Nanotech LiPo booster pack for my GEM e4...

GGoodrum

1 MW
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Sep 20, 2007
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Location
South Orange County, CA
So, awhile back I bought a GEM e4. I love it, as it has just enough range that I can run errands around where we live. My typical round trips are about 12-15 miles. This GEM came with six 100Ah gel-type batteries. The model I bought used is a 2007 and the gels are supposed to last about 4 years. Sure enough, a couple months after I bought it, the gels started going south, so I replaced them. Normally, on relatively flat terrain, the range would be about 25 miles, but where I live it is pretty hilly so that range is cut down significantly, to 15-18 miles, mainly due to the gel voltage sagging quite a bit, going up the hills.

The GEM has a speed limiter that keeps the top speed at 25-26 mph, and it also has a current limiter that keeps the continuous current down to about 200A. I have seen initial peaks, starting off, of around 350A, but going up a hill, it never gets above about 190A. To do that, however, the dreaded Peukert Effect kicks in, and the voltage will sag down as low as 60V, from a normal 75-79V resting range.

The first thing I decided to do something about was getting the top speed up a bit. The easiest way was to swap out the stock motor with the 7.5hp version sold by the folks at http://www.ride-4-fun.com. They have a modified speed sensor that basically "fools" the controller into thinking it is going slower than it really is. Twice as slow, actually. :) This change alone, got the top speed up to about 33-34 mph. To get that over 40 mph, I replaced the stock 12" wheels and tires with 14" versions, also from ride-4-fun.com.

GEM e4-02.jpg
GEM e4-03.jpg

Now that I have essentially a 40mph+ golf cart, which is a kick-in-the-pants to drive, I decided I really needed to do something about its hill climbing performance. Sure, I could simply replace the six 12V gel batteries with a roughly equivalent LiPo or LiFePO4 setup, but that would be pretty expensive. Even if you assume that I'm only getting about 60Ah of useful capacity out of the gels, a 24s5p setup of PSI 12Ah cells, at roughly $25 each, would be about $3000. That's pretty steep, when you consider I wouldn't get any additional range to speak of. Going a full LiPo route would also be too costly. If I did a 20s12p of Turnigy/Zippys, for instance, the cost is still going to be well over $2000. Had I not already spent close to $1800 to replace the gels, I might have considered this route, but only if I went to a higher capacity, so that I'd get more range than I'm getting now. Again, back closer to $3k.

I then stepped back, to look at the problem from a different angle. I decided that I could simply add a Lithium-based booster pack to the gels, if I could sort out keeping the booster pack off, when it wasn't needed, and if it could be charged at the same time as the gels, using the GEM's built-in 15A DeltaQ "smart" charger. The first thing i needed to do was document how much current was being drawn, at what voltages, during discharge, and then monitor what the DeltaQ did for charging profiles. It turns out the max drain is limited to about 180-190A, going up the hills, with the voltage, even with the gels right off the charger, dipping down to about 66-67V. When the gels were about half-full, I saw it go down to about 60V. This is easy enough to take care of, just using the "standard" active cutoff circuits we've used for LVC, but just in reverse. The FETs need to stay off, until the voltage on the gels sag, and then turn on.

The charging side proved to be a bit more challenging. It turns out the DelaQ has three separate CV hold points, and then an odd equalization phase at the end. It starts out in the CC mode, with a full 15A. When the voltage gets to 82.8V, it holds there, and lets the current drop down to about 6A. It then sets the CV point up to 85.6V, and the current goes back up to about 12A. It slowly drops down to about 2A, and then the CV point is again raised, to about 88.7V, where it stays until the current drops down to about 1A. At that point, the equalization phase kicks in, where the current is kept at 2A and the voltage is allowed to rise up to 98-99V. :shock:

The first CV point, of 82.8V is perfect for a 20s LiPo pack, as the voltage per cell is 4.14V. The second CV point of 85.6V is better, for a 24s LiFePO4 setup, as it is about 3.57V per cell. In either case, what is needed is the same sort of active cutoff circuit, but for charging, where the charge current cuts off above a certain value, about 83V for LiPo and about 86V for LiFePO4.

