My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

[DaninSpain]

After nearly 4 years I'm now really starting to notice the decline of my battery and need to start looking at replacing it. I'm just waiting for a quote from Frey for a replacement, but I thought I would ask if anyone else has replaced their battery, and if so did you get a Frey replacement or a 3rd party battery. If you went 3rd party, would love to know about your experience. How do you know which size/shape battery to choose, how much was it delivered, and how does it compare to Frey's own battery.
Ta v much
Dan

 

[Hardcore]

How do you post pictures on here? I want to show everyone my AM1000 Modified Pro Edition. Any suggestions would be extremely appreciated. What is it 2006, I don't understand this? Why can't I access my photos to upload them?

Below the Save draft, Preview, Submit you have an option that says Attachment next to Options.

Cheers

 

[ProphetZarquon]

What is the frame material?

What is the frame material?

Hi grade titanium. :lol: :lol:

No.
It's Al 6061# aluminum alloy.

 

[machuni]

Hi all, anyone have an issue with the reention 6 pin battery connectors arcing and burning? I would hear a spark sometimes when I put the battery on the frame after charging and didn't really think anything of it, but it started intermittently cutting off yesterday when I would hit a bump. I looked at the connectors and some of them seem kind of burnt and I'm wondering if this is what's causing the problem. I posted earlier about the downtube being bent inward, which kept the battery from seating correctly, and I'm wondering if this is what somehow created the sparks. I was looking at just buying and replacing the connectors at greenbikekit, has anyone done this?

 

[machuni]

And follow up question---does anyone use a dielectric grease to prevent problems like this?

 

[bugnut]

I have a frey am1000. Over the past six months I’ve noticed when the battery is low maybe about 30 or 35% and using the throttle at points to assist, the battery indicates that it drops down to zero percentage and I lose all power. After stopping for a minute and turning it back on it jumps back up to the 30%. Today after having the battery charged at 100% and going on a ride when it was down at 60% I used the throttle at one point to again assist, and from 60% it dropped to zero and all the power shut off and every time I turned it back on and tried to ride it was instantly dropped to zero and shut off. Does anybody have any ideas what may be causing this. Thanks

 

[robocam]

It could mean you're out of power. The percent remaining is just a reading corresponding to the voltage of the battery, so depending on how it's calibrated, it might not accurately tell you how much power you have remaining. When you apply a load to the battery, it causes the voltage to sag. The greater the demand, the more the voltage drops. At some point, it sags low enough to activate the low-voltage cutoff, so you lose all power. When you take the load off, the voltage slowly creeps up, allowing the bike to turn back on again.

I have a frey am1000. Over the past six months I’ve noticed when the battery is low maybe about 30 or 35% and using the throttle at points to assist, the battery indicates that it drops down to zero percentage and I lose all power. After stopping for a minute and turning it back on it jumps back up to the 30%. Today after having the battery charged at 100% and going on a ride when it was down at 60% I used the throttle at one point to again assist, and from 60% it dropped to zero and all the power shut off and every time I turned it back on and tried to ride it was instantly dropped to zero and shut off. Does anybody have any ideas what may be causing this. Thanks

 

[bugnut]

Thanks, my post was actually a cut and paste of my brother in laws. So, after the ride he went home and fully charged the battery. He then powered up the bike. Before he wheeled the bike out of the garage the bike shut down. He repowered the bike and could not go 5 feet before the bike shut down again. The bike just keeps shutting down.
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

[Swannking]

It’s possible one group of cells is bad and under voltage. The BMS will shut off the entire battery.

 

[Hardcore]

When fully charged, what does your display say the voltage is? (Change from percentage to voltage via the buttons)

 

[HAVDOC]

Thanks for the reply’s. I’m the Bro-in-law with the issue. We tried my battery on his bike and it work fine, no issues. We will still try his battery on my bike, but not overly optimistic anything will change. Any other suggestions???. Thanks again.

 

[HAVDOC]

So after fooling around with it some more, it appears to be working now but I’m checking error codes. I found one, a error code 30 which is apparently a connection issue??. I tried checking connections and don’t see anything obvious.

 

[robocam]

Ok, so you've determined that the battery is fine. That's good. Have you unplugged and plugged back in all the connections you can find?

Thanks for the reply’s. I’m the Bro-in-law with the issue. We tried my battery on his bike and it work fine, no issues. We will still try his battery on my bike, but not overly optimistic anything will change. Any other suggestions???. Thanks again.

