New Bafang Crank-Drives

They probably could but the hard part is relaying to them what you actually want them to do. I asked for the speed limiter to be removed on all assist settings on my first order. It didnt happen. If you are in the USA my recommendation is pay the extra and stick with Lecrewse.
 
l run 13S to overcome lvc of 43v. works great..my odo is reading 800 km going great..luv it. l hardly ride my hub drive.

Kepler it would be great if u could order an additional LED. for me. mine is the 1st gen :-(
l miss it by a week.
 
If those displays sell for $60, they really need to make a version without it! Not worth it for a battery meter and speedometer.

I spoke with Amy about an order, but communication was so hit or miss I went with NNE. I don't think she understood half the questions I asked. I would ask three questions and get an answer to one of them, which often led to three more from me because of the confusing response. Oh well.

I still love my kit. Getting better at shifting and using the PAS in combo with the throttle. I'm needing to get to get a lower tooth sprocket kit though. I can't pedal my hills with that large of a front sprocket. I tried to save battery and put it on level 1 assist and was dead in the water. I won't be getting anywhere if the battery goes on me.
 
Riding home tonight, noticed a bit of unusual noise coming from the drive. When I got home, I took the chain off and ran the drive up. Sure enough, the unusual noise continued and sounded worse with the chain off, almost like a grinding noise. Next I checked for play both in the cranks and in the chain ring. there was a little bit of play in the cranks but quite a bit in the chain ring. Not good.

First thing first, removed the cranks and chain guard and checked the bolts holding the chain ring on. All tight. So further investigation required. Removed the drive from the bike and and checked the locking nuts that set the tension on the thrust bearings. These were on the loose side so I tightened these up and re checked. All the play was gone from the cranks but the chain ring still continued to have significant play.

Was getting a bit worried now thinking the worst like perhaps a worn shaft or failed bearing. Removed the main gear cover and thrust locking nuts then extracted the BB shaft. This comes out with the final gear and free wheel assembly. Next I removed the PAS sensor ring which is held in place with a C clip. Finally the culprit was found. The 5 countersunk screws that hold the final gear on to the free wheel assembly were all loose. Excellent, a simple fix after all. Removed the screws and added new loctite then re assembled making sure the screws were torqued down firmly. All play was now gone.

IMG_3145.jpg

Took the opportunity to clean the final gear and re grease. Re assembled the drive and reinstalled on to the bike followed by a quick test run. All fixed and as quiet as the first day I installed the drive. Back to being a happy camper :D
 
Thanks for sharing repair details, Kepler. How many kilometers have you run? Do you think we should disassemble the unit and secure those screws when we first install them?
 
Hey all

Just got my BBS02 kit - in the advanced settings what is the "oft" setting? It has a range from 0 to 60.

Thanks.
 
dbaker said:
Thanks for sharing repair details, Kepler. How many kilometers have you run? Do you think we should disassemble the unit and secure those screws when we first install them?
Click to expand...

I am just coming up to 1000km. I don't think its necessary to disassemble the drive from new. Just keep an eye on the amount of play in the chain ring. There will always be a small about but if it feels excessive, I would suggest these screws then be checked for tightness.

Worth mentioning that dirt and grit does get behind the gear cover so it is worth periodically stipping down the final drive section, cleaning it, and re applying grease. The rest of the drive is well sealed and should not need to be touched.
 
Somebodystopme!! said:
Kepler said:
Very good. Did you order it with any custom programming?

I ordered another 3 units last week from Amy. All with speed limiter removed and LVC set to 40V. Also specified Black 961 displays. So far she has been very good. Hope it stays this way.
Click to expand...

I ordered mine with the limiter removed as well. Didn't know I could order bit with a black face! Ggrrr.. Would've liked that.
Click to expand...

Turns out I did get the black faced controller. Score!
 
Hi Kepler and fellow members,
I was wondering what speeds are you reaching on flats? When ordering are there any specific things to ask for? I read that communication can be a problem with some sellers. I too would like all limiters disconnected etc.

Also, are these sites/sellers all coming from the same place? Seems to be located in Hong Kong. hallomotor.com, gngebike.com etc. :?: :?:

Thanks!
 
spinningmagnets said:
reddit member "anontrol" has reported that he bought two of the BBS02 units direct from China (through Ali-XX?), and has reported that both of them have a defective controller. The bad units are marked "C950 V4.0", though I suspect the version type is not a bad design so much as middle-men are selling factory QA reject units through third parties.

http://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/1xd06b/warning_defective_bbs02_48v_25a_bafang_8fun/
Click to expand...