Originally, I was thinking of using a 24s2p 77V/24Ah PSI-based booster pack, but in my experience these cells are at best 7-8C, under load, so a 2p configuration just wouldn't cut it. There would still be significant voltage sag, which defeats the purpose. I then settled in on using the new Turnigy 25-50C 10s1p "Nanotech" packs. With four of these, I end up with a 20s2p 76V/10Ah booster pack, about the size of a loaf of bread. My only real question was whether or not 10Ah would be enough to last the duration of the 100Ah gels, only kicking in when needed. As it turns out, it is just fine. When the gels are done, the booster pack is down about 80%. Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself. :)

Getting back to the special BMS control circuit I needed, I finally ended up using 12 IRFB4110 FETs, in a 2x6, back-to-back configuration, six for discharge and six for charging. Since the charger only puts out 15A max, six for charging may seem like way too many, but in this configuration, the charge side FETs are used in the "perfect diode" mode, when discharging. Richard helped me figure out how to do the control portion, which turns the discharge FETs on, when the gel voltage dips under 70V, or so, and then keeps them on for about 14 seconds. The reason for this is that once the booster pack kicks in, the gel voltage is going to get pulled up, so it would turn the FETs off again. I "fine-tuned" the delay for cutting the FETs off again so that I could make sure I could get up the longest hill.

For charging, a similar circuit is used, but without the delay. It is set to keep the FETs on, as long as the charge voltage is under 83.2V. Once the charge goes to the second CV point, the charge-side FETs are cutoff. Both of these controls are implemented using a pair of the same TC54 chips we use in the cell circuits, with the voltages set via a three-resistor divider. Here's the schematic:

LiPo-LiFePO4 Booster Pack BMS-v4.3.5c.gif

As can be seen, I also added a standard LVC/HVC opto input, to connect to the standard v4.4-type BMS cell circuits. For packaging, I decided to do the boards in a stacked fashion, that can mount on the front of the four Nanotech packs. Here's what the boards ended up looking like:

View attachment 5

There are two identical 10-channel cell circuit boards, which are basically the same as the v4.4 BMS cell circuits, but without the LEDs, and related logic. These boards can also serve as parallel adapters for the balancer plugs on the Nanotech packs. The control board has the 12 FETs, plus the rest of the control logic. It also has pads at the bottom and top for connections to the main pack connections, one for each 2p "side" of the pack. Finally, there are holes/pads for two 1/4-20 stainless steel bolts, which serve as the main booster pack connection points. The 4th board is a sort of "cover" plate, on which I added two 18-pin VAL-U-LOK connectors. These I use for plugging in a test box I made up that has three 8-channel CellLog units. This is handy to do a quick health check on the individual cell groups.

GEM Booster-01.jpg

The best part about this setup is that the only connections that need to be made to install this in the GEM are two big battery cables that connect to the main gel + and - connections. Operation of the various modes is completely automatic. It kicks in during discharge, when it needs to, charges using the same built-in charger until the Nanaotech cells get to 4.14V, and then shuts down while the charger finishes charging the gels. :)

For the installation, the GEM battery compartment has plenty of room for this "loaf of bread" add-on. There is a steel bar that runs over the top of four of the gels, to hold them in place. I simply added a 3" aluminum plate to the top of this bar, using some U-bolts. The booster pack simply sits on top of this plate, held there with heavy-duty Velcro strips and some Velcro straps. Here's a couple shots of the installation:

GEM Booster Pack-04.jpg
GEM Booster Pack-06.jpg
GEM Booster Pack-03.jpg
GEM Booster Pack-05.jpg

I've been using the CellLogs to record data, during discharging and during the charge process. Quite handy, for testing. Initially, I've also been using the CellLogs programmable LVC and HVC set points, to help figure out the optimum set points. In fact, the pack setup in the pics above, does not have the cell circuits. I didn't want to have to keep changing resistor values, for 20 channels. :) For my testing process, I've just used external balancers, to get the cells back in balance, when needed, which really was only the first few cycles. They are staying much more closely balanced now, but I haven't discharged the whole pack down below about halfway for the last few cycles. That will change, however, because my next series of tests will be to drain both the gels and the booster pack to empty, to verify that 10Ah is truly enough. It has been my experience that even healthy cells will start to get unbalanced, once you get down to where there's less than about 20% left in the "tank". :) Anyway, this weekend, I'm going to take the shrink wrap off, and add the two cell circuit balance boards, with properly tweaked LVC and HVC set points. After that, I'm going to take off the CellLog box, and seal up the enclosure. Actually, that just involves putting the back seat back in. :)

