New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

[Tincan]

I have to ask.

People having trouble with the screws, are you using uncle bobs $2 set from kmart then using the #1 Phillips head?

I had absolutely no issues at all.

Good quality #2 Phillips bit in my snap on ratchet screw driver.. Quick short burst and it cracked like an Indians virginity on her wedding night.

Don't bur it over by straining the screw. Use something with a good handle and it's easy as..

 

[Cheeseboy]

I found hammering the screws, and the screw driver while in the screw, helped to weaken the glue and allow the screw to be removed.

I only found that out after stripping half of the screws, however, so for those ones I simply filed a notch for a flat head screwdriver onto them and it became very easy.

I'm a flat head fanboy :lol:

 

[rebelpilot]

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[sn0wchyld]

I modified the existing plastic parts and I made a little fingernail shaped metal piece to insert through the seal and prevent the wires from contacting it (I repurposed a piece of DIN jack housing). The metal piece forces the wires down into the slot. 35 km and no problems yet, I hope the windings are bundled properly, I haven't the time to open the motor. Using the same settings and setup as my 9C (which lost a hall recently after one year and 2000km of reliable service) I am seeing better performance, 55km WOT on the flat nopedal (ping 48V 15Ah, Lyen 12FET, CA set at 25 amps). The motor smelled and felt a little warm after a 12km high speed commute, but the return run that was a little slower with a slightly lower ambient produced very little heat and no detectable varnish smell.
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what length of 'fingernail' did you use? Im planing on doing the exact same thing, seing I can see a small ammount of damage has already occored on the protective white stuff. Its probably been turned a total of 50 revolutions, with no load whatsoever (just to test that the motor/controller works, get the phase wires in the right order), a testimant to the fantastic build quality . Ive got a peice that's shaped near perfectly, as a U shape so that it supports itself against the axle rather than the wires, that way (with luck) it shouldnt move whatsoever, and the wires should never contact any moving parts . Just need to know how long or short to make it so It doesnt stick too far inside the motor and messes up the wires once they're clear of the side cover.

Actually, can someone measure (or knows already) the distance from the outside of the side cover where the wires exit the motor on the inside I dont have the time/tools (jackhammer :wink: ) atm to take off the side cover so anyone with the know-how/time thanks in advance!

Correct me if im wrong or if this is just plain dumb but im planning on cutting this U peice to length so it comes up just short of the inside of the side cover, and flairs out on the outside to sit against the modified black piece of plastic to prevent it moving in or out once I get it in place, creating a nice 'tunnel' for the wires to go through. should provide a good level of protection?

Thanks all.

 

[rebelpilot]

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[bakfiets]

Does anybody happen to know how I can get a hold of a new sidecover for the freewheel side?? Because I was in a hurry and not paying attention I accidentaly broke the freewheel thread off my HT3525.

 

[keyne]

How did you manage that?!

 

[Webbo]

Anybody had issues with wheel wobble on the hs motor? This motor is of such poor quality. From day one I have had problems. Or coarse poor wire to the motor which I have replaced anyway. But when you take a look and do some precise measurements this motor doesn't show much build quality. I just wish somebody in the west would make a quality motor. I would even pay more for something that's built with care and quality. I have two of these motors now they both suffer from this wobble. The shaft and the outside plate where the bearings racers run are not 100% in the centre. A reall important concept in wheel and hub building is to centre them100 %. Seems like this concept hasn't taken any importance in the Chinese crystalyte factory. Waste of money. I am not the owner of the old x5 series such as the 5304 but maybe they don't suffer from the design fault. I haven't even put this hub into a wheel yet as I'm scared to waste to money and time etc. If it's wobbling without a rim can you imagine what it will be like with one. It will be like riding a bike from the scrap yard

 

[theRealFury]

Anybody had issues with wheel wobble on the hs motor? This motor is of such poor quality. From day one I have had problems. Or coarse poor wire to the motor which I have replaced anyway. But when you take a look and do some precise measurements this motor doesn't show much build quality. I just wish somebody in the west would make a quality motor. I would even pay more for something that's built with care and quality. I have two of these motors now they both suffer from this wobble. The shaft and the outside plate where the bearings racers run are not 100% in the centre. A reall important concept in wheel and hub building is to centre them100 %. Seems like this concept hasn't taken any importance in the Chinese crystalyte factory. Waste of money. I am not the owner of the old x5 series such as the 5304 but maybe they don't suffer from the design fault. I haven't even put this hub into a wheel yet as I'm scared to waste to money and time etc. If it's wobbling without a rim can you imagine what it will be like with one. It will be like riding a bike from the scrap yard

Well Webbo, i think its a little hit and miss with the design quality, almost like one shift at the factory cares obout the quality and the others dont give a damn. My HS3540 came laced into a rim and it was true on arrival with no wobble at all, i have put about 800miles on it so far without changing anything at all and it still runs great. My wheel now has the very slightest of sideways wobble as it spins which is probably due to the spokes bedding in (have not got arround to getting it retrued yet) but the motor still runs 100% centered arround the axle. Honestly when i read some of the horror stories about these motors i often wonder if we are talking about different ones. I feel really lucky to have gotten one of the early ones before they started messing about with putting halls in them as most of the ones bought now seem like trash in comparison.

