New conversion project for Piaggio Zip 50

My EM150SP lasted three days. I was driving at low speed (80kph) when I let go of the accelerator to slow down (up to 60kmh). I tried to accelerate again but it didn't respond to commands. While I was slowing down, white smoke came out of the controller and frightened, I disconnect the current from the key (deactivate the contactor) and reactivate it to see if it still works. As soon as I stop, the white smoke continues and then starts to burn the whole control unit that ignites the whole scooter (it burned everything, battery, engine, plastics and fairings and tires, only the frame remained). How could this happen? In three days that I used it, it had already happened to me that it did not respond to the throttle controls and by turning the key and reactivating it it returned to work.
I am very sorry and scared of the accident. if I had water or a fire extinguisher I would have saved everything (except the controller).
can you tell me why the whole controller burned out and not just the capacitor?
 
Wow that sounds very alarming, sorry to hear it. Sounds like a major failure in the controller that caused a short circuit and when you re-closed the contactor it continued and melted the controller then overheated the battery. That is very unusual.

I would complain to the vendor. They should issue you a warranty replacement. Unfortunately your project is gone now but you can rebuild it and even better with the things you learnt first time.

Cheers
Tyler

 
Unfortunately, nothing can be recovered, everything is burned, only the frame is recoverable. I will try to ask the seller by complaint. Luckily I didn't get burned or hurt. But the scooter was completely destroyed, even the aluminum rims melted and deformed. I should start from scratch but I don't know if I will, I'm afraid. Could it be that the energy produced by the engine as I left the accelerator caused the ECU to burst? Shouldn't he send her to drums? The controller was shipped with the motor and configured by the seller, I have not changed any parameters.
1612266147940.jpg
 
Here are the few photos I took when the scooter was finished:

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1612266147982.jpg

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Some technical details:

0-50 too strong, not measured as the scooter wheeled
0-100 around 8 seconds
Top Speed Tacho 125kph (117 GPS)
Reduction 4.25:1 with chain
Motor QS 138 90H 4kW
Nm 80Nm
Controller Votol EM-150SP (canbus)
Voltage 72v (battery max 83,9V=20S)
Current set 120A (set on controller busbar page 1, 150A busbar page 2 from factory ser)
Battery Li-ion 20S20P 2800mAh with BMS 150A continuous 300A peak (common port charge/discharge) 17kg
Charger 84V 10A
DC-DC 12V 10A
Circuit Breaker 300A (automatic)
Main Fuse 150A ANL type (150A recomand from factory)
Contactor 400A (under key)
Cable HV 70mmq (2/0AWG)
 
Gianluca I am very sorry for you, that was a good looking machine. Must have been some fault in the controller if you did not change settings and the wiring was correct. I assume it was since the scooter ran for some time before it failed. Hopefully you can be refunded and I encourage you to try again.

Cheers
Tyler

 
I contacted the seller of the controller and motor kit but undaunted he claims that all the damage was due to the battery and the fuse which he said did not work. All he deduced by looking at the photo of the burned scooter in which you can see the frame and little else. How he came to draw this conclusion remains a mystery to me.

The fuse was recommended by him from 150A and the battery (at a characteristic level) was recommended by him.


Description of the event in which the fire occurred:
"Since it was not a short circuit of the battery (besides, as soon as the smoke came out I opened the contactor) the only option is that during the slowdown from 60km / h to 0 the controller has suffered damage. I repeat once again what I said, I was traveling at about 60 / 65km / h after slowing down after overtaking. When I tried to accelerate again to go back to 80km / h I noticed that the scooter was no longer responding to the accelerator commands. This problem had already occurred previously presented, but at low speeds, between 20 (about 1050rpm) and 30km / h (about 1600rpm). I solved earlier by turning the key and opening the contactor circuit (excluding the battery) and closing the circuit and scooter started. That day, however, it was not like that, by turning the key and opening the contactor circuit, the controller did not reset from the error. Before reopening the contact of the known white smoke contactor and trying to stop at the roadside and instantaneously I open the contactor circuit, but the combustion of the controller does not stop. I tried to put it out with my jacket but it was too strong to put out and I knew that if the fire heated the battery too much I would be at risk, so I walked away looking for help from passers-by. Meanwhile the fire had already wrapped the fairings in plastic and the saddle of the scooter and I could not do anything more to tame it and I waited in the distance for it to go out. Help came too late. "