I'll try and post some discharge/charge graphs later, and maybe a video. I'm quite pleased with the results. I no longer get the huge sag, and subsequent slowing down, going up a hill. It just blasts over the top now. :) I'm also seeing quite a big jump in range. I haven't quantified it yet, but the added benefit of not having the voltage sag, going up hills, means the gels are not being worked as hard, so I get more capacity out of them. Definitely a win-win. :wink: :)

-- Gary
 
Hi Gary,

Excellent!
 
Awesome. Each chem does what it needs to. The lipo does high C, and lead does the not killing your wallet. Got any later on pics of the boards??
 
vanilla ice said:
Awesome. Each chem does what it needs to. The lipo does high C, and lead does the not killing your wallet. Got any later on pics of the boards??

Yes, it actually works quite well this way. :) Gong 40 mph, up hill, on an overgrown golf cart is pretty exhilarating, to say the least. My EV grin is quite big. :mrgreen:

I forgot to take pics of the built-up boards, but I will this weekend, when I take it apart to add the balancer boards.

-- Gary
 
Tisk-tisk Gary, cheaping out on the Nano-tech's with the 25-50C packs rather than the 45-90C packs... Just teasin you bro :) :mrgreen: :p
 
liveforphysics said:
Tisk-tisk Gary, cheaping out on the Nano-tech's with the 25-50C packs rather than the 45-90C packs... Just teasin you bro :) :mrgreen: :p

Ha! :D Yes, I looked for higher rated versions, but these were the only ones the had in a 10s1p long pack configuration. Actually, once I received them I discovered that they are really just two 5s-5000 packs with all the leads brought to the front, you can connect them in series easy enough, plugging the plus line of one, into the negative side of the other one, but it was actually more convenient for my setup to use them in a 5s2p configuration.

-- Gary
 
Hi,

vanilla ice said:
Awesome. Each chem does what it needs to. The lipo does high C, and lead does the not killing your wallet.
The Nano's are a very clever solution if you already spent $1,800 on SLA. But starting from scratch the Lipo isn't that much more expensive than SLA and its probably cheaper (more cycles) in the long run.


GGoodrum said:
This GEM came with six 100Ah gel-type batteries...

Even if you assume that I'm only getting about 60Ah of useful capacity out of the gels...

Going a full LiPo route would also be too costly. If I did a 20s12p of Turnigy/Zippys, for instance, the cost is still going to be well over $2000. Had I not already spent close to $1800 to replace the gels, I might have considered this route, but only if I went to a higher capacity, so that I'd get more range than I'm getting now. Again, back closer to $3k....
$1,800 for the gels + ~$460 for the Nano's, close to $2,300

Single Turnigy 8Ah 5S (30c-40c) Lipo packs are $75.
40 packs (20s 10P 80ah - 80% DOD = 64ah) $3,000
48 packs (20s 12P 96ah - 80% DOD = 76ah) $3,600
56 packs (20s 14P 102ah - 80% DOD = 81ah) $4,200

~$1,300 more for 96ah (76ah at 80% DOD). Probably better range at 80% DOD and they should last at least 1.5x as long, if they are used that way, which is the break even point. These prices don't include shipping. OTOH you could get a discount by hanging out on the site and I'd at least ask for a discount for a $3.6k order. I think Gary's solution is very very clever and it is about two thirds the cost upfront, but I think the long term costs for Lipo are comparable, or even less (which is great :D).

Also not having all the weight is a huge advantage of the Lipo.

Not only that, if the pack ever caught fire, and he has a video camera handy he could make a killer video :) :mrgreen:.
 
Awesome Gary, from Concept to Execution 8)

Any opportunity to take advantage of the Nano-tech's to recapture some of that 'hill-climb' potential energy?