 

[rebelpilot]

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[RVD]

ok probably a really dumb question but i did manage to get these glued in screws off. it wasn't too bad.

so now all 9 screws are removed from the disc brake side. How do I take off the cover? Seems like it's stuck in there.

 

[Planky]

ok probably a really dumb question but i did manage to get these glued in screws off. it wasn't too bad.

so now all 9 screws are removed from the disc brake side. How do I take off the cover? Seems like it's stuck in there.

I used a three legged puller between the axle and the disc brake. The initial part was very stiff then it gradually eased up.

 

[RVD]

i can't even get a small screwdriver between what should be a gap between the cover and motor. oh well, maybe i'll look for a 3 legged puller tomorrow.

 

[keyne]

you can just grab the rotor and other side panel and then bash the axle on a piece of wood until you break the seal - worked for me

 

[gensem]

Any sensored HT/HS avaialable?

 

[methods]

Any sensored HT/HS avaialable?

Yes.. check the for sale section.... someone usually has one.

If nobody has one there you should see them soon at ebikes.ca
35mm censored in various wheel types.

I have a shipment that is in customs right now but I am only going to offer them as kits.

-methods

 

[Arlo1]

Any sensored HT/HS avaialable?

Yes.. check the for sale section.... someone usually has one.

If nobody has one there you should see them soon at ebikes.ca
35mm censored in various wheel types.

I have a shipment that is in customs right now but I am only going to offer them as kits.

-methods

Whats the brake disc bolt pattern for the HS35?

 

[nicobie]

Whats the brake disc bolt pattern for the HS35?

They take the standard bike rotor. My Avid bolted right on.

 

[RichiePA]

I just fitted my brand new HT35 which i bought from crystalyte-europe, after reading on the forum about the issue with cable rubbing I thought I'd check out mine before I run the hub. After I removed the plastic cover I found a really deep gash in the cables insulation. I've never run this hub this is how it was supplied to me it cost €220.00 which isn't too bad a price I guess but is still a lot of money and I expected better than this they really need to improve their quality control.... Norrappy

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I know that there is a thread on how to prevent rubbing damage but has anyone posted / know how to repair a damaged cable for this type of motor? I've e-mailed crystalyte europe but getting a reply from them is like getting blood out of a stone so I guess it's up to me with a little help from the mighty sphere.

 

[sn0wchyld]

I just fitted my brand new HT35 which i bought from crystalyte-europe, after reading on the forum about the issue with cable rubbing I thought I'd check out mine before I run the hub. After I removed the plastic cover I found a really deep gash in the cables insulation. I've never run this hub this is how it was supplied to me it cost €220.00 which isn't too bad a price I guess but is still a lot of money and I expected better than this they really need to improve their quality control.... Norrappy

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I know that there is a thread on how to prevent rubbing damage but has anyone posted / know how to repair a damaged cable for this type of motor? I've e-mailed crystalyte europe but getting a reply from them is like getting blood out of a stone so I guess it's up to me with a little help from the mighty sphere.

try to pull the black wire cover and check if the actual phase wires/hall wires are cut, or if it is just the protective outer black sleve. if its just the outer sleve then there are a few options on fixing it, one is to turn the plastic cover 180deg and cut a new hole, the other is to make a small fingernail/ inverted U shaped peice of aluminium or something similar and slot it in to protect the wires from the cutting part of the hub.

what i did to fix it...
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29373 (about 3/4 way down)
note however, this is yet to be extensively tested. I personally don't see how it can fail to protect the wires unless ive inadvertently created another issue...

more detail/other ideas...
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29731&start=15



the idea was originally from rebelpilot but I cant seem to find the original post for the life of me... have a search through his posts and it might turn up...

hope that helps.

 

[methods]

That is par for the course for low cost hubs from China. There has been a weird wave of high expectations washing over the community over the last few months..... Having unpacked hundreds of hubs form 9C and Crystalyte let me tell you... you dont even KNOW about quality control. I have unpacked brand new hubs with

* Covers cracked in half
* Spokes stripped and dangling
* rims 1" out of round
* broken wires splayed out
* connectors attached totally backwards and inside out
* ice cold solder joints that dont even conduct
* Holes tapped at every angle you can imagine
* Brakes drilled 1cm off center
* housings rubbing on windings and stator
* total DOA
* wound backwards 6x10 instead of 10x6
* er.. that enough for you?

