New Bafang Crank-Drives

[geofft]

My question is about the jerky / stuttering / putt putt / at low speed. is this normal? is there a way to minimise it? or just suck it up and get used to it.

Yes, mine also had this annoying pulsing effect on PAS when I first tried it, I've now played around with the programming and seem to have pretty much eliminated it.

TBH I'm not sure which pas setting did the trick, I'm still on bit of a learning curve with it all but if you get into the programming sometime I can let you have my pas settings to see if it helps?

Geoff.

 

[tahustvedt]

hi all, I just installed one of the 750W units. it's only programmed with 3 PAS settings, I literrally just a a 2 minute ride on it testing PAS 1 2 and 3. Setting 3 is definitely the most powerful 1 is the least. My question is about the jerky / stuttering / putt putt / at low speed. is this normal? is there a way to minimise it? or just suck it up and get used to it. I've never had PAS before so it will take some getting used to regarding power output and pedal speed etc.

Thanks
Andy

Sounds like you're starting in a way too high gear.

 

[Electric Junk]

At low speeds i feel like my cranks wobble, but everything smooths out when i go faster.

 

[Kepler]

Cranks shouldn't wobble at low speed. Something is loose.

 

[Animalector]

As suggested I think it's just stating in a high gear and lack of input from the crank sensors
I'll test more later when I get a shifter
Thanks
Andy

 

[dumbass]

Andy, As Kepler said, "your cranks shouldn't wobble". Let me add, not in any gear! Some people start in high gear as a norm but they have not reported their cranks having a wobble. I've started in high gear more then once by accident and never felt my cranks wobble. I'd be checking to be sure everything is tight.

Bob

 

[Animalector]

my cranks don't wobble.. starting in high gear at low speed is the only test i have done and the motor stutters until I get going at a reasonable speed cadence. I'm not worried yet. I'll test further when I can change gears properly.

Thanks

Andy

 

[Samd]

It was someone else with wobbly cranks, not Andy.

 

[tomjasz]

Some days there's just no making sense or logic out of ES threads...

 

[joshseitz]

Quick question:

My drive is due to arrive Friday from Paul.I already have the Bike Hand YC-29BB-2A https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...jmA8Z36E2ZKmbqqSDdRZYpfg&ust=1409717912165904

I also have a Park BB tool like this: http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...787&hl=en&msid=kazMgc9b_dc|pcrid|55502655880|

Will I also need a lockring tool like this: http://www.jensonusa.com/!9SBanTEQu...dium=organic&gclid=CNbwkfPWwcACFUJqfgod0gwAKA

 

[arcticfly]

How are this kit to pedal if you run out of battery?

 

[Animalector]

The park bb tool won't fit. You need an open ended version. The kick ring took is good. The Socket style one that I bought didn't fit

Regarding pedaling. I haven't gone far yet. But it feels much easier to pedal to me than the hub motor I had. Actually side from additional weight I didn't notice any additional drag on the bike. This is from a 2 min ride outside my house. Others can confirm

 

[Shorty]

Hardly noticeable pedalling with it turned off compared to standard setup.
I'll be doing a bit for a while as the charger "just let the smoke out" on its second use!!! so no way to charger the battery now.
Have emailed Paul so just have to wait until it is replaced.

 

[neptronix]

I've bought a much better one from Lectric cycles which is much smoother and progressive in operation which also seems to minimise the initial lag.

I think the lag is also a programming issue. Hopefully I'll get the two programming schemes, Lectric and EM3ev, compared this week and make changes to confirm. The EM3ev has little or no lag. It's on my backup bike and it startles me every time I use it. The action is very different. I have a Lectric throttle to go on the EM#ev bike bike haven;'t done so yet. It's a no lag with the shot throw EM3ev throttle too.

Haha, go figure Paul to program it that way. When i bought a 8T MAC kit from him in 2011, the 9FET controller was tuned to 42A and the thing was damn quick. I eventually tuned down the amps because they were too much on super steep hills ( you know, typical overpowered hub motor heating issues on long grades and such. )

I'm glad he's continued to carry the torch with his tunes. I have a BBS02 coming from him in a day or two.

On the note of extracting maximum power out of things... who's ran higher voltages or an external controller on this thing already? please tell me i won't be the first.

 

[arcticfly]

I will try one of this kits, as I ned some exercise, and the 10KW Bomber do not work as a training machine . As I am a power junkie I feel 750W is pretty much as useful as no motor at all, but it seems everybody like this kit (exept all those with problems), so I´ll give it a try. What is the max voltage this controller can handle if I´m building a battery my self?

 

[tomjasz]

I've bought a much better one from Lectric cycles which is much smoother and progressive in operation which also seems to minimise the initial lag.