The Nano-tech's high C-Rate charging could absorb up to 8 KW through Regen braking.

This would save brakes and extend your range even further. :mrgreen:
 
Hi,
Holocene said:
Any opportunity to take advantage of the Nano-tech's to recapture some of that 'hill-climb' potential energy?
It sounds like the GEM has regen?:
http://home.paonline.com/rmeyer32/GEM.html
"All you do is unplug the BDI, and plug in the cable to the computer. Reprogram the controller using the GE Sentry software. Then unplug the computer cable and replug in the BDI. Then turn off the GEM for about 15 seconds via the disconnect switch under the seat. Then turn it back on."

"I got the programming cable and software from Forklift Electronics and today, I successfully changed several values. It was a blast. My speedo was a little off..got that fixed using the GPS to compare. "

"I turned on the master switch and found the right port and it worked perfectly! Basically, I didn't change the acceleration because I overheat in the summer and don't really care if I make it up to 35 on the flats. In fact, there are no flats up here. I am either chugging along between 15 & 25 uphill, or wanting to coast downhill a little faster than 25 without having to constantly feather the accelerator. So I changed my rolling radius to 83. And since I was overheating so much last summer, I changed my pedal down regen decel rate to 130. It is perfect now!!
 
I drove one of these things for a few years at work. The 1.0 beta model basically. All I can say is when the batteries get low, you're going to get killed in this thing with the stock gels. It was at the point where it would be fast for about ... 10 minutes and then it went to about 12 mph. A hailstorm took out the sunroof, and then they scrapped it (!) because the vehicle was free and well, someone didn't want to buy batteries. Lame.

It had also been on fire at least twice, on its own. But the flames went out and it kept working so :roll:
 
MitchJi said:
Hi,
Holocene said:
Any opportunity to take advantage of the Nano-tech's to recapture some of that 'hill-climb' potential energy?
It sounds like the GEM has regen?:

Yes, it definitely has regen. I didn't know it was adjustable, however. I'm definitely going to look into getting one of those reprogramming kits. If nothing else, I can fix the speedometer readout, which is whacky now, due to the motor change. Anyway, thanks for the link. :)

As for the notion of going all LiPo, I might eventually go that route if and when these gels wear out, but for this go around, the booster pack option was much cheaper.

-- Gary
 
Awww, Gary. Shame, shame! I hope you put a bag over your head whenever you log on here. :roll: Spending that kind of money to put lead lumps into the beast... tsk, tsk
 
texaspyro said:
Awww, Gary. Shame, shame! I hope you put a bag over your head whenever you log on here. :roll: Spending that kind of money to put lead lumps into the beast... tsk, tsk

Ya, I know, I know, but at the time when the first gels died, I needed to get it back running as soon as possible, as this is my primary mode of transportation when my wife and/or son are not around. He works, and she was away at a conference for the week, so I decided to bite the lead bullet (pun intended... :roll: ).

This obviously left a bad taste in my mouth (metallic?), so I came up with this idea to help justify the decision. :roll: :mrgreen:

-- Gary
 
Hi Gary,

http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr37.htm
dmv.ca.gov said:
If you modify or alter your NEV/LSV to go faster than 25 miles per hour, you will no longer qualify for the relaxed FMVSS established for low speed vehicles. Your vehicle will then be required to meet the same federal standards established for passenger vehicles. Failure to comply with all necessary regulations may result in a citation.
GGoodrum said:
Now that I have essentially a 40mph+ golf cart, which is a kick-in-the-pants to drive, I decided I really needed to do something about its hill climbing performance.

-- Gary
You mean 40 kph :p :lol:?

Ride 4 fun has quite a few high performance options but nothing that addresses the problem you've solved with the Nano pack. I bet they'd be interested in what you've done, maybe even in purchasing some parts or getting some help developing a similar product.

If extending your range is a priority maybe 20s3p (24ah) of the 8ah Lipo packs (30c/40c) would have been a better choice? I think the price would be similar and the capacity would be more.

