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My RMARTIN bike died today.

you really should fix the rmartin so it doesn't become junk. almost everyone has to replace hall sensors at one time or another, it is not as hard as that guy implied. in fact i suspect your hall sensors are mounted on a pcb on the end of the motor, like on the cyclone motor, so it should be easy.
 
dnmun said:
you really should fix the rmartin so it doesn't become junk. almost everyone has to replace hall sensors at one time or another, it is not as hard as that guy implied. in fact i suspect your hall sensors are mounted on a pcb on the end of the motor, like on the cyclone motor, so it should be easy.

I'll probably purchase the iGO this fall or spring. It's lighter--about 17 lbs and higher torque. If I do, will test the old motor on the new bike, really curious if it is the hall sensors?? I'm still thinking it could have been a loose connection within the frame. Either way will sell off the parts but easier to sell a motor if it's still functional. I believe strongly in recycling so plan on selling the parts cheap (almost give away) and donating the frame, wheels and fenders to the local bike coop.
http://freeridemontpelier.org/

http://www.igoelectric.com/
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Brushless motor R Martin 008.JPG
 
georgefromvt said:
easier to sell a motor if it's still functional. I believe strongly in recycling
What's the brand name on the motor? One of your pics shows it on the back of the shinny case, but I can't make it out.
 
Nehmo said:
georgefromvt said:
easier to sell a motor if it's still functional. I believe strongly in recycling
What's the brand name on the motor? One of your pics shows it on the back of the shinny case, but I can't make it out.

Nehmo, I believe all the motors come from one company in China. Feel free to call Sat AM, I'll try and find the exact name or post a pic.
http://www.caticgz.com/Products/3791.html#
A company in France sells the parts separately. Rmartin and iGO bikes also sell parts, they just don't mention it on their websites.
http://www.electrics-bike.com/pieces_detachees_velo_electrique_vtt_electrique_vtc_electrique_vae.htm
Brushless motor R Martin 006.JPG
 
Nehmo
Here is a closer look of the motor/ controller. I received an interesting PM last evening; "buddies bike is an R10 not R12 but it uses the same crank assembly. He got it used and has only owned it a yr but its been good minus a couple little things like the chain popping off when changing gears which got a bit better by changing out the chain and freewheel. He also had an intermittent power loss problem which i tracked down to a wire going from the power/light switch (which i believe is the same as yours) to a plug stashed inside the frame; it took a bit to track down but got it resolved.".
As I mentioned in my earlier thread, not sure what the issue was, I already stripped down the bike so not trying to trouble shoot any issues now. I tried like heck to weave out the wires from the tube but ended up breaking some of the connectors. Finally gave up in frustration; not worth stroking out. So, not sure if it was a loose connection or hall wires.
If I do rebuild, the controller is rated at 15 amps, motor 200 watts, could it handle a 48 volt battery????
http://www.tonaro.cn/contact.html
RMartin 200W Motor 001.JPG
RMartin 200W Motor 006.JPG
 
I wonder if you could just use a sensorless controller on that motor?

Then you will not have to open the motor and change out the halls. I have a sensorless controller or two - wish we lived closer. Anyone live near george with a sensorless controller to try out?
 
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ianmcnally2 said:
I wonder if you could just use a sensorless controller on that motor?

Then you will not have to open the motor and change out the halls. I have a sensorless controller or two - wish we lived closer. Anyone live near george with a sensorless controller to try out?

Great idea but already disassembled the bike. Plan on buying a new iGO bike; lighter and stronger torque. If I did choose to repair the old bike, how do I hook up a sensorless controller and what amps/ volts? Thanks.
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Brushless motor R Martin 001.JPG
 
Well, I couldn't go without an EBIKE so broke down and purchased a new RMartin 10. I was planning on buying my next bike from iGO bikes in Quebec but the Rmartins are 200-300 dollars cheaper and offer free shipping. The bike came today. Ride is smoother thanks to the full suspension and better torque thanks to a 250 watt motor. Unfortunately I got a flat tire only a few miles from home so ride was cut short. Tomorrow I'll pick up another tube. Tonight I switched the handle bars with longer-swept back style. I prefer to sit up right rather than hunched forward.
R10 Sept 2011 008.JPG
R10 Sept 2011 013.JPG
R10 Sept 2011 026.JPG
http://www.electricbikedistributor.com/R10_electric_bicycle.html
 
georgefromvt said:
Unfortunately I got a flat tire only a few miles from home so ride was cut short. Tomorrow I'll pick up another tube.

Equipment and effort involved in fixing a flat tire is minimal; hopefully this episode becomes your prompt for preparing for future flats, such that they don't have to end your ride.

Tonight I switched the handle bars with longer-swept back style. I prefer to sit up right rather than hunched forward.

The upright sack-o'-potatoes posture befits a rider who does no work with the pedals. Be advised if you do intend to augment that awesome 250W of motor power, though-- a more committed riding position helps a lot to facilitate effective pedaling.

Chalo
 
georgefromvt said:
Well, I couldn't go without an EBIKE so broke down and purchased a new RMartin 10. I was planning on buying my next bike from iGO bikes in Quebec but the Rmartins are 200-300 dollars cheaper and offer free shipping. The bike came today. Ride is smoother thanks to the full suspension and better torque thanks to a 250 watt motor. Unfortunately I got a flat tire only a few miles from home so ride was cut short.

I actually purchased the same bike from iGo two months ago or so and had the same thing occur. After taking the tire and tube out the problem became pretty evident. The manufacturer of the rims did not make clean holes for the spokes/nipples, there are some pretty sharp metal edges/points. I suspect that both of us hit a bump or something hard enough that caused the tube to catch slightly on the sharp metal and create a small hole.

