Need advice on my latest Christalyte 408 problem

[Larry]

Been reading the forum every day for the last couple of months since I bought a 408 brushless front motor kit--36 Volt 20 amp controller with a lighted 36v thumb throttle. You guys are addictive.

Anyway, The latest problem appears to be a hall sensor problem. Whenever you hit the throttle, the motor turns for about a second, then stops. Following previous posts I did the "slow wheel spin" voltage test on each of the 3 hall sensor wires. Two of them check out ok--They alternate between 13v and 0v like they are supposed to. The yellow wire only shows less than 1v.

A continuity check on the yellow wire (and the others)from the controller down to the connecter near the motor shows the wire itself is ok. So, I am concluding that it is the sensor or the wiring inside the hub motor that is the problem.

Now for the questions:

One site I visited, says the easiest thing to do to keep from scrapping the motor entirely is to buy a Pedal First controller and just run it as Pedal First. Will the throttle I currently have work with a pedal first controller or will I need to get some other type of throttle. The one I have is the "fuel guage" type lighted thumb throttle that has "36v" sticker on it.

I haven't opened up the motor. Is there any way to fix/replace a bad sensor? If so, is it a realtively easy task and where would I get a replacement sensor?

Any advice before I give up and start shopping for a pedal first controller?

Thanks,

 

[Ypedal]

Yes, your throttle can work with a PF controller.. the conectors are either 3 or 4 pin ( 3 for the throttle and 1 for the LED )... so confirm this if and when you go the PF route.

The hall sensors rarely fail, have you inspected the conector on the controller side ? does it have the metal Hall wire conector or a Plastic one ?

 

[fechter]

It's not that hard to replace the sensor.
They are available.
I don't remember the number on them

 

[xyster]

Since the motor was purchased a couple months ago, isn't it still under warranty?

 

[Larry]

Thanks for responding guys,

The hall connector in the controller is a white plastic one. I checked it as well as the connector on the motor end and they both look ok. No bent pins or anything. And the continuity check on the wire between the two connectors checks out ok.

I'm afraid the dealor I purchased from only provides a 30 day warranty. I'm thinking maybe the motor might be one of the older models I've read about that has the suspect hall wiring in the motor that gets torn up by the sharp axle edges. Just a guess, though, since I haven't attempted to take the motor apart.

I know you guys would take a hairpin, a beer can pop top, and some duct tape and miraculously fix everything-just like McGyver. But what should a relative newbie like me do? If its pretty easy to get into the motor and replace the sensor, let me know if its something I should attempt. Any leads on what dealer might have the sensor I would neeed?

Thanks again,

 

[BiGH]

well the way i see it u have two options - 1 to open the motor and test it with the side plate off (so u can test the wire closer to the sensor)

or sell the motor and get a new one. I'm sure someone here would consider buying it as a backup.

also next time try to buy from someone who offers more than 30days ...

 

[Dalecv]

Can you post some pictures of your motor?

When you remove the side covers on a hub motor the armature is pulled to the magnets at the rim and it is not easy to remove to replace the hall effect sensors. You will be able to test the wires with the side cover off with out having to remove the armature.

 

[knoxie]

Hi

Pretty much any bipolar hall sensor should work in theory, I dont know which ones that they use on the xlyte controllers though, the Puma motors use the SS413A sensor, this works fine with the Xlyte controller so I cant see why it would not work in the wheel, the operating release point may be a factor, try and measure the distance between the magnet and the sensor if you can and tell me what it is.

Any Honeywell stockist would stock these devices and they wont cost you very much at all, on the Puma motor I simply fitted the new sensor over the old one and glued it in place, worked like a charm, hall sensors do go wrong I have had it happen on a Kol motor as well, cheap but not always easy to fix!!



Cheers and good luck

Knoxie

 

[Ypedal]

http://ebikes.ca/store/

If you end up in the motor and do find a bad sensor.. Justin at ebikes.ca should be able to supply one !!

 

[Ypedal]

Also helpful:

http://ebikes.ca/troubleshooting.shtml

 

[deecanio]

if your out of guarantee i would take a look inside the motor - im a noob too when it comes to trouble shooting but you have nothing to lose.
I wouldn't sell the motor either, seems a little drastic? have a look slowly and if your not sure post pics and ask again stage by stage.


cheers


D