Since you seem to prefer Lead you might prefer swapping your Nano for more lead, like this (from a CL add) :p:
Mostly everything upgraded, including:

7 HP motor which was thoroughly cleaned & serviced last year.

*12* batteries (most GEMs have just 6) for better performance, longer range, higher speed. This makes a HUGE difference, compared to GEMs with 6 batteries.

Trojan batteries replaced two years ago: 30XHS-WNT, deep cycle.

New frame built for rear 6 batteries.

Battery watering system installed and very simple to use, making this part of the process very efficient and easy.

*2* Chargers -- which makes it really simple & convenient, which means you can basically plug it in anywhere.

Zivan NG3, 230V, 19A, 50-60Hz. This one charges fast as it is 220V.

DeltaQ is other charger, recently installed. Uses regular plug-in. (delta-q.com)

Currently used as an electric ice cream truck.
GemIceCreamCart.jpg

Actually thought you might be interested in the dual chargers/220V charger.
 
MitchJi said:
Hi Gary,

http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr37.htm
dmv.ca.gov said:
If you modify or alter your NEV/LSV to go faster than 25 miles per hour, you will no longer qualify for the relaxed FMVSS established for low speed vehicles. Your vehicle will then be required to meet the same federal standards established for passenger vehicles. Failure to comply with all necessary regulations may result in a citation.

I've been wondering about that "may result in a citation." What would you be cited with? Gas cars capable of going 160mph are required to meet crash protection standards for... 40mph (and 6mph and 3mph). As someone modifying their own vehicle... what could you be charged with? Something I have figured out looking at my title and plate and registration... nothing on any of them indicate I'm driving a NEV, no low speed plates in WA State. The title and registration just indicate E as the fuel type. So if I'm pulled over and I'm not speeding, but going over 25mph, what law have I broken?
 
MitchJi said:
Hi Gary,

http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr37.htm
dmv.ca.gov said:
If you modify or alter your NEV/LSV to go faster than 25 miles per hour, you will no longer qualify for the relaxed FMVSS established for low speed vehicles. Your vehicle will then be required to meet the same federal standards established for passenger vehicles. Failure to comply with all necessary regulations may result in a citation.
GGoodrum said:
Now that I have essentially a 40mph+ golf cart, which is a kick-in-the-pants to drive, I decided I really needed to do something about its hill climbing performance.

-- Gary
You mean 40 kph :p :lol:?

Uh, yeah... that's it. :roll:

MitchJi said:
Ride 4 fun has quite a few high performance options but nothing that addresses the problem you've solved with the Nano pack. I bet they'd be interested in what you've done, maybe even in purchasing some parts or getting some help developing a similar product.

I've talked to them, but they aren't too knowledgeable about anything other than various SLA options. Once I have this finished, and have some video to show them, their interest might be increased. Before that, however, I need to figure out a better packaging option. Right now, I just have the whole pack shrink wrapped, including the BMS bits. This is fine for my testing, etc., but a safer option would be to have a sealed metal case. That way, the case can act as a heatsink for the BMS shunt circuits. Initially, I've been running with just the control section board inside the pack, with the CellLogs providing individual cell LVC and HVC functions. I'm just finishing up the two 10-channel shunt circuit boards, and I have the pack opened up at the moment. I'm a bit worried that with shunts running, it will get too hot for the shrink wrap inside a sealed pack, so I'm thinking about sticking these two cards in a separate box, for now, until I can get a better handle on the kind of heat that is generated, for typical conditions.

MitchJi said:
If extending your range is a priority maybe 20s3p (24ah) of the 8ah Lipo packs (30c/40c) would have been a better choice? I think the price would be similar and the capacity would be more.

If I was starting today, I probably would go with a 20s2p setup of the 5s-8000 packs. At the time, I wasn't sure about how much voltage sag I'd see, so I decided to go with the Nanotechs. Also, these were what was available at the time, so I snatched them up. Days later, they were completely out-of-stock, and stayed that way for weeks.

MitchJi said:
Since you seem to prefer Lead you might prefer swapping your Nano for more lead, like this (from a CL add) :p:
Mostly everything upgraded, including:

7 HP motor which was thoroughly cleaned & serviced last year.

*12* batteries (most GEMs have just 6) for better performance, longer range, higher speed. This makes a HUGE difference, compared to GEMs with 6 batteries.

