New Bafang Crank-Drives
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
Geebee
1 kW
Rusty just tap one of the brake levers and the motor should stop instantly allowing a quick smooth change.
Samd
10 MW
Tom L said:teslanv said:
I plan to ride up this http://i.imgur.com/WZ4Ztlj.jpg next weekend. Here's the elevation / grade profile http://i.imgur.com/m2gD80r.png.
An average of 10% grade for 8.8km should be a good test.
Would love to hear the outcome Tom! I'm about to build a longtail kid hauler for my wife and 3 small kids. It's a tossup between the 750W or a HT3525 to deal with the local hills/extra load. Any info much appreciated...
wineboyrider
1 MW
Don't know, because I don't have one (seriously jealous though), but it sounds like you are sipping wh's buddy. AKA seriously good wh/miles...woohoo.Rusty123 said:
Rassy
1 MW
Rusty, I think the "gauge" is just a volt meter so unless you use SLA's or a chemistry that has a continuous voltage drop during usage it won't help very much. With LiFePO4 it would then drop off quite quickly at the end.
Carlito, I had some experience with an Auto Shift bike, where weights in the back wheel caused the derailleur to change gears based on the speed. The bike had a freewheel on the crank and a standard cluster with freewheel at the rear hub. What the manufacturer did is simply put a spacer (somewhere, I don't remember exactly where) between the freewheel unit and the hub. You could still force the freewheel to "work", but in use as you slowed down while coasting the front freewheel was the one that "worked" so the cluster and chain kept turning and the bike kept automatically shifting down as the wheels RPM's dropped. I think if you skidded to a stop you would then be caught in whatever gear it was in when you started the skid, but it actually worked pretty good. I actually hated that bike because the up shifts always caught you by surprise while you were pedaling, unlike my NuVinci that is so smooth you can only tell it shifts up if you pay real close attention.
Carlito, I had some experience with an Auto Shift bike, where weights in the back wheel caused the derailleur to change gears based on the speed. The bike had a freewheel on the crank and a standard cluster with freewheel at the rear hub. What the manufacturer did is simply put a spacer (somewhere, I don't remember exactly where) between the freewheel unit and the hub. You could still force the freewheel to "work", but in use as you slowed down while coasting the front freewheel was the one that "worked" so the cluster and chain kept turning and the bike kept automatically shifting down as the wheels RPM's dropped. I think if you skidded to a stop you would then be caught in whatever gear it was in when you started the skid, but it actually worked pretty good. I actually hated that bike because the up shifts always caught you by surprise while you were pedaling, unlike my NuVinci that is so smooth you can only tell it shifts up if you pay real close attention.
teslanv
1 MW
Rusty123 said:
Each bar on the battery indicator is 20%.
On my 20 mile ride yesterday I used up three bars, but my wattsup meter showed 7.78 out of 10 AH consumed, so I would say its only kinda sorta accurate.
I recommend a $25 meter and just wire it in between the battery and motor. It will give you much peace of mind.
Tom L
1 kW
I'm surprised it's that accurate if it is only a voltmeter - and it is only a voltmeter because there is nowhere to tell it what capacity battery is connected (required for an integrating wattmeter). Lead-acid, LiFePo, LiPo, etc... all have different discharge curves and there is no option to set the battery type either. I suspect it's probably calibrated for a generic LiFePo discharge curve, are you using LiFePo?
teslanv
1 MW
My battery is a 12s LiPo with a nominal voltage of 44.4V.
If anything I would say the Meter reads high.
But I also had my low volt cut-off set to 38v so it may just be looking at present V/LVC to determine % full. In my case, I set the LVC too low, which I would guess is the reason it reads high.
If you are using an off-the-shelf 48v battery (13s) with an LVC of 45V I think it may read more accurately.
Lcrewse would be the guy to ask.
If anything I would say the Meter reads high.
But I also had my low volt cut-off set to 38v so it may just be looking at present V/LVC to determine % full. In my case, I set the LVC too low, which I would guess is the reason it reads high.
If you are using an off-the-shelf 48v battery (13s) with an LVC of 45V I think it may read more accurately.
