Nano-tech LiPo demonstration :) Engine cranking

Ohh, and my flashlight has a 1.2W blue laser on it. :) I'm putting a 1.2W blue laser on my cell phone as well, along with a dean's mini-connector to the battery so I can have 6min charge times (my cell phone has a nano-tech cell in it). :)
 
This video shows it cranking after not being run since last xmass (over 8 months) Hence the noisy lifters at the start. Then in the end it slowed cranking because the wires got hot not because the battery was done all these starts and run time were off one charge and man with a fully charged battery at 16.8v this thing has never cranked over so fast!!!!!

[youtube]5N_GWgJ6yUI[/youtube]
 
Nice, I still love the Nano-techs. I wish I had find a solution for charging and starting with the pack.
14v of the altenator is 4,6v per cell( way too much) when I use a 3s, and 3.5v ( almost empty ) when I use a 4s nano.

A 4s A123 should be better, with 14v at 4s = 3.5v per A123 cell. which is almost full right ?
 
The Mighty Volt said:
How does the LiPo respond to current returning to it via the alternator??
This is a 16.8v fully charged battery so the battery was under constant discharge because the alternator is set for 13.5v.
 
Bazaki said:
Nice, I still love the Nano-techs. I wish I had find a solution for charging and starting with the pack.
14v of the altenator is 4,6v per cell( way too much) when I use a 3s, and 3.5v ( almost empty ) when I use a 4s nano.

A 4s A123 should be better, with 14v at 4s = 3.5v per A123 cell. which is almost full right ?
Im just going to change the regulator in my alternator to make it chager to a higher voltage. Im more worried about figuring out the bms!
 
A123 are the best to match PERFECTLY the lead acid battery voltage

4s = 13.2V nominal and 14.4V full charge ( 3.6V per cell)

My integra 1.8L run on 4s4p A123 with a little stand alone Blinky 6s balancer permanently connected to it.

Work like a charm since more than one year now.. and it worked really fine during the last winter ( as low as -30 celsius too!)


4s A123 cells for 12V system = PERFECT match for me!

no risk of fire, give monstruous current, many cycles!!.. low temp endurance... what can i say.... :wink:

Doc
 
Arlo1 said:
Bazaki said:
Nice, I still love the Nano-techs. I wish I had find a solution for charging and starting with the pack.
14v of the altenator is 4,6v per cell( way too much) when I use a 3s, and 3.5v ( almost empty ) when I use a 4s nano.

A 4s A123 should be better, with 14v at 4s = 3.5v per A123 cell. which is almost full right ?
Im just going to change the regulator in my alternator to make it chager to a higher voltage. Im more worried about figuring out the bms!

Maybe.. but pay attention to the overvolt of every light bulb in the car.. that will decrease alot the lifetime of them.. and will stress all other motors like fan, blower, etc...

or maybe not.. but i hear alot of bad experience about overvolting the entire 12V system on a car...

Doc
 
At Hobbyking they only cell the small A123 cells, I like the fact that the nano-tech can deliver 200c x 5ah = 1000 A at 12v.

Doc. I really like your A123 pack also but how much AH is at and how much max. amp can you burst, I would love to make a pocket jump start that can stay connected to the car but it also must be able to start ANY car :twisted:
 
Doctorbass said:
Arlo1 said:
Bazaki said:
Nice, I still love the Nano-techs. I wish I had find a solution for charging and starting with the pack.
14v of the altenator is 4,6v per cell( way too much) when I use a 3s, and 3.5v ( almost empty ) when I use a 4s nano.

A 4s A123 should be better, with 14v at 4s = 3.5v per A123 cell. which is almost full right ?
Im just going to change the regulator in my alternator to make it chager to a higher voltage. Im more worried about figuring out the bms!

Maybe.. but pay attention to the overvolt of every light bulb in the car.. that will decrease alot the lifetime of them.. and will stress all other motors like fan, blower, etc...

or maybe not.. but i hear alot of bad experience about overvolting the entire 12V system on a car...

Doc
This car is 100% custom and more voltage is better for all my needs!
 
The Mighty Volt said:
Arlo1 said:
The Mighty Volt said:
How does the LiPo respond to current returning to it via the alternator??
This is a 16.8v fully charged battery so the battery was under constant discharge because the alternator is set for 13.5v.