Trojan batteries replaced two years ago: 30XHS-WNT, deep cycle.

New frame built for rear 6 batteries.

Battery watering system installed and very simple to use, making this part of the process very efficient and easy.

*2* Chargers -- which makes it really simple & convenient, which means you can basically plug it in anywhere.

Zivan NG3, 230V, 19A, 50-60Hz. This one charges fast as it is 220V.

DeltaQ is other charger, recently installed. Uses regular plug-in. (delta-q.com)

Currently used as an electric ice cream truck.


Actually thought you might be interested in the dual chargers/220V charger.

Not a big fan of lead, but in this case, it made sense, when you keep things in the timeline perspective I mentioned earlier. Sure, I could've taken a year to over analyse the options, and come up with the absolute optimum configuration, but I needed to get this back to being usable right away, as it was, and still is, my primary vehicle. That said, I certainly wouldn't spend another $1800 on six more gels. :) If I need more range, I'll add more LiPo.

Even with only 10Ah, I am seeing a pretty significant increase in range. I haven't quantified this yet, but I hope to just as soon as I get the pack back together. One of the things I did with it apart this week was to tweak the resistor values that control the voltage point where the booster kicks in, as well as the voltage where the charge current is cutoff during a charge. For the charging part, I wanted to take advantage of how the DeltaQ charging profiles are setup. From what I've seen, the DeltaQ has three different CV phases, and an odd equalization phase at the end. The first CV point is at 82.8V, which works out to a "perfect" 4.14V per cell, for the booster pack. The current slowly drops from about 13-15A, down to about 6A, when it bumps the CV point up to 85.6V. During that period where the current going into the gels is dropping from 13A down to 6A, the LiPo cells will get full, and will balance. What the control circuit does now is that once the CV point is raised to the 85.6V level, the charge current will be cutoff. This happens as soon as the voltage rises above 83V.

On the discharge side, I changed a capacitor that controls how long the booster pack stays on, after it first kicks in. The reason this is needed is because as soon as the booster kicks in, the voltage jumps up above the turnon point, so the booster pack would be cutoff again. My initial guesstimate was that I would need about 10 seconds for the booster to be on, to get up the longest hill. With the values I had at hand, I could make it about 7 seconds, or I could make it stay on for 14 seconds. I went with the latter. What I forgot to factor in is that with the boost power, it doesn't take very long to get up any hill, so even 7 seconds is more than enough. With 14 seconds, the booster pack was staying on, and providing current in low demand conditions as well as when I needed to go up a hill. On longer rides (>10 miles...), this was causing the booster pack to drain down to LVC too early. What is interesting is that once the load is removed, the gels start charging the booster pack. This is actually an unplanned added "feature", as this should help increase the cell's longevity.

Anyway, I'm going to get this back together as quick as I can today, and get back to doing more range tests. The weather is finally back to more normal conditions, and its supposed to be over 90 today.

-- Gary
 
Just looking at the first picture I could tell you were in southern california. Lots of hills :)

Very cool. Now just form a company and try to swindle some investors and government money with your revolutionary stiffening packs! Needs a "futuristic" name though. li-pead?
 
auraslip said:
Just looking at the first picture I could tell you were in southern california. Lots of hills :)

Very cool. Now just form a company and try to swindle some investors and government money with your revolutionary stiffening packs! Needs a "futuristic" name though. li-pead?

Stiffy packs, I love it! :mrgreen:
 
Alan B said:
Nice setup. The booster turnoff should be current sensitive (with a timer for max duration). Then it can cut out earlier, as soon as you let off. This is useful for getting out of the way of the approaching train. :shock:

I thought about using current to detect the load, but that would mean using a big-ass shunt, or a hall-based current sensor, which is a lot more complicated. The voltage measuring technique actually works pretty well. The booster kicks in instantly, and then the timer circuit keeps it on for another 7 seconds after the load is removed.