Lcrewse would be the guy to ask.
Tom L
1 kW
I use my wattmeter, http://i.imgur.com/KIYm96r.jpg but my commute is so short (3km) that I have rarely seen below 4 bars. Another thing for me to keep an eye on for my mountain climb this weekend.
As an experiment today I clown cycled all the way home and used the throttle to give maximum "assist" (1030W). I still only used 17Wh/km and the motor didn't cut out in this 30°C heat.
As an experiment today I clown cycled all the way home and used the throttle to give maximum "assist" (1030W). I still only used 17Wh/km and the motor didn't cut out in this 30°C heat.
Tom L said:
I like the wattmeter. It should be much cheaper than a CA.
Of course, it does not calculate Wh/km - right? Does it reset all statistics if you disconnect the power?
What is the top speed you get with throttly use only and 1030W?
Kepler
10 MW
No secret I am very pleased with this drive with it performing beyond expectations in my test bike. Time to step it up a bit and give the drive a nice new platform.
I was planing on going with a DH frame and came very close to pulling the trigger on a 2008 Norco Atomik. However I decided I really didn't need a bike that excelled downhill and sucked uphill so decided to go with an XC dualie frame instead. This what I finally decided on.
View attachment 2
I looked at so many frames and found it really hard to find a nice dual suspension frame that had the clearance to fit the drive in a tucked up position and still be able to fit what ever sized chainring I wanted. This frame has all the clearance I need, reasonable suspension travel, and geometry that suits the type of riding I like to do.
Unfortunately, I won't have time to get this built finished this week but will post up progress pictures as the build comes along.
I was planing on going with a DH frame and came very close to pulling the trigger on a 2008 Norco Atomik. However I decided I really didn't need a bike that excelled downhill and sucked uphill so decided to go with an XC dualie frame instead. This what I finally decided on.
View attachment 2
I looked at so many frames and found it really hard to find a nice dual suspension frame that had the clearance to fit the drive in a tucked up position and still be able to fit what ever sized chainring I wanted. This frame has all the clearance I need, reasonable suspension travel, and geometry that suits the type of riding I like to do.
Unfortunately, I won't have time to get this built finished this week but will post up progress pictures as the build comes along.
Tom L
1 kW
Yeah I have to calculate wh/km myself and yes it does reset when turned off. It also reads about 0.7A when idle as the wires for the remote shunt have a bit of resistance (compared to the 0.001R measuring shunt) and there's no way that I've found to zero it. It's fine for what I use it for though. It's accurate enough for a battery gauge and satisfying my curiosity about the motor's efficiency.madin88 said:I like the wattmeter. It should be much cheaper than a CA.
Of course, it does not calculate Wh/km - right? Does it reset all statistics if you disconnect the power?
Between 45 and 50km/h on the flat (11T top gear).madin88 said:
That's a sweet looking frame!Kepler said:
--freeride--
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2011
- Messages
- 237
@ Kepler: That frame is perfekt. You even got a little offset from the downtube to the bottom bracket, so the motor can swing more up. The pivot of the rear swingarm is also right where the chain is pulling.
What is the headangle? Maybe an Works components Angle-Headset would be a good idea? With the 1.5° Headset in my bike the headangle is around 65° (like a DH bike) that is feeling super stable.
What is the headangle? Maybe an Works components Angle-Headset would be a good idea? With the 1.5° Headset in my bike the headangle is around 65° (like a DH bike) that is feeling super stable.
Kepler
10 MW
Yes, really pleased finding this frame. I believe the head angle is 68deg so the 1.5deg headset might be a good option to slacken it up a bit more. I didnt know they were available. Thanks for the tip.
Rodney64
100 kW
Looks a really nice frame Kepler. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
teslanv
1 MW
Great 10.3 mile commute to work this morning.
PAS set to Level 3 of 9, no throttle used.
138 Watt-Hours
13.4 Watts per mile
Miles per gallon equivalent (MPGe) = 2,488
Cost of Commute: 1.4 cents of electricity.
Still got 306wh of battery left for the ride home tonight.
