New Enduro Frame Is This Normal?

[mybike]

I brought a bike frame from em3ev.com. I have transferred over my front forks and other bike parts over to the new frame.

The area I am not to sure is there is a round ring that goes on the fork and then the frame goes on the ring but even putting that ring on the frame to see how it fits there is a tiny gap around the ring. So the fork and frame put together I try the breaks on while moving the bike forward the frame where the fork is moves making a clonking noise. The Picture has tape around the ring I thought that might tighten it up a little to stop the movement. I have not took the bike out yet as it is not ready.

Is this movement normal?

 

[E-geezer]

Without a close up of the headset, I can't tell if you are missing something or have it installed upside down. If it has cartridge bearings, there's not a lot of loose parts, but if it has ball and race bearings, there are and a greater chance you have parts in the incorrect location.

The other problem might be that you might have tightened the upper clamp in the fork first and then tightened the stem bolt, so the upper clamp is preventing the stem bolt from compressing the entire assembly together. Tighten the stem bolt first and then the upper clamp.

This is an area of great stress, make sure you get it right.

 

[mybike]

OK. I will take the fork off and get some more pictures and post it up here.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

this may help : Threadless Headset Service
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service

OK. I will take the fork off and get some more pictures and post it up here.

 

[mybike]

1A. The bearings are ready in the frame. The two parts in order go in I believe this is correct the frame at the top is sound dos not move.
2A. Underneath this part goes on?
3A. There is a tiny gap between frame and ring I believe this is what is making the frame move and make noise. Should there be a gape

 

[WoodlandHills]

Without a close up of the headset, I can't tell if you are missing something or have it installed upside down. If it has cartridge bearings, there's not a lot of loose parts, but if it has ball and race bearings, there are and a greater chance you have parts in the incorrect location.

The other problem might be that you might have tightened the upper clamp in the fork first and then tightened the stem bolt, so the upper clamp is preventing the stem bolt from compressing the entire assembly together. Tighten the stem bolt first and then the upper clamp.

This is an area of great stress, make sure you get it right.

It sounds like the headset is out of adjustment.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

looks like your new ebike frame came with a new headset steering bearing set as well..
so you would need to remove your old headset crown race at the bottom crown of your fork..
(use a punch etc and hammer or a "slide hammer" from bike shop..)
then install the new crown race (looks like you may have your new crown race it upside down)
you could also contact the seller for assembly instructions, etc..

1A. The bearings are ready in the frame. The two parts in order go in I believe this is correct the frame at the top is sound dos not move.
2A. Underneath this part goes on?
3A. There is a tiny gap between frame and ring I believe this is what is making the frame move and make noise. Should there be a gape

 

[mybike]

I’m popping down halfords (bike shop) now to see if they can remove the headset off the folk. I tried and failing and will try the next step turning the new head set that came with the frame other way round and will report back here.

 

[E-geezer]

I've never seen that headset, but it appears that once you pop the old headset race off the fork, the black one will go on in the orientation you have it in the last pic. It's loose now because steer tubes are tapered and flare a little bit where the race sits.

 

[mybike]

OK the old folk headset is off and I have put the new one in as in like picture 4A. There is still movement in the frame were the folk ring is. The Ring is tight in there. I have know put the ring the other way round as in the picture 4A.

Is this normal?
Also anyone with is frame can you confirm this Please?

E-geezer what you said in your last post will it tighten up it self with time and front pressure?

 

[mybike]

looks like your new ebike frame came with a new headset steering bearing set as well..
so you would need to remove your old headset crown race at the bottom crown of your fork..
(use a punch etc and hammer or a "slide hammer" from bike shop..)
then install the new crown race (looks like you may have your new crown race it upside down)
you could also contact the seller for assembly instructions, etc..

1A. The bearings are ready in the frame. The two parts in order go in I believe this is correct the frame at the top is sound dos not move.
2A. Underneath this part goes on?
3A. There is a tiny gap between frame and ring I believe this is what is making the frame move and make noise. Should there be a gape

Hi efMX Trials Electric Freeride
I have now put it in the right way but there is still movement when putting the front breaks on and moving the bike forward and back. The movement is at the bottom where the ring goes on the fork.
It did not come with any assembly instructions. I have just now contacted em3ev.com and provided this link.

If anyone else got any idea please help I don’t think this movement is normal. I am hoping to have the bike on the road this weekend.

 

[E-geezer]

Loosen the top fork clamp, the silver bar.

