heat faster. If these copper wires are a little appart they should have better airflow so in fact they should be better cooled than when being stacked together with the rest of the winding...

Doc

 

[kriskros]

WOW!! that is a lot of power... I run 14s,a123 20amp battery.. 36 to72v ,40amp controller.. sped wqill be about 50k... just finishing building wood trike.. I have wod two wheel also.. thanks for the info..it is a bit too much motor for me

 

[Stielz]

Nice work as always Doc.

Can anyone confirm the spoke length for the Mxus Hub motor in a 19" moto wheel, single cross lacing pattern?

My measurements give a spoke length calculation of 124.2mm, does that sound right?

I know that the ERD of 19" rims may vary slightly for different makes.

Cheers,
Alex

 

[9lives]

Nice work as always Doc.

Can anyone confirm the spoke length for the Mxus Hub motor in a 19" moto wheel, single cross lacing pattern?

My measurements give a spoke length calculation of 124.2mm, does that sound right?

I know that the ERD of 19" rims may vary slightly for different makes.

Cheers,
Alex

For what it is worth I went with 127mm for my 19" rim single cross with no issues. 124 sounds like it is in the ballpark.

 

[chucho]

Nice work as always Doc.

Can anyone confirm the spoke length for the Mxus Hub motor in a 19" moto wheel, single cross lacing pattern?

My measurements give a spoke length calculation of 124.2mm, does that sound right?

I know that the ERD of 19" rims may vary slightly for different makes.

Cheers,
Alex

Someone PM'd me about the ERD for the Prowheel racing 19x1.4 rim. I measured mine last night with 18mm long nipples and came up with 471mm for an ERD. I am posting this here as I can't remember who asked, and I deleted the email. I appologize to that guy. I get lots of PMs about wheel builds and this one slid through the cracks so to speak. :?

That could be you Stielz

 

[teslanv]

Nice work as always Doc.

Can anyone confirm the spoke length for the Mxus Hub motor in a 19" moto wheel, single cross lacing pattern?

My measurements give a spoke length calculation of 124.2mm, does that sound right?

I know that the ERD of 19" rims may vary slightly for different makes.

Cheers,
Alex

127mm or 128mm works nicely for 19" Moto rims.

 

[Rix]

Nice work as always Doc.

Can anyone confirm the spoke length for the Mxus Hub motor in a 19" moto wheel, single cross lacing pattern?

My measurements give a spoke length calculation of 124.2mm, does that sound right?

I know that the ERD of 19" rims may vary slightly for different makes.

Cheers,
Alex

Someone PM'd me about the ERD for the Prowheel racing 19x1.4 rim. I measured mine last night with 18mm long nipples and came up with 471mm for an ERD. I am posting this here as I can't remember who asked, and I deleted the email. I appologize to that guy. I get lots of PMs about wheel builds and this one slid through the cracks so to speak. :?

That could be you Stielz

If that was you Stielz, I apologize.
RIck

 

[Doctorbass]

2WD MXUS Adaptto NYX project: Preparing the motor match teh front White Brother fork axel.

Today i extracted the axel from the stator with a hydraulic press. It requires only about 800 pounds to hear the "TAK" sound meaning that it is unstick and then about 350 pounds to extract it completly. The axel is using a KEYWAY instead of SPLINE like C-Lyte are using..

The bearing are 6003RS ( 35mm O.D. and 17mm I.D.) The largest diameter of the stock axel is 23.0mm where it is pressfit.

I will replace them for 6904 for a 20mm axel. The 6904 are 37mm O.D. and 20mm I.D. i will have to machin the extra 1mm radius in the steel of the side cover The 6904 are 9mm wide while the stock 6003 are 10mm. so i will ahve to shim with washer or oring. The black axel is the dual diameter that match with my White Brother fork

I have also painted the inside of the side cover with the black paint Krylon 1602 and baked it to 80 celsius to not affect the bearing grease.

I tought you would find interesting to know how much these components weight :wink:

Doc

 

[Samd]

It'd actually be easy enough to use dual crown forks and the standard axle, just make some clamping adapters. Drop the stanchions out, assemble the lower end then insert the whole lot up into the crowns. I think that's what Kingfish did in the past...

