New Bafang Crank-Drives

[Aushiker]

They are. I was worried because Aushiker has the same brake and don't rely on stock BBS levers.

The host bike for the conversion is already configured with Avid Speed Dial 7 brake levers and as I was not interested in ditching these for lower quality levers I ordered my kit without brake levers, getting instead the HWBS.

Andrew

 

[gedong]

The standard brake switch is a hall sensor (3 wire) so it sounds like they should be compatible. Just may need a connector change.

Is it possible to use the HWBS with the shifter cable for those of us with hydros? Or am I best off fitting a hall sensor to the hydraulic lever as illustrated in earlier posts? Thanks.

i don't think it will works, my guess is HBWS using sensor to detect inner wire movement.

for hydrolic brake sensor, and also as an alternative for those who don't want to change their exotic lever , this is what they need, i guess this is only modified hall sensor and magnet for easier installation. if only they made the magnet bigger so we can just glued the ring to the lever.

fyi, they don't required +5V and should be compatible for most of ebike controller on the market.

 

[joshseitz]

i don't think it will works, my guess is HBWS using sensor to detect inner wire movement.

for hydrolic brake sensor, and also as an alternative for those who don't want to change their exotic lever , this is what they need, i guess this is only modified hall sensor and magnet for easier installation. if only they made the magnet bigger so we can just glued the ring to the lever.
Image
fyi, they don't required +5V and should be compatible for most of ebike controller on the market.

Where did you purchase that hall sensor?

And is there anything preventing one from gluing a slightly larger disc-shaped magnet onto the lever in place of the ring?

 

[mushymelon]

And is there anything preventing one from gluing a slightly larger disc-shaped magnet onto the lever in place of the ring?

Any magnet should work you may need to adjust placement depending on how strong it is.


I wonder if these are plug and play for the bafangs.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/MOTORLIFE-NEW-product-electric-bike-hydraulic_1545223765.html

 

[samsavvas]

Where did you purchase that hall sensor?

And is there anything preventing one from gluing a slightly larger disc-shaped magnet onto the lever in place of the ring?

That's not a Hall Sensor device. It's just a 2-wire magnetic switch - probably just an encapsulated mercury or similar switch like you'd buy anyway locally or on the net for a window or door alarm. You can see the evidence further down the page at the Chinese supplier site.

DX has a heap of small magnets that I've used to make such brake switches, many in a convenient (for gluing) disk shape.

The connectors look tantalisingly like the ones on the BBS don't they. The problem is that they (or the connected cables anyway) are 2 wire while the Bafang BBS makes use of a 3 wire set up. I'm not sure if they could be made to work...

Edit: A bit of web crawling reveals that a company called 'MotorLife' makes e-bike bits that look very Bafang-like, especially with regard to Bafang's waterproof connectors. Perhaps they make them for Bafang..? Anyway, they also appear to be manufacturers of the HWBS that many suppliers are selling.

See: http://motorlife.en.alibaba.com/pro...ORLIFE_electric_bicycle_kit_brake_sensor.html
&
http://www.motorlifetech.com

Motorlife appear to be supplying these sensors with connectors - just not the ones that the BBS uses. See: http://www.itronix.be/d/en/node/9
As I think Aushiker has already indicated they can be had - via special order from em3ev - with the Bafang/BBS connector. That's what I hope that Paul is putting together for me right now.

Savvas.



Savvas.

 

[Tom L]

It's not a mercury switch it's a magnetic reed switch

 

[amigafan2003]

The sensors that come with the stock brake levers are easy enough to disassemble and rig up for use with hydraulics - the end is just a 3 pin hall sensor and you can use a simple neodymium magnet to trigger it - this is my install on a set of Deore M595's - I put some heat shrink on it to waterproof/protect it - only used on the rear brake.

I'm going to use the other sensor to cut power when shifting.

 

[Tom L]

Here's how I did mine http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=836334#p836334

 

[samsavvas]

The sensors that come with the stock brake levers are easy enough to disassemble and rig up for use with hydraulics - the end is just a 3 pin hall sensor and you can use a simple neodymium magnet to trigger it - this is my install on a set of Deore M595's - I put some heat shrink on it to waterproof/protect it - only used on the rear brake.

I'm going to use the other sensor to cut power when shifting.

This is interesting amigafan - is this just a 'proximity' set up similar to how you'd use a mercury switch/magnet on a 2-wire system?

Savvas.