I think the lag is also a programming issue. Hopefully I'll get the two programming schemes, Lectric and EM3ev, compared this week and make changes to confirm. The EM3ev has little or no lag. It's on my backup bike and it startles me every time I use it. The action is very different. I have a Lectric throttle to go on the EM#ev bike bike haven;'t done so yet. It's a no lag with the shot throw EM3ev throttle too.

Haha, go figure Paul to program it that way. When i bought a 8T MAC kit from him in 2011, the 9FET controller was tuned to 42A and the thing was damn quick. I eventually tuned down the amps because they were too much on super steep hills ( you know, typical overpowered hub motor heating issues on long grades and such. )

I'm glad he's continued to carry the torch with his tunes. I have a BBS02 coming from him in a day or two.

On the note of extracting maximum power out of things... who's ran higher voltages or an external controller on this thing already? please tell me i won't be the first.

Just finished charging and testing. The EM3ev bike runs 5MPH/8KPH faster on the rack, and translates to 2.5-3MPH/4-4.8KPH on the street. I need to get Windoze on my Mac VM. Damn life chores keep taking time from playing bicycle. 20-23MPH on a BBS01 makes me smile.

 

[teslanv]

I will try one of this kits, as I ned some exercise, and the 10KW Bomber do not work as a training machine . As I am a power junkie I feel 750W is pretty much as useful as no motor at all, but it seems everybody like this kit (exept all those with problems), so I´ll give it a try. What is the max voltage this controller can handle if I´m building a battery my self?

Don't go over 14 or 15 cells LiPo/LiCo. Caps are 63V, and HVC is ~61V - 14S you can charge to 4.2V/cell. 15S, you have to limit charge to 4.05V/cell.
I run mine at 12S LiPo, and it works well at that Voltage.
750W in a Mid Drive is quite a bit of power, actually, and you will notice it most on steep inclines.

 

[mclark999]

I tried both methods using this switch. Both worked but the throttle interrupt is the superior setup. It what I use now. Great for single track work when you need to go up and down the gear constantly and you don't want to loose momentum.

Could you tell me how to wire this without actually having the throttle handle installed? I only use pas, but want the quick response of the throttle interrupt instead of the brake interrupt for shifting. Could I just wire one of the brake levers to the throttle input?

 

[lazy_mosquito]

About the so called wobble some of you feel, i feel the same when i start the bike in a high gear. It is not really the shaft wobbling, but the engine which is pulsing, because it is not turning fast enough i guess, the moment the motor revs up the pulsing disappears completely.

About the pedalling: i had the engine installed but could the battery only place four days later, but i needed the bike so i drove 4 days without the battery. There is a clear difference, you feel some drag, but it was perfect possible to drive the bike. It felt like driving with a light headwind.

 

[shanman3us]

I tried both methods using this switch. Both worked but the throttle interrupt is the superior setup. It what I use now. Great for single track work when you need to go up and down the gear constantly and you don't want to loose momentum.

Could you tell me how to wire this without actually having the throttle handle installed? I only use pas, but want the quick response of the throttle interrupt instead of the brake interrupt for shifting. Could I just wire one of the brake levers to the throttle input?

This should work for you (credits to Kepler):

http://goo.gl/XY43CN

Regards, Shanman3us

 

[rscamp]

About the so called wobble some of you feel, i feel the same when i start the bike in a high gear. It is not really the shaft wobbling, but the engine which is pulsing, because it is not turning fast enough i guess, the moment the motor revs up the pulsing disappears completely...

Is there any feedback control for power limiting? Some instability in this loop could cause oscillation.

 

[tahustvedt]

The pulsing motor "issue" is not a problem. It's pointless to try to find a way to get the motor to operate without stuttering when the controller is asked to spin at too low rpm to commutate efficiently anyway. Just put the bike in a gear that isn't incredibly heavy and it doesn't happen.

 

[0utrider]

How are this kit to pedal if you run out of battery?

Yes, hardly noticeable and easy to pedal.

 

[cycborg]

How are this kit to pedal if you run out of battery?

Yes, hardly noticeable and easy to pedal.

Yes, the motor drag isn't particularly noticeable. But you're stuck with a 48t chainring, and you're carrying 20+ lb of motor and battery, so be sure to get the hills out of the way before the battery runs out!

 

[0utrider]

How are this kit to pedal if you run out of battery?

Yes, hardly noticeable and easy to pedal.

Yes, the motor drag isn't particularly noticeable. But you're stuck with a 48t chainring, and you're carrying 20+ lb of motor and battery, so be sure to get the hills out of the way before the battery runs out!

And here I was regretting I had a 46t ring up front! Ha ha... I have an 11 tooth gear in the back for top pedaling matching at speed but I'm certain that I will lament not having a 34t in the back to shift down to as a low gear for the occasional pedestrian ramp and hilly terrain. I think I need to search for an 11 - 34 8sp cassette.