New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

[liveforphysics]

Speaking of resonance...

I finally got my ht35 mounted and tried it out yesterday. It's so loud it's embarrassing! it grumbles and howls from 0 to 10 mph then its ok until about 20 mph but quiet faster than 23 mph. My bmc v2 was MUCH quieter. I'm pretty sure It's wired right as it's pulling the right amount of amps and runs real strong. Fastest I've had it was 35 mph but it would have gone alot faster if the damn phase wires hadn't shorted out after only 1.5 miles.

Screw it, Maybe I'll take it apart next week. With the luck I've had lately, I probably cooked the new controller too :x

Damn! You smoked the phase wires in 1.5miles??? *Thumbs-up!* You're riding it proper!

 

[icecube57]

For nicobie...

 

[neptronix]

i hit 100km/h today on one of the hs30's at 100v 65amps. gopro footage to come.

Damn can't wait..

 

[electricwheels.de]

What motor is quieter at speed 25 km/h 408 or HT?

Definitely the 40x series!

The new HT & HS motors remind me of riding a tram ...

 

[electricwheels.de]

Speaking of resonance...

I finally got my ht35 mounted and tried it out yesterday. It's so loud it's embarrassing! it grumbles and howls from 0 to 10 mph then its ok until about 20 mph but quiet faster than 23 mph. My bmc v2 was MUCH quieter. I'm pretty sure It's wired right as it's pulling the right amount of amps and runs real strong. Fastest I've had it was 35 mph but it would have gone alot faster if the damn phase wires hadn't shorted out after only 1.5 miles.

Screw it, Maybe I'll take it apart next week. With the luck I've had lately, I probably cooked the new controller too :x

Crikey ....
I knew it would happen eventually but I didn't expect it to happen THAT soon.
Did you you see my comments on that (possible) problem a few pages back?
Did you mount the cable under some tension?
Rest assured, you won't be the first one this will happen to :|

 

[Planky]

Hi Guys, a quick question from a noobie.

I have a HS3540 I am putting in a KMX and need advice on the positioning of the washers.

If I put the washer like I normally would with a nut like this (imagine the spanner is the dropout), the sprocket contacts the dropout:

If I put the washer like this it spins ok: :?

Which is the correct way?
And how about the disc brake side?

 

[nicobie]

I'm only running 92v @ 50a so I don't think that was the problem. I read somewhere here that the factory did a shit job running the wires into the motor. It appears that there was a lot of sharp edges and they cut the wires right where they enter the motor. That is probably what happened to me. This motor has halls so maybe one of those wires shorted but I don't think so as the bike could not be rode. I had to push the damn thing to a friend's house.

I'm more concerned with the racket it makes. It must be wired right because it runs strong. More torque than my BMC v2-s. Top speed is more than 35 mph. If it was wired wrong I don't think it would have gone that fast. It's laced into a 24" rim, maybe that is the problem. If I can't get it to quiet down I guess I'll have to try a 26" one.

When I get over getting pissed off, :x I'll open it up and post pics.

Thud: You and Luke stay away from my side covers!

Hyena: they are the stock phase wires but they look more like 14g to me. I'll measure one when I get it apart.

 

[nicobie]

How in the heck do you get the side covers off on these motors?

I got the screws out no problem and the covers are slightly split apart from the body. The one on the wire side shows a 1/8" gap and spins freely but I can't get it off. Tried prying with 4 screwdrivers but I'm afraid I'm going to break the cover. What am I missing? Do I need to use a puller mounted on the disc brake holes?

 

[liveforphysics]

How in the heck do you get the side covers off on these motors?

I got the screws out no problem and the covers are slightly split apart from the body. The one on the wire side shows a 1/8" gap and spins freely but I can't get it off. Tried prying with 4 screwdrivers but I'm afraid I'm going to break the cover. What am I missing? Do I need to use a puller mounted on the disc brake holes?

I just rocked it back and forth with screwdrivers. It took about 10mins of wrestling with it. I didn't have a puller that I could adapt to it.

 

[curious]

Well my HS3540 does not make any resonating sound, in fact i have to struggle to hear any operating noise on my motor. Maybe its the meger 20amps at 36v that i am currently running it on but either way, its practically silent, my freewheel makes more noise to be honest.
moment its a custom batch order for sensored ones i believe.

The new HT & HS motors remind me of riding a tram ...

