New Bafang Crank-Drives

[pounce]

in the leather bag, there is not enough room to fit a large battery.
thats why I made this.
I'll put a 36V11,25Ah Samsung ICR18650-22P battery in each bag.
22.5Ah that would be enough.

Mike

[/quote]

The hawk frame bag looks nice also.

[img]http://hawkclassic.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/pedelec-option_detail_c.jpg

 

[Kai]

Buyers befare, you might not be able to get spare parts easily. I have been asking for replacement pedal crank arms from GE Battery, but I their only answer was that cranks are not covered by warranty. I asked them three times "can I buy replacement cranks from you?" but I haven't got any replies for a week. So I guess they are not interested in customer service or standing behind their product

EDIT:
I finally got their attention, the price of a crank pairs only 4.5 USD shipping is 35 USD which is a bit expensive coming from China. I'll order two pairs just in case.

 

[Rollodo]

Buyers befare, you might not be able to get spare parts easily. I have been asking for replacement pedal crank arms from GE Battery, but I their only answer was that cranks are not covered by warranty. I asked them three times "can I buy replacement cranks from you?" but I haven't got any replies for a week. So I guess they are not interested in customer service or standing behind their product

EDIT:
I finally got their attention, the price of a crank pairs only 4.5 USD shipping is 35 USD which is a bit expensive coming from China. I'll order two pairs just in case.

I think it makes sense for lcrewse or mwkeefer to get a bunch of these in stock (since they appear to be vendors for these), if they plan to support these drives. The hefty $35 shipping is mostly due to the 'overseas' factor. A small USPS box containing the parts wouldn't cost more than $5.

 

[Warren]

The factory cranks only come in 170 mm, black. Any bike shop can get you cranks in a week from J&B Imports, fast and cheap. Square taper cranks come with the hole oriented horizontally, or diagonally. But if you are buying two, even that won't matter. Get two lefts. Have the mechanic run his right-hand tap through one from the back face. It will work perfectly on the right. Just make sure you start the pedal in by hand before you put a wrench to it, so you don't have it cross-threaded.

http://www.jbimporters.com/web/ProductSearchMethod.php?CatOne=CRANK+ARMS+%26+SETS&Cat1Id_Sub=LEFT+HAND+ARMS&rhgfdT35dh=2

 

[--freeride--]

The factory cranks only come in 170 mm, black. Any bike shop can get you cranks in a week from J&B Imports, fast and cheap. Square taper cranks come with the hole oriented horizontally, or diagonally. But if you are buying two, even that won't matter. Get two lefts. Have the mechanic run his right-hand tap through one from the back face. It will work perfectly on the right. Just make sure you start the pedal in by hand before you put a wrench to it, so you don't have it cross-threaded.

http://www.jbimporters.com/web/ProductSearchMethod.php?CatOne=CRANK+ARMS+%26+SETS&Cat1Id_Sub=LEFT+HAND+ARMS&rhgfdT35dh=2

I would recommend roadbike-cranks, they are more straight than MTBs. So they better fit the wide axle and are more like the stock crankes.
I will cut the spider and file the rest down on the right hand crank.

 

[Warren]

Yes. If you are actually planning to pedal, this is true. I get the impression most here aren't. Older road cranksets were flatter than newer stuff too. The newer systems use a shorter bottom bracket axle, and angled/offset cranks to save weight.

 

[Spacey]

I am still having a nightmare with GEBattery.com with my 2 x BS01's. They have finally come to terms with what I have been saying all week.... that the units were programmed for no throttle!

Spent a LONG time testing throttles and cables etc... I do hate being made to feel like I am lying and trying to scam them. I would love it if they worked straight out of the box for testing, but without throttle I can barely get this motor over 14mph on a flat road with no wind.

The motors though are of excellent build and this problem is purely because the wrong motors were sent to me. Hopefully will have this problem sorted out this week.