 

[Samd]

It'd actually be easy enough to use dual crown forks and the standard axle, just make some clamping adapters. Drop the stanchions out, assemble the lower end then insert the whole lot up into the crowns. I think that's what Kingfish did in the past...

 

[teslanv]

No Kingfish just used 9mm QR forks with a pair of custom torque arms.

I did manage to find an NOS Rockshox "Judy XL" Dual-crown fork with 9mm QR drops, though. Saving it for a high-powered 2WD build...

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I hadn't been following this thread, so just spent a good 4+ hours skipping through it trying to catch up.
It was good to learn all about the difference between motor winding/turn counts and how the myth of lower turns equaling more torque is false. That info should be put up in a separate thread for more people to find IMO.

The main reason I'm interested in the MXUS is because I stripped the axle on my HS4080, which I've recently spent many hours modifying for increased cooling. I'm sick of the ongoing issues I've (and I see others from reading this thread) had with my Crystalyte motors. This is the 4th Crystalyte (2X HS35xx and 2X HS40xx) motor I'm on now and every one of them has had axle issues mainly caused IMO from the small 1/2" axle size.
I'm going to try and get the axle repaired (reduced to 12mm) first before buying a MXUS, but if that fails (which it likely will eventually) the MXUS is the most logical choice for my Fighter.

Anyway, I have few questions I wasn't able to see the answers to...apologies if I skipped over the answers.

1) Is there a V3 of the MXUS coming (already out?)? What are the differences?

2) I plan on using it with my Mini-E (65A) on 12S (45V) LiPo in a 24" rim. From what I can tell the 3T would be best, but I don't need much top speed. Would the better copper fill of the 4T be better for overall higher efficiency given the Adaptto's ability to generate speed with OVS when (occasionally) required and the increased time spent in a higher efficiency zone when at or near 100% PWM?

3) I already have a rim + spokes from a dead HS4065 motor. I notice the diameter of the HS40 spoke flange is only 0.2mm larger than the MXUS, and the inner flange width is 0.5mm bigger on the MXUS. http://www.crystalyte.com/Dimensions_H40 Series.pdf
Does anyone think I would work for me to reuse the spokes/rim from the HS40 to lace the MXUS?
Alternatively, is the magnet size and pole count for the HS40 and MXUS the same? The dimensions are so close, it looks like I could just drop the MXUS stator into the HS40 magnet ring...or is that a bad idea?

Thanks in advance to anyone who responds.

Cheers

 

[litespeed]

I'm sure it wouldn't be a drop in solution for many reasons but mainly because the MXUS is a 45mm motor, not 40. I went to this motor since my 4065 axle gave up after little (500 miles max!) time. What a waste of money that turned out to be. I believe the 4T would be your best bet.

The myth was higher turn made more torque but they (higher turns) still have a place and work very well when used to their advantage!

Tom

 

[Rix]

I hadn't been following this thread, so just spent a good 4+ hours skipping through it trying to catch up.
It was good to learn all about the difference between motor winding/turn counts and how the myth of lower turns equaling more torque is false. That info should be put up in a separate thread for more people to find IMO.

The main reason I'm interested in the MXUS is because I stripped the axle on my HS4080, which I've recently spent many hours modifying for increased cooling. I'm sick of the ongoing issues I've (and I see others from reading this thread) had with my Crystalyte motors. This is the 4th Crystalyte (2X HS35xx and 2X HS40xx) motor I'm on now and every one of them has had axle issues mainly caused IMO from the small 1/2" axle size.
I'm going to try and get the axle repaired (reduced to 12mm) first before buying a MXUS, but if that fails (which it likely will eventually) the MXUS is the most logical choice for my Fighter.

Anyway, I have few questions I wasn't able to see the answers to...apologies if I skipped over the answers.

1) Is there a V3 of the MXUS coming (already out?)? What are the differences?

2) I plan on using it with my Mini-E (65A) on 12S (45V) LiPo in a 24" rim. From what I can tell the 3T would be best, but I don't need much top speed. Would the better copper fill of the 4T be better for overall higher efficiency given the Adaptto's ability to generate speed with OVS when (occasionally) required and the increased time spent in a higher efficiency zone when at or near 100% PWM?

