New Bafang Crank-Drives

[dbIsMe]

Thanks Guys .....I think I will go with the Shimano M640 Zee Rear Derailleur..It sounds specific to my application,,I assume it would be ok to use with a SRAM 10 speed shifter.???..http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-zee-m640-shadow-10-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod82431

This is way off topic for Bafang drives, but in general you shouldn't mix SRAM and shimano shifters - at least on mountain bike components. Road I have NFI. The pull on the MTB shifters is different between SRAM and Shimano. And things have become more complicated of late. You would generally be better off with a shimano shifter for the Zee.

Having said that, there are some that are having success with what is referred to as SRAMano - SRAM shifters with Shimano clutched derailleurs. Some links: pinkbike, rotorburn, singletrack. Unless you enjoy tuning derailleurs and already have a SRAM shifter you want to use, I would be going for a Shimano shifter.

I actually have a nice SRAM X-9 shifter and like fiddling, so I've got a Zee 36 showing up shortly to see if it works. Clutched goodness for cheap. I hope!

 

[astmacca]

Thanks for all the links and replies on the cutoff switches for hydraulic levers people!

2. I purchased two "universal brake sensors" from Lectric Cycles so that I could retain use of my hydraulic levers http://lectriccycles.com/products/universal-brake-sensors-for-bbs01-bbs02-mid-drive-kits. I mounted the sensor to the lever body and taped the magnet to the actual lever for testing. When I squeeze the lever, the motor goes dead for several seconds and the display reads ERROR 30. Once or twice it flashed ERROR 4 before reading ERROR 30. Once I release the lever and wait for several seconds, the drive returns to normal operation UNTIL you use the brakes again. I tested both sensors with the same result. The factory levers work fine and don't throw an error. Any ideas?

Will be very interested to hear any follow up to this as these seem to be a very neat solution.

 

[0utrider]

there are some that are having success with what is referred to as SRAMano - SRAM shifters with Shimano clutched derailleurs.

I made a mistake and ordered the wrong SRAM twist shifter for my SRAM derailleur.

It was a 2:1 pull version and not the 1:1 pull that I needed for the SX4 system on the Walgoose. This particular shifter would have worked just fine if I were running a standard Shimano setup.
Fortunately I sold the 2:1 and was able to economically obtain the right shifter.

My lesson learned here:
Find out what is the needed ratio for the derailleur before you buy!
That lessons learned book is getting rather thick by now...

 

[joshseitz]

Do a test to see if you get the same problem if you use the supplied mechanical ebrakes.

Yes, the original Bafang levers work fine and don't throw any errors.

 

[Tom L]

Do a test to see if you get the same problem if you use the supplied mechanical ebrakes.

Yes, the original Bafang levers work fine and don't throw any errors.

Then it would apear to be a wiring/manufacturing problem with the universal sensors themselves. When activalted they could be excessively loading the 5V line causing throttle sense (err4) and communications (err30) errors to show up on the display. You need to have a chat with LeGrande at Lectric Cycles.

 

[joshseitz]

Yep. Already sent him an email. I'll share my findings when (and if) they emerge. In the meantime, I'll be riding sans brake sensors.

 

[hie2kolob]

I don't know if this has been tried before...


As you can see I have two gear rings installed on my BBS02. The outside is the stock bafang gear ring and the inside is the Italian 42T ring. There is no front derailleur so the chain is moved by hand. I use the larger ring for travel on the pavement to the mountains about 2 miles away and shift to the 42T Italian gear ring when I am off road.

The chain-line is not an issue because I only need the higher gears on the rear cassette on the road. That being said I can still use all nine gears on the rear cassette. Mounting both gear rings proved to be quite simple as well. All I did was purchase 5 longer hex headed screws and put a small lock washer for spacing between the rings on each screw. This way I seem to have the best of both worlds on road or off road.

 

[speedmd]

I left my FD on the bike and would use it if I had the two rings for certain. A 42 / 53 would be killer with the 750w kit. You may be able to attach a larger ring with the center cut out a bit. I would go for it and try the FD.

 

[0utrider]

I don't know if this has been tried before...


As you can see I have two gear rings installed on my BBS02. The outside is the stock bafang gear ring and the inside is the Italian 42T ring. There is no front derailleur so the chain is moved by hand. I use the larger ring for travel on the pavement to the mountains about 2 miles away and shift to the 42T Italian gear ring when I am off road.

The chain-line is not an issue because I only need the higher gears on the rear cassette on the road. That being said I can still use all nine gears on the rear cassette. Mounting both gear rings proved to be quite simple as well. All I did was purchase 5 longer hex headed screws and put a small lock washer for spacing between the rings on each screw. This way I seem to have the best of both worlds on road or off road.

Certainly a cool idea!

 

[skyungjae]

BMS Battery offers the Bafang BBS-02 with either a c961 or c963 display. Does anyone know the differences between the two?

Thanks!

 

[tomjasz]

Point by point no, but here's the manuals.
Off the cuff, the 963 has the control buttons in the display. the 961 a separate wired control M, +, and -
http://www.bike-emotion.org/downloads/manual-of-c963.pdf
http://www.bike-emotion.org/downloads/manual-of-c961.pdf
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0288/5998/files/Lectric_Cycles_C965_Manual.pdf?412

 

[Lenk42602]

fyi,

I have the 965 display on my new unit.

kinda like it.


it is listed as waterproof, has an auto sensing backlight, calculates watts. plus all the other functions of the 961 and 963.

just got the bike completely wired and ridden up the street a few times.

pretty impressed overall.

len

 

[skyungjae]

fyi,

I have the 965 display on my new unit.

kinda like it.


it is listed as waterproof, has an auto sensing backlight, calculates watts. plus all the other functions of the 961 and 963.

just got the bike completely wired and ridden up the street a few times.

pretty impressed overall.

len

Wow, which vendors sell it with the 965 unit? I like the vertical style. 8)

 

[Lenk42602]

lectric cycles.

