dennyt
10 W
I love this bike! What an amazing first build.
The swingarm stiffness caught my eye as a potential weak spot, especially with the added weight of batteries. And not just in the vertical plane - the swingarm sees a lot of sideways torque from the tire contact patch, which is on a 13" lever arm. So it needs to be vertically and torsionally stiff. Parallel small tubes are not up to the task. A larger single tube (like your fork blades) or a rectangular tube or small tubes with triangulation would stiffen it up. One of Carroll Smith's books, Tune to Win or Engineer to Win, discusses torsional stiffness. Torsional stiffness vs. weight goes something like:
Circular Tube 100%
Rectangular Tube: ~90%
Angle, flat bar, solid sections: ~10%
Circular Tube with Slit Cut Along Length: 10% (closed sections are 10X as stiff as open sections!)
An extra size up in tubing on the shock struts would improve the margin on buckling here, too. But if it isn't broke...
Looking forward to seeing more pics as you finish it over the winter!
Riverbend Bicycles said:Everything on the rear end is 1/2 inch .049wall. I think it's fine for the suspension pushrods, but I'm wondering if 3/4 inch would be better for the rest. It seems a little flexy, but I haven't got to ride it enough to know.Malcolm said:I love the sculptural quality of your frame, especially the swingarm. What diameter and wall thickness is the tube you used for the rear suspension pushrods?
The swingarm stiffness caught my eye as a potential weak spot, especially with the added weight of batteries. And not just in the vertical plane - the swingarm sees a lot of sideways torque from the tire contact patch, which is on a 13" lever arm. So it needs to be vertically and torsionally stiff. Parallel small tubes are not up to the task. A larger single tube (like your fork blades) or a rectangular tube or small tubes with triangulation would stiffen it up. One of Carroll Smith's books, Tune to Win or Engineer to Win, discusses torsional stiffness. Torsional stiffness vs. weight goes something like:
Circular Tube 100%
Rectangular Tube: ~90%
Angle, flat bar, solid sections: ~10%
Circular Tube with Slit Cut Along Length: 10% (closed sections are 10X as stiff as open sections!)
An extra size up in tubing on the shock struts would improve the margin on buckling here, too. But if it isn't broke...
Looking forward to seeing more pics as you finish it over the winter!