3) I already have a rim + spokes from a dead HS4065 motor. I notice the diameter of the HS40 spoke flange is only 0.2mm larger than the MXUS, and the inner flange width is 0.5mm bigger on the MXUS. http://www.crystalyte.com/Dimensions_H40 Series.pdf
Does anyone think I would work for me to reuse the spokes/rim from the HS40 to lace the MXUS?
Alternatively, is the magnet size and pole count for the HS40 and MXUS the same? The dimensions are so close, it looks like I could just drop the MXUS stator into the HS40 magnet ring...or is that a bad idea?

Thanks in advance to anyone who responds.

Cheers

Dang CD, you have more problems with those axles. I know you put a lot of work into your force fan venting motors, why don't you get a custom built axle for it like Hyena had made? 16x10 axle is probably going to be a better option. If you do, you will need to get some different axle torque blocks for your Fighter's swingarm. If you go with the MXUS, you will need to mod your torque blocks to 14mm as well, or see if Stealth will sell you the Bombers torque axle blocks.

 

[teslanv]

There is myth and then there is reality.

Truth: All Windings of a common motor design are able to produce the same amount of torque, if the phase current is increased for lower Kv motors proportional to the difference in Kv between windings. More copper fill will always be more efficient, and handle more power.

Reality: A High Kv (Faster) Motor will overheat quicker in a large diameter tire than will a Low Kv (High Kt) motor.
Reality: You can run a Low Kv (High Kt) motor with a smaller, more modest controller, as compared to a High Kv (Faster) winding.

Example: MXUS 3000W 3T and 4T windings benefit from an 18FET Controller to produce high torque, whereas the 5T and 6T windings of the same motor can generally get by with a 12FET controller.

The bottom line is that it all comes down to what size tire you want to run. If you want the fastest speed, get a samall diameter tire (Less than 26" O.D.) and use a 3T or 4T winding. If you want to run a fat tire bike (~28"+ O.D. tire) you are going to need a 5T or 6T winding.

 

[cwah]

Hello,

I'm in hell, I have this mxus controller:
kt36-60svpld-xfc08d4
Rated 36-60V with peak current at 60A

The total number of wires are these:

I'm in confusion and I'm wondering which one of these 5 wires are the hall sensors????

Thank you

 

[teslanv]

Hello,

I'm in hell, I have this mxus controller:
kt36-60svpld-xfc08d4
Rated 36-60V with peak current at 60A

The total number of wires are these:

I'm in confusion and I'm wondering which one of these 5 wires are the hall sensors????

Thank you

Did it come with throttle, ebrakes, PAS and LCD display? - They should be plug & PLay. Connectors only fit one way.
If no controls were included you are in a world of hurt.

 

[cwah]

I bought it with just the controller. Seller didn't give me a wiring diagram and i'm ok to do some soldering.

But nothing at all and it's really challenging

Can you help? Thank you

 

[teslanv]

I bought it with just the controller. Seller didn't give me a wiring diagram and i'm ok to do some soldering.

But nothing at all and it's really challenging

Can you help? Thank you

I'll tell you what I know...

Here is the controller Model. This version is the 40V-75V option. The following wiring connections will also work with the 56V-90V version of the same controller.


The Battery and Phase wires should be obvious.


The White JST-SM connector is for the LCD3 Display.



3-pin JST-SM connector from the controller is for the PAS sensor.



The Throttle has a power on/off button as well as a 3-speed switch integrated so the wiring is a bit complicated, and honestly I have not split out each wire color. The 3-pin JST-SM connector is most likely the throttle signal.



The 6-pin molex connector also connects to the throttle. I suspect this is your power on and 3-speed switch wires.



Ebrake Connectors:


Hall Sensor wires. Note on the second photo, the white wire in the middle. That's the temp sensor from the motor. The controller doesn't actually do anything with the temp sensor. I guess they just didn't want the bare white wire sticking out looking ghetto.



And it probably also has a CA connector. Mine do.


That's all I know, bro.