All of these hubs are dirt cheap. The real variable in this game is how expensive it is for a dealer to get the hubs (shipping on my last order was $2k) and how much they need to mark them up to pay for criminal thieving like the VAT (20% tax) and overhead (employees, storage, inspection, handling, warranty, etc). Oh yea - profit as an afterthought.

Some retailers just sell hubs directly to customers - that is almost criminal.

Whenever I get a load of hubs I take an entire day, a wheel stand, controller/powersupply/throttle, a rag, tools, etc and I open and check out every single hub. This filters out 90% of problems you are likely to find.... but it would not find a problem like we have been seeing with these hubs. Dis-assembly risks way more damage than it is worth - so no retailer would do that under normal circumstances.

Now... I just landed a container full of these and you better believe I am going to spend much more time inspecting these than I normally would given all the troubles. That said - my shipment was post-correction so they should not need any corrective action. On my last shipment (the very first beta shipment to land) one of my customers received a hub that either had or developed a short on the phase wires which resulted in melt-down. It was avoidable (a loud running hub is an indication of a short in the phase wires) but in this case it was not avoided so everybody looses... The customer had all of the inconvenience and I will have to make that right with him.

So.... Before anyone gets too upset about a scuffed wire sleeve, it is good to keep things in perspective. This stuff is DIRT CHEAP from China. Anybody care to make a guess about what it would cost to buy one of these if it were sourced and assembled by one of our fine Union staffed manufacturing facilities???

-methods

I just fitted my brand new HT35 which i bought from crystalyte-europe, after reading on the forum about the issue with cable rubbing I thought I'd check out mine before I run the hub. After I removed the plastic cover I found a really deep gash in the cables insulation. I've never run this hub this is how it was supplied to me it cost €220.00 which isn't too bad a price I guess but is still a lot of money and I expected better than this they really need to improve their quality control.... Norrappy

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I know that there is a thread on how to prevent rubbing damage but has anyone posted / know how to repair a damaged cable for this type of motor? I've e-mailed crystalyte europe but getting a reply from them is like getting blood out of a stone so I guess it's up to me with a little help from the mighty sphere.

 

[neptronix]

I don't think you could find a white guy who would wind motors all day, or even a brown guy, here in the states.

The problem with these companies is that they try to get the cost way too low and sacrafice way too much. I do not understand that line of thinking. Charge a little more and make a product that doesn't have a 25% defect rate.. the vendors will come out even and may even sell more of your product..

I really want one of these but am waiting on the QC to improve.

 

[Webbo]

Anybody have any advice and instructions on removing the axil from the hs series motor. This thing is really cheap and nasty. Want to make a thicker one out of stainless and one that can handle thicker wires. Thanks

 

[RVD]

I'm still having trouble taking the cover off after unscrewing all of the screws. Is there a quick video anyone showing how you can bang at the axle with a block of wood or whatever you need to do?

i don't have a three legged puller.

 

[Nanoha]

Hey there guys, I've just got my HS35 from glowworm cycles.
Been riding it for a week with a lyen 12fet running 48v 30a, so far so good.

I've removed the seals (the 2 plastic covers + rubber seal) so if anyone has any idea on how to rain proof it please let me know :?

Ok, after reading about the quality of the winding terminations, I decided to open up mine to check it out and also replace the phase wire
while I'm at it.

While at glowworm, we tried to unscrew the screws with a manual impact driver with no success so I went home to use an electric impact driver...
Guess what? let's just say those screws are not made of steel plus they're glued with some kind of shit that stinks when you do manage to unscrew them.
I had to dremel a trench across the screw head to unscrew them, needless to say the paintwork in the cover went to hell...
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Next I slammed the other side of the axle on a piece of wood a few times and it opened up 1mm or so, enough for me to start prying with a flat head screw driver.
I started to wedge the cover open with stuff I can find around the garage ie: door hinges, computer case slot covers...
As I got more room, I switched to hex keys wedging them in a triangular shape and as I went up to a 6mm the cover slid up quite a bit.
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As the cover went up to the bit where the wire leaves the axle, I realized that it got stuck!
There was a blob of black silicone that I should have removed before trying to force the cover off, notice my frayed sheath.
I haven't checked the phases yet.


It all looked pretty neat as I sat there wondering if there was any point to this whole ordeal?
BTW is there anything I should take into account before I put the cover back?