EMF said:
Interesting thanks for the info! So if the motor is running, then does this mean the pedals are going around? Can't wait to see what you guys think and also see the range. What voltage(s) are you going to run these at?
Both kits come with a new freewheel crankset, which allows the the pedals to "coast" while the motor is running.
The 1000W motor/controller combo is spec'd at 48V, which is what I am going to try first. I have no idea about how much over this the controller can handle. I'll have to take apart the controller, take some pics, and let the likes of Rick and Richard, and maybe Bob, if he's around, to see if these might be modifiable in the same fashion as the Crystalytes. I'm hopeful, however, that with the extra torque that you get with the gearing, they may not need the"extreme" mods we do to the Clytes in order to drive an x5 to 80-100A. I'd be extremely pleased if a "stock" 48V/40A Cyclone setup comes close to the torque/acceleration I get with a modded 72V setup with a 5304. My gut tells me it should come close. I'll know soon enough as my shipment cleared Customs today, so I should see it here on Monday.
The timing is actually good because I fried the controller on my Townie this week. I had put in a controller that Bob had upped the current on to 100A+. The acceleration was pretty amazing, about like a small motorcycle, but short-lived. I now know how much current the stock motor wires
won't take.

The wires fused, and the then the controller farted.
Anyway, I'd really like to just run 48V setups, as it simplifies the wiring (I have dual main power leads and dual WattsUp meters on all the 72V setups, because they peak out at about 66V...). It also means less expensive packs.
I too love the Nexus hubs. There's a Nexus 8 on my wife's Townie. That might be overkill, though, as I think a 3-speed should be plenty. I forget his name, but there is an Aussie runnine one of these on a custom setup, with a 48V SLA configuration. I seem to remember that he said he starts out in 1st, and then shifts straight to 3rd. He uses 2nd, for when he needs extra torque for going up a hill. I also remember him reporting that he was seeing 2500W peaks, even with the SLAs. This is a big motor, and at 1000W is, in my opinion, purposely underrated. I know from my own 48V a123 setups, which hit about 2000W with a stock 40A controller, the power is "almost" enough for me, but will strain trying to get me up over some of the hills around here. With 72V and 50-60A, I can fly over anything with out slowing down. I'm guessing 2500-3000W, with the extra torque that gearing provides, will be enough to do the trick. We'll see.
If this works out, I'll probably re-do my wife's Townie, which has brake problems right now. This model came with the Nexus 8 in the back, with the integral hub brake, and another hub brake up front. There's no mounting for standard V-brakes, or for disc brakes. I ended up putting the 5304 up front, and then implemented an electric/regen-typ brake, using a bunch of wire wrapped around the downtube, but this was not without problems. First, it required that I put torque arms on both sides, in opposite directions. Even still, this causes a lot of stress on the dropouts. Next, a button wore out, so when it failed, there was no front brake at all. Luckily, this occured close to our house. Anyway, what I'm doing right now is looking for a new front steel fork that has V-brake mounts. Unfortunately, this is not so easy beacuse the Townies use a screw-type headset, that is unusually long. I'm now back to Electra factory, trying to get an existing Townie V-brake fork that will work with the super big "Fat Frank" tires. If the Cyclones work out, I'll just put the old whell/hub brake setup back on the front.
Most of the new chopper-styled beach cruisers I saw in San Diego last weekend were Phats, and almost all had Nexus 3 hubs. This sounds like a good match for a 1000W Cyclone setup.
-- Gary