 

[Mike Zapata]

have almost the same problem with throttle but power is enough (40km/h with the Hudson flat road, no wind)
only three throttle stages: 0 /3.7 and 24Km/h (see graph) (in first gear nexus 7 wheel of ground)
It's all in the programming.
we need urgent the right software.

 

[Avigo]

The motor did not last long :x It did 91 km, started life last week. It died when I clocked
speed consistently 20-35 km for a 10 km trip with small hills.
I wonder if I can get the motor replaced, anyway the motor is too small
for my speed requirement. Mine came with the speed limiter removed.
The coil is cooked.....

I did not get any overheating readout or shutdown from the bbs02

 

[Melbourne]

The motor did not last long :x It did 91 km, started life last week. It died when I clocked
speed consistently 20-35 km for a 10 km trip with small hills.
I wonder if I can get the motor replaced, anyway the motor is too small
for my speed requirement. Mine came with the speed limiter removed.
The coil is cooked.....

I did not get any overheating readout or shutdown from the bbs02

Damn... manuf defect!

I push my 350w36v to the limit -32kph-40kph and still ok., blowup the battery bms .. its been running for ~1month ~800kms...

 

[coachstevo]

The newer systems use a shorter bottom bracket axle, and angled/offset cranks to save weight.

The shorter, wider diameter spindles are actually to increase stiffness, the hollowing and materials choices ( mostly hollow spindles and hollow carbon crank arms now) are to save weight.
Lately the focus is primarily stiffness, these things trickle down from road racing which has a UCI mandated weight minimum (roughly 15.1#s).

 

[Spacey]

Update, they now say that the motor was programmed wrong but want me to pay to send them back and also pay for 2 x controllers plus delivery.

Not really a fault of mine and in good will they should just send out 2 x correctly programmed controllers and I will destroy the pointless 2 x controllers that I have.

 

[Rollodo]

Update, they now say that the motor was programmed wrong but want me to pay to send them back and also pay for 2 x controllers plus delivery.

Not really a fault of mine and in good will they should just send out 2 x correctly programmed controllers and I will destroy the pointless 2 x controllers that I have.

They're pointless to you, but I think they want to take a look at them and see what the issue was. Regarding the shipping, since it's their fault, ask them to either pay to ship it back, or ask to PayPal you half of the shipping cost.

 

[Warren]

"Lately the focus is primarily stiffness, these things trickle down from road racing"

Actually, as always, the focus is to sell new crap. Nothing they have done, in decades, has had any effect on performance. Only better drugs have had any effect.

 

[skyungjae]

Update, they now say that the motor was programmed wrong but want me to pay to send them back and also pay for 2 x controllers plus delivery.

Not really a fault of mine and in good will they should just send out 2 x correctly programmed controllers and I will destroy the pointless 2 x controllers that I have.

They're pointless to you, but I think they want to take a look at them and see what the issue was. Regarding the shipping, since it's their fault, ask them to either pay to ship it back, or ask to PayPal you half of the shipping cost.

It certainly sucks to have to deal with mistakes made from the suppliers end. Hopefully things work out.

 

[amigafan2003]

Update, they now say that the motor was programmed wrong but want me to pay to send them back and also pay for 2 x controllers plus delivery.

Not really a fault of mine and in good will they should just send out 2 x correctly programmed controllers and I will destroy the pointless 2 x controllers that I have.

At this point, I'd be initiating a chargeback/paypal claim.

 

[speedmd]

"Lately the focus is primarily stiffness, these things trickle down from road racing"

Actually, as always, the focus is to sell new crap. Nothing they have done, in decades, has had any effect on performance.

Stiffness has always been key. Frame designers going back to the early 1900's were claiming in ads "this or that design is stiffer/ more efficient" than the last guys. Major leaps forward have been made this century with the intro of carbon fiber and solid modeling /more commonly used finite element analysis to see where the hot spots are. Claiming new high performance designs do not effect performance is silly. Flies in the face of the facts. Some can not tell what they are riding unless they look down, while many others can tell if the bearings are slightly out of adjustment in some miniscule component on the bike while riding. Just what we see in rider awareness / variation.

they now say that the motor was programmed wrong

I went through this with paypal not long ago, and they required me to return the items and would not charge back until I did so. With the automated system they have I found what seemed to be a great work around for this. Get them to send you the new parts first so you can send every thing that is bad all at one time.