Here's some more pictures, showing the balancing cell circuits, and how they fit into the "stack":

GEM Booster Pack-07.jpg
GEM Booster Pack-08.jpg
GEM Booster Pack-09.jpg

I was a little worried about the heat the shunts would generate, so I did a couple things. First, I adjusted the HVC "throttling" point so that the shunts are limited to about 700mA each. It turns out there's a pretty significant difference in the heat generated between about 700-750mA and the normal 1A+ we usually run these at. The second thing I did was to silicon glue some aluminum bars to the tops of the shunt resistors. Finally, I wrapped the whole assembly with some heat-resistant water heater tape. This combination of measures seems to do the trick because through several charge cycles now, there's pretty much no heat coming through to the shrink wrap.

View attachment 1
GEM Booster Pack-16.jpg

Next up is to do the long range capacity comparison tests, to try and quantify the range improvement the booster pack adds. I'll also post some of the CellLog plots of what the cells are actually doing, under load, and during the charge process.

-- Gary
 
Below are some CellLog graphs, from the first 8 cells. The plots from the rest of the cells look similar. Initially, I plugged in the GEM charger, in order to top off the cells, and balance them a bit. I unpluged the charger after I saw the cells were close to being full, went for about a 12 mile ride, came back and plugged the charger back in.

Before the booster pack was added, my max range in this area was about 15 miles. This distance would run the "gas gauge" down to a single red bar. There are 8 green bars, one yellow and one red, so ten total. After my 12 mile ride, with the booster pack connected, the gauge had just changed from 6 bars to 5 bars, so presumably, that means I still had about half left in the "tank". Realistically, I'm not so sure half the gel capacity is actually left, as I'm not sure how linear the readout is, but nonetheless, the apparent amount of capacity "recovery" was surprising. That would seem to indicate an increase in range to about 25 miles, which would be a 66% increase. Hard to believe the Peukert effect reduction would make that much difference, but we'll see. The max peak currents I'm seeing is about 190A, and it drops down over a few seconds. Anyway, I'm going to do an extended range check today, to try and quantify the increase, with a bit more accuracy.

Here's the charts:

GEM Charge-Discharge Test-05 Cells 1-8-Full.gif

Below is a zoomed in look at the first section. What is interesting to note is that you can see where the shunts come on for two of the cell groups, which is holding the voltages at the limit. This is allowing the other cells to catch up, and get more in balance. I was anxious to get going, so once I saw on the CellLogs that most of the cells were close, I unplugged the charger. Had I waited a bit longer, the cells would have gotten even closer in balance.

GEM Charge-Discharge Test-05 Cells 1-8-Part A.gif

The discharge portion is expanded below. Even though these are 25-50C Nanotechs, there's still a pretty good dip in voltage, with 190A loads.

GEM Charge-Discharge Test-05 Cells 1-8-Part B.gif

Finally, the last portion shows the cells charging again, after the ride.

GEM Charge-Discharge Test-05 Cells 1-8-Part C.gif

Not shown is the point later, when the charger starts to go into the gel equalization phase. In this mode, the charger raises the CV point to 98V and charges at a 2A rate. This takes a bit of time before this happens, but the LiPo cells never go above the shunt turnon point. As soon as the gel voltage gets above about 84.5V, the charge FETs are cutoff, and stay off until the gel voltage is back down under 80V, which won't happen until the next charge cycle.

Anyway, I'm very happy with the performance, so far. :)

-- Gary
 
Hi Gary,

Received via email (I started shopping for a used Gem and inquired about some components he's selling):
Michael said:
I went to 14" rims (cost me over $1,000 with tires and custom hubs) and netted about 10% higher ratio. so that when the speedo says 30 I am actually going 33. My car is faster on the flat but slower on hills with the bigger tires.

Excerpt from my reply:
Mitch said:
Sounds like you could use one of Gary's booster packs (if he doesn't make kits I'm sure he'd provide a list of parts and instructions):
Gary said:
Now that I have essentially a 40mph+ golf cart, which is a kick-in-the-pants to drive, I decided I really needed to do something about its hill climbing performance. Sure, I could simply replace the six 12V gel batteries with a roughly equivalent LiPo or LiFePO4 setup, but that would be pretty expensive...

