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New Bafang Crank-Drives

DUH! you're right! :oops: No dynamo. I found a thread describing what's needed. Thanks again. This place rocks, you just have to be brave enough to look dumb!

Roller brakes are the easier conversion on my frame, I think.
 
Noob here, but I did read all 80 pages of this thread. I am planning on converting my Giant NRS-1, which I now use for commuting about 16 miles roundtrip to work. Would like advice on 350W vs. 750W. Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain. Other than that, everything is pretty gentle. Not looking for big speed, just wondering how much faster would my commute be with the 750W system. If it is just a few minutes, I would probably stick with the 350W as I would like to keep the bike as rideable as a non-electric as possible, e.g. lighter battery and motor, smaller 46T ring.

I have been looking at this calculator:http://www.electricbikerange.info/Electric_bike_range.html, to try to get an idea of how fast I would go on my commute with 350W vs. 750W. What max speed would you choose in that calculator for both? Is this calculator pretty realistic in terms of estimating how long a trip would take?
 
giantNRS1 said:
Noob here, but I did read all 80 pages of this thread. I am planning on converting my Giant NRS-1, which I now use for commuting about 16 miles roundtrip to work. Would like advice on 350W vs. 750W. Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain. Other than that, everything is pretty gentle. Not looking for big speed, just wondering how much faster would my commute be with the 750W system. If it is just a few minutes, I would probably stick with the 350W as I would like to keep the bike as rideable as a non-electric as possible, e.g. lighter battery and motor, smaller 46T ring.

I have been looking at this calculator:http://www.electricbikerange.info/Electric_bike_range.html, to try to get an idea of how fast I would go on my commute with 350W vs. 750W. What max speed would you choose in that calculator for both? Is this calculator pretty realistic in terms of estimating how long a trip would take?

I have a 750W kit, and when I ride with PAS, I set it to level 3 of 9, which provides up to 11A @ 48V or about 528W of max. assist. I find this sufficient going up my 12% hill. The 36V Kit would provide a similar amount of assist at full power. I don't think You will get a 30 MPH (50 km/h) top speed without pedaling, like you do with the 750Watt kit, though.
 
giantNRS1 said:
Noob here, but I did read all 80 pages of this thread. I am planning on converting my Giant NRS-1, which I now use for commuting about 16 miles roundtrip to work. Would like advice on 350W vs. 750W. Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain. Other than that, everything is pretty gentle. Not looking for big speed, just wondering how much faster would my commute be with the 750W system. If it is just a few minutes, I would probably stick with the 350W as I would like to keep the bike as rideable as a non-electric as possible, e.g. lighter battery and motor, smaller 46T ring.

I have been looking at this calculator:http://www.electricbikerange.info/Electric_bike_range.html, to try to get an idea of how fast I would go on my commute with 350W vs. 750W. What max speed would you choose in that calculator for both? Is this calculator pretty realistic in terms of estimating how long a trip would take?

The biggest question here is your cadence......the 48v (750w) version spins much faster.

36V-350w ~ 82rpm max @ 36V
48v-750w ~ 112rpm max @ 48V

Take the version that will match your cadence.

I'm able to push the 350W Kit to around 49km/h with a lot of pedaling......i dont need it to be faster.
 
ziltoid81 said:
giantNRS1 said:
Noob here, but I did read all 80 pages of this thread. I am planning on converting my Giant NRS-1, which I now use for commuting about 16 miles roundtrip to work. Would like advice on 350W vs. 750W. Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain. Other than that, everything is pretty gentle. Not looking for big speed, just wondering how much faster would my commute be with the 750W system. If it is just a few minutes, I would probably stick with the 350W as I would like to keep the bike as rideable as a non-electric as possible, e.g. lighter battery and motor, smaller 46T ring.

I have been looking at this calculator:http://www.electricbikerange.info/Electric_bike_range.html, to try to get an idea of how fast I would go on my commute with 350W vs. 750W. What max speed would you choose in that calculator for both? Is this calculator pretty realistic in terms of estimating how long a trip would take?

The biggest question here is your cadence......the 48v (750w) version spins much faster.

36V-350w ~ 82rpm max @ 36V
48v-750w ~ 112rpm max @ 48V

Take the version that will match your cadence.

I'm able to push the 350W Kit to around 49km/h with a lot of pedaling......i dont need it to be faster.

If the Cadence is 112rpm @ 48v, then with a 48T chain ring and a 11T cog in the rear, I calculate the bike can hit speeds of 38.3MPH?

