New Bafang Crank-Drives

opperpanter said:
The kits I got from Paul/em3ev came was the C965A display. This display can have maximum speed limit set to 99.9km/h.
Will post manual later.

And C965 pinouts
 

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mwkeefer said:
The software is actually easy to use but designed for the BBS01 - don't have one any more to check controller model and revision, may be the same as in the BBS02. I've got an open source version which will be coming soon and will hopefully be simpler to understand.

ref http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104&p=877456&hilit=Bafang+source#p877456

Hi Mike, any news on your open source controller config project? I'd be keen to take a look if it's going to be linux-friendly. Otherwise I can get by with the stock Bafang windows software just to get going.

FYI I'm just tuning up my BBS02 mounted on a Cannondale 20" hooligan - my first build. With factory controller settings she's a bit dangerous, I need to tame her down a bit. Will post some pics soon.

Cheers Chris
 
Warren said:
"Since the max amp draw is around 17-18 Amps, I guess this is the 500W version? How would the data/curve look for 750W?'

It would look exactly the same.
The curves would look the same until the point where the 17 A limit is reached, which you can see when the cyan curve levels off, at about 70 Nm. Beyond this, a higher current limit would result in the following:

Battery current (cyan) would level off at 25 A, at about 25*70/17 = 100 Nm
Input power (brown) would level off at 25*48 = 1200 W at 100 Nm
RPM (red) would fall off less quickly between 70-100 Nm, then more quickly beyond this
Output power (blue) would continue to increase, reach a maximum probably somewhere around 100Nm at a level of 700-750 W, then decrease.
Efficiency (magenta) would probably look about the same, just continuing to decrease
About 80% of no load speed is most efficient, about 50% of no load is most [strike]torque[/strike] power.
Fixed. Torque continues to increase as RPM decreases (unless the controller limits phase current, in which case it levels off at lower RPM).
 
crazypick said:
mwkeefer said:
I've got an open source version which will be coming soon and will hopefully be simpler to understand.
Hi Mike, any news on your open source controller config project?
That was a while ago; since then he's ditched the Bafang controller entirely and has been running the drive with external controllers. Search his posts for details.
 
Just did the first test run on my MTB with the BBS02 and 50V 1250Wh battery from em3ev.

It was just a quick test as it's only 4 degrees Celcsius here.

Topspeed seems to max out at 42.7km/h (set the limit in the display to 60km/h).

With the 44T x 11T gearing, this is about 80-90rpm.

I was expecting the BBS02 to go all the way to ~110rpm?

At 42.7km/h it didn't feel power limited. As the display is showing at most 999W I don't know the exact power draw, but it's at least 999W.
 
opperpanter said:
With the 44T x 11T gearing, this is about 80-90rpm.

I was expecting the BBS02 to go all the way to ~110rpm?
Depending on the programming, the cadence may be limited in the software. Try different PAS levels and see if this cadence limit changes.
 
cycborg said:
opperpanter said:
With the 44T x 11T gearing, this is about 80-90rpm.

I was expecting the BBS02 to go all the way to ~110rpm?
Depending on the programming, the cadence may be limited in the software. Try different PAS levels and see if this cadence limit changes.
The kits from em3ev are (supposed to be) programmed with 100% throttle in all PAS levels.

I did the test using throttle only, but I could try to see if using a higher PAS will affect the top speed for throttle.

EDIT: unloaded it will go to 60km/h easily, so rpms are not limited I think.
 
The product page at em3ev now has all manuals available, also for the C965(A) with 5 buttons.

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=45&product_id=187
 
cycborg said:
Warren said:
"Since the max amp draw is around 17-18 Amps, I guess this is the 500W version? How would the data/curve look for 750W?'

It would look exactly the same.
The curves would look the same until the point where the 17 A limit is reached, which you can see when the cyan curve levels off, at about 70 Nm. Beyond this, a higher current limit would result in the following:

Battery current (cyan) would level off at 25 A, at about 25*70/17 = 100 Nm
Input power (brown) would level off at 25*48 = 1200 W at 100 Nm
RPM (red) would fall off less quickly between 70-100 Nm, then more quickly beyond this
Output power (blue) would continue to increase, reach a maximum probably somewhere around 100Nm at a level of 700-750 W, then decrease.
Efficiency (magenta) would probably look about the same, just continuing to decrease
About 80% of no load speed is most efficient, about 50% of no load is most [strike]torque[/strike] power.
Fixed. Torque continues to increase as RPM decreases (unless the controller limits phase current, in which case it levels off at lower RPM).
Thanks.

This may mean it would be good for me to limit the max current to 18Amps.
Since I am riding on throttle only, I see that the current quickly goes above 25A.
It gives a nice boost during acceleration, but won't be too efficient.
 
Careful, if you bought from Cell_Man. He's had it with experimenters trashing their controllers and crying insisting on new controllers. Unless you clearly understand the complexities and the potential problem with playing at settings I suggest you leave it alone. BTW he IS a member and does read threads. We've communicated about a couple of them. A set of parameters coded by someone you doesn't have a drive hardly seems a sensible solution. Frankly I'd get the settings that EM3ev used and simply replicate those. The most recent are some of the best by most reports. The BBS02 is no hot rod to be punched up by experimenting, at least no one has shown a reliable path that is much of an improvement of EM3ev settings. Hell Paul even managed to make some early errors and had to eat some controllers.

