MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

[teslanv]

.....So Lyens Infineon controllers are what square wave?

Yes, Lyen/Infineon/Xie Chang are Square wave controllers.

 

[teslanv]

I got my second taste of this motor with a sine wave control a week ago on a neighbors bike.........IT IS LIKE RIDING ON A MAGIC CARPET. There is almost no cogging with the sine wave controller, I was speechless how smooth it was.

Adaptto?

 

[wesnewell]

I use these on the inside of the dropouts.
http://monsterfastener.com/item/jns-195

As a spacer?

That, but more as something to provide a solid backing for the dropouts at 170mm on the fat tire bike so i can get the axle nuts tight. And like this in regular dropouts.

 

[johnrobholmes]

I just picked up the Holmes MMP rim I ordered on the 12th. It arrived a couple days ago but I was out of town. I got the Red option rim to save $$ and I had assumed from the post he gave about them that they were new rims, but he wanted to get rid of them as red "got a lot of votes but not a lot of buys" or something similar.

My "new" rim apparently is used.
It has a small dent in one side which didn't seem to happen during shipping as the box was intact and the inside of the rim has baked-in debris that looks like rubber/dirt as if it had been mounted and used for some time.

I'm thankful for the price of the rim anyhow, but wanted to share my experience.

Definitely should have been a brand new rim, we don't have any used ones nor have we had returned rims that could have gotten mixed up with the new ones. Do you still have it uninstalled? Could you take a pic and email it to warranty@ my company name? My apologies on this, I'm quite curious as to how it happened.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

I use these on the inside of the dropouts.
http://monsterfastener.com/item/jns-195

Thank you! 8)

 

[markz]

I use these on the inside of the dropouts.
http://monsterfastener.com/item/jns-195

As a spacer?

That, but more as something to provide a solid backing for the dropouts at 170mm on the fat tire bike so i can get the axle nuts tight. And like this in regular dropouts.

Ya my frame is the same way. I see my dropouts bending inward, so I like the nut idea for sure.

 

[Rix]

I use these on the inside of the dropouts.
http://monsterfastener.com/item/jns-195

As a spacer?

That, but more as something to provide a solid backing for the dropouts at 170mm on the fat tire bike so i can get the axle nuts tight. And like this in regular dropouts.

That will work for sure. I use washers cut with a 10mmx14mm hole in the center.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

I am able to install this nice motor 4T V2 into Giant DH with Kiwi dropouts without any cutting on axle.
Waauww I am impressed: very easy to dishing the rim and max. speed freewheel is 5S

So I can throw my HS3540 and HT3525 into the garbage corner..... 8) 8) 8)

 

[Rix]

Here is a comparison between the TC4080 and MXUS. As can be seen, both motors are similar over all. Even Justin's Ebike Simulator shows close performance between these two with same volts/amps input. Couple of differences I noted. The TC4080 axle on the brake side is 27mm, the MXUS is 17mm, both axles use a 10x14 dimension with 1.5 thread pitch. On my scale, the TC4080 is 19.6 # and the MXUS is 20.2 #. The axles on the freewheel side for the MXUS is 17mm and the TC4080 is 16mm. Overall width of the stator covers are 67mm for the TC4080 and 72mm for the MXUS. The only advantage I see with the TC4080 over the MXUS is the large axle allows for more room for phase wires and sensor wire. If MXUS was to make there axles 150mm and say 20mm on the brake side, they would solve the wire clearance problem I am seeing. The TC 4080 2x as much as the MXUS. There is no way the TC4080 is twice as good. Later this summer, I should have them both laced up and running, the TC on my Fighter, the MXUS on my Flux, should be a neat comparison.

 

[Samd]

Thanks rix. Good data. I generally just add a cable tie behind the axle exit to stop the chance of rub.

Another significant point for me is the Mxus' axle material. Much better than the clyte material someone once referred to as 'cheese'.

I've got an older crown in the shed, I think its nearly 3lbs more. Must check. The large radius is a bit of a cop-magnet (no insult intended!)

Anyone else noticed a big drop in clyte prices lately?

 

[Rix]

Thanks rix. Good data. I generally just add a cable tie behind the axle exit to stop the chance of rub.

Another significant point for me is the Mxus' axle material. Much better than the clyte material someone once referred to as 'cheese'.

I've got an older crown in the shed, I think its nearly 3lbs more. Must check. The large radius is a bit of a cop-magnet (no insult intended!)

Anyone else noticed a big drop in clyte prices lately?

Yah, the TC80 is quite a bit heavier than the TC4080. Physically looking at those two side by side, the TC series looks almost as big as the 54xx. Good to know about the axle material, I got a bunch of 10x14 washers for mounting the MXUS onto the Flux, I will grind the edge down, and bevel it so the wires aren't pinched. Will make it work.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

I don't see any prices are dropped for Crystalyte motors?
Any link(s)???

Thanks.

 

[Rix]

I don't see any prices are dropped for Crystalyte motors?
Any link(s)???

Thanks.

Haven't seen that from the retailers here locally.... yet, but there is a price drop on these motors for bulk from Crystalyte. I figured it was because of the Chinese Yaun to USD were changing, it never occurred to me that it could be competition related to the MXUS. Hey SAM D, whats up?