 

[jateureka]

Two wire brake switch should work if connected from signal line to gound, as most e-brakes use active low.

 

[samsavvas]

And is there anything preventing one from gluing a slightly larger disc-shaped magnet onto the lever in place of the ring?

Any magnet should work you may need to adjust placement depending on how strong it is. I wonder if these are plug and play for the bafangs.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/MOTORLIFE-NEW-product-electric-bike-hydraulic_1545223765.html

So if, as it seems, both the (3 wire) Hall effect device currently used by the BBS and the simpler (2 wire) mercury proximity switch do the same thing - that is, simply switch from 'normally closed' to 'open' to shut the controller and motor down - AND if the red plugs in the example above fit the BBS leads and yellow female connectors, then these 2-wire cables might indeed work for those with hydraulic brakes (or who want to set up gear-change switches such as Keplers).

Has anybody found a retail source?

Savvas.

 

[jateureka]

Hmm, seems there is a little confusion about e-brake switches, so instead of cluttering up this thread, please have a look at this thread on e-brakes and some of the other threads I linked in my post there...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=52079

 

[xpc]

Hi guys, just have a question about prices being paid from china.
Is everyone paying full asking price from Chinese vendors, or do you barter for a better price?
The reason I ask, is that I'm fairly sure that the domestic market is paying a lot less that what is being asked.

 

[tomjasz]

I'm fairly sure that the domestic market is paying a lot less that what is being asked.

That is a world wide phenomenon on thousands of products, I wish it were possible to dicker but suspect it's a TSS. (Tough Shit Sherlock) I'm not sure those willing to accept offers would be the sorts we'd be happy with. At least that's my 45+ years of buying experience.

 

[speedpower99]

No. even in China bafang is expensive.
Just a quick check one taobao online bbs02 cost cn$3000 = US$480

For that amount money you can buy a whole ebike with SLA or cheap li-ion battery in China. The crank drive system is mainly for overseas.

 

[Hasaf]

Hi guys, just have a question about prices being paid from china.
Is everyone paying full asking price from Chinese vendors, or do you barter for a better price?
The reason I ask, is that I'm fairly sure that the domestic market is paying a lot less that what is being asked.

You would be surprised, I live in China and in my experience the prices are generally a bit higher in China than outside of China. I have even gone so far as to have family purchase "made in China" stuff and mail it back to me.

There definitely are very few "great deals." Yes, there is a lot of very low quality stuff; but, for a similar level of quality, prices are higher in China.

 

[droner]

I have a Motobecane 29er with a Bafang 750 mid drive, with Cellman's 25AH triangle pack and I love it. It's a new class of vehicle rather than just a motor on my bike. I have a SRAM XO 10 speed cassette.

I would like to have two opposing qualities in the gearing. For one, I'd like to have more hill climbing ability with a lower ratio. And, at the same time
I want to have the same top end I have now with my 48t chain ring and 32t cassette.

I came across an ad for a OneUp Components 40 0r 42 tooth sprocket that they say will work with my 10 speed cassette. In theory this should give me a much lower gear for climbing and the high gear I have currently.

Does anyone have experience with oversize sprocket rings on an electric bike? Will it take the stress?

Any better suggestions? I've tried a 38 t chainring with a 4 bolt 104 bcd adapter and the cadence increase was too limiting for speeds over about 20 mph. My other alternative is to go to, say, a 42t chainring, but that still robs from the top end.

thanks!

 

[m4s73r]

Have you considered a duel drive hub

 

[shanman3us]

Hi guys, just have a question about prices being paid from china.
Is everyone paying full asking price from Chinese vendors, or do you barter for a better price?
The reason I ask, is that I'm fairly sure that the domestic market is paying a lot less that what is being asked.

You would be surprised, I live in China and in my experience the prices are generally a bit higher in China than outside of China. I have even gone so far as to have family purchase "made in China" stuff and mail it back to me.

There definitely are very few "great deals." Yes, there is a lot of very low quality stuff; but, for a similar level of quality, prices are higher in China.

This isn't unique to China either. I lived in South Korea for quite some time and you paid more money for Samsung and LG products right there where they are made then to purchase them in North America. As a matter of fact there were even many items being made in South Korea that you couldn't even find to purchase yet they were readily available for a good price in North America.

Shanman3us

 

[Kepler]

I have a Motobecane 29er with a Bafang 750 mid drive, with Cellman's 25AH triangle pack and I love it. It's a new class of vehicle rather than just a motor on my bike. I have a SRAM XO 10 speed cassette.

