Need help with ESC & display setup.

[apprisco]

Hi, I'm working on wiring a 3500W ESC, 72v.

From what i've discovered... the sellers actually make specific displays and wire them in a way that only their display will work.
I have a standard 5 wire display.. with ground and negative power terminal as 2 wires, (ground is for screen and potentiometer), and 2 more wires for the potentiometer, 1 wire for the key/voltage reading for the screen.
5 wire setup.

Is there any way to trick this ESC into working?
The compatible display apparently has modes and even an USB port.
I'd basically like to set it to the maximum setting.

 

[amberwolf]

You'll need to give us specific model numbers and "brand names", and hopefully links to the seller pages of the equipment in question. Without that, it's quite difficult to tell you how you might be able to get them to work together, if at all, as there are way too many controllers and displays out there to guess.

There is no "standard" protocol or wiring or functionality for controllers or displays, so with a few exceptions, if the display didn't come with the ocntroller as a kit, it probably can't be made to fully work. Typically all you get is the power button working, and perhaps the battery meter, assuming the two have compatible wiring and voltages and functions to make anything work at all.

The wiring is often "compatible" in that there is usually a Battery +, Battery -, KeySwitch/Ignition, Data TX and Data RX. As long as the display and controller are both meant to run on the battery voltage you have, then B+ and B- will probably work fine wihtout blowing anything up. The KSI wire just sends B+ back to the controler's KSI wire

But the signals sent on the TX and RX are in different "languages", or at least different "dialects" so the info can't be interpreted by the other unit. There are threads about the various protocols, some of which have been decoded at least partially, so you might be able to use that information to program an arduino or other MCU to translate back and forth between controller/display as needed, if you have desire and/or experience in that.

Otherwise, if the two you have are not compatible (which we don't know yet till you tell us exactly what you have), you'd have to buy either a new controller or a new display that is compatible with the part you're keeping.

Hi, I'm working on wiring a 3500W ESC, 72v.

From what i've discovered... the sellers actually make specific displays and wire them in a way that only their display will work.
I have a standard 5 wire display.. with ground and negative power terminal as 2 wires, (ground is for screen and potentiometer), and 2 more wires for the potentiometer, 1 wire for the key/voltage reading for the screen.
5 wire setup.

Is there any way to trick this ESC into working?
The compatible display apparently has modes and even an USB port.
I'd basically like to set it to the maximum setting.

 

[apprisco]

ZB6045 ESCs, https://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-72v-Tw...rentrq:5a9869171770aad30fc3cd85fffb8416|iid:1 for throttle.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000812863170.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.26504c4d1APu1a
for ESC.

I was basically just hoping I could somehow wire them together without the compatible display... guess not.

 

[amberwolf]

ZB6045 ESCs

This doesn't come up in a google search, and I've never heard of them. Do you have a link to the manufacturer page for that specific controller model?

for throttle.

This would probably work fine with pretty much any controller that uses a hall-based throttle input, which is almost all ebike and scooter controllers. It just requires determining which wires on it correspond to which same functional wire on the controller. The "display" is just a voltmeter, so it gets connected to whatever gets you battery positive when the bike is "on". The throttle will have three wires, 5v, ground (which is probably shared with the voltmeter), and throttle signal out, all of which go to the controller's throttle connector. The keyswitch could be wired in a few different ways. If it has two separate wires just for it, then it's usually used between the controller orange (KSI, keyswitch ignition, doorlock, etc) wire and the main battery positive wire to the battery.

The ebay link has some text in it that says:

Throttle has a simple 5 wire connection with 2.6mm brass male pins attached ..black-Ground,Red-5v variable in,green 0-5v variable out and then 2 wires that connect to the power locks to turn controller on and off and it gets signal there for display

Which means that the voltmeter battery positive is already connected internally to one side of the keyswitch, and that is the side you connect to the orange wire. The other side of the keyswitch goes to battery positive. The other three wires (red, black, green) go to the controller throttle connector, which probably has the same colors. If it doesnt', it might be red, black, white (where white and green connect).

Controllers that normally come with a display don't have an orange KSI/lock wire, because this wire is in the bundle that goes to the display, and the display turns it on and off. If your controller is a model like that, then we'd need specifics on which wires are which on the display connector, to pull the right one out of it and connect your keyswitch/voltmeter to it.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000812863170.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.26504c4d1APu1a
for ESC.

This comes up for me as a rounded display unit of a type I've never seen from a brand I havent' heard of (zhaobang).

Since the controller model is "ZB..." then I'd guess the display linked and the controller (ESC) named are the same brand, and thus probably work together, as long as their plugs all just mate right up.


If, as is possible, by "display" you mean the throttle you have with the key and voltmeter on it, and you do not have the display linked to on aliexpress, but rather have one of their controllers instead, then I can only answer that using the above instructions should get the throttle and voltmeter and keyswitch working...but I have no idea if their controllers operate fully (or at all) without their specific display for that specific controller.

Some controllers, without their display, default to some low-power usage mode that restricts speed and power and other things, and require the display to change that every time you turn them on via the buttons on it. I've never seen this brand before, so don't know if this is one of those.