Loosen the stem clamp bolts, the ones on the side.

Tighten the stem bolt, the one through the top cap so the entire headset squeezes together, the rocking should go away, yet the fork still turns freely. If it is stiff to turn, back off a bit.

Retighten the stem bolts and then the fork clamp.

If there is still play once you tighten the stem bolt, you are either missing a part or it's in an incorrect location.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

once installed then you need to adjust the headset so there is no bearing play movement, yet the fork still turns smoothly without binding.. headset adjustment is described in the link i posted earlier..

Threadless Headset Service : http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service

basically you need to loosen your fork crown bolts that attach to the fork legs, loosen your handlebar stem bolts that attach to the fork steerer tube, install your stem top cap and headset compression bolt into the star nut inserted into your fork steerer tube.. tighten the headset compression bolt as needed to remove any headset bearing play, do not over-tighten to the point of steering binding.. once the headset bearing are at proper compression then re-tighten crown and stem bolts, check alignment and adjustment, go ride.. apply the front brake and rock the bike for / aft to make sure its adjusted right..

1A. The bearings are ready in the frame. The two parts in order go in I believe this is correct the frame at the top is sound dos not move.
2A. Underneath this part goes on?
3A. There is a tiny gap between frame and ring I believe this is what is making the frame move and make noise. Should there be a gape

Hi efMX Trials Electric Freeride
I have now put it in the right way but there is still movement when putting the front breaks on and moving the bike forward and back. The movement is at the bottom where the ring goes on the fork.
It did not come with any assembly instructions. I have just now contacted em3ev.com and provided this link.

If anyone else got any idea please help I don’t think this movement is normal. I am hoping to have the bike on the road this weekend.[/quote]

 

[mybike]

Could it be the compression bolt as I am getting nothing still the same when screwing the compression bolt (Picture with the alien key)?

 

[Chalo]

You need about 1/8" or 3mm of space below the top of the stem to the top of the steer tube. Add spacers until you have that approximately 1/8" available. Without that gap, you can't establish preload of the bearings.

The idea is to push down on the stack of spacers by pulling up on the steer tube. Your steer tube protrudes past the top of the stem, so you can't push on the stem and spacers.

It seems like you're kind of over your head. You could always have a mechanic do the job right for you....

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

you need to add more spacers under the stem etc until the steerer tube length sits a few mm below the stem..
this space will be your headset compression space.. i like to use some spacer on top of the stem as well..
example of spacers and headset compression space :

Could it be the compression bolt as I am getting nothing still the same when screwing the compression bolt (Picture with the alien key)?

 

[E-geezer]

You need about 1/8" or 3mm of space below the top of the stem to the top of the steer tube. Add spacers until you have that approximately 1/8" available. Without that gap, you can't establish preload of the bearings.

The idea is to push down on the stack of spacers by pulling up on the steer tube. Your steer tube protrudes past the top of the stem, so you can't push on the stem and spacers.

It seems like you're kind of over your head. You could always have a mechanic do the job right for you....

This

The top cap pushes down on the stem, it shouldn't touch the fork steerer at all. You either need to cut down the steer tube, or add another spacer or two. Watch this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LTCthtmjD0

 

[Esting]

you need the fill the gape with spaces
or cut down the steer tube by the same amount +3mm and push down the start nut in to the steer tube

 

[mybike]

Thank you all so far who posting here for all your time trying to help me. I don’t have any spacers I will get them tomorrow. The links and images provided are very clear and your explaining I now I understand. I will avoid cutting down the steer tube in case and do the spacers first.

I will report back tomorrow after buying fitting the spacers in the morning.

 

[mybike]

Update…

Iv added the spacers. I tightened the top more then just snug. Lifting the wheel from the ground and turning left and right there no hesitation or rubbing. Using the front breaks to see movement of the frame and movement is gone….. Thank you all…

The new ring came with the frame is on the fork and is sitting flush on the folk but not the other side on the frame as you can see in the 3rd picture below, hopefully this is normal. :?

 

[WoodlandHills]

After you ride for a few miles, you will be going over every bolt and adjuster on the bike to retorque and tune. By then the crown race (the black ring on the fork) will have had enough impact from the road to seat fully and you can take any new slack out of the headset at that time. Once you get everything retightened it will stay that way for a long time u til parts begin to wear and you have to retune.

 

[brickwall]

I just did this exact thing myself and it wasn't entirely clear how to fit all the washers. But once I figured it out, I felt stupid.