I would like to have two opposing qualities in the gearing. For one, I'd like to have more hill climbing ability with a lower ratio. And, at the same time
I want to have the same top end I have now with my 48t chain ring and 32t cassette.

I came across an ad for a OneUp Components 40 0r 42 tooth sprocket that they say will work with my 10 speed cassette. In theory this should give me a much lower gear for climbing and the high gear I have currently.

Does anyone have experience with oversize sprocket rings on an electric bike? Will it take the stress?

Any better suggestions? I've tried a 38 t chainring with a 4 bolt 104 bcd adapter and the cadence increase was too limiting for speeds over about 20 mph. My other alternative is to go to, say, a 42t chainring, but that still robs from the top end.

thanks!

I have a 29er also and use a 44 tooth chain ring and 11-34 cluster. With 2.25" tires, 50kph (31mph) is the top usable speed that I can still pedal at. The 34 tooth on the cluster is me great slow speed climbing ability too.

 

[teslanv]

My set-up is a 48T on the front and 11-32T on the rear, 26" Wheels with a BBS02-750W. I can pedal along with the motor up to about 38mph. And my 12% grade is a piece of cake on the 32T rear sprocket.

 

[Ken Taylor]

I came across an ad for a OneUp Components 40 0r 42 tooth sprocket that they say will work with my 10 speed cassette. In theory this should give me a much lower gear for climbing and the high gear I have currently.

Does anyone have experience with oversize sprocket rings on an electric bike? Will it take the stress?

I've have had to change dérailleurs when I've added big rear sprockets. The biggest I use is 34. The biggest shimano dérailleur I could find specified a maximum 32 sprocket. It seems OK on 34 but it couldn't go any bigger as the idler is almost touching the sprocket. I don't expect the larger sprocket would fail but I've been wondering if the narrow chains required for 10 speeds would hold up with 750W motors. Narrow chains break quite often without a motor. You see it in professional bicycle racing sometimes, where you'd expect them to be trying hard to avoid such failures.

 

[dirkdiggler]

Droner,
Why don't you just use a front derailleur with the 32 and 46 tooth? I was going to do that with a 24 and 36 tooth, but ended up satisfied with the 36 tooth. Get yourself a square taper crankset and remove the smallest sprocket and cranks. You can use the newer cranks if you round off the right side cranks so when it spins it won't catch anything. Or just use the BBS cranks. Should be easy enough if that is really want you want out of the kit. You will need the spacers or buy some to get the spacing correct.

 

[droner]

I came across an ad for a OneUp Components 40 0r 42 tooth sprocket that they say will work with my 10 speed cassette. In theory this should give me a much lower gear for climbing and the high gear I have currently.

Does anyone have experience with oversize sprocket rings on an electric bike? Will it take the stress?

I've have had to change dérailleurs when I've added big rear sprockets. The biggest I use is 34. The biggest shimano dérailleur I could find specified a maximum 32 sprocket. It seems OK on 34 but it couldn't go any bigger as the idler is almost touching the sprocket. I don't expect the larger sprocket would fail but I've been wondering if the narrow chains required for 10 speeds would hold up with 750W motors. Narrow chains break quite often without a motor. You see it in professional bicycle racing sometimes, where you'd expect them to be trying hard to avoid such failures.

I'm hoping the 10 speed chain holds up. I've only got 220 miles on it so far. Temporarily I'm trying a 38t chain ring in lieu of the standard 48t, with a 10 speed 12-36 on the back and even though the cadence is crazy high which limits top PAS speed to about 24 mph or so, it seems the motor is working in a much better range of RPM. But I want to also go fast like Teslanv! I just read about Sram dual drives at a M4S73R's suggestion. That makes for an intriguingly huge range. I think maybe a 42 chainring might be a good compromise, staying with the cassette I have now. But I'm enjoying experimenting and am having a blast on the bike. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

 

[droner]

Droner,
Why don't you just use a front derailleur with the 32 and 46 tooth? I was going to do that with a 24 and 36 tooth, but ended up satisfied with the 36 tooth. Get yourself a square taper crankset and remove the smallest sprocket and cranks. You can use the newer cranks if you round off the right side cranks so when it spins it won't catch anything. Or just use the BBS cranks. Should be easy enough if that is really want you want out of the kit. You will need the spacers or buy some to get the spacing correct.

I wasn't aware that anyone was using a front derailleur with a Bafang mid drive.