 

[spinningmagnets]

I am now of the opinion that the hot set-up would be to immediately swap-in a Lyen 6-FET with a CycleAnalyst using the temp roll-back feature. Even though a mid-drive gives the motor the use of the gears, the rider must shift the bike to gain the benefit. If the power "feels" like it is pulling good, but the motor is heat-soaking (and is slowly crawling towards a suicide), I'd want a temp read-out and a blinky light to get my attention.

Avigo, If you were in the US, I'd buy it off you just to poke around the fried guts...

 

[Avigo]

At first l thought the controller was fried, l was going to swap it with my spare infineion controller, but this is a worst case scenerio. If l can get it out l will try rewinding it myself. It looks like press fit. Amy from GE has reported it to 8FUN. I will wait for their assessment. The motor does look tiny compared to the hub and no cooling. It was very hot to touch when it was fried.
I was using the gears alot to make sure to keep it efficient. I hope mine is a faulty unit with bad or damaged coating on the wind. My other riding mates orders theirs too and is arriving next week. Kepler is one of them. He likes it fast

 

[neptronix]

It is of course very small, but it spins at a very high RPM compared to a hub.
That is how something like a 5lb. Astro RC motor can produce something to the order of 2-5 kilowatts continuous.

I do believe that you got a dud there. It looks like it just burned in one specific area. When you cook a motor from heat, usually the windings are darkened all over.

 

[Warren]

"Claiming new high performance designs do not effect performance is silly. Flies in the face of the facts."

High performance claims are crap. A quality bike from today will gain you absolutely no time over a quality bike from twenty years ago. The placebo effect is huge. Look at the hour record. Nothing they have done to a standard bike has increased speed. Only by going to non-standard rider positions, and aero-disc wheels have they been able to beat the 49+ kilometer distance since 1972. Anything which actually increases speed is banned from racing, and therefore is of no interest to the cycling public.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/1/1a/Cyclingdevelopmenthourrecord.svg/500px-Cyclingdevelopmenthourrecord.svg.png

I am a lifelong cyclist, and a machinist. I have built bikes from scratch. I worked in bike shops the last 8 years of my working life. But you can spend your money any way you like.

 

[Geebee]

I don't disagree with you warren that most of the main stream new stuff is just promo.
BUT your example is poor at best, the limiting factor in the hour record is aero drag that is why changing position etc. helps.

 

[kocoman]

At first l thought the controller was fried, l was going to swap it with my spare infineion controller, but this is a worst case scenerio. If l can get it out l will try rewinding it myself. It looks like press fit. Amy from GE has reported it to 8FUN. I will wait for their assessment. The motor does look tiny compared to the hub and no cooling. It was very hot to touch when it was fried.
I was using the gears alot to make sure to keep it efficient. I hope mine is a faulty unit with bad or damaged coating on the wind. My other riding mates orders theirs too and is arriving next week. Kepler is one of them. He likes it fast

I thought there is overheat protection?

Has anyone else got damaged motors under normal use? Thx

 

[spinningmagnets]

There is a report that this unit was programmed wrong (maybe, maybe not?), and the overtemp condition is part of the programming. Plus, this unit may have been "unrestricted", which can mean several things to different people.

Also, a single spot looks hot, while the rest of the stator coils look normal, perhaps a short?

To be fair, this was never going to be a product with the quality-control and design awesomeness of a Bosch or Panasonic mid-drive, but...it does cost a lot less, and may perhaps be worth exploring.

 

[Chalz]

This new crank drive looks ripe for liquid cooling. It's already sealed up and sitting lower than the crank bearings. Just drill and tap a low output connection and a high input. Fill with mineral oil, pump and cool with this little computer liquid cooling radiator setup.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181030

Don't you guys think that would do well?

~Chalz