Shifting has been MUCH improved since greasing the chain, and when riding at 10 mph up the hill this morning, I was actively listening for the motor and could not hear it. All I heard was the crackling of the gravel under my tires and a nearby stream gurgling down the hill.
Loving this bike...
PAS set to Level 3 of 9, no throttle used.
138 Watt-Hours
13.4 Watts per mile
Miles per gallon equivalent (MPGe) = 2,488
Cost of Commute: 1.4 cents of electricity.
Still got 306wh of battery left for the ride home tonight.
Shifting has been MUCH improved since greasing the chain, and when riding at 10 mph up the hill this morning, I was actively listening for the motor and could not hear it. All I heard was the crackling of the gravel under my tires and a nearby stream gurgling down the hill.
Loving this bike...
coachstevo
1 mW
Here's a couple of photos of my Yuba build. Still a bit to go- replace battery bag with a Starboard box (love that stuff), and a French forum obtained 104bcd spider w/ 44 tooth. I love this kit, tames my two 20% grade hills (they're short)- and makes my commute a joy. THe PAS levels are kinda odd- large jump between 1 and 2, but not enough to give me pause.
Attachments
Rusty123
100 W
Tom L said:
I'm using the LiMn battery pack that Lectric Cycles sells. The pack is great, by the way, connects very securely to the bottle bosses, and can be easily removed for remote charging or off bike storage. Very slick.
Anyway, I'm going to order a watt-meter. Rather than using a remote shunt, I'll probably just install it on or near the battery pack.
Edit: after looking at LiMn discharge curves on line, I'm wondering if the OEM voltmeter might be adequate after all. Unlike LiFePO4, there seems to be a close correlation between voltage and state of charge for LiMn. Also, the watt-meters that I've seen on line seem pretty weather sensitive. The CA is weatherproof, but most of the CA functions are unnecessary in this case, since I already have speed and odometer.
I did stumble across the Batt-Man meter (batt-man.com), which seems to have a few features that the CA does not have, such as the ability to program battery capacity, and therefore indicate a true battery "fuel gauge". However, the price is pretty high (nearly as much as the CA), and the documentation is a little sketchy.
Avigo
10 mW
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2013
- Messages
- 20
I use this with great success before l went into CA. This is a great lipo maintenance/charge/discharge/balance system.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20544__HobbyKing_HK_010_Wattmeter_Voltage_Analyzer_AUS_Warehouse_.html
And very economical too only disadvantage you have to loop back all the wires if you want the screen on your handle bar.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20544__HobbyKing_HK_010_Wattmeter_Voltage_Analyzer_AUS_Warehouse_.html
And very economical too only disadvantage you have to loop back all the wires if you want the screen on your handle bar.
Rusty123
100 W
22 miles today (work commute, plus a side trip). At 15 miles, I still had 4 bars, which was making me think that either the readout was malfunctioning, or there was a small nuclear reactor hidden inside. But shortly thereafter, it dropped to 3 bars when climbing hills. By the time I got home, it was dropping to 2 bars during hill climbs.
The 350w version seems ideal for my needs, but I can see where some would appreciate the raw power of the 750w version, particularly if you don't want to pedal much.
The 350w version seems ideal for my needs, but I can see where some would appreciate the raw power of the 750w version, particularly if you don't want to pedal much.
Rusty123
100 W
Avigo said:
How does it handle the weather? Those buttons on the front make me think it would quickly fill with water.
Samd
10 MW
It'd be nice on a group ride to line up Kepler's 750w with your 350W Melbourne and see the difference off the line. Sounds like top speed is similar, just the time taken to get there differs.
The 750W is still scarce, and the 350W does have the small benefit of more compact and accessible 36v batteries for people who don't want the extra grunt I would assume.
Any chance to make it happen sometime? Strava?
The 750W is still scarce, and the 350W does have the small benefit of more compact and accessible 36v batteries for people who don't want the extra grunt I would assume.
Any chance to make it happen sometime? Strava?
Kepler
10 MW
Hi Sam. I think the BBS02 will be faster than the BBS01 by 5 to 10kph. Melbourne and I travel the same route to the city when riding to work. I will shoot him a PM next week and see if we can meet up for back comparative testing.