Are we talking about the same hub ? I guess sensored and sensorless setups may have different sound level/pattern but this much different ? Or is it a QC problem ?
My X5+steel frame has two resonance spots causing very unpleasant high frequency frame vibration but outside these spots it is fairly quiet, no whine noise like geared bafang.
(I am building a long range touring recumbent and kind of torn between 9C and HT. I have a spare 9C but what weights in favor of HT hub is that it presumably does not require spreading the rear dropout with 7-8sp freewheel, which is important considering the cost of recumbent frameset.)

 

[itselectric]

How in the heck do you get the side covers off on these motors?

I got the screws out no problem and the covers are slightly split apart from the body. The one on the wire side shows a 1/8" gap and spins freely but I can't get it off. Tried prying with 4 screwdrivers but I'm afraid I'm going to break the cover. What am I missing? Do I need to use a puller mounted on the disc brake holes?

nicobie:

it depends the batch of Crystlayte that you received and from whom. The early batch production motor such as Feb 2011 and before, they do not put anything in between the case and cover plate, or liquid lock into the screw. All of the latest batch of motors are fill with sealer and liquid lock around the screw. So you have to be care not to force it open. I would use a blow torch to heat up the cover plate around the case, to melt the sealer, and just do it slowly, open it up one small section at a time.

ken

 

[Andje]

i used a tiny flathead screwdriver one time, and this last time i actually tapped a razor blade in all the way around to break the seal before i used the screwdriver. I found once it was loosened i was good to go; the axel is well polished so if you can apply even torque from two sides of the cover it slides easily, if the torque is uneven the sharp inside edge can catch on the chrome and stick.

 

[neptronix]

I've got my finger on the trigger as far as ordering one of these, but certainly gun shy

So tell me..
Would it be smart to wait the first batches out? or is there a batch out there with the issues sorted..

Also.. how's the crystalyte sensorless controller? any opinions yet?
I heard the speed limit switch changes the amps and not the speed.. that is a big big plus, so i am almost willing to fork over the $ for that controller.

 

[Andje]

here is a link to my 100 km/h run on a completely stock hs30 from methods sensored prebuy. All i have done is drill cooling holes.
[youtube]5fiJjvqK4RA[/youtube]
This is at 100v (About 97 in the vid dropping to about 92 from voltage drop) and my 18 fet lyens controller is set at 65 amps battery 130 phase.

 

[itselectric]

I just received a modified winding HS3548 rear motor, we request to have custom wind motor to be like 5302. Sorry there are no picture, it just look like any other HS3540 rear from the outside, but this thing fly. At 36v, fully charged battery at 40v, it hit 48km/h, at 72v, it will hit 96km/h, at 100v, it will hit 120km/h. I only have two, i believe this is the only two and the first HS3548 ever make.

Ken

 

[full-throttle]

How in the heck do you get the side covers off on these motors?

I just place the wheel on the ground with the free sidecover facing up and step on the rim. Watch out for the stator - it will try to jump back in.

 

[gensem]

After 42 pages of posts Im still wondering how they let so many bugs pass by. I mean for real! I agree its somehow cheap... but I would rather pay 5 hundred bucks for a real hub...
Maybe its just me that doesnt like to waste his saturday noon figuring out what the manufacturer did wrong.
The seller or crytalyte ll tell you pushed it too far.. thats just nonsense...

 

[theRealFury]

Well my HS3540 does not make any resonating sound, in fact i have to struggle to hear any operating noise on my motor. Maybe its the meger 20amps at 36v that i am currently running it on but either way, its practically silent, my freewheel makes more noise to be honest.
moment its a custom batch order for sensored ones i believe.

The new HT & HS motors remind me of riding a tram ...

Are we talking about the same hub ? I guess sensored and sensorless setups may have different sound level/pattern but this much different ? Or is it a QC problem ?
My X5+steel frame has two resonance spots causing very unpleasant high frequency frame vibration but outside these spots it is fairly quiet, no whine noise like geared bafang.
(I am building a long range touring recumbent and kind of torn between 9C and HT. I have a spare 9C but what weights in favor of HT hub is that it presumably does not require spreading the rear dropout with 7-8sp freewheel, which is important considering the cost of recumbent frameset.)

Well i have no reason to state an untruth but it could be one of 3 things if you ask me.