Seller:
"Suppose the controller has an internal short circuit, then in this time, the Feus circuit breaker should trip and the BMS should cut the power as well. But the result is that the battery etc. is still working as you stated in the last one. email, so it means BMS and fuse and circuit breaker didn't trip at that time. So it means there is no short circuit. So from this perspective, it means our controller is not a problem.
Thank God, get off the e-scooter on time and you are safe. But in reality, the battery broke on its own, it will first produce a little smoke, then slowly draw fire. It doesn't stop right away, because the battery is combined one by one. So the first is broken, then the second. "




Certainly a short circuit produces high current, but a short circuit of the lithium cells causes instant damage to them. The cells react by heating up to about 65-70 ° C, sometimes with deformation of the cells. The battery is instantly unusable as it no longer produces current. This hypothesis is to be excluded since the fuse has not tripped, and neither has the circuit breaker. Furthermore, the BMS would also cut power if a short circuit occurred. The battery was still functional and healthy, as the lights, voltmeter and everything connected was still functional at the start of the fire.
The only event that produces a battery explosion (not smoke, but instantaneous explosion) is overheating, that is the strong overheating of the battery cells, for example if exposed to fire, which happened, in fact in the video we note how some cells explode (like fireworks) as a result of overheating caused by the flames. The only event that causes smoke from lithium cells is punching them (it is not enough to hit them with a hammer, you have to damage them internally) laterally, sending anode and cathode into contact within the single cell itself (an event that produces little smoke and a instantaneous explosion of the cell). If a short had occurred (and the fuse, circuit breaker or BMS had not blown) the battery would have exploded while I was still on the scooter, and thankfully it did not. From this it is clear that it was the fire that damaged the battery (and the whole scooter with the rest of the components). Fire caused by the explosion of the controller components, mainly the electrolytic capacitors, which are known to release considerable smoke on rupture followed by the development of flames. The electrolytic capacitor contains a wet separator inside and will dry out of the unit by becoming too hot, causing an internal short to develop. Certainly the current developed by the decelerating motor has damaged the controller by overloading the capacitors, causing them to break with consequent emission of white smoke and flames fed by the surrounding components and by the plastic that covers everything.

I hope to get a refund, and in any case I would have already lost the money for customs taxes and total destruction of the scooter. I could make use of the Italian legislation for the protection of defective and unsafe products which very clearly states that "any damage, even to third parties, caused by a defective and therefore unsafe product caused to things and / or people is the responsibility of the seller, unless is a pre-sale contract in which such compensation is waived ".
 
Battery around 73v/73,5v
Regeneration set from factory, i don't modify it
Set in Page1 set from factory:
>Overvoltage 85v
>Undervoltage 61v
>Softundervoltage 64v
>Undervoltage variation 1
>Busbar 120A
>Phase current 9960

Page2:
>High(%) "100"
>Flux Weakening compensation "80"
>Flux Weakening "3000" and "6000" (on High, 3gear)
>HHC Enable "NO"
>HDC Enable "YES"
>HDC Lowrst Speed "6000"
>Softstart Enable "YES", with grade"12"

Page3:
>pole pairs "5"
>motor type "V-type"
>exchange hall wire color Yellow-Blue
>exchange phase wire Blue-Green



This is my wiring diagram on the scooter:

