New E bike does not turn on
- Thread starter Vleand
- Start date
Hey, we're a DIY ebike builder forum and this is not a DIY ebike.
You probably have some kind of warranty with the seller if it's brand new.. i'd suggest contacting them, otherwise we're shooting in the dark with components we're probably not familiar with / aren't documented / aren't even branded.
You probably have some kind of warranty with the seller if it's brand new.. i'd suggest contacting them, otherwise we're shooting in the dark with components we're probably not familiar with / aren't documented / aren't even branded.
Did it not work at all after buying it, or did the bike work and then fail?
I would try pulling the battery out of the bike to make sure it's fully disconnected from the controller, then put it back in and test again. It's possible that the battery BMS was somehow tripped and needs to reset.
I imagine the problem is contained to your battery.
You probably can't get a replacement battery and i'm guessing you're not an electrical engineer & can figure this problem out by tracing some undocumented circuits etc.
If you bought something uncommon from China with no warranty at a low cost then it's likely you got a junk battery in the first place. That's usually the main place they will cheap out.
I'm not an electrical engineer so i can't help you reverse engineer the problem. If i was in your shoes, i'd be buying a good quality battery from em3ev and replacing the stock junky one, which probably won't last even if you do manage to get it working - if it has weird problems like this upfront & the seller isn't willing to back it out of the gate.
You probably can't get a replacement battery and i'm guessing you're not an electrical engineer & can figure this problem out by tracing some undocumented circuits etc.
If you bought something uncommon from China with no warranty at a low cost then it's likely you got a junk battery in the first place. That's usually the main place they will cheap out.
I'm not an electrical engineer so i can't help you reverse engineer the problem. If i was in your shoes, i'd be buying a good quality battery from em3ev and replacing the stock junky one, which probably won't last even if you do manage to get it working - if it has weird problems like this upfront & the seller isn't willing to back it out of the gate.
How are you determining that the battery is fully charged? (Indicator light on the battery, charger stops charging, etc.? Do you have a pic of the battery that you can post? Also, do you have a multimeter/voltmeter?
Hi, I have similar issue with GreenCell 48V silverfish battery.
Multimeter shows 53,5V but controller doesn't turn on.
I did crosscheck with other battery / controller / cable and seems that battery is faulty.
How to check if there is an issue with BMS or with cells?
Multimeter shows 53,5V but controller doesn't turn on.
I did crosscheck with other battery / controller / cable and seems that battery is faulty.
How to check if there is an issue with BMS or with cells?
offGridDownUnder
10 kW
I read this as saying that when you plug the charger in, a light comes on - a light on the battery? Or is the light elsewhere?
If you only see a light when the charger is plugged in, and the ebike only "runs" when the charger is plugged in, I would first expect that the battery has no power, and all the power is coming from the charger. You won't be riding far with the charger plugged into the mains socket.
This suggests the battery is providing no power. The light comes from the charger power. I didn't read anything to suggest that there is any light anywhere when the charger is not plugged in - if this is true, then I expect the only power source is the charger.
Many (and I would hope all) Lithium-Ion batteries have a Battery Management System (BMS) which is an electronic board in the battery casing that watches out for some problems and tries to prevent some. One aspect is if a Li battery is discharged below about 2.5V per cell it becomes rather dangerous to attempt to charge it. A BMS will shut down a battery pack if it is discharged this far, and not allow it to charge. The cells should be replaced.
No, it's not safe to 'jump' it somehow above that voltage and then use it - you very likely have cheap cells in the first place, and they will not respond well. 'not respond well' means explosion and/or fire, and toxic smoke. Do not play with this.
I would find a 'known good' battery to try instead to determine if the ebike works otherwise. To do this, you must match the nominal voltage of the motor - this will be mostly 24V, 36V, 48V, 52V, rarely 60V or 72V. The label on your photo shows 36V - see if you can find another that is known to work and try connecting that. As well, you might try connecting the one you have to the other bike you borrow the 'known good' battery from.
You can acquire, or find someone with a voltmeter who can measure the output of the battery you have. Tell us the result from that.
docw009
10 MW
Silverfish means it has a switch with a locking knob that prevents you from inserting the battery with power on, You must be measuring the 53.5V with the battery out of the bike,
You're saying that you have another battery that works. Good! Have you checked that they have the same pin polarity on the bottom?
On these Silverfish, some of the makers switch the pin polarity. Nothing happens when you insert the battery because it's off. When you switch it on, the BMS is good enough to shut off the battery before anything overheats. This would be one reason why you measure 53.5 volts but controller will not power up.