I looked at some settings by some of the brighter engineering types hanging here. Take a look at some of the settings Kepler used for some safe guidance. The BBS0xis a great reliable drive, but it's not a tinkerers drive with room for much improvement. Problems with asshats messing with unknown settings has already shut down access to controllers by EM3ev non customers. Whiners trashing while programming and then whimpering warranty. Nutless twerps ruined a good source.
 
tomjasz said:
Careful, if you bought from Cell_Man. He's had it with experimenters trashing their controllers and crying insisting on new controllers. Unless you clearly understand the complexities and the potential problem with playing at settings I suggest you leave it alone. BTW he IS a member and does read threads. We've communicated about a couple of them. A set of parameters coded by someone you doesn't have a drive hardly seems a sensible solution. Frankly I'd get the settings that EM3ev used and simply replicate those. The most recent are some of the best by most reports. The BBS02 is no hot rod to be punched up by experimenting, at least no one has shown a reliable path that is much of an improvement of EM3ev settings. Hell Paul even managed to make some early errors and had to eat some controllers.

I looked at some settings by some of the brighter engineering types hanging here. Take a look at some of the settings Kepler used for some safe guidance. The BBS0xis a great reliable drive, but it's not a tinkerers drive with room for much improvement. Problems with asshats messing with unknown settings has already shut down access to controllers by EM3ev non customers. Whiners trashing while programming and then whimpering warranty. Nutless twerps ruined a good source.
To who is your reply addressed? I just talked about *downgrading* my unit to 500Watt in the exact same way cell_man does.
 
Since no one was quoted you can take it as a generalized comment. Relax.
 
Dork bike, flat foot towns style has perfect chainline. Sorry no breaks or undo wear.
 
John Bozi said:
how many of you banfangers have broken chains and how many times?

Im over a few. note I havent got a very good chain line to granny


I mangled a link within the first 3 weeks - I think it had more to do with indiscriminate shifting under load more than anything. My chainline is off by quite some so I'm limited to the 6 highest sprockets or so as well; most of the time it stays in the smallest 3. I've ordered a new hardened kmc e-bike chain, a new steel sprocket set, and a custom 42t chainring which will bring the chainline back in to where it should be, all of which should help with chain slips, chain drops and broken links.
 
Ade said:
John Bozi said:
how many of you banfangers have broken chains and how many times?

Im over a few. note I havent got a very good chain line to granny


I mangled a link within the first 3 weeks - I think it had more to do with indiscriminate shifting under load more than anything. My chainline is off by quite some so I'm limited to the 6 highest sprockets or so as well; most of the time it stays in the smallest 3. I've ordered a new hardened kmc e-bike chain, a new steel sprocket set, and a custom 42t chainring which will bring the chainline back in to where it should be, all of which should help with chain slips, chain drops and broken links.

I would run the the 42t for a better line too, problem is then my gearing gets worse. I have a 30t front, which is crucial for the steep mountains. Even when I ran 30 front 32 granny in a 20" wheel I still had mountain passes the bafang would bog on.

ah well I am enjoying it onroad at high speeds in 26" for a bit longer but it seems there is no solution for me with this motor. maybe do a custom a big block....
 
John Bozi said:
how many of you banfangers have broken chains and how many times?

Broken chain on my 1st long ride. :oops:
I bought a new chain but I may have to spend a bit more on a stronger chain the 'next' time it happens. :shock:
 
Ade said:
and a custom 42t chainring which will bring the chainline back in to where it should be, all of which should help with chain slips, chain drops and broken links.

I also have a chainline issue so I am interested in your custom option. Do you have a link by any chance?

Thanks
Andrew
 
Since we're on the topic of chainline, what's the best IGH for the bbs02 in terms of achieving the best chainline? I measured my current chainline to be about 54mm.
 
Ade said:
Aushiker said:
Ade said:
and a custom 42t chainring which will bring the chainline back in to where it should be, all of which should help with chain slips, chain drops and broken links.
I also have a chainline issue so I am interested in your custom option. Do you have a link by any chance?ThanksAndrew
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=197
No 38T?????? pity. Its far better suited for the 250W Bafang on City Bikes with 8 speed Nexus hubs.
 
Ade said:
Aushiker said:
Ade said:
and a custom 42t chainring which will bring the chainline back in to where it should be, all of which should help with chain slips, chain drops and broken links.

I also have a chainline issue so I am interested in your custom option. Do you have a link by any chance?

Thanks
Andrew

California E-bikes sells two sizes of chain ring adapters for the BBS0x. You can see them both at :
http://california-ebike.com/product-category/replacement-parts/
 
leelorr said:
California E-bikes sells two sizes of chain ring adapters for the BBS0x. You can see them both at :
http://california-ebike.com/product-category/replacement-parts/

Yes, I had one and used it for a 36T chainring but, using them as intended will probably put your chainline out some. One of the guys here suggests to turn them around and use a spacer which will impact the chainline less. They still won't put the chainline back as much as the stock chainring though as it's dished, and the bling ring has an even more pronounced offset.
 
Since this is a DIY web site I thought I would suggest a cheap alternative. I've taken cheap steal chain rings from sick bike and drilled 5 holes in them to mount directly to the motor. Some care must be taken when drilling the 5 holes but it does work. There is a down side and potential issue. The center hole on the sick bike chain rings is larger than the center hole on the stock bafang ring so all of the load goes to the 5 screws attaching the chain ring to the motor. This could eventually snap the screws. I have not had a problem in 200 miles but beware I have detuned my bafang to a max of 800 watts and typically ride between 400 and 600 watts. The 750 at full strength could be an issue as it can pull well over 1000 watts
I use mine with a 9 speed cassette and the chain line is ok not great but it shifts fine and chain does not fall off. I am using a front derailleur as a gauge to keep the chain from falling off.
Good luck
 
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