It's been a blast to build and ride my "new" AmpedBikes-based E-bike. So for what it's worth I'll share some of my observations using the AmpedBikes kit...
I received and installed my AmpedBikes hubmotor kit in late September 2008. I've been pleased with the quality, performance and appearance of the setup. When I picked up the kit in person, I believe Danny at AmpedBikes indicated that the Black Rear kits were wound for a slightly higher top speed than their previous offerings and current Silver Front hubmotor kits. The rim appears true, however my only disappointment has been with the rather loose and noisy spokes. (EDIT: ...and now after just two weeks of commuting on relatively decent paved roads, one spoke broke. Danny at AmpedBikes was kind enough to mail a couple of replacement spokes, but before they arrived, two more broke on the same commute. :x Looks like I'll need to find some better quality replacements. Any suggestions?)
Present E-Bike configuration:
Univega Rover MTB/Hybrid (circa 1991, pure ChroMoly steel, baby!) sporting 26" x 1.5" street tires and using bike's original brake levers
AmpedBikes hubmotor kit (REAR, Black) with supplied 36V/48V 22A controller
36V/20AH Ping LiFePO4 battery, rear-rack mounted (maybe 48V next time, but more $$$/bulk/weight)
Bike (70 lbs) + Rider 185 lbs = 255 lbs (116 kg) approximate total weight
I've ridden the e-bike about 200 miles so far, primarily for my 20 mile round-trip commute to work, traversing elevations ranging from 700' near my home to 50' at the office. Cruising over mostly level or gentle grades, I can generally maintain 21-24 mph with light to moderate effort. The bicycle's gearing makes it difficult to pedal much faster than this and it doesn't seem to add much speed anyway. Hills closer to home present 3% to 10% grades, typically at 12-18 mph with moderate pedaling uphill and up to about 30 mph downhill. A few times I've noticed that the controller seems to cut off the hubmotor power during prolonged "high-speed" coasting descents, perhaps due to some sort of BEMF monitoring. After slowing and resuming pedaling, motor power is restored. This hasn't really been a problem in actual practice, but at first I was quite concerned and hastily stopped on a narrow shoulder expecting to find a wiring fault or possibly flames shooting out of the back!
Typical cruising power is about 140-300W (3.5 to 7.5A @ 40V), per Watt's Up meter. Under real world continuous heavy load, 700-770W (19 to 21A @ 37-38V) is typical. Observed average power consumption of 15-19 WH/mile has been typical, depending upon direction of travel, rider contribution, wind, etc. With moderate terrain and pedaling, a 40+ mile range should be attainable. However, I wouldn't want to have to pedal the beast too far without juice...
The Wattmeter records initial 810-875 W_peak readings when battery is at 46V freshly off the charger. The controller appears capped at about 21.4A maximum. AC Wattmeter indicates about 0.23 KWH is consumed for a 10-mile recharge.
My 30 mile pleasure ride on Monday included portions at 15mph @ 770W with moderate to somewhat heavy pedaling up grades, zooming past casual cyclists (OK, schoolkids on bikes) who could barely maintain balance or forward momentum due to the strongly gusting Santa Ana headwinds.
I still need to adjust my derailleurs to accommodate the new 5-speed rear hub instead of the previous 7-speed, hence I usually just stay in/near top gear and throttle+pedal away from stops. Free Advice: Unless you are seeking some fancy artistic lathe work on your shiny new black rear hubmotor, don't allow a mis-adjusted rear derailleur to make contact when downshifting!