[(48/11) x 112 rpm x 60 x 6.91 ft.] / 5280 = 38.3MPH

6.91 ft. is the circumference of a 26x2.3 inch tire. 5280 is ft. per mi and times 60 to get revolutions per hour.

That sounds unbelievably fast.
 
The software is actually easy to use but designed for the BBS01 - don't have one any more to check controller model and revision, may be the same as in the BBS02. I've got an open source version which will be coming soon and will hopefully be simpler to understand.

I've had this for months but had little time between family emergencies to code replacement up, nearly done.

There are tons of parameters you can program but after looking at the controller design I'd say not much more than 30A at 48v nominal lower at higher voltages without beefing it up physically... Heat would also be an issue unless you switch to an external controller.

Far as building a programming harness I had done what a previous poster had done and adapted JST-HX balance taps to provide a programming port for tuning using same software posted above (at first) and just wiring it up myself to a TTL level USB adapter so I will post a few diagrams and photos later as they will clarify things for everyone. By employing CA and an Eagle Tree Logger at voltages up to 55v nominal I was able to tune them to a point where there will be nearly double expected power, streetable advance curve with better performance... only thing I'm worried about is the ring gear that seems to break.

Hope this begins to help clarify :)

Mike
 
mwkeefer said:
The software is actually easy to use but designed for the BBS01 - don't have one any more to check controller model and revision, may be the same as in the BBS02. I've got an open source version which will be coming soon and will hopefully be simpler to understand.

I've had this for months but had little time between family emergencies to code replacement up, nearly done.

There are tons of parameters you can program but after looking at the controller design I'd say not much more than 30A at 48v nominal lower at higher voltages without beefing it up physically... Heat would also be an issue unless you switch to an external controller.

Far as building a programming harness I had done what a previous poster had done and adapted JST-HX balance taps to provide a programming port for tuning using same software posted above (at first) and just wiring it up myself to a TTL level USB adapter so I will post a few diagrams and photos later as they will clarify things for everyone. By employing CA and an Eagle Tree Logger at voltages up to 55v nominal I was able to tune them to a point where there will be nearly double expected power, streetable advance curve with better performance... only thing I'm worried about is the ring gear that seems to break.

Hope this begins to help clarify :)

Mike

Can you clarify - do you connect you TTL lead to the cable going to the display or to the motor (controller)?

I tried to the motor/controller this afternoon and got no response. I tried to the display and it connected but the all values were zero when reading from flash and the firmware/revision info weren't populated either.
 
To the motor controller side of the plug, did you invert tx/ex lines?

-Mike
 
nukezero said:
ziltoid81 said:
giantNRS1 said:
Noob here, but I did read all 80 pages of this thread. I am planning on converting my Giant NRS-1, which I now use for commuting about 16 miles roundtrip to work. Would like advice on 350W vs. 750W. Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain. Other than that, everything is pretty gentle. Not looking for big speed, just wondering how much faster would my commute be with the 750W system. If it is just a few minutes, I would probably stick with the 350W as I would like to keep the bike as rideable as a non-electric as possible, e.g. lighter battery and motor, smaller 46T ring.

I have been looking at this calculator:http://www.electricbikerange.info/Electric_bike_range.html, to try to get an idea of how fast I would go on my commute with 350W vs. 750W. What max speed would you choose in that calculator for both? Is this calculator pretty realistic in terms of estimating how long a trip would take?

The biggest question here is your cadence......the 48v (750w) version spins much faster.

36V-350w ~ 82rpm max @ 36V
48v-750w ~ 112rpm max @ 48V

Take the version that will match your cadence.

I'm able to push the 350W Kit to around 49km/h with a lot of pedaling......i dont need it to be faster.

If the Cadence is 112rpm @ 48v, then with a 48T chain ring and a 11T cog in the rear, I calculate the bike can hit speeds of 38.3MPH?

[(48/11) x 112 rpm x 60 x 6.91 ft.] / 5280 = 38.3MPH

6.91 ft. is the circumference of a 26x2.3 inch tire. 5280 is ft. per mi and times 60 to get revolutions per hour.

That sounds unbelievably fast.