Ah Ok. Just a test for discharge capability as opposed to an outright replacement?
Its going to be a replacement in the future!
 
Hi Dr Bass your 4 series 4 parallel car battery does it have any Low voltage cutout ? What will happen if you forget your headlights on one day ?

Are you using one of these for balanving ?
http://www.astroflight.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20


and only wiring 4 cells to it ? and the rest in parallel ?
 
Today I did need the Turnigy 3s 5ah 90C lipo pack for my car. Empty battery.

With an almost empty 12v car battery 1 nano lipo is fine but I want my pack to jump start my car also when a car battery is 100% dead.

So I removed the original cables from the car battery and hooked them with my nano, well I was hoping this 90c Nano could do it, but no way, with 2 parallel so 10ah 90c 3s lipo the job was done easily but the voltage drop went from 4,16v till 3,45v per cell and the motor was warm.

It is a heavy engine to crank BMW 535d MY 07 but I was a bit disappointing in the nano, I think that when they were new they performed better.

Also the alternator is really powerful, right after the engine is on, the voltage went to 4,45 per cell so I removed it immediately

Next time I will monitor my amp clamp and see how much starting amp the car is taking.
 
When you connected that pack to a dead car battery, you effectively shorted that pack, and attempted to flash charge that lead acid at some acid boiling current while its hammering your poor nanotech.
 
I didn't connect the nano to a dead battery, I connected it straight to the + and - wires of the car without any 12v car battery, to simulate a situation for when a car battery is totally dead.
Other fuel cars I can start with 1 nano at 50% SOC. So I guess this BMW 535d diesel is really taking a whole load of cranking amps 8)
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBfor363znQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

3s 10ah nanotech at 3.88v per cell the car won't start, at 4,12v per cell it can start with 2 parallel, just 1 x5 ah is not able to do the job. Lipo had a temperature of about 7 degrees celcius, maybe that is the problem.

Only 380a cranking, with a cold engine. So that is only 38c discharge. I was suprised that a bit reving results at 130a charging :!:
 
24C discharge on a 5AH 20C standard Turnigy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ag-dL4r69M

I should be able to easily hook this up to my car and see how it cranks sometime later.
 
The same battery cranking my car over...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsGo-MZ1HU0

No problem. :)
 
Typical 4 cyclinder cars are no problem indeed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8H_Syf_LWFY&feature=plcp&context=C381385bUDOEgsToPDskIq6JglEKPXXzw11H4I5GQL

Neighboor with a Crysler Stratus 2.5l 4 cylinder didn't ride for a half year, after a few minutes of lipo cranking it finally started :D
 
A bit off topic but I jump started my roommates 2005 4cyl Ford Escape a year ago with my 14.4v ni-cd dewalt battery pack. The battery of the car was probably 10 volts or so because the car would not crank. I connected battery to postive of battery and neg to engine block. Cranked no problem. Still used the drill pack today with no issues. Now I wonder what, if any, damage was done to the pack lol
 
Just wondering why the car makers aren't using these LiPo batteries in cars. They appear to be a great idea.
The car makers try to cut weight by taking out the spare wheel. Why not also use a LiPo instead of a Lead Acid?
 
The typical lead car battery has a fair bit of capacity. People expect to be able to leave their headlights on, radio on, that type of thing. The LiPo pack would need to similar or greater capacity to meet expectations. Also, there would need to be a LVC, HVC, and some sort of active balancing. The alternator would also need to be modified. Should the battery hit LVC, it would essentially need to simply disconnect, ideally. This would mean nothing inside the car would work. Dome lights, keyless entry, etc. As we move towards vehicles becoming increasingly reliant on having power all the time, this is far from ideal. At least people are 'used' to how the car reacts when the lead battery dies.

It's just not practical. It would take a bit of work to implement safely, and would likely cost many times more than a lead battery for minimal if any real benefit. You see a 5AH LiPo crank a car and think it could simply be dropped in, when that is far from the case. That's pushing that battery to the limits and not quite ready for consumer use. Possibly in a few years it might be more practical, but it will most likely remain the more costly alternative for a long time.
 
There has been rumors for years about switching to 40-50V batteries in vehicles. Not sure if it will ever be a reality since so much car/truck stuff is 12V/24V. But maybe some day, and that day we will also walk away from lead, I think.
 
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