Schema Elettrico 72v.jpg


now I will have to rebuild it (within a few months, not immediately because I really spent a lot for the electrical modification). As a motor I will always use the QS 138 90H and always 72v 20s20p 60Ah battery (real 56Ah, 20px2800mAh) with continuous 150A common port bms and 300A peak. Which controller do you recommend? Do I go back to using an EM150SP or better bet on the EM200SP or EM300 if they are more resistant and less delicate?
I think it was too much regenerating current that damaged the controller. I was about 80kmh, then I slowed down to 60 / 65kmh and I wanted to re-accelerate but it did not respond to the command, so I open and close the contactor to reset the controller but I do not solve and it keeps coming out smoke and I open the contactor by cutting the current but it continues to burn . When in the future I will have to rebuild it how can I delete the regen? or is it possible to eliminate it up to a certain voltage threshold? For example, when the battery is fully charged (about 83V) it keeps it off, then introduces it when it drops to a value that would not cause damage, for example 75v? Can such a thing be programmed on votol? Or what else can I do to get the regen only when needed?
Also, if I disable the regen, does the motor slow down always produce current or not? Doesn't it damage the controller again if it accumulates current without triggering the regen towards the battery? thank you
 
I'm not Votol expert. But the regen should be limited proportional to battery voltage yes. I don't know if the controller or BMS manage this.
Regarding coasting, without regen the motor won't produce current because it has no circuit to flow through. The controller IGTs are 'open'. So it should be safe. But it is good to have regen.

I suggest you ask your questions in the Votol thread Gianluca and plan from there, many more helpful and experienced builders.

I'm glad you are planning to rebuild though. PS with that motor I would suggest using a larger more comfortable scooter for the conversion, like Goleta Runner or Yamaha Xmax size. Good luck!

Cheers
Tyler

 
Thanks for your support and encouragement. As for the choice of the scooter, I am "obliged" to use the Piaggio Zip because it is electric approved and I run no risk if the police stop me. I made two years ago an electric Aprilia SR50R with 4kW motorbike HUB 13"(but it worked maximum at 2400W because the controller was the original E-Max 110S with 48v40Ah 60A continuous / 120A peak battery). It was excellent, NEVER a problem . I had a range of about 65 / 70km and it was excellent, but speed limited to 50kmh). It is still working (but now I don't have a battery, I have sold it) but I can't use it on the road because it is approved for 2t petrol. That's why I have to use the Zip 50. Now I'm finding a Piaggio block on which to modify the gears and, with a system of two toothed pulleys, it obtains a reduction ratio identical to the transmission I had now, that is 4.25: 1 (or maybe even 4: 1 so it doesn't wheel up dangerously by itself and I get more speed and maybe lower consumption).
 
Hello everyone, after a long period of absence I am trying to complete my electric scooter (Piaggio Zip SP 50). In the past I used a 72v 56Ah battery, QS 138 90H 4kW motor and Votol EM150SP controller. At the moment my new project is based on an ASI BAC8000 controller (which I bought from Martin Mertik), a QS 138 90H 4kW motor and a 72v 70Ah Li-ion battery with BMS "common port" 150A continuous (250° peak) Battery's Link on Aliexpress
The wiring is 70mmq (for 72v) and 4mmq (for 12v with DC-DC 72v-12v 20A 240W)

I would like to play it safe this time and avoid problems. I asked Martin to set the "regen" current to a maximum of 7A (the charger is 10A so it is in the right range) and that it can also be disabled from the touchscreen display that he provided me to manage the settings of the ASI BAC8000 controller. In your opinion, with this battery, how many amps can I use at most consistently to avoid overheating/damage to the battery and everything else?
I would like to set 3 speeds from display:
1 ^) 7kmh (pedestrian areas)
2 ^) 45kmh (speed authorized in Italy for mopeds up to 50cc)
and 3 ^) the highest I can reach without straining battery / motor / controller.

Also if you have any advice to give me, they are welcome.
Thank you all.


I attach images of the material I have for my project.
View attachment asi bac8000.webp connettore batteria.jpg contattore.jpgqs 138 90h.jpg circuit breaker.jpg acceleratore.jpg
 

