AussieJester
1 TW
McDesign said:
And did you come to the conclusion another veeee-hic-hle with a blown V8
in it was going to be cheaper, easier and more practical? :: cross fingers ::
Lovely house and fantastic job on the reno work too BTW...
KiM
Need E-truck concept advice - newbie
- Thread starter McDesign
- Start date
And did you come to the conclusion another veeee-hic-hle with a blown V8
in it was going to be cheaper, easier and more practical? :: cross fingers ::
Lovely house and fantastic job on the reno work too BTW...
KiM
TylerDurden
100 GW
The paint on the shop windows is not that bad... but there are some spots where the glass still shows.
So... still rekon on 3,000lbs for motor and batts? If you have abundant supply you can run the DoD deeper and use fewer (kill em fast and get more).
So... still rekon on 3,000lbs for motor and batts? If you have abundant supply you can run the DoD deeper and use fewer (kill em fast and get more).
McDesign
100 W
I posted this on the FYI E-Vehicles site - an update on my thumbnail calculations.
LOAD
I've loaded my truck to weigh ~6500#, and driven to Atlanta and back along Interstate-20 a few times. If I baby it, I can squeak by at 20 mpg for the 60 mile RT. This is carbureted, but I do have a wide-band O2 sensor and have been playing with jetting to optimize highway mileage. However, it still includes rear axle and transmission losses.
That's 0.05 gallons/mile. Gasoline is 115,000 BTU/gallon, so in a mile I've burned one-twentieth of that, or 5750 BTUs worth of gasoline.
An older carbureted gasoline vehicle is at best 18% efficient.
That means that in each mile, the gasoline I've burned has supplied me with only 1035 BTUs of energy to propel the truck.
1 kWh is 3414 BTUs, so ON GASOLINE, at 6500 lbs and ~50-55 MPH I've used (1035 BTUs)/(3414 BTUs/mile), or .303 kWh per mile, or 303 Whrs/mile. This doesn't include future elctric motor efficiency losses, but it does include all drivetrain and tire losses for this actual vehicle at this actual weight - even a non-lockup automatic transmission.
Further – ignoring motor/controller efficiency, if I assume that my average range at 50-55 MPH has to be 70 miles, and I pull the batteries down 75% in that time, that makes the pack size (.303 kWh/mile)*(70 miles) / (.75%) = 28 kWhr.
So, my thinking (hoping!) was more along the lines of a 30-35 kWhr pack
BATTERY PACK
An initial look at the GB Industrial Battery site shows me battery model FS23S-6C413. It’s listed at 12 Volts / 300 Ah, or 3.6 kWhr, and weighs 324 lbs. So, if I use ten of them, that gives me a 120V pack with a 36 kWhr capacity.
WEIGHT
This pack would weigh 3240 lbs. My truck is now 4080 lbs full of gas (from the legal scale at the quarry). Engine, auto trans, radiator, and gas tank removal will pull that down ~a thousand lbs, and I’ll take out the bed and only keep the rear fenders and hollowed tailgate, so say the bare truck is down to 2800 lbs. That weight, plus 200# me, 3240# batteries, plus 250# for motor, puts me at about the 6500# target.
Such is my thinking.
Anyone please add anything pertinent!
Forrest - newbie
LOAD
I've loaded my truck to weigh ~6500#, and driven to Atlanta and back along Interstate-20 a few times. If I baby it, I can squeak by at 20 mpg for the 60 mile RT. This is carbureted, but I do have a wide-band O2 sensor and have been playing with jetting to optimize highway mileage. However, it still includes rear axle and transmission losses.
That's 0.05 gallons/mile. Gasoline is 115,000 BTU/gallon, so in a mile I've burned one-twentieth of that, or 5750 BTUs worth of gasoline.
An older carbureted gasoline vehicle is at best 18% efficient.
That means that in each mile, the gasoline I've burned has supplied me with only 1035 BTUs of energy to propel the truck.