One of two C961 displays I got with 750W BB-02 kits started showing only "er 30" message ~2 seconds after booting :? , which a rep tells me means "communication problem" (fyi, that error message is not listed in motor or display manuals). Doesn't affect motor performance, but I can't see speed or PAS level since the error message takes over the display screen.

Same rep says C961 is "very reliable". But when I swapped out with my other identical display it worked fine. Ergo the problem is with that first display :!: I'm sending it back for the 8Fun/Bafnag techno-wizards to diagnose. Hopefully a new warranty replacement display will be forthcoming but I'm told C961 has been replaced/upgrade/had pigtail changed rendering my older one obsolete since the new display (& maybe harness) connectors are all different.

I know my <Nov. '13 all-black harness was since upgraded by 8Fun/Bafang to a multi-colored harness. Ergo, if I get a "new" display from Bafang, I'll have to hack into it's pigtail and splice connections to my older all-black display pigtail that does connect to the old all-black harness, or connect the new display to a new version harness and then hack that into the controller inside the motor or splice the new harness to the old all-black harness to keep the same harness/motor pin-out config.

Aaack. The downside of mfg.'s techno-upgrading is that, like trying to get a part for a cell phone - after ~3 months they're "no longer made".

Does anyone know of a Bafang parts supplier for things like C961 displays, speed sensor mounts -my old one broke (also upgraded recently I'm told), or harnesses?

Also, has anyone experienced "surging" when in PAS mode? I have. Applying Throttle seems to take it out. But it's a disconcerting up/down in power when pedaling without throttle. Puts a wrinkle in the PAS experience. Anybody got a fix for that :?:

One tip re: shifting :idea: : In the context of thumb/finger shifter and twist throttle: When cruising in traffic off the line, to upshift, I've learned to give a quick touch to a brake lever (just enough to get the electron message to the motor to pause it), at the same time upshift one click, all the while keeping w.o.t. (wide open throttle). It feels like an 8 speed automatic!

Downshifting on hills while pedaling, I stop throttling and downshift;; then w.o.t. again pronto; with just my continued pedaling the chain climbs onto the bigger gear easily and the motor kicks in just as the shift is completed. These shifting methods mean ~1 second delay in power, but are smooth and easy on the chain and gears.

One last suggestion for all onboard: Since most of the info on this forum is "for the good of the order", please be forthcoming with sources including web addresses, contact info. etc. when relating your new cool 8) must-have accessory items.
Thanks y'all. :D
 
Sounds like you may have been better off sending the whole unit in lol. But all of that asside, how many miles do you reckon you have put on it? Easy on it or hard on it? Would you use this for like a week long tour and feel good about it surviving?
 
lazy_mosquito said:
Hi i forget to introduce myself,

Tried it already but the post dissapeared in the big nowhere called internet.

I am Pieter and converting a bullit cargo bike to an e-bike. At this moment the BBS02 500W or 750W is my engine of choice. Only problem is that i will have to mount it at the bottom of my frame, so ground clearance will be decreased to +/-16 cm. :shock: I will also use a Nuvinci N360 and hope it will coop with the torque of the Bafang. Further i will use Tektron Audigi e-comp hydraulic brakes. They have e-switches which comes in handy for cutting the power when braking.

After reading all this different posts and foras i still have some questions (actually i have more questions then before i started reading
I need some strong batteries because i would like to drive at +/- 20 mph for about 80 miles (thinking about 48V 30ah) i am torn between ncm batteries or a123 20 Ah pouches. Suggestions? (i will not use lipo's although they are great, they also make great fireworks and i have to charge them unattended)
Anybody knows an alternative for the Bafang (but need the same stealth, pricerange, middrive)
I have found some posts where people are referring to bafang BBS01 with external controllers, but i can't find any thread or post which explains how to use an external controller with the bafang: if somebody knows a link or knows somebody who has already made this mod, please give me a hyperlink

thanks in advance,

Pieter
Click to expand...

Hello Pieter. Welcome aboard :D and thanks for the intro. Cargo e-bikes are the cutting edge of the green revolution :!:

For what it's worth, after 1000+km experience with Bafang 750W BB-02 I'd recommend them hands-down. Smooth, quiet, powerful, reliable. No need to re-invent the wheel with external controller. Just be sure to get yours programmed with speed limit = unlimited; capable of throttle only use and that the l.v.c. (low voltage cut-out) is set to your particular battery chemistry (different voltage ranges between li-ion and LiFePO4). The Bafang lvc is a nice feature built into the controller that helps remove part of the necessity of having a b.m.s. (battery management system), although, with no bms beware of over-charging - death to batteries.