1) I came from a 250w bafang geared front hub, very noisy hub that being front drive you drive into the noise so was always very loud whine. Now i have a DD rear where you drive away from the noise and no gear whine (so you dont hear the running noise much at all). So maybe im just so used to hearing a loud hub that the subtle sounds from the rear DD are playing on deaf ears?

2) I only currently am able to run the motor at 800w max. Maybe for someone dumping 6.5kw into the motor it cries like a baby but for me there is no whining or humming, just an almost inaudiable ticking that i can only hear when going below 10mph.

3) Maybe on some frames the motor causes resonance of some sort? My frame is an toughened all alluminium frame with no rear suspension. Perhaps this has something to do with it. Im certainly not of the impression it could be a QC issue as a motor is pretty simple and these things are mass produced so the motors should be virtually identical unlike if they were hand made and cast by hand.

I have an 8speed freewheel and hydraulic brake caliper on my HS3540 on standard 135mm dropouts and although it was a tight squeese i did not have to bend the frame at all. Definatley not space for a 9 speed freewheel without modifications.

 

[hochdorf]

Now i have a DD

What is DD?

 

[Ypedal]

Now i have a DD

What is DD?

Direct Drive ( ie : not geared )

 

[Truusje79]

After 42 pages of posts Im still wondering how they let so many bugs pass by. I mean for real! I agree its somehow cheap... but I would rather pay 5 hundred bucks for a real hub...
Maybe its just me that doesnt like to waste his saturday noon figuring out what the manufacturer did wrong.
The seller or crytalyte ll tell you pushed it too far.. thats just nonsense...

For all the people who wanted to order a Clyte HS-series from Crystalyte Europe, the prices just went up from 220 to 270 euro for the complete wheel and from 180 to 224,88 for the hubmotor itself, just to inform you all.

I ordered 3 days ago so be saving some $$$$, hopefully higher price and better QC......

TruusjeKMX

 

[theRealFury]

After 42 pages of posts Im still wondering how they let so many bugs pass by. I mean for real! I agree its somehow cheap... but I would rather pay 5 hundred bucks for a real hub...
Maybe its just me that doesnt like to waste his saturday noon figuring out what the manufacturer did wrong.
The seller or crytalyte ll tell you pushed it too far.. thats just nonsense...

For all the people who wanted to order a Clyte HS-series from Crystalyte Europe, the prices just went up from 220 to 270 euro for the complete wheel and from 180 to 224,88 for the hubmotor itself, just to inform you all.

I ordered 3 days ago so be saving some $$$$, hopefully higher price and better QC......

TruusjeKMX

wonder what has changed so much to warrent a 50euro increase in price or is it just a fact that they are selling too fast to they upped the price to try and get a fw more $$ out of it? Im still trying to work out what the problems with these motors are, mine seems to be purrfect so far but perhaps only time will tell.

 

[itselectric]

wonder what has changed so much to warrent a 50euro increase in price or is it just a fact that they are selling too fast to they upped the price to try and get a fw more $$ out of it? Im still trying to work out what the problems with these motors are, mine seems to be purrfect so far but perhaps only time will tell.

China is having major in inflation. It has been for years, now all of suppliers and manufacturers realize they have charge more. All raw material price had gone up 20 - 40% such as rare earth magnets, which all brushless motor had. It had nothing to do with product selling too fast.

 

[manitu]

I was about to say "ordered just in time" but the HT still costs 180E??

somewhat strange..

.manitu

 

[Truusje79]

Yes maybe inflation got to do with it, but 50 euro is a big raise for the end user.

C E was putting a stronger ( in terms of output ) and equally light motor in the pricerange of an 4XX series that was probably for them like sitting on the branch they were sawing off, they just put the price nicely between 4XX and 5XXX serie so to give both a chance to sell out ( if they gonna take them out of production which I doubt )

I think the controllers and especially the batteries they offer are far too expensive, and now the motors are scratching the pain threshold too... ( of some wallets I mean )

I was about to say "ordered just in time" but the HT still costs 180E??

somewhat strange..

.manitu

Yep speed will cost you, torque is free, same motor, different KV, ( it rhymes ) I think this is more like an ordinairy price raise instead of inflation, material cost is about the same probably for both the HT and HS, just get the HT and push 100 volt X 100 amps through it, that´ll teach ´em

TruusjeKMX