I then stepped back, to look at the problem from a different angle. I decided that I could simply add a Lithium-based booster pack to the gels, if I could sort out keeping the booster pack off, when it wasn't needed, and if it could be charged at the same time as the gels, using the GEM's built-in 15A DeltaQ "smart" charger...

The best part about this setup is that the only connections that need to be made to install this in the GEM are two big battery cables that connect to the main gel + and - connections. Operation of the various modes is completely automatic. It kicks in during discharge, when it needs to, charges using the same built-in charger until the Nanaotech cells get to 4.14V, and then shuts down while the charger finishes charging the gels. :)

For the installation, the GEM battery compartment has plenty of room for this "loaf of bread" add-on. There is a steel bar that runs over the top of four of the gels, to hold them in place. I simply added a 3" aluminum plate to the top of this bar, using some U-bolts. The booster pack simply sits on top of this plate, held there with heavy-duty Velcro strips and some Velcro straps. Here's a couple shots of the installation:

I'm quite pleased with the results. I no longer get the huge sag, and subsequent slowing down, going up a hill. It just blasts over the top now. :) I'm also seeing quite a big jump in range. I haven't quantified it yet, but the added benefit of not having the voltage sag, going up hills, means the gels are not being worked as hard, so I get more capacity out of them. Definitely a win-win.
Michael said:
That's an interesting solution to the hill problem. I already have the 7.5 hp motor but have balked at the cost of Lithium battery packs. It would have to be plug and play for me to consider it. Thanks for the tip.

So I definitely think there's a decent niche market for booster kits.

Probably even a bigger market for roughly $2k-$2.5k plug and play 100ah-140ah lithium pack replacement. Just need to either find a good price or wait a year or two for prices to drop.
 
MitchJi said:
Hi Gary,

Received via email (I started shopping for a used Gem and inquired about some components he's selling):
Michael said:
I went to 14" rims (cost me over $1,000 with tires and custom hubs) and netted about 10% higher ratio. so that when the speedo says 30 I am actually going 33. My car is faster on the flat but slower on hills with the bigger tires.

Yes, that's about the same sort of difference I was seeing as well. With the 7.5hp motor and the speed sensor mod, the spped increased from 26 mph to about 36-37mph. The 14" wheels and tires put it a bit over 40mph.

MitchJi said:
So I definitely think there's a decent niche market for booster kits.

I agree. I would definitely like to productionize this pack, and come up with a custom metal enclosure/case. Such a case could have clamps built-in, for attaching it to steel bar that runs on top of the gels, to hold them in. It would also have slots for the PCBs. In the meantime, I am going to do a kit form of this, for those that want "roll their own". :) I'm going to be doing a couple more booster packs, right away, for a couple of other GEM owners in the area where I live. For these, I'm going to go with a bit more capacity, 15-16Ah, instead of 10Ah. I've been looking at the 5s-8000 Zippy packs, but the shipping limit restriction is a pain. Instead, I might go with 12 5s-5000 Turnigys, as they are stocked in the USA warehouse. This would be a 20s3p 15Ah configuration. Another change I'm going to do is not use the long format packs this time. Having all the connections on one end seems like a plus, but it really does make for a rat's nest of wires. This time I will mount the packs back-to-back, and then put a balance board, with all the pack connections, on each end.

MitchJi said:
Probably even a bigger market for roughly $2k-$2.5k plug and play 100ah-140ah lithium pack replacement. Just need to either find a good price or wait a year or two for prices to drop.

We are still a ways away from a $2500 Lithium-based replacement with a 100Ah capacity. Using LiPo, that would be 20s20p, so 80 5s-5000 packs. At roughly $45 each that would be $3600, just for the packs. You'd still have to figure out a clever way to mount and connect them as well. The control electronics would be a lot simpler, though, because you wouldn't the special logic for controlling when the pack kicks in.

A more practical way to do a lithium-based replacement, in my opinion, would be to use a 24s5p setup of a123 20Ah pouch cells, if we can ever get access to them. Maybe through Mavizen? Anyway, even if we could get them, at $50 each that would be $6k. That's almost as much as I paid for my whole GEM. :eek: :)

-- Gary
 
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