1 kWh is 3414 BTUs, so ON GASOLINE, at 6500 lbs and ~50-55 MPH I've used (1035 BTUs)/(3414 BTUs/mile), or .303 kWh per mile, or 303 Whrs/mile. This doesn't include future elctric motor efficiency losses, but it does include all drivetrain and tire losses for this actual vehicle at this actual weight - even a non-lockup automatic transmission.
Further – ignoring motor/controller efficiency, if I assume that my average range at 50-55 MPH has to be 70 miles, and I pull the batteries down 75% in that time, that makes the pack size (.303 kWh/mile)*(70 miles) / (.75%) = 28 kWhr.
So, my thinking (hoping!) was more along the lines of a 30-35 kWhr pack
BATTERY PACK
An initial look at the GB Industrial Battery site shows me battery model FS23S-6C413. It’s listed at 12 Volts / 300 Ah, or 3.6 kWhr, and weighs 324 lbs. So, if I use ten of them, that gives me a 120V pack with a 36 kWhr capacity.
WEIGHT
This pack would weigh 3240 lbs. My truck is now 4080 lbs full of gas (from the legal scale at the quarry). Engine, auto trans, radiator, and gas tank removal will pull that down ~a thousand lbs, and I’ll take out the bed and only keep the rear fenders and hollowed tailgate, so say the bare truck is down to 2800 lbs. That weight, plus 200# me, 3240# batteries, plus 250# for motor, puts me at about the 6500# target.
Such is my thinking.
Anyone please add anything pertinent!
Forrest - newbie
dnmun
1 PW
use 100k btu/g for the gas we have to buy now with 10% ethanol added. premium gas is about 130k without ethanol. unleaded 117-120k.
McDesign
100 W
Hummm! Did not know that - need to check my sources for more modern info - thanks.
Forrest
Forrest
TylerDurden
100 GW
At 50-55mph you might easily pull >700Wh/mi.
I have never seen PbA deliver even half its capacity at full boogie.
I have never seen PbA deliver even half its capacity at full boogie.
McDesign
100 W
Okay - I took the advice from here, and morphed the truck project into a more realistic one.
I bought my brother's purchased-new-by-him 1991 2-door Accord; 5-sp manual and 192,000 miles - he's kept it in nice shape. I see a couple of conversions on that big list, so folks have done it.
I've set up a specific $28K checking account for the conversion; gonna' keep a detailed build accounting.
I need to do this by the fall.
First question - what if I leave the clutch installed, and give the motor an "idle" function to run the accessories (AC, mostly)? Is this often done? Otherwise, a small motor for the AC compressor, but is that any more efficient?
And - AC or DC motor? This is to be a commuter; need a 90-mile range (or 75 if I recharge at work).
What's the absolute best LIFePO battery manufacturer / product for this?
I'll start a specific build thread once I get going.
Forrest
I bought my brother's purchased-new-by-him 1991 2-door Accord; 5-sp manual and 192,000 miles - he's kept it in nice shape. I see a couple of conversions on that big list, so folks have done it.
I've set up a specific $28K checking account for the conversion; gonna' keep a detailed build accounting.
I need to do this by the fall.
First question - what if I leave the clutch installed, and give the motor an "idle" function to run the accessories (AC, mostly)? Is this often done? Otherwise, a small motor for the AC compressor, but is that any more efficient?
And - AC or DC motor? This is to be a commuter; need a 90-mile range (or 75 if I recharge at work).
What's the absolute best LIFePO battery manufacturer / product for this?
I'll start a specific build thread once I get going.
Forrest
TylerDurden
100 GW
The truck topic has run its course...McDesign said:
Might as well shift to a new topic now with your questions, to keep it all in one place?
McDesign
100 W
Hmmmm - good point. I'll take a pic of the car and start a new thread with that.
Forrest
Forrest
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