That would be RPM unloaded.
I tested real world, on the flat, ~97 RPM +/- 5% in high gear. 48T Front Gear, 12T Rear gear, 26" Tires - That got me around 30 mph, without pedaling, and pushing around 1200 watts (12S LiPo)
 
nukezero said:
ziltoid81 said:
giantNRS1 said:
Noob here, but I did read all 80 pages of this thread. I am planning on converting my Giant NRS-1, which I now use for commuting about 16 miles roundtrip to work. Would like advice on 350W vs. 750W. Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain. Other than that, everything is pretty gentle. Not looking for big speed, just wondering how much faster would my commute be with the 750W system. If it is just a few minutes, I would probably stick with the 350W as I would like to keep the bike as rideable as a non-electric as possible, e.g. lighter battery and motor, smaller 46T ring.

I have been looking at this calculator:http://www.electricbikerange.info/Electric_bike_range.html, to try to get an idea of how fast I would go on my commute with 350W vs. 750W. What max speed would you choose in that calculator for both? Is this calculator pretty realistic in terms of estimating how long a trip would take?

The biggest question here is your cadence......the 48v (750w) version spins much faster.

36V-350w ~ 82rpm max @ 36V
48v-750w ~ 112rpm max @ 48V

Take the version that will match your cadence.

I'm able to push the 350W Kit to around 49km/h with a lot of pedaling......i dont need it to be faster.

If the Cadence is 112rpm @ 48v, then with a 48T chain ring and a 11T cog in the rear, I calculate the bike can hit speeds of 38.3MPH?

[(48/11) x 112 rpm x 60 x 6.91 ft.] / 5280 = 38.3MPH

6.91 ft. is the circumference of a 26x2.3 inch tire. 5280 is ft. per mi and times 60 to get revolutions per hour.

That sounds unbelievably fast.


Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards the 350W system. I do my commute 1-2 times/week with no assist and so I am used to averaging about 150W of my own power. I am looking to cut back to 100W of my power add some electric power and try to do the commute more regularly and hopefully a little quicker. Anyone else use their setup in a similar way?

I come from a cycling as a sport background; carbon road bike rides with friends on weekends, posting my results to Strava, and a few century or challenge rides a year. I sort of expect to get some crap for going electric from that crowd, but every time I hear about climate change I think I need to do my part so my daughter inherits a planet in the best shape possible. I figure if I convert my commuter, I should be able to ride most days.
 
giantNRS1 said:
Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards the 350W system. I do my commute 1-2 times/week with no assist and so I am used to averaging about 150W of my own power. I am looking to cut back to 100W of my power add some electric power and try to do the commute more regularly and hopefully a little quicker. Anyone else use their setup in a similar way?

I come from a cycling as a sport background; carbon road bike rides with friends on weekends, posting my results to Strava, and a few century or challenge rides a year. I sort of expect to get some crap for going electric from that crowd, but every time I hear about climate change I think I need to do my part so my daughter inherits a planet in the best shape possible. I figure if I convert my commuter, I should be able to ride most days.

Of course you are going to get some crap that you don't deserve. Those same people probably stick their bike into a 4000lbs SUV, drive it to some place to ride recreationally, then stick it back on the car and blow a few more gallons of gasoline to drive back home. But at the same time, you will make your bike useable on days where you are tired, don't want to be sweaty, weather is crappy, you need to get there fast, or you have to go a longer distance than you think your body will take for the day.

Under 1% of the USA commutes by bike, and some of the above reasons are why. We have long distances to go since we are spread out, and weather does not always cooperate. I used to ride 38 miles a day commuting back and forth to work. I didn't know about ebikes at all. I'd get sunburned, and it took an hour both ways. I think that if i knew about ebikes back in the early 2000's, i'd never have even bought a car.

Rock on, and good luck with your first build sir.
 
mwkeefer said:
There are tons of parameters you can program...
It would be interesting if you posted a list of parameters and the message format.
mwkeefer said:
...streetable advance curve with better performance...
I can't see how that would be useful with a mid drive. The purpose of advance is to get higher rpm than than could otherwise be achieved but a mid drive doesn't need this. It is kept in its optimum operating speed range by changing gears.
 
mwkeefer said:
To the motor controller side of the plug, did you invert tx/ex lines?

-Mike

I think I did.

Do you just connect the gnd, tx and rx? I've a vcc on my TTL lead as well.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281281203343?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 
I wonder if anyone has tried to mount their mid-drive alongside a hub-drive motor? :lol: :lol:

I think it would somewhat make sense because the hub-drive can act as the "take-off" motor. The mid-drive can then act as the top-end (max speed) motor. Pair a 12T hub with a 48v 750w (48/11t cog) setup and I think we have a perfect hill climber and street racer. Now, all it would take is a controller to switch over the motors.
 