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Thanks 8)

Yeah I was just curious, no more Crystalyte for me!
I have many Crystalyte motors, none of them last long.
Even with mods

 

[rhinejuice]

Keen to see you experience Rix! But hoping the mxus wins out!

 

[Doctorbass]

Thanks 8)

Yeah I was just curious, no more Crystalyte for me!
I have many Crystalyte motors, none of them last long.
Even with mods

Depend on how you use them. From my 8 years experience on E-S i can say that the Crystalyte are built really strong. I opened 3 MXUSdifferent motors and none of them have a built quality that is better than the Crystalyte. I used over 10kW in each of my 5300 and 5400 serie motor and none of them burnes or damaged.. one even have shown a stator temp of 260 Celsius after one of my friend cameback from a ride.. the motor was smoking!.. but i acheived a 113kmh with the same motor 1 year later...

The most evident difference is the winding quality. The Crystalyte motor are far better than the MXUS 3000. The MXUS 3000 have alot of loose wires strands, even some of the parallel run are broken sometime... also the protection layers between the stator metal lamination and winding are absent on some tooth... Just open your MXUS you will see what i mean! I have contacted Barent to suggest him to discuss with MXUS about these problems so he can get better QC on the next order.

All 5300 serie motor used 12 gauge wires while the MXUS 3000 use 14gauge... Also the axel of the crystalyte is stronger.

But as well the MXUS are far Superior efficiency many Crystalyte... and weight less.... but i will have to rebuilt all my MXUS to make sure they last long... this include varnish emal on all stator parts, add epoxy on all magnets, insyall 10 gauge phase wires etc.

Doc

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Yup I agree with you.
I think I have to be more specific, I am talking about Crystalyte HT and HS series.
I have modded these motor before using them, even than they don't last long.
E.g. axles are now worn out, nuts are broken etc...

Yup I have opened MXus 3000 V2 before using it.
I have done some mods first before.....playing with WOT

I hope this motor last longer, looking at it I have faith in it 8)

 

[markz]

Has anyone pushed the limits of this motor?
If its a nominal 3000w, and max is 6000w. Then at what point does this motor get hot.

Just wondering when I go to 72V battery and beef up the traces on my 18fet Low RDS Overclocker Ready 72V 65A, which would hopefully do 80-90A then Im at 6100-6500w. Has anyone rocked out in that range? I do plan on going with a smaller diameter moto wheel.

 

[Allex]

Well the motor will overheat even at 3000W depending on the use.

 

[markz]

I've seen several videos on youtube, and no one seems to get it screaming hot.
The controller gets hot before the motor.

 

[zener]

It also depends on Ambient temp.

 

[Doctorbass]

The controller gets hot before the motor.

It depend on the motor winding...

Low turn count.. ex 3T and 4T will make the controller hot while the motor will stay warm
High turn count..ex 5T or 6T will make the controller warm while the motor will become hot.

a simple thumb rule by experience :wink:

Doc

 

[Samd]

I'm getting requests to unecessarily upgrade things because of your comments above Doc. Everyone is entitled to their view.
But a lot of noobs don't realise what you are suggesting I think. The extra ! marks also get them twitchy.
Can I temper it with the fact that you're running ten kilowatts?

I actually think these motors are fine out of the box for 90 percent of people and I think people would be surprised at what the stock phase wires and bearings can do.

I also feel confident that the axles are holding up better than the infamous cheese ones from clyte and needs to also temper the view of modifying a Mxus.

Sam

 

[madin88]

Has anyone pushed the limits of this motor?
If its a nominal 3000w, and max is 6000w. Then at what point does this motor get hot.

Its simple: if the windings get above 100°C than i would call it hot.
Im no friend of talking about watts in this case. its about phase amps!! As example 1000W at low RPM can make it even hotter as 3000W at high RPM.

The really interesting thing would be to know at what torque levels the core starts to saturate. Or with other words at what point the relation between amps and torque output discontinues to be linear.
Justin did some tests with 9C motors (unfortunately i don't have the link to the thread) and after i did extrapolate it to 45mm wide mxus stator i found out this point probably is at about 120A (4T winding).
This depends on the kind of iron the core is made, so the saturation point also could be lower or better.

I'm getting requests to unecessarily upgrade things because of your comments above Doc. Everyone is entitled to their view.
But a lot of noobs don't realise what you are suggesting I think. The extra ! marks also get them twitchy.

It is not about problems that may occur when running it far beyond for what its made for. The real PROBLEM is the BUILD QUALITY!
summarized known issues:

- loose single strands / windings
- gaps between magents, broken off edges
- poor stator lamination assembly with rough and uneven surface
- hall sensors not at the right place (the one in the middle that is placed between two teeth) -> i think this will worsen performance and efficiency
- poor sealing

 

[litespeed]

My halls sensors went out on the first ride and my motor didn't get over 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Luckily I bought extra genuine halls from Digikey on my last order that I made for my capacitor dischage welder. Was simple to do but I can definitely call that pour quality or maybe just bad luck? The Doc is right about the higher turn motors (6T) getting hot and the controller only getting warm. I probably should have gone with a 5T or 4T.

Tom