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  • asi bac8000.webp
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your sr is not blow up because u did use all parts from a used working bike.u should buy a niu and build over all parts into ur zip.these chinees brands are all scams have a terrible bad customer service they dont care about warranty dont speak good english nothing just buy it ship it and good luck with it.well im stil want to buy this kit Siaecosys QS MOTOR 90 1000W V2 Mid Drive Motor Assemble Kits With EM50SP Controller for Electric Sco
but without support it will be difficult and dangerous.if im looking at my niu bike they using almost similair parts.that bosch motor not made by bosch it just a qsmotor.controllers looks the same as votol dashboard too etc.
or similiar kit :
with a custom subframe which fit under the zip.
i find a seller but he sell it with a latest em50-4 controller but this controller not match with the wiring harness they sell for the older em50 or em100.with poor manual is difficult also adjust the software.so hell again need to measure everything before connect.same story with the batteries.i dont want u use any dangerous li ion 18650 cells in my house.better go for lifepo4 or lto only the zip is really small bike with a very limited space.also right now i stil confusing which voltage i should choose cuz battery packs for 48 and 60v are cheaper.also no need to build a rocket bike.here u can see the niu battery almost fit in my zip.u should cover and protect all hardware from rain and dirt.that air switch or fuse i cant find it in my niu.so is more safer then those qsmotor parts.20230514_112353.jpg20230430_235921.jpg20230514_002127.jpg
 
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Hi, unfortunately I can't use these conversion kits because I want to use the original Piaggio transmission. The other time it was a chain with two sprockets (428); this time it's belt driven HTD-8M-25mm with two pulleys. The total reduction ratio is always the same (4.25:1) but this time I used Polini and Malossi gears to lengthen the gear ratio to reduce the size of the pulleys. At 4250rpm of the engine, I get 1000 revolutions at the wheel. I can easily vary the ratio by changing one or two pulleys (with minimal cost) and the belt to obtain more speed or simply reduce the engine rpm and reduce fuel consumption.

This is the old project (burned) with EM150SP setted at 120A, QS 138 90H and Li-ion 72v56Ah BMS 150A continuous/300A peak
0v.png

Now it's like this with ASI BAC8000, QS 138 90H and battery 72v70Ah with BMS 150A continuous/250A peak:

1.png2.png3.png4.png346085844_632196075621018_317822396564567215_n.jpg346099132_787444802706718_3350443474725410778_n.jpg



How much do you think I should limit constant Amperes? And the peak ones accelerating? And those in the REGEN phase?
 
Looks nice but im not a fan of mid drive motors i like to drive quit and hub motors have less maintance.Sorry i cant help u with that adjustment yet.Do u have the size of that battery or link cuz i find a few sellers but stil not a good sizes or too low amperes.Also which brand are the best?Kelly Votol Fardriver or others.
 
I have a hub motor in the wheel of my Aprilia SR, now I only use mid motors. The measures of the battery are these, thickness 145mm
IMG_20230522_060912.jpg
 
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Can anyone help me figure out how much constant current (A) I can get from this type of battery (safely, without risk of burning)? Thank you
 
Can anyone help me figure out how much constant current (A) I can get from this type of battery (safely, without risk of burning)? Thank you
Which "type of battery" are you referring to?

To know the maximum continuous current you can get from a battery, you need to know:
-- the cells, so you can look up the spec sheet for them and find their limitations,
-- the BMS, so you can look up it's limitations,
-- the interconnects and wiring and connectors, so you can look up or calculate their limitations.
The weakest point of any of those is your limiting factor.

Also, you probably won't want to always/constantly/continuously use the max capable current of the cells, because they usually have signficant voltage sag and sometimes internal heating that degrades them over time, and will provide less than normal capacity at that rate.
 
Which "type of battery" are you referring to?

To know the maximum continuous current you can get from a battery, you need to know:
-- the cells, so you can look up the spec sheet for them and find their limitations,
-- the BMS, so you can look up it's limitations,
-- the interconnects and wiring and connectors, so you can look up or calculate their limitations.
The weakest point of any of those is your limiting factor.

Also, you probably won't want to always/constantly/continuously use the max capable current of the cells, because they usually have signficant voltage sag and sometimes internal heating that degrades them over time, and will provide less than normal capacity at that rate.
Features provided by the seller:

BMS Constant 150A / Peak 250A

Battery 72v (20S) 70Ah (??P)

30C rate Max discharge cells

Weight about 18 kg (weighed on people scale)



I don't know the cell code, but the batteries I bought from various sellers on Aliexpress were always 18650-26E 2600mAh



the connectors are declared 200A with 50mmq cable (I use a 70mmq cable)
 
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