My Trek has a 38T chainwheel and the BBS01 will have a 46T. My rear hub is a 3 spd Shimano Nexus. Will I have a problem to solve. Like need a Spider? and new gear?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=58781
 
nukezero said:
I wonder if anyone has tried to mount their mid-drive alongside a hub-drive motor? :lol: :lol:

I think it would somewhat make sense because the hub-drive can act as the "take-off" motor. The mid-drive can then act as the top-end (max speed) motor. Pair a 12T hub with a 48v 750w (48/11t cog) setup and I think we have a perfect hill climber and street racer. Now, all it would take is a controller to switch over the motors.

...or just get a Cromotor.
 
nioko said:
tomjasz

Why would you want a dynamo hub, when you already have a battery? get a step down converter, to run the lights (em3ev has one to 12v I guess, but you should be able to find one to 6v easily).
I'd prefer discs over roller brakes, but don't have experience with the rollers...

Grin Cyclery has a light that will run on any voltage.

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/lights.html
 
giantNRS1 said:
Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards the 350W system. I do my commute 1-2 times/week with no assist and so I am used to averaging about 150W of my own power. I am looking to cut back to 100W of my power add some electric power and try to do the commute more regularly and hopefully a little quicker. Anyone else use their setup in a similar way?

I come from a cycling as a sport background; carbon road bike rides with friends on weekends, posting my results to Strava, and a few century or challenge rides a year. I sort of expect to get some crap for going electric from that crowd, but every time I hear about climate change I think I need to do my part so my daughter inherits a planet in the best shape possible. I figure if I convert my commuter, I should be able to ride most days.

Exactly how I use my BBS01 (350/36). When the bike guys give me a hard time, I tell them it's not an electric bike, it's an ultra efficient, two wheeled electric vehicle. It all depends on your point of view.
 
Rusty123 said:
nioko said:
tomjasz

Why would you want a dynamo hub, when you already have a battery? get a step down converter, to run the lights (em3ev has one to 12v I guess, but you should be able to find one to 6v easily).
I'd prefer discs over roller brakes, but don't have experience with the rollers...

Grin Cyclery has a light that will run on any voltage. http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/lights.html

You might also consider the Philips Pedelec-specific, twin-led light available from mail order places like Bike24. It has a wide range of inputs and a specially designed, road traffic-friendly lens and reflector (no glare). I have the dynamo version on a dynamo-bike which is just fantastic.

Savvas.
 
crossbreak said:
*arg* so many posts about programming but no summary.. anyone who want to sum up in a DIFFERENT threat!?! PLEASE!!!

If the GNG thread is no mess, this one definitely is!!
It's an adventure sorting out, but I learned who to get with for a spider. :D
 
neptronix said:
giantNRS1 said:
Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards the 350W system. I do my commute 1-2 times/week with no assist and so I am used to averaging about 150W of my own power. I am looking to cut back to 100W of my power add some electric power and try to do the commute more regularly and hopefully a little quicker. Anyone else use their setup in a similar way?

I come from a cycling as a sport background; carbon road bike rides with friends on weekends, posting my results to Strava, and a few century or challenge rides a year. I sort of expect to get some crap for going electric from that crowd, but every time I hear about climate change I think I need to do my part so my daughter inherits a planet in the best shape possible. I figure if I convert my commuter, I should be able to ride most days.

Of course you are going to get some crap that you don't deserve. Those same people probably stick their bike into a 4000lbs SUV, drive it to some place to ride recreationally, then stick it back on the car and blow a few more gallons of gasoline to drive back home. But at the same time, you will make your bike useable on days where you are tired, don't want to be sweaty, weather is crappy, you need to get there fast, or you have to go a longer distance than you think your body will take for the day.

Under 1% of the USA commutes by bike, and some of the above reasons are why. We have long distances to go since we are spread out, and weather does not always cooperate. I used to ride 38 miles a day commuting back and forth to work. I didn't know about ebikes at all. I'd get sunburned, and it took an hour both ways. I think that if i knew about ebikes back in the early 2000's, i'd never have even bought a car.

Rock on, and good luck with your first build sir.

Spot on post neptronix.

My Lycra buddies still give me a hard time about electrics even though I can out ride most of them on my unassisted road bike. Its so hard to get the point across and to get it to sink in. Some good points for me use on the next round of discussions. :)
 
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