There is no such thing as a high torque or low torque winding of the same motor. Anyone who says different need to look again at the 2nd chart I posted from Astro and keep doing so until this point is hammered home.
It is such a widespread myth that even many so called manufacturers as well as actual manufacturers and almost all retailers propagate the myth. Yes they have different torque for the same current, but more current is easy to come by with today's controllers, but the so called low torque speed winds have proportionately thicker shorter lengths of copper wrapped around their teeth, so they can handle the higher current for exactly the same heat loss to deliver the same torque. For
exactly the same performance the speed wind motor needs only the proportionately higher current and proportionately lower voltage. That means exactly the same performance on hills, speed, acceleration, efficiency...everything.
If you compare 2 different winds using the same battery pack and controller settings, then you're doing an apples and oranges comparison, and this is where the myth originated and why some very experienced posters continue to propagate the myth based not on an intent to deceive, but based on anecdotal evidence that leads them to incorrect conclusions.
The better motor, given otherwise identical motors with different winds, is the one that fits more copper on the teeth, because it will have better efficiency. For this MXUS 3000 the 2 known windings have the same copper (turns X strands), so they are identical motors in all respects if you consider voltage and current to be variable. Another known motor regarding turns and strand counts for different winds is the 9C, and the 8x8 is the best with 64 strands on each, and the 9x7 and 7x9 a close second with 63. The highly touted as a high torque motor 10 turns with 6 strands on each turn is the worst of the bunch with 6% less copper on each tooth than the 8x8. MAC offers different turn counts on their geared hubbies that people talk about a lot, and I'm fairly certain the gear ratio on the planetary reductions are the same making them identical motors other than the copper, so it would be interesting to know the strand counts too (anyone asking them should verify that the copper uses is the same gauge for accurate comparisons), and we can bust their participation in the myth out of the water too.
If you want more torque then reduce the gearing with a smaller wheel size. Guys can hardly complain about going from a 26" to a 24", and for an average guy and his ebike, that's the same as cutting 20lbs off of the bike.
If you increase voltage in the same proportion you get almost 8% more power with the same top speed, and less heat due to the less stressful load, better cooling due to the higher rpm, and more acceleration. Going down to a 20" wheel instead of a 26" is where it really gets impressive, because it's like cutting 55-60lbs off of the average bike, and on mine it's like a 90lb lighter load, actually over 100lbs since I run a 19.25" OD tire. These comparisons hold up as long as you aren't bumping up against the rpm limits of the motor where the iron losses start to increase more rapidly with rpm. Why do you think China isn't putting out electric motorcycles with common moto size wheels with hubmotors in them? I assure you it's not because there's no demand.
My motor has half the pole count and high quality thin stator steel laminations, so it's fine out well past 2krpm, and it's big enough to produce the torque and power, as well as modded to dissipate the heat from running high power, so that's why it's capable of over 100mph and still able to climb the steepest paved roads I can find (>20% grades) despite my big load. With the MXUS 3000 you guys are somewhat rpm limited by the stator steel and Kv, but you don't have all that much less area in the magnetic gap and the all up loads for most of you should be significantly less than my 400lbs+, so if you're not getting eye popping performance then you're just not trying hard enough...or following the wrong advice. Forget the big wheels though, because that will be your biggest mistake right out of the gate, because you'd need to DIY carbon frames and run small battery packs to make up for it. If your roads are so bad that a 20" vs a 26" really makes as difference, then move. I did almost 3 years ago, and the top criteria in house selection was that it had to have nice smooth roads in all directions. I even have a nice 5-6% uphill grade heading east, which is perfect for ebike testing...not too steep and easy to get home coasting down hill if something blows during testing. Gotta get your priorities straight if you're going to take this hobby seriously.
John