Re: batteries I'd recommend 48V Headway LiFePO4 packs - or you can order the cells, series connector buses, 2-cell holders (connect together nicely) and put your own pack(s) together sans bms. Then have your plastic guy that makes business card holders build you a cool see-through boxes to show off the cool 8) blue cells in their cool orange holders.

I get excellent range with 12Ah. Probably 40km/30 miles, full range yet to be determined. 80 miles is a long run without re-charging. Mebe consider taking a coffee/lunch/re-charge/smell the flowers break mid-trip? I always carry my charger with me and do opportunistic charging wherever time and opportunity allows. BTW, you'll get more cycles/longer life out of your batteries if you run them between 20 and 80% of charge like Chevy Volt does. And I was advised to charge LiFePO4 at max. 3C rate (total Ah x .3) for max cell life. I'm looking into onboard flex solar panel charging. It would be very green to get electrons directly from old Sol. :idea: Anybody out there got a line on that idea :?:

Add a CA (Cycle Analyst from Justin / ebikes.ca and maybe a couple of Cellog 8s meters (bar graph of voltage of each of 8 cells in series in a meter ~ size of a match-box - from Junsi / ProgressiveRC.com) and you'll have all the techno info you could ever want about what's going on under the hood.

Also consider getting a 1010+ iCharger also from Progressive RC, which can balance your cells while charging. One balance charge to my new cells (in 8s2p config.) and I haven't had to balance charge them again :!: With similar cells before I (and many others) found Headway's (Signallab's etc.) bms not up to the task of balancing the packs. This was in the course of 3,00 miles of Direct Hub (D.H.) experience.

You can recycle an old computer power supply (~$7 v. ~$200+ for a dedicated snazzy power supply) to power the iCharger (just bring all yellow wires together - that's +; and all black wires together - that's (-); short the 2 lines that go to the computer on/off switch and add an on/off switch of your own if you want (watch the tutorials on Youtube).

Good luck. By the way, I heard that Edgerunner cargo bikes are adopting the 750W Bafang to their line. That's saying something about the motor.

Dr. John
Skype: john.hurd
 
Somebodystopme!! said:
Somebodystopme!! said:
Kepler said:
Very good. Did you order it with any custom programming?

I ordered another 3 units last week from Amy. All with speed limiter removed and LVC set to 40V. Also specified Black 961 displays. So far she has been very good. Hope it stays this way.
Click to expand...

I ordered mine with the limiter removed as well. Didn't know I could order bit with a black face! Ggrrr.. Would've liked that.
Click to expand...

Turns out I did get the black faced controller. Score!
Click to expand...

Got everything installed in short order. What an easy kit to install.

I have to listen hard to hear the motor so I'm very happy with that.

Smooth and quiet. Unlimited speed is programmed in.

I wired in my half throttle instead of the supplied thumb throttle.

It seems like I can only get 100% throttle when I'm on the highest PAS level though. I wish I could set the pass to zero and have throttle capacity.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
CellBalance said:
spinningmagnets said:
reddit member "anontrol" has reported that he bought two of the BBS02 units direct from China (through Ali-XX?), and has reported that both of them have a defective controller. The bad units are marked "C950 V4.0", though I suspect the version type is not a bad design so much as middle-men are selling factory QA reject units through third parties.

http://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/1xd06b/warning_defective_bbs02_48v_25a_bafang_8fun/
Click to expand...

One of two C961 displays I got with 750W BB-02 kits started showing only "er 30" message ~2 seconds after booting :? , which a rep tells me means "communication problem" (fyi, that error message is not listed in motor or display manuals). Doesn't affect motor performance, but I can't see speed or PAS level since the error message takes over the display screen.

Same rep says C961 is "very reliable". But when I swapped out with my other identical display it worked fine. Ergo the problem is with that first display :!: I'm sending it back for the 8Fun/Bafnag techno-wizards to diagnose. Hopefully a new warranty replacement display will be forthcoming but I'm told C961 has been replaced/upgrade/had pigtail changed rendering my older one obsolete since the new display (& maybe harness) connectors are all different.