So after fooling around with it some more, it appears to be working now but I’m checking error codes. I found one, a error code 30 which is apparently a connection issue??. I tried checking connections and don’t see anything obvious.

 

[Hardcore]

There are connections inside the motor housing you should then also check. Error code 30 is indeed a "Communication Fault".

 

[HAVDOC]

I only checked the connections off the display. They all seem okay, I did not open the motor housing and not sure if that’s something I can take upon myself. I don’t know of any reputable ebike shops near me or at all for that matter.

 

[HAVDOC]

Hardcore, any other suggestions you can think of for fixing this error code??

 

[robocam]

It’s very easy. Just remove the bolts on the cover.

I only checked the connections off the display. They all seem okay, I did not open the motor housing and not sure if that’s something I can take upon myself. I don’t know of any reputable ebike shops near me or at all for that matter.

 

[HAVDOC]

Okay I will give it a try and let you know. TY.

 

[Hardcore]

Check out a youtube on how to open the motor, and then see how the cables/connections look inside. If you can swap more parts besides the battery, that could also rule out certain issues.

 

[Stanleybb50]

Anyone know where to get a new wiring harness that fits the big white connector? *This is the wire that routs to the handlebars for display, brake sensors, throttle, etc. I bought a standard Bafang that fits the BBSHD, but not this ultra. Or is there a piece to convert?

I can solder, but there's like 8? wires, they're tiny, and just don't feel like it..

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[Stanleybb50]

This is a good opportunity to maybe run a wire up the seatpost to add a small incognito battery into a seat bag as well.. So I may be soldering some xt60's/90's anyway..

 

[18650]

Btw, does anybody have a Frey AM1000 or EX (or general Bafang Ultra) circuit diagram?

 

[AtlasRearden]

I've been interested in a Frey bike for a few years now. I'm curious with the recent update to the AM1000, how would people compare the AM1000-V6 to the EX Pro? The EX Pro is only $400 more, so they are fairly comparable in price. Why would someone consider one versus the other?

I'm interested in a "do everything" sort of bike, or at least as much as possible. Something that would work well on the road when riding with my wife and carrying some gear, but then also be able to hit the trails. I like the added range of the second battery on the EX Pro, and was thinking of optioning it out with the lights, racks, fenders, etc. to make it more versatile. It's also very hilly in my area, so the high power and hill climb capabilities of the Frey bikes is attractive.

 

[18650]

Brake light issue on EX:

I have a Frey EX delivered with lights option. Unfortunately Frey didn't mount a tail light with breaking light function, just a "simple" taillight, so they connected the brake light to the "regular" (position) LED as well. This is OK when lights are OFF (only breaking lights visible) but in the dark, with lights ON, both lighting functions are superposed ==> the breaking light only shortly interrupts the already lit taillight, and then lights back ON. Thus, no real beaking light function is available in the dark.

Does anybody know how this can be changed? Can I run a third taillight wire to the back and connect another taillight with real breaking light function? (any suggestions? I couldn't find any suitable one, even though there are tons of rechargeable and acceleration sensor ones out there, but apparently but no nice wired ones) And how do I find the correct wire or pin that needs to be routed from the motor connectors to the tail?

Thanks!

 

[18650]

You can't use eggrider. I believe they are coming out with a display pretty much identical to the eggrider which you can program the controller on the fly.

The only cons are integrated lights don't work due to step down voltage issues. I replaced my rear light with a manual rechargeable light that is significantly brighter than the one that came with my Frey CC. I actually feel much safer now riding in the dark. Will do the same for the front light.

any Bafang display with original firmware will work (e.g. Bafang SW102 which is the EggRider base but of course with original firmware. I got it for 46 USD shipped).

yep, Innotrace controller has no step down converter to 6v or 12v.
but I could reactivate integrated lights or better said: I can switch on/off my lights with my Bafang display again. with activated light Innotrace controller switches light plug output to ground. so I finally made it simple with a 12v DC-DC buck converter (max 80v input) and a P-mosfet - all parts together were under 5 Euro I think. and yep, it works - brighter than before = using 12v now.
Innotrace is developping a 12v/3a converter (also external) - my Ebay 12v converter is weaker but smaller...
it looks not nice but it works and there is enough space under the Bafang motor plastic protection for it (black JST-plugs = full voltage, JWPF plug on the left side = connected with original front light plug, 2x JWPF plugs at the right side = 'new' 12v front and rear light plugs):
Lights.JPG

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Hi Barbarossa, just from the picture it isn't obious to figure out the schematics - could you please post that as well for the less experienced riders? Maybe together with the DC/DC you used? Thanks