I temporarily put duct tape over the holes to solve the problem as I am in the process of replacing the wheels. I would suggest you do something similar or it will probably reoccur. I've also replaced the brakes with hydraulic ones. The difference was quite astounding.
 
Joshnet, I should have taken your advice, I fixed the flat this morning but had a second flat within a few miles. I actually thought it was my weight--200 lbs and over inflating the tire that caused the flat. I'll probably take the tire to the local bike shop for relacing and repairing the flat. My last bike broke spokes till the tire was relaced. It was worth every cent.
Is your iGO bike 250 watts? Mine is listed as 250 watts but the motor can is silver??? On the Tonao website, the 250 watt can motors are black not silver. My bike's motor shows 250 watts but it doesn't make sense why all the Ebike sites show the 250 watt motors black not silver?
My first impression of the bike: Ride is much smoother thanks to the full suspenion. Torque slightly better but not much. I'm tempted to purchase a Ping 48 Volt 10 amp battery this spring, yeah may shorten the life of the motor but not a big issue for me. Does any know if this motor with a 36 volt 15 amph controller can handle a 48 volt battery??
MOTEUR-A-SM.jpg
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R10 Sept 2011 001.JPG



http://www.tonaro.cn/products.html
 
Is the can silver or black? Mine is silver but stamped 250 watts. Do you think it was tolerate a 48 volt battery???
BIGHIT.jpg
 
R10 Sept 2011 001.JPG
dnmun said:
use rim tape. you should replace the hall sensors in the first bike's motor and use it too.
Yes, will probably repair my old bike this winter, always good to have a working spare. Do you think the bikes can handle a 48 volt battery?? Thanks.
R Martin Bike July 26 2010 010.JPG
 
48V is most probly ok, if you can open the controller and look on the input to see what size, voltage that is, of caps on the input and maybe might have to add a resistor to the input to get the voltage to the regulator down, but it should go faster that the 36V. show us a picture of the inside of the controller and we can look at it too.
 
I hate Rmartin. About a year and a half ago, I purchased the R-10 from them. The freewheel on the crank assembly froze three times, the rear shock broke twice and this was on 2 of their R-10s. They had to send me a replacement and it had the same issues. All I was using it for was my commute to work and simple errands. Eventually I settled on the LX1 as a replacement for the R10 and the frame broke on the LX1. Now I'm stuck with the LX1 broken frame and spare parts. The hub motor they use on the LX1 is too wide to fit on any other bike frame. Oh and did I mention that they lied to me about the max rider weight. The only reason I purchased their bike is because they assured me that my size wouldn't be an issue.
 
lbz5mc12 said:
I hate Rmartin. About a year and a half ago, I purchased the R-10 from them. The freewheel on the crank assembly froze three times, the rear shock broke twice and this was on 2 of their R-10s. They had to send me a replacement and it had the same issues. All I was using it for was my commute to work and simple errands. Eventually I settled on the LX1 as a replacement for the R10 and the frame broke on the LX1. Now I'm stuck with the LX1 broken frame and spare parts. The hub motor they use on the LX1 is too wide to fit on any other bike frame. Oh and did I mention that they lied to me about the max rider weight. The only reason I purchased their bike is because they assured me that my size wouldn't be an issue.

I've had pretty good luck with RMartin. My first bike (12A) went 1200 miles before it had issues. My second bike (10) had two flat tires the first 2 days but other than that, performance and quality seems OK. I took the wheel to Onion River my local bike shop; wheel was missing "rim tape". For 15 bucks, they inspected the wheel, applied rim tape and changed the flat--all in about 20 minutes. Tonight I went on a 2 hour bike ride and no flats!!!!!! The 10 is slightly peppier and much smoother thanks to the full suspension. If the bike lasts 1200 miles without any major issues, I'll be satisfied. I'll probably switch to a 48 volt battery next spring. Yeah, might shorten it's life but I'm dying too see how it handles the extra voltage.
http://www.onionriver.com/
R Martin Bike July 26 2010 005.JPG
 

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One word of advice. If you change the battery voltage, you might want to change your gear ratio. You'll probably need a smaller set of gears on the back wheel so you can use the pedal assist effectively. I'm not sure if the crank driven motors increase in speed when you up the voltage or if you'll just get higher torque. I went from a 36v to a 39v battery and my 800 watt hub motor went about 5 to 7mph faster.
 
Those bikes are usually speed limited ( under power) to 32kmh/20 mph.
You can over ride this by removing the magnet, usually on rear wheel. However I'm not sure how the motor gearing will handle the faster speed.
 
lesspedal said:
Those bikes are usually speed limited ( under power) to 32kmh/20 mph.
You can over ride this by removing the magnet, usually on rear wheel. However I'm not sure how the motor gearing will handle the faster speed.

Thanks for the advice. I'm not looking for higher speeds just more torque. I live in Northern Vermont; climbing hills is an everyday reality. The bike does come with a speed limit cable but not necessary thanks to my 210 lb body and the bikes 37-volt battery. I have never hit more than 18 MPH without peddling. As I said, I am not looking for more speed just torque. 20 mph is plenty fast for me. The controller is rated at 37 volts 15 amps; will it handle a 48-volt battery?
Speed cable.JPG
R10 Sept 2011 021.JPG
R10 Sept 2011 003.JPG
 
Have a friend who has a Gette, same bike, same motor and controller as r10.
He also needs more torque for hill climbing, the answer is to increase the amps somehow,( I don't know how to do this) . Not increase the voltage.
The controller on these bikes is rated at 7 amps, 15amps max.
 
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