I know my <Nov. '13 all-black harness was since upgraded by 8Fun/Bafang to a multi-colored harness. Ergo, if I get a "new" display from Bafang, I'll have to hack into it's pigtail and splice connections to my older all-black display pigtail that does connect to the old all-black harness, or connect the new display to a new version harness and then hack that into the controller inside the motor or splice the new harness to the old all-black harness to keep the same harness/motor pin-out config.

Aaack. The downside of mfg.'s techno-upgrading is that, like trying to get a part for a cell phone - after ~3 months they're "no longer made".

Does anyone know of a Bafang parts supplier for things like C961 displays, speed sensor mounts -my old one broke (also upgraded recently I'm told), or harnesses?

Also, has anyone experienced "surging" when in PAS mode? I have. Applying Throttle seems to take it out. But it's a disconcerting up/down in power when pedaling without throttle. Puts a wrinkle in the PAS experience. Anybody got a fix for that :?:

One tip re: shifting :idea: : In the context of thumb/finger shifter and twist throttle: When cruising in traffic off the line, to upshift, I've learned to give a quick touch to a brake lever (just enough to get the electron message to the motor to pause it), at the same time upshift one click, all the while keeping w.o.t. (wide open throttle). It feels like an 8 speed automatic!

Downshifting on hills while pedaling, I stop throttling and downshift;; then w.o.t. again pronto; with just my continued pedaling the chain climbs onto the bigger gear easily and the motor kicks in just as the shift is completed. These shifting methods mean ~1 second delay in power, but are smooth and easy on the chain and gears.

One last suggestion for all onboard: Since most of the info on this forum is "for the good of the order", please be forthcoming with sources including web addresses, contact info. etc. when relating your new cool 8) must-have accessory items.
Thanks y'all. :D
Click to expand...

http://www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-8fun-motor-bbs-01-lcd-display.html
 
Looking online for software to do custom programming on the C961 interface.

Can anyone confirm this?

"The display comes from king meter and the controller of the company Nanjing Lishui Electronics vo. it provides all the controllers for King meters / Bafang her.du"


King Meters (software downloads :mrgreen: ) http://www.king-meter.com/products.php?action=list

Nanjing Lishui http://www.lsdzs.com/e/
 
It looks like the BBS01 C963 display is interchangeable with the KM5S king meter, from what I'm reading on a German ebike forum. Google translate is a little funky sometimes though.

Pedelec-forum
 
I think this has been covered before but does anyone know what this symbol stands for on the C961 BBS02 display? it doesn't seem to have a purpose?.?.?.
image.png
 
Went out for a ride again today. The gears were making a bit different noise, but I was testing out assist level 8 of 9 so I kept riding. Turned a corner and my rear derailleur burst apart. I don't know what happened or how. Probably should have checked everything a bit better. I know the LBS thinks I'm already crazy, so I don't think they will be too surprised by this one.
 
Kepler said:
Been working on a little design project that has the potential to enhance the BBS drive offering. Ideas are still in the concept and modeling stage but I thought I would throw it out there to gauge interest.

So the idea is to attach an integrated battery compartment that attaches to the drive and frame in such a way that it gives the install an overall OEM look. The idea also is for the battery compartment to clamp to the sides of the drive and act as extended heat sink and as such reduce the chance of burning out the motor under prolonged high load conditions.

At this stage the compartment is designed around 4 x 6S 5.8ah Zippy compact LiPo's but no doubt, there would be plenty of battery options that would fit inside the battery compartment.

So this is the concept.

View attachment 1

This battery position isn't going to suit every type of bike but it will suit many bikes bikes out there especially bikes with slacker head angles.

This render is just to show how the battery compartment would integrate with the frame.



Biggest problem with this type of project is the cost to produce them in low quantities. Taking into account low volume laser cutting, CNC folding, Aluminium TIG welding and custom machining of mounting hardware, cost do add up very quickly.

Anyway, I am pushing forward and should have a prototype ready in a few weeks.
Click to expand...

it is any progress on this? :?:
 
Chalz said:
Flying Cubic,
Yes the bike caught on fire while charging. The charger was purchased through BMS battery. I was balancing them, then bulk charging. Here are some pics of what the bike looked like and damage. I'm happy to save someone else that hassle I went through.
Click to expand...

So...how do I stop something like this from happening on my build? Will the pre-built batteries like this (http://lectriccycles.com/products/48v-downtube-mounted-battery) be safer, or do you still need to charge in something fireproof?
 
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