I should have a video up in the next few days...

Len

 

[beachcruiser]

I am seriously considering the BBS02 750w 48V kit from em3ev with the 29e 16.5Ah battery to install on a Giant mountain bike. I have a few questions which may help in my decision as it's quite expensive to get these kits shipped to Australia.

1. I'm assuming the Giant 27 speed will become a 9 speed when the crank/derailleur etc is replaced with the Bafang BBS02 unit?
2. I would prefer to use the hydraulic disc brake setup rather than the Bafang kit brake auto cutouts that are provided. Can you do that and how easy is it? Do you have to have brake cutouts at all or is that a safety no no?
3. What is the difference between em3ev's 22P batteries (ie in the 12.3Ah triangle battery) vs the 29e (in teh 16.5 triangle battery)? I assume the 29e batteries are superier but is their a real life difference?
4. Can you change the thumb throttle out to a half twist grip throttle instead? and if so will any grip throttle work (such as a Magura) or I assume it needs to match the connection to the controller?

thanks for any feedback.

 

[Masure]

1. True
2. You don't need the brake cutouts for the controler to work. But I would recommand it for safety. There is a brake sensor you can put with any brake lever. I don't have the shop in mind, but others can tell.
3. 22P bigger discharge rate, 29E more capacity. If you want to go hard with your 750W motor, 29E voltage will sag. Both are good cells and choice depends on your A demand.

 

[beachcruiser]

1. True
2. You don't need the brake cutouts for the controler to work. But I would recommand it for safety. There is a brake sensor you can put with any brake lever. I don't have the shop in mind, but others can tell.
3. 22P bigger discharge rate, 29E more capacity. If you want to go hard with your 750W motor, 29E voltage will sag. Both are good cells and choice depends on your A demand.

thanks Masure, that is helpful.

 

[Russell]

3. 22P bigger discharge rate, 29E more capacity. If you want to go hard with your 750W motor, 29E voltage will sag. Both are good cells and choice depends on your A demand.

22P cells are rated for higher loads but in the same parallel configuration they SAG more than 29E cells for the same current draw. See this test of the 13S4P 22P downtube battery from EM3ev;

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=58928&start=50#p887799

29E's would sag about 60% as much as the 22P's
20R's will sag about half as much as the 29E's

Buy 29E's for capacity, buy 20R's for performance... or wait for 25R's for 25% more capacity than 20R's with about the same performance.

-R

 

[Masure]

Thanks for correcting !

 

[beachcruiser]

or wait for 25R's for 25% more capacity than 20R's with about the same performance.

when do these come out?

 

[Russell]

or wait for 25R's for 25% more capacity than 20R's with about the same performance.

when do these come out?

Cellman has been waiting 2 months for them;

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=8


-R

 

[beachcruiser]

Cellman has been waiting 2 months for them;

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... ation_id=8

righto, thanks.

 

[Shorty]

Beachcruiser I'm running a BBS02 750w in a Kona Dawg with hydraulic brakes and as yet don't have any brake switches. The brakes can easily pull the bike up.
I have a EM3EV 12.3 ah 22p triangle pack and it works well.
I replaced the supplied thumb throttle with a better quality one from Lectric cycles for the LH side as I have an Alfine IGH gear selector on the RHS.

 

[beachcruiser]

Beachcruiser I'm running a BBS02 750w in a Kona Dawg with hydraulic brakes and as yet don't have any brake switches. The brakes can easily pull the bike up.
I have a EM3EV 12.3 ah 22p triangle pack and it works well.
I replaced the supplied thumb throttle with a better quality one from Lectric cycles for the LH side as I have an Alfine IGH gear selector on the RHS.

Hi Shorty, thanks for the info. I would have the same issue with my gear selector on the RHS.
I'm curious as to your max speed on the flat with no pedaling throttle only? and to the approx range of your setup on that battery?

 

[arclarke]

I'm finally getting round to ordering a BBS02 mid drive and battery, and realised there's a few options to juggle in terms of volts and battery.

For an easy life I like the look of the ready made frame pack which locks onto the bottle cage mounts, but it isn't the biggest pack and I will want to maximise the range - aiming for at least 30miles at 20-22ish mph (with a fairly upright riding position), though I pedal well enough to average 14-15mph without a motor.

For range the high charge samsung 29E type cells look best.
The 750W sounds nice but drawing 25A needs 6 cells in parallel but the rigid pack only fits 13S4P so no good - I want to avoid easily removed battery frame bags. And do I really need 750W?

500W at 48V draws 18A so will just about work with the 4P pack,
but there's also a 500W at 36V - this draws 25A again, but at 36V the battery pack holds 6P so can do 25A OK.
And 10S6P is a 15% increase in capacity over 13S4P which would help with range.

Any other differences to worry about between the 36V and 48V versions of the 500W?

Finally, does anyone recommend dropping power to the BBS01 350W - would be very kind to the battery and probably give better range at expense of speed. Of course the motor is liable to